How To Rewind A Pull Start Spring (Pro Tips For Vintage Chainsaws)

Have you ever noticed how much our furry friends love a crackling fire? My old golden retriever, Buster, used to practically melt into the rug in front of the hearth every winter. And that’s just one reason why I’ve spent decades perfecting my skills in all things wood – from felling trees to splitting firewood. But let’s face it, even the best chainsaw can be a frustrating paperweight if the pull start mechanism fails. And that’s where this guide comes in.

“How to Rewind a Pull Start Spring (Pro Tips for Vintage Chainsaws)” – the user intent is clear: someone is struggling with a pull start spring on a chainsaw, likely an older model, and needs detailed, practical guidance to fix it. They’re looking for pro-level tips, suggesting they’ve either tried this before or are comfortable tackling mechanical repairs. This guide will delve deep into the mechanics of rewinding a pull start spring, focusing on vintage chainsaws but also applicable to many modern models.

Understanding the Pull Start Mechanism: A Foundation for Success

Before diving into the rewinding process, it’s crucial to understand how a chainsaw’s pull start works. This understanding will not only make the repair easier but also help in diagnosing future issues.

Key Components of a Pull Start

Rope: The cord you pull to start the engine.
Handle: The grip at the end of the rope.
Pulley (or Starter Wheel): The grooved wheel the rope wraps around.
Recoil Spring (or Pull Start Spring): The spiral spring that rewinds the rope after you pull it. This is the star of our show.
Pawls (or Dogs): Small pivoting levers that engage with the engine’s crankshaft when the pulley is pulled.
Housing: The plastic or metal case that holds all the components together.

How it Works: A Simplified Explanation

When you pull the rope, it turns the pulley. The pawls on the pulley engage with the engine’s crankshaft, causing it to rotate. This rotation starts the combustion process in the engine. As you release the rope, the recoil spring unwinds, pulling the rope back onto the pulley.

Why Springs Fail: Common Culprits

Fatigue: Over time, the constant tension and release cycles weaken the spring.
Corrosion: Moisture and debris can cause the spring to rust, making it brittle.
Over-Pulling: Jerking the rope too hard can stretch or break the spring.
Improper Storage: Leaving the chainsaw exposed to the elements can accelerate corrosion.

Safety First: Preparing for the Repair

Working on any mechanical device, especially one involving a potentially wound-up spring, requires careful preparation and adherence to safety precautions.

Essential Safety Gear

Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
Work Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands from sharp edges.
Ear Protection: The recoil spring can release with a loud snap.
Well-Ventilated Area: Work in a space with good airflow to avoid inhaling any fumes.

Tools You’ll Need

Screwdrivers: A variety of sizes, both flathead and Phillips head.
Pliers: Needle-nose and standard pliers for manipulating small parts.
Snap Ring Pliers (Optional but Recommended): For removing snap rings that may be holding the pulley in place.
Penetrating Oil: To loosen any rusted or stuck parts. WD-40 or a dedicated penetrating oil works well.
Grease: To lubricate the spring and other moving parts during reassembly.
Clean Rags: For wiping away dirt and grease.
Digital Camera or Smartphone: Take photos of each step to help you remember how everything goes back together. This is incredibly useful, especially if you’re working on a complex mechanism.
Vise (Optional): To hold the recoil housing securely.
Spring Hook Tool (Optional): If you are working on a complicated spring.

Preparing Your Workspace

Clean and Organize: Clear your workspace of any clutter. This will help you stay focused and avoid losing small parts.
Good Lighting: Ensure you have adequate lighting to see all the components clearly.
Stable Surface: Work on a stable surface, such as a workbench, to prevent the recoil assembly from moving around.

Step-by-Step Guide to Rewinding the Pull Start Spring

Now, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty of rewinding that pesky spring. This process can vary slightly depending on the chainsaw model, but the general principles remain the same. I’ll use my experience with several vintage saws, including a trusty old McCulloch and a couple of Stihl models, to illustrate the process.

Step 1: Removing the Recoil Assembly

Locate the Recoil Housing: This is usually a plastic or metal cover on the side of the engine, near the pull start handle.
Remove the Cover: Use a screwdriver to remove the screws or bolts holding the recoil housing in place. Pay attention to the length and position of each screw, as they may be different sizes. Use your camera to document this.
Detach the Rope from the Handle: In most cases, you can simply untie the knot at the end of the rope inside the handle. Sometimes, there’s a small clip or retainer that needs to be removed first.
Carefully Remove the Recoil Assembly: Once the cover is off and the rope is detached, you should be able to lift the entire recoil assembly away from the engine. Be gentle, as the spring may be under tension.

Step 2: Disassembling the Recoil Assembly

This is where things can get a bit tricky, so proceed with caution.

Identify the Pulley Retainer: The pulley is usually held in place by a snap ring, a retaining clip, or a series of screws.
Remove the Pulley Retainer: Use snap ring pliers to carefully remove the snap ring if present. If there are screws, remove them with a screwdriver. If it has a retaining clip, carefully pry it loose.
Lift Out the Pulley: Once the retainer is removed, you should be able to lift the pulley out of the housing. Note the orientation of the pulley and the pawls (if any) before removing it.
Inspect the Spring: With the pulley removed, you’ll have access to the recoil spring. Carefully examine the spring for any signs of damage, such as rust, cracks, or breaks. If the spring is broken, you’ll need to replace it.
Remove the Spring (If Necessary): The spring is usually held in place by a hook or a slot in the housing. Use a screwdriver or pliers to carefully unhook the spring. Be extremely cautious when removing the spring, as it can release with considerable force. I once had a spring shoot across my garage, narrowly missing my head! Secure the spring with a vise if possible, or wrap it in a thick cloth to contain it if it suddenly unwinds.

Step 3: Rewinding the Spring

This is the heart of the operation. There are two main scenarios: rewinding an intact spring and installing a new spring.

Scenario 1: Rewinding an Intact Spring

Clean the Spring and Housing: Use a clean rag to remove any dirt, rust, or debris from the spring and the housing.
Lubricate the Spring: Apply a thin layer of grease to the spring to help it move smoothly.
Insert the Spring into the Housing: Carefully coil the spring and insert it back into the housing. Ensure the end of the spring is properly seated in the hook or slot.
Wind the Spring: This is where it gets tricky. You need to wind the spring in the correct direction to create tension. The direction will depend on the specific design of the recoil assembly. I find it helpful to visualize how the rope will pull the pulley and how the spring needs to unwind to retract the rope.
- Method 1 (Using the Pulley): Place the pulley back into the housing. Rotate the pulley in the direction that winds the spring tighter. You’ll feel the resistance increase as you wind it. The number of turns will vary depending on the spring, usually between 3 and 5 full rotations.
- Method 2 (Using Pliers): If the pulley is difficult to use, you can use pliers to carefully grip the end of the spring and wind it. Be extremely careful not to damage the spring.
Secure the Spring: Once the spring is wound, carefully hold it in place while you prepare to reassemble the pulley.

Scenario 2: Installing a New Spring

Purchase a Replacement Spring: Make sure you get the correct spring for your chainsaw model. The dimensions, wire gauge, and number of coils must match the original spring.
Clean the Housing: Clean the recoil housing thoroughly.
Lubricate the Spring: Apply a thin layer of grease to the new spring.
Insert the Spring into the Housing: Carefully coil the spring and insert it into the housing. Ensure the end of the spring is properly seated in the hook or slot.
Wind the Spring: Follow the same winding procedure as described above for rewinding an intact spring.

Step 4: Reassembling the Recoil Assembly

Position the Pulley: Carefully place the pulley back into the housing, aligning it with the spring.
Secure the Pulley Retainer: Install the snap ring, retaining clip, or screws to hold the pulley in place. Make sure the retainer is securely fastened.
Test the Spring Tension: Before reinstalling the recoil assembly on the chainsaw, test the spring tension. The pulley should rotate smoothly and retract the rope with a good amount of force. If the tension is too weak, you may need to wind the spring a bit more. If it’s too strong, you may need to unwind it slightly.

Step 5: Reinstalling the Recoil Assembly

Align the Recoil Assembly: Carefully align the recoil assembly with the engine.
Attach the Rope to the Handle: Thread the rope through the hole in the recoil housing and tie a secure knot at the end of the handle. Make sure the knot is large enough to prevent the rope from slipping back through the hole.
Secure the Recoil Housing: Use the screws or bolts to reattach the recoil housing to the engine. Make sure the housing is securely fastened.

Step 6: Testing the Pull Start

Pull the Rope: Give the rope a few gentle pulls to test the pull start. The engine should turn over smoothly, and the rope should retract fully each time.
Adjust Tension (If Necessary): If the rope doesn’t retract fully, you may need to adjust the spring tension. This may involve removing the recoil assembly and winding or unwinding the spring slightly.
Start the Chainsaw: Once you’re satisfied with the pull start, try starting the chainsaw. If it starts easily, you’ve successfully rewound the spring!

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with the best instructions, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are some common issues you might encounter and how to troubleshoot them.

Rope Doesn’t Retract Fully: This usually indicates insufficient spring tension. Try winding the spring a bit more.
Rope Retracts Too Slowly: This could be due to friction in the mechanism. Make sure all the parts are clean and lubricated.
Rope Breaks Easily: This could be due to a worn or frayed rope. Replace the rope with a new one.
Spring Breaks: This is usually due to fatigue or corrosion. Replace the spring with a new one.
Pulley Doesn’t Rotate Smoothly: This could be due to a bent or damaged pulley. Replace the pulley with a new one.
Pawls Don’t Engage: This could be due to worn or damaged pawls. Replace the pawls with new ones.

Pro Tips for Vintage Chainsaws

Working on vintage chainsaws presents unique challenges. Here are some pro tips I’ve learned over the years.

Parts May Be Hard to Find: Finding replacement parts for vintage chainsaws can be difficult. Try searching online auction sites, antique tool dealers, or chainsaw repair shops that specialize in older models.
Rust Can Be a Major Issue: Vintage chainsaws are often heavily rusted. Use penetrating oil and a wire brush to remove rust from all the components.
Rubber Parts May Be Deteriorated: Rubber parts, such as fuel lines and seals, can deteriorate over time. Inspect these parts carefully and replace them if necessary.
Carburetor Issues Are Common: Vintage chainsaws often have carburetor issues. Clean the carburetor thoroughly and replace any worn or damaged parts.
Take Your Time: Working on vintage chainsaws requires patience and attention to detail. Don’t rush the process.

Case Study: Reviving a 1960s McCulloch Chainsaw

I once rescued a 1960s McCulloch chainsaw from a barn. It was in rough shape, covered in rust and grime. The pull start was completely seized.

Disassembly: I carefully disassembled the entire chainsaw, taking photos of each step.
Cleaning: I used penetrating oil and a wire brush to remove the rust from all the components.
Pull Start Repair: The recoil spring was broken. I managed to find a replacement spring online. I cleaned and lubricated the recoil housing and installed the new spring.
Carburetor Rebuild: The carburetor was completely clogged. I disassembled it, cleaned it thoroughly, and replaced the gaskets and seals.
Reassembly: I reassembled the chainsaw, referring to the photos I had taken.
Testing: To my surprise, the chainsaw started on the second pull! It ran like a champ.

This project taught me the importance of patience, attention to detail, and the value of preserving vintage tools.

Wood Processing and Firewood Preparation: The Bigger Picture

Rewinding a pull start spring is just one small part of the larger process of wood processing and firewood preparation. Let’s take a step back and look at the bigger picture.

Felling Trees: The First Step

Safety First: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a hard hat, safety glasses, and hearing protection.
Plan Your Cut: Before you start cutting, assess the tree and its surroundings. Identify any hazards, such as power lines or buildings. Plan the direction of the fall.
Make the Notch Cut: The notch cut is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Back Cut: The back cut is a horizontal cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. Leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the fall.
Use Wedges (If Necessary): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, use wedges to help guide the fall.

Debarking Logs: Removing the Outer Layer

Why Debark? Debarking logs helps to prevent insect infestations and rot. It also makes the wood easier to dry.
Tools for Debarking: You can use a drawknife, a barking spud, or a chainsaw to debark logs.
Techniques for Debarking: Use the drawknife or barking spud to peel the bark off the log. Use the chainsaw to score the bark and then peel it off.

Splitting Firewood: Preparing for the Hearth

Why Split Firewood? Splitting firewood helps it to dry faster and makes it easier to handle.
Tools for Splitting: You can use an axe, a maul, or a log splitter to split firewood. I personally prefer a hydraulic log splitter for larger volumes. It saves a lot of time and back strain.
Techniques for Splitting: Place the log on a chopping block. Position the axe or maul on the log and swing with force. If using a log splitter, place the log on the splitter and activate the hydraulic ram.

Drying Firewood: Achieving Optimal Moisture Content

Why Dry Firewood? Dry firewood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke. Green wood contains a lot of moisture, which reduces its heating value and increases the risk of creosote buildup in your chimney.
Ideal Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%.
Drying Methods: Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight and rain. Allow the firewood to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year. I’ve found that elevated stacks on pallets dry significantly faster.
Moisture Meters: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the firewood.

Stacking Firewood: Maximizing Space and Airflow

Stacking Methods: There are many different ways to stack firewood. Some popular methods include the Holzhaufen (a circular stack), the Swedish Fire Log, and simple linear rows.
Considerations for Stacking: Choose a stacking method that maximizes space and airflow. Stack the firewood off the ground to prevent moisture buildup.
My Personal Method: I prefer stacking firewood in rows, with a space between each row for ventilation. I also cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.

Strategic Advantages of Efficient Wood Processing

Efficient wood processing and firewood preparation offer several strategic advantages:

Cost Savings: By processing your own firewood, you can save money on heating costs.
Independence: You become less reliant on external sources of fuel.
Environmental Benefits: Burning wood is a renewable energy source.
Exercise: Wood processing is a great way to get exercise and stay active.
Self-Sufficiency: It provides a sense of self-sufficiency and accomplishment.

Next Steps: Putting Your Knowledge into Action

Now that you have a solid understanding of how to rewind a pull start spring and the broader context of wood processing and firewood preparation, it’s time to put your knowledge into action.

Identify Your Needs: Determine your firewood needs and the amount of wood you’ll need to process each year.
Assess Your Resources: Evaluate your available resources, including land, tools, and time.
Develop a Plan: Create a plan for wood processing, including felling, debarking, splitting, drying, and stacking.
Gather Your Tools: Assemble the necessary tools, including a chainsaw, axe, maul, log splitter, and moisture meter.
Start Processing: Begin processing your firewood, following the steps outlined in this guide.
Stay Safe: Always prioritize safety when working with wood processing tools and equipment.

Final Thoughts

Rewinding a pull start spring can seem daunting at first, but with a little patience and the right guidance, it’s a manageable task. And remember, it’s just one piece of the puzzle. Mastering the art of wood processing and firewood preparation can provide you with a sustainable source of heat, a sense of accomplishment, and a deeper connection to the natural world. Now, go forth and conquer that pull start spring! And maybe, just maybe, your furry friend will thank you with an extra-cozy nap by the fire. Remember Buster? He would have loved that.