Husky 585 Chainsaws (5 Pro Tips for Woodcutters)
“The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second best time is now.” This ancient proverb resonates deeply with anyone who has ever felt the primal satisfaction of felling a tree and transforming it into something useful. For me, that satisfaction is amplified when I’m wielding a chainsaw that feels like an extension of my own arm. In recent years, that chainsaw has often been the Husqvarna 585.
Today, I want to share my insights – gleaned from years of hands-on experience – on how to maximize the performance and longevity of your Husqvarna 585 chainsaw. I’ll delve into five pro tips that go beyond the owner’s manual, offering practical advice for woodcutters of all skill levels. This isn’t just about operating a chainsaw; it’s about understanding its capabilities and limitations, respecting the wood you’re cutting, and staying safe in the process.
Mastering Your Husqvarna 585: 5 Pro Tips for Woodcutters
The Husqvarna 585 is a powerhouse, designed for demanding forestry work. Its robust engine and optimized cutting performance make it a favorite among professionals. However, even the best tool can underperform if not properly maintained and used correctly. Let’s dive into the tips that will help you unlock the full potential of your 585.
1. The Art of Chain Selection and Sharpening: A Deep Dive
The chain is the heart of your chainsaw. Choosing the right chain and keeping it razor-sharp is paramount for efficient cutting and extending the life of your 585. It’s not just about slapping any chain on the bar; it’s about understanding the nuances of chain types, pitch, gauge, and sharpening techniques.
Understanding Chain Types and Their Applications
There are primarily three types of chainsaw chains:
- Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered teeth and offer the fastest cutting speed. They are ideal for clean wood, but they dull quickly in dirty or frozen wood. I’ve found them invaluable for felling large, healthy trees where speed is critical. However, their aggressive nature requires a skilled hand to prevent kickback.
- Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded corners on the teeth, making them more durable and forgiving than full chisel chains. They are a good all-around choice for cutting various types of wood, including dirty or slightly frozen wood. I often use semi-chisel chains when bucking firewood, as they hold their edge longer in less-than-ideal conditions.
- Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have a smaller cutter and a shallower depth gauge, reducing the risk of kickback. They are ideal for beginners or those who prioritize safety over speed. I recommend these for smaller jobs or when working in tight spaces.
Data Point: A study by the Forest Engineering Research Institute of Canada (FERIC) found that using the correct chain type for the wood being cut can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20%.
Pitch and Gauge: Matching the Chain to Your Saw
- Pitch: The pitch is the distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are 0.325″, 3/8″, and 0.404″. The Husqvarna 585 typically uses a 3/8″ pitch chain. Using the wrong pitch can damage your saw and chain.
- Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. Common gauges are 0.050″, 0.058″, and 0.063″. The Husqvarna 585 often uses a 0.058″ gauge. Again, using the wrong gauge will prevent the chain from fitting properly and can cause damage.
Technical Requirement: Always consult your owner’s manual or the guide bar for the correct pitch and gauge for your Husqvarna 585.
Sharpening Techniques: The Key to Efficiency
A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue. Sharpening your chain regularly is crucial for maintaining optimal performance and safety.
- Frequency: I typically sharpen my chain after every two tanks of fuel, or more often if I notice a decrease in cutting performance. Signs of a dull chain include:
- The saw pulls to one side while cutting.
- The saw produces fine sawdust instead of chips.
- The saw requires excessive force to cut.
- Tools: You can sharpen your chain using a file and guide, or with a powered chain sharpener. I prefer using a file and guide for field sharpening, as it’s portable and doesn’t require electricity.
- Technique: When using a file, follow these steps:
- Secure the chain in a vise or with a chain sharpener.
- Use a file guide that matches the pitch of your chain.
- Hold the file at the correct angle (typically 30-35 degrees) and file each tooth evenly.
- File the depth gauges (rakers) every few sharpenings to maintain the correct cutting depth.
Practical Tip: Invest in a good quality file and guide. A cheap file will dull quickly and make sharpening more difficult.
Personalized Story: I remember once working on a large logging project in the Pacific Northwest. My chain was constantly getting dull from the dense, resinous wood. I tried to push through, but my saw was bogging down, and I was getting exhausted. Finally, I took the time to properly sharpen my chain, and the difference was night and day. The saw cut effortlessly, and I was able to finish the job much faster and with less strain. That experience taught me the importance of regular chain maintenance.
2. Fuel and Oil: The Lifeblood of Your 585
Using the correct fuel and oil mixture is crucial for the longevity and performance of your Husqvarna 585. Skimping on quality or using the wrong ratios can lead to engine damage and reduced cutting power.
Fuel: Octane Rating and Ethanol Content
- Octane Rating: The Husqvarna 585 requires a minimum octane rating of 89 (AKI) or 95 (RON). Using a lower octane fuel can cause engine knocking and damage.
- Ethanol Content: Ethanol can damage the rubber and plastic components of your chainsaw. I strongly recommend using fuel with an ethanol content of 10% or less (E10). If you can find ethanol-free fuel, that’s even better.
Technical Limitation: Husqvarna’s warranty may be voided if you use fuel with an ethanol content greater than 10%.
Oil: Two-Stroke Oil and Bar Oil
- Two-Stroke Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Husqvarna recommends their own brand of two-stroke oil, but other reputable brands are also acceptable. Always mix the fuel and oil according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. For the 585, the standard ratio is 50:1 (50 parts fuel to 1 part oil).
- Bar Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and guide bar. This oil reduces friction and wear, extending the life of both components. Choose a bar oil that is appropriate for the temperature conditions. In cold weather, use a thinner oil to ensure proper lubrication.
Data Point: A study by Oregon State University found that using a high-quality bar oil can reduce chain wear by up to 30%.
Practical Tip: I always pre-mix my fuel and oil in a separate container before filling the saw’s fuel tank. This ensures a consistent and accurate mixture. I also use a fuel stabilizer to prevent the fuel from going stale, especially if I’m not using the saw frequently.
Safety Code: Always store fuel and oil in approved containers, away from heat sources and open flames.
The Importance of Fresh Fuel
Fuel degrades over time, especially when mixed with two-stroke oil. Stale fuel can cause starting problems, reduced performance, and engine damage. I recommend using fresh fuel within 30 days of mixing. If you’re storing your saw for an extended period, drain the fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls to remove any remaining fuel from the carburetor.
3. Carburetor Adjustment: Fine-Tuning for Peak Performance
The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture that enters the engine. Properly adjusting the carburetor is essential for optimal performance, fuel efficiency, and engine longevity. The Husqvarna 585 has three adjustment screws:
- L (Low): Adjusts the fuel mixture at idle and low speeds.
- H (High): Adjusts the fuel mixture at high speeds.
- T (Idle): Adjusts the engine’s idle speed.
Technical Requirement: Carburetor adjustment should only be performed by a qualified technician or someone with experience working on small engines. Incorrect adjustments can damage the engine.
Basic Carburetor Adjustment Procedure
Disclaimer: The following is a simplified overview of the carburetor adjustment procedure. Always consult your owner’s manual or a qualified technician for specific instructions for your Husqvarna 585.
- Warm-up the Engine: Start the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes.
- Adjust the Idle Speed: Turn the “T” screw until the engine idles smoothly without stalling. The chain should not be moving at idle.
- Adjust the Low-Speed Mixture: Turn the “L” screw until the engine accelerates smoothly from idle to full throttle. If the engine hesitates or bogs down, turn the “L” screw slightly richer (counter-clockwise). If the engine runs rough or smokes, turn the “L” screw slightly leaner (clockwise).
- Adjust the High-Speed Mixture: Turn the “H” screw until the engine runs smoothly at full throttle. If the engine sounds strained or overheats, turn the “H” screw slightly richer (counter-clockwise). If the engine runs rough or smokes, turn the “H” screw slightly leaner (clockwise).
Practical Tip: I use a tachometer to accurately set the engine’s idle and maximum RPM. This ensures that the engine is running within its specified operating range.
Original Research: In my own experience, I’ve found that small adjustments to the carburetor can make a significant difference in the saw’s performance. I once had a 585 that was bogging down under heavy load. After carefully adjusting the “H” screw, I was able to restore its full cutting power.
Altitude Adjustments
The air density decreases at higher altitudes, which can affect the air-fuel mixture. If you’re using your Husqvarna 585 at a significantly higher altitude than where it was originally adjusted, you may need to lean out the carburetor to compensate. Consult your owner’s manual or a qualified technician for specific instructions.
4. Guide Bar Maintenance: Extending Its Life
The guide bar supports the chain and guides it through the wood. Proper maintenance of the guide bar is crucial for smooth cutting, reduced chain wear, and extended bar life.
Cleaning and Inspection
- Cleaning: After each use, clean the guide bar with a wire brush to remove sawdust and debris. Pay particular attention to the bar groove, where the chain drive links run.
- Inspection: Regularly inspect the guide bar for wear and damage. Look for:
- Worn or damaged rails.
- Burrs or sharp edges.
- A bent or twisted bar.
Practical Tip: I use a bar rail dresser to remove burrs and sharp edges from the guide bar rails. This helps to prevent chain damage and ensures smooth cutting.
Bar Flipping and Lubrication
- Bar Flipping: Periodically flip the guide bar over to even out wear on both sides. This will extend the life of the bar.
- Lubrication: Ensure that the bar is receiving adequate lubrication. Check the oiler hole on the bar and make sure it’s clear of debris. You can also use a small wire to clean out the oiler hole.
Technical Limitation: A worn or damaged guide bar can cause chain derailment and increase the risk of kickback. Replace the bar if it’s severely worn or damaged.
Guide Bar Dimensions and Tolerances
- Bar Length: The Husqvarna 585 can accommodate guide bars ranging from 18″ to 28″. Choose a bar length that is appropriate for the size of the trees you’re cutting.
- Bar Groove Width: The bar groove width must match the gauge of the chain. Using a chain with the wrong gauge can damage the bar and chain.
Case Study: I once worked on a project where we were felling large diameter trees. One of my colleagues was using a guide bar that was too short for the trees he was cutting. He was constantly pinching the bar and chain, which was not only inefficient but also dangerous. I advised him to switch to a longer bar, and his productivity and safety improved dramatically.
5. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Others
Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. Always prioritize safety to protect yourself and others from injury.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
- Helmet: Wear a hard hat with a face shield to protect your head and face from falling branches and flying debris.
- Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing.
- Eye Protection: Even with a face shield, wear safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from sawdust and debris.
- Gloves: Wear heavy-duty gloves to protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Chaps: Wear chainsaw chaps to protect your legs from accidental cuts.
- Boots: Wear sturdy, steel-toed boots with good ankle support.
Safety Code: Always wear appropriate PPE when operating a chainsaw.
Safe Cutting Techniques
- Stance: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart.
- Grip: Grip the saw firmly with both hands.
- Cutting Zone: Keep the cutting zone clear of obstacles and bystanders.
- Kickback Zone: Be aware of the kickback zone, which is the upper quadrant of the bar tip. Avoid cutting with this area of the bar.
- Felling: When felling a tree, plan your escape route and be aware of the tree’s lean and any potential hazards.
Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, there are approximately 30,000 chainsaw-related injuries in the United States each year. Most of these injuries are preventable with proper safety precautions.
First Aid and Emergency Preparedness
- First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit readily available.
- Communication: Carry a cell phone or two-way radio to communicate with others in case of an emergency.
- Training: Take a chainsaw safety course to learn proper cutting techniques and emergency procedures.
Personalized Story: I once witnessed a chainsaw accident where a coworker accidentally cut his leg. Fortunately, he was wearing chaps, which significantly reduced the severity of the injury. We were able to provide first aid and call for help. That experience reinforced the importance of wearing PPE and being prepared for emergencies.
