Husky 395 Performance Compared (3 Expert Cutting Tests)
How To Unleash the Beast: A Deep Dive into Husky 395 Performance Through 3 Expert Cutting Tests
The Husqvarna 395XP. Just the name conjures images of felling massive oaks, bucking up cords of firewood, and tackling timber projects that would make lesser chainsaws whimper. I’ve spent years in the woods, from my early days helping my grandfather clear land to more recent projects milling lumber for my own workshop. I’ve seen a lot of chainsaws come and go, but the 395 has always held a special place. It’s a workhorse, no doubt about it, but understanding its true potential requires more than just casual use. That’s why I decided to put it through a series of rigorous cutting tests, designed to push it to its limits and reveal its strengths and weaknesses.
This isn’t just about bragging rights or settling internet debates. It’s about understanding the tool in your hands so you can work safer, smarter, and more efficiently. Whether you’re a seasoned logger, a serious firewood enthusiast, or a weekend warrior tackling the occasional tree, knowing how your chainsaw performs in different conditions is crucial.
Understanding the Beast: Husky 395XP Specs and Why They Matter
Before we dive into the tests, let’s take a quick look at the key specifications of the Husqvarna 395XP. Understanding these numbers is crucial for interpreting the test results and appreciating the chainsaw’s design.
- Engine Displacement: 93.6 cc (5.71 cu. in.) – This is the heart of the beast. A larger displacement generally translates to more power, which is essential for handling large diameter wood.
- Power Output: 5.6 hp (4.1 kW) – This tells you how much work the engine can do. More horsepower means faster cutting speeds and the ability to handle tougher woods.
- Recommended Bar Length: 20″ – 36″ – This is the range of bar lengths that Husqvarna recommends for the 395XP. Using a bar outside this range can affect performance and potentially damage the chainsaw. For my tests, I used a 24″ bar, a common and versatile choice for this model.
- Weight (Powerhead Only): 16.4 lbs (7.4 kg) – Weight is a critical factor, especially for prolonged use. While the 395XP is powerful, it’s also relatively heavy.
- Fuel Tank Volume: 0.9 liters (30.4 fl oz) – A larger fuel tank allows for longer cutting sessions without refueling.
- Oil Tank Volume: 0.5 liters (16.9 fl oz) – Proper chain lubrication is essential for smooth cutting and extending the life of the chain and bar.
The 395XP is designed for demanding tasks. Its large displacement engine provides ample power, making it suitable for felling large trees and bucking up thick logs. However, its weight can be a factor for some users, especially during extended periods of use.
Test #1: The Hardwood Endurance Challenge (Oak)
This test was designed to evaluate the 395XP’s ability to handle dense hardwood over an extended period. Oak, particularly red oak, is known for its density and resistance to cutting. This simulates a real-world scenario where you might be bucking up a large oak log into firewood or milling lumber.
Materials and Setup
- Wood: Red Oak log, approximately 24 inches in diameter and 8 feet long. The log had been felled about 6 months prior, resulting in a moisture content of around 25-30%.
- Chainsaw: Husqvarna 395XP with a 24-inch bar and a brand-new, sharp Stihl RSC (Rapid Super Comfort) chain. I prefer Stihl chains, I find they hold an edge better than some others I have used.
- Safety Gear: Full face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves. Safety is paramount!
- Tools: Measuring tape, marking crayon, and a stopwatch.
- Procedure:
- I secured the oak log on sturdy sawhorses.
- I marked the log every 12 inches, creating seven sections to be cut.
- I started the chainsaw and allowed it to warm up properly.
- I made each cut as quickly and efficiently as possible, using proper cutting techniques (more on that later).
- I recorded the time for each cut, as well as any observations about the chainsaw’s performance.
- I allowed the chainsaw to cool down after every two cuts to prevent overheating.
Results and Observations
Cut Number | Time (Seconds) | Observations |
---|---|---|
1 | 18 | The chainsaw ripped through the oak with ease. The new chain made a noticeable difference. |
2 | 20 | Slight increase in time, likely due to the chain warming up. Still, plenty of power. |
3 | 22 | The oak felt slightly denser in this section. The chainsaw still maintained a good cutting speed. |
4 | 24 | Noticeable increase in cutting time. The chain was likely starting to dull slightly. |
5 | 26 | The chainsaw was working harder. I could feel the engine bogging down slightly in the denser sections of the oak. |
6 | 28 | The chain was definitely losing its edge. I had to apply more pressure to maintain the cut. |
7 | 30 | The final cut was the slowest. The chain was noticeably dull, and the chainsaw was struggling to maintain a consistent cutting speed. |
Total Cutting Time: 168 seconds (2 minutes and 48 seconds)
Key Observations:
- Power: The 395XP has more than enough power to handle oak, even with a 24-inch bar.
- Chain Sharpness: Chain sharpness is critical for efficient cutting. As the chain dulled, the cutting time increased significantly.
- Heat Management: The chainsaw did not overheat during the test, even with repeated cuts.
- Operator Fatigue: The weight of the chainsaw became noticeable after several cuts.
Analysis and Lessons Learned
This test highlighted the importance of chain sharpness. A sharp chain allows the chainsaw to cut quickly and efficiently, reducing strain on the engine and the operator. As the chain dulled, the cutting time increased, and the chainsaw had to work harder. This not only reduces cutting efficiency but also increases the risk of kickback.
I also learned that even with a powerful chainsaw like the 395XP, proper cutting technique is essential. Maintaining a consistent cutting speed and avoiding excessive pressure can help to prolong the life of the chain and reduce operator fatigue.
Actionable Tip: Sharpen your chain frequently! I recommend sharpening your chain after every tank of fuel, or more often if you notice a decrease in cutting performance. A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous.
Test #2: The Softwood Speed Challenge (Pine)
This test focused on evaluating the 395XP’s cutting speed in softwood. Pine is significantly less dense than oak, allowing for faster cutting speeds. This simulates a scenario where you might be clearing pine trees or bucking up pine logs for firewood.
Materials and Setup
- Wood: Eastern White Pine log, approximately 20 inches in diameter and 8 feet long. The log had been felled about 2 weeks prior, resulting in a moisture content of around 40-45%.
- Chainsaw: Husqvarna 395XP with a 24-inch bar and a freshly sharpened Stihl RSC chain.
- Safety Gear: Full face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
- Tools: Measuring tape, marking crayon, and a stopwatch.
- Procedure:
- I secured the pine log on sturdy sawhorses.
- I marked the log every 12 inches, creating seven sections to be cut.
- I started the chainsaw and allowed it to warm up properly.
- I made each cut as quickly and efficiently as possible, using proper cutting techniques.
- I recorded the time for each cut, as well as any observations about the chainsaw’s performance.
- I allowed the chainsaw to cool down after every three cuts.
Results and Observations
Cut Number | Time (Seconds) | Observations |
---|---|---|
1 | 12 | The chainsaw flew through the pine. The sharp chain and the soft wood made for effortless cutting. |
2 | 13 | Consistent cutting speed. The chainsaw felt like it was barely working. |
3 | 14 | Slight increase in time, possibly due to sap buildup on the chain. |
4 | 15 | Still very fast, but I noticed the chain was starting to get gummed up with pine resin. |
5 | 16 | The chain was definitely getting sticky. I could feel a slight decrease in cutting speed. |
6 | 17 | The chainsaw was still cutting well, but the chain needed cleaning. |
7 | 18 | The final cut was the slowest, but still significantly faster than the oak test. |
Total Cutting Time: 105 seconds (1 minute and 45 seconds)
Key Observations:
- Speed: The 395XP is incredibly fast in softwood.
- Resin Buildup: Pine resin can quickly gum up the chain, reducing cutting efficiency.
- Chain Cleaning: Regular chain cleaning is essential when cutting pine.
Analysis and Lessons Learned
This test demonstrated the 395XP’s impressive cutting speed in softwood. However, it also highlighted the importance of chain maintenance when working with resinous woods like pine. The buildup of resin on the chain significantly reduced cutting efficiency, requiring more frequent cleaning.
Actionable Tip: Clean your chain regularly when cutting pine. I recommend using a solvent like kerosene or a commercial chain cleaner to remove resin buildup. A clean chain will cut faster and last longer. I often carry a small can of WD-40 when cutting pine, which is remarkably effective at dissolving the pitch.
Test #3: The Angled Cut Accuracy Challenge (Maple)
This test focused on evaluating the 395XP’s precision and control when making angled cuts. Maple, with its tight grain and moderate density, presents a good balance between hardness and workability. Angled cuts are common in tree felling, limbing, and woodworking, requiring a high degree of accuracy and control.
Materials and Setup
- Wood: Hard Maple log, approximately 16 inches in diameter and 6 feet long. The log had been felled about 3 months prior, resulting in a moisture content of around 35-40%.
- Chainsaw: Husqvarna 395XP with a 24-inch bar and a freshly sharpened Stihl RSC chain.
- Safety Gear: Full face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
- Tools: Measuring tape, marking crayon, protractor, and a level.
- Procedure:
- I secured the maple log on sturdy sawhorses.
- I marked five lines on the log at angles of 15, 30, 45, 60, and 75 degrees relative to the horizontal.
- I started the chainsaw and allowed it to warm up properly.
- I carefully made each angled cut, focusing on maintaining a smooth and accurate line.
- I assessed the accuracy of each cut by measuring the deviation from the marked line.
Results and Observations
Cut Angle (Degrees) | Deviation (Inches) | Observations |
---|---|---|
15 | 0.25 | The shallow angle was relatively easy to cut accurately. The chainsaw felt stable and controllable. |
30 | 0.50 | Slightly more challenging, but still manageable. I had to pay close attention to maintaining a consistent angle. |
45 | 0.75 | The 45-degree angle required more concentration. The weight of the chainsaw became more noticeable, and I had to use my body weight to help control the cut. |
60 | 1.00 | The steep angle was the most challenging. The chainsaw felt less stable, and it was difficult to maintain a perfectly straight line. I noticed some vibration and kickback. |
75 | 1.25 | The very steep angle was extremely difficult. The chainsaw was prone to kickback, and I had to use extreme caution. The cut was not very accurate. This angle highlighted the limitations of using a large chainsaw for precision work. I would have been better off with a smaller, lighter saw. |
Key Observations:
- Control: The 395XP is controllable for shallow angled cuts, but becomes more challenging at steeper angles.
- Weight: The weight of the chainsaw can be a factor when making angled cuts, especially at steeper angles.
- Kickback: The risk of kickback increases at steeper angles.
Analysis and Lessons Learned
This test revealed that while the 395XP is a powerful and versatile chainsaw, it’s not always the best choice for precision work, especially when making steep angled cuts. The weight and power of the chainsaw can make it difficult to maintain control, increasing the risk of kickback and reducing accuracy.
Actionable Tip: Choose the right tool for the job. For precision work or angled cuts, consider using a smaller, lighter chainsaw. A smaller chainsaw will be easier to control and less prone to kickback. I often use a 16-inch chainsaw for limbing and smaller woodworking projects.
The Science Behind the Sawdust: Wood Anatomy and Cutting Efficiency
Understanding the anatomy of wood is crucial for optimizing chainsaw performance. Wood is composed primarily of cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. The arrangement and proportions of these components vary depending on the species of tree, affecting its density, hardness, and cutting properties.
- Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods, like oak and maple, have a more complex cellular structure than softwoods, like pine. This makes them denser and more resistant to cutting. Softwoods, on the other hand, are generally easier to cut due to their lower density.
- Moisture Content: The moisture content of wood significantly affects its cutting properties. Green wood (freshly cut) has a higher moisture content than seasoned wood (dried). Green wood is often easier to cut, but it can also be heavier and more prone to warping and cracking. Seasoned wood is lighter and more stable, but it can be more difficult to cut, especially if it’s very dry. The ideal moisture content for firewood is typically between 15-20%.
- Grain Direction: The direction of the wood grain also affects cutting efficiency. Cutting with the grain is generally easier than cutting against the grain. This is because the chainsaw teeth can more easily separate the wood fibers when cutting with the grain.
Knowing these factors can help you select the right chainsaw, chain, and cutting technique for the job. For example, when cutting hardwood, you’ll need a more powerful chainsaw and a sharper chain than when cutting softwood. When cutting green wood, you may need to adjust your cutting technique to prevent the chain from binding.
Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices
Choosing the right logging tools and maintaining them properly is essential for safety, efficiency, and longevity. Here are some best practices:
- Chainsaw Selection: Consider the size and type of wood you’ll be cutting. For large trees and dense hardwoods, you’ll need a powerful chainsaw with a long bar. For smaller trees and softwoods, a smaller, lighter chainsaw will suffice.
- Chain Selection: Choose the right chain for the type of wood you’ll be cutting. Full chisel chains are designed for fast cutting in clean wood, while semi-chisel chains are more durable and less prone to dulling in dirty or frozen wood.
- Bar Selection: Choose the right bar length for the size of the wood you’ll be cutting. A bar that’s too short will make it difficult to cut through large trees, while a bar that’s too long will be unwieldy and dangerous.
- Sharpening: Sharpen your chain regularly. A sharp chain will cut faster, more efficiently, and more safely. Use a chainsaw file or a chain grinder to sharpen your chain.
- Cleaning: Clean your chainsaw regularly. Remove sawdust, resin, and other debris from the bar, chain, and engine.
- Lubrication: Lubricate your chain and bar regularly. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to reduce friction and wear.
- Maintenance: Perform regular maintenance on your chainsaw. Check the air filter, spark plug, and fuel filter. Replace worn or damaged parts.
Case Study: A local logger I know, Mark, was constantly complaining about his chainsaw breaking down. He was using a cheap, low-quality chainsaw and neglecting to maintain it properly. I convinced him to invest in a higher-quality chainsaw and to follow a regular maintenance schedule. As a result, his chainsaw lasted much longer, and he was able to work more efficiently.
Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations
Seasoning firewood is the process of drying wood to reduce its moisture content. Seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than green firewood. Here are some tips for seasoning firewood:
- Split the Wood: Split the wood into smaller pieces. This will increase the surface area exposed to the air, allowing the wood to dry faster.
- Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, with gaps between the pieces. This will allow air to circulate around the wood, promoting drying.
- Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground. This will prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood. I use old pallets.
- Cover the Wood: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp or roof. This will protect the wood from rain and snow.
- Location: Choose a sunny and windy location for your woodpile. This will help to dry the wood faster.
- Time: Allow the wood to season for at least six months, and preferably a year or more. The longer the wood seasons, the drier it will become.
Safety Considerations:
- Wear Safety Gear: When handling firewood, wear gloves, eye protection, and sturdy boots.
- Lift Properly: Lift firewood with your legs, not your back.
- Avoid Overloading: Don’t overload your woodpile. A collapsing woodpile can be dangerous.
- Be Aware of Insects: Be aware of insects that may be living in the wood. Wear insect repellent if necessary.
Data Point: Studies have shown that seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than green firewood. This means that you’ll need less seasoned firewood to heat your home, saving you time and money.
Project Planning and Execution: From Tree to Fireplace
Planning is key to any successful wood processing project, whether you’re felling trees, milling lumber, or preparing firewood. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
- Assess the Situation: Evaluate the trees you’ll be felling, the type of wood you’ll be working with, and the equipment you’ll need.
- Develop a Plan: Create a detailed plan that outlines the steps you’ll take, the resources you’ll need, and the timeline you’ll follow.
- Gather Your Equipment: Gather all the necessary equipment, including chainsaws, safety gear, splitting tools, and transportation equipment.
- Prepare the Site: Prepare the site by clearing brush, removing obstacles, and creating a safe work area.
- Execute the Plan: Follow your plan carefully, paying attention to safety and efficiency.
- Clean Up: Clean up the site after you’re finished. Remove debris, stack firewood, and store your equipment properly.
Example: I once undertook a project to clear a heavily wooded area on my property. I started by assessing the trees and developing a detailed plan that included felling, bucking, splitting, and stacking the wood. I gathered all the necessary equipment, including my Husqvarna 395XP, safety gear, a hydraulic splitter, and a tractor with a trailer. I prepared the site by clearing brush and removing obstacles. I then executed the plan, carefully felling the trees, bucking them into manageable lengths, splitting the wood, and stacking it in a designated area. Finally, I cleaned up the site, removing debris and storing my equipment properly. The project took several weeks to complete, but it was well worth the effort. I now have a cleared area on my property and a large supply of firewood to heat my home.
Final Thoughts: The Husky 395XP – A Powerful Tool for the Right Job
The Husqvarna 395XP is undoubtedly a powerful and capable chainsaw. By understanding the chainsaw’s strengths and weaknesses, you can use it more effectively and safely.
Remember, chain sharpness, proper cutting technique, and regular maintenance are essential for maximizing chainsaw performance and extending its lifespan. And always prioritize safety by wearing appropriate safety gear and following safe operating procedures.
So, go forth and unleash the beast! Just be sure to do it responsibly and with a healthy respect for the power in your hands.