How to Notch a Tree to Cut It Down (1/3 Diameter Rule Explained)

Did you know that improper tree felling techniques account for nearly 50% of all logging-related injuries and fatalities? It’s a sobering statistic, and it underscores the critical importance of mastering safe and effective tree felling methods. One of the most fundamental aspects of safe tree felling is understanding and executing the proper notch. This guide will walk you through the 1/3 diameter rule, providing a step-by-step approach to notching trees safely and effectively. I’ll share my experiences, insights gleaned from years in the field, and practical tips to help you fell trees with confidence.

Mastering the Art of the Notch: A Guide to the 1/3 Diameter Rule

The notch, also known as the face cut, is the first cut you make when felling a tree. Its primary purpose is to control the direction in which the tree will fall. A well-executed notch, combined with a proper back cut, allows you to guide the tree safely to the ground, minimizing the risk of damage to property, injury to yourself or others, and wasted timber. The 1/3 diameter rule is a guideline that ensures the notch is of adequate size to effectively steer the tree.

What is the 1/3 Diameter Rule?

The 1/3 diameter rule dictates that the depth of your notch should be approximately one-third of the tree’s diameter at the point where you are making the cut. This measurement is crucial for creating a hinge, which is the area of uncut wood left between the notch and the back cut. The hinge acts as a guide, ensuring the tree falls in the intended direction.

Key Terms and Concepts:

• Felling: The process of cutting down a tree.
• Notch (Face Cut): The wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.
• Back Cut: The cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the bottom of the notch.
• Hinge: The uncut wood between the notch and the back cut that controls the direction of the fall.
• Diameter: The width of the tree at the point where you are making the cuts.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce its moisture content.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw.
• Bar Length: The length of the chainsaw bar.

Why is the 1/3 Diameter Rule Important?

• Directional Control: A notch that’s too shallow won’t provide enough leverage to steer the tree, potentially leading to unpredictable falls. A notch that’s too deep can weaken the tree prematurely, causing it to fall before you’re ready.
• Hinge Strength: The 1/3 diameter rule helps maintain adequate hinge strength. A properly sized hinge will guide the tree smoothly and prevent it from twisting or kicking back.
• Safety: By controlling the fall, you minimize the risk of the tree landing in an unintended location, such as on a building, power line, or person.
• Timber Utilization: A controlled fall reduces the risk of splitting or damaging the timber, maximizing the usable wood.

Step-by-Step Guide to Notching a Tree Using the 1/3 Diameter Rule

Here’s a detailed breakdown of how to notch a tree, incorporating the 1/3 diameter rule:

Step 1: Assess the Tree and Surroundings

Before you even start your chainsaw, take a thorough look at the tree and its surroundings. This is arguably the most important step.

• Lean: Determine the tree’s natural lean. Most trees have a slight lean, which will influence the direction of the fall.
• Wind: Consider the wind direction. Even a slight breeze can affect the tree’s trajectory.
• Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the intended fall zone, such as buildings, power lines, fences, or other trees.
• Escape Route: Plan your escape route. You should have a clear path, angled at 45 degrees away from the direction of the fall.
• Tree Species: Identify the type of tree. Different tree species have different densities and felling characteristics. For example, a dense hardwood like oak will behave differently than a softwood like pine.
• Diameter: Measure the tree’s diameter at chest height (DBH) and at the point where you plan to make the notch. This will help you calculate the correct notch depth.

My Experience: I once underestimated the effect of a slight breeze while felling a large oak tree. The tree landed several feet off my intended target, narrowly missing a shed. This experience taught me the importance of meticulously assessing the conditions before making any cuts.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools and Safety Gear

• Chainsaw: Choose a chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the tree’s diameter. A good rule of thumb is to have a bar length that is at least two inches longer than the tree’s diameter. I personally prefer Stihl or Husqvarna chainsaws for their reliability and power. For most trees I fell, my Stihl MS 261 with an 18-inch bar is more than adequate.
• Measuring Tape: To accurately measure the tree’s diameter and calculate the notch depth.
• Felling Axe or Wedge: To help guide the tree’s fall and prevent the saw from binding.
• Marking Tool: A crayon or lumber crayon to mark the notch depth.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This is non-negotiable. Always wear a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw: Stihl MS 261, 18-inch bar, 0.325″ chain pitch
• Felling Axe: Gränsfors Bruks Small Forest Axe, 1.9 lbs
• Wedges: Oregon 5.5-inch plastic felling wedges

Step 3: Calculate the Notch Depth

Measure the tree’s diameter at the point where you will make the notch. Divide this measurement by three to determine the correct notch depth.

• Example: If the tree’s diameter is 24 inches, the notch depth should be 24 inches / 3 = 8 inches.

Step 4: Mark the Notch

Use your measuring tape and marking tool to mark the notch depth on the tree. This will serve as a guide for your cuts.

• Precision is Key: Accurate markings are essential for a well-executed notch.

Step 5: Make the Top Cut of the Notch

The top cut of the notch should be angled downwards at approximately 45 degrees. Start the cut slowly and carefully, using the markings as your guide.

• Plunge Cut Technique (Optional): For larger trees, you may need to use a plunge cut to reach the desired depth. To do this, rest the bottom of the chainsaw against the tree and carefully pivot the saw into the wood.
• Maintain a Consistent Angle: Keep the angle of the cut consistent throughout to create a clean, even notch.

Step 6: Make the Bottom Cut of the Notch

The bottom cut of the notch should be horizontal and meet the top cut at the desired depth. This will create a wedge-shaped notch.

• Meeting Point: Ensure the top and bottom cuts meet precisely at the marked depth. This is crucial for a clean, effective notch.
• Remove the Wedge: Once both cuts are complete, remove the wedge of wood from the notch.

Step 7: Inspect the Notch

Carefully inspect the notch to ensure it is clean, even, and of the correct depth. The two cuts should meet cleanly at the marked depth, forming a precise wedge.

• Correcting Imperfections: If the notch is not perfect, use your chainsaw to make any necessary corrections.

Step 8: Prepare for the Back Cut

Before making the back cut, double-check your escape route and ensure the area is clear.

Step 9: Make the Back Cut

The back cut should be made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the bottom of the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood between the back cut and the notch.

• Hinge Width: The hinge should be approximately 1/10th of the tree’s diameter. For a 24-inch tree, the hinge should be about 2.4 inches wide.
• Don’t Cut Through the Hinge: It is crucial not to cut completely through the hinge, as this will remove your directional control.
• Wedges: As you make the back cut, insert felling wedges into the cut to prevent the saw from binding and to help guide the tree’s fall.

Step 10: Monitor the Tree’s Fall

As you complete the back cut, carefully monitor the tree’s movement. Be prepared to move quickly to your escape route if necessary.

Step 11: Retreat to Safety

Once the tree begins to fall, immediately retreat to your predetermined escape route. Keep your eye on the tree until it hits the ground.

Case Study: Felling a Leaning Pine Tree

I once had to fell a large pine tree that was leaning heavily towards a neighboring property. The tree was approximately 30 inches in diameter. Using the 1/3 diameter rule, I calculated a notch depth of 10 inches. I carefully assessed the lean and wind direction, and planned my escape route accordingly.

I made the top and bottom cuts of the notch, ensuring they met precisely at the 10-inch mark. I then made the back cut, leaving a hinge of approximately 3 inches. As I completed the back cut, I inserted felling wedges to help guide the tree’s fall. The tree fell exactly as planned, away from the neighboring property.

This experience highlighted the importance of careful planning, accurate measurements, and precise execution when felling trees, especially when dealing with challenging situations like leaning trees.

Advanced Techniques and Considerations

Beyond the basic 1/3 diameter rule, there are several advanced techniques and considerations that can further enhance your tree felling skills:

Humboldt Notch

The Humboldt notch is a variation of the traditional notch that is particularly useful for larger trees or trees with a significant lean. The Humboldt notch involves making the top cut of the notch horizontal and the bottom cut angled upwards. This creates a larger, more stable hinge that provides greater control over the tree’s fall.

• Advantages: Increased stability, better control in difficult situations.
• Disadvantages: Requires more skill and precision.

Open Face Notch

The open face notch is another variation that involves making the notch at a wider angle (typically 70-90 degrees). This type of notch is often used in professional logging operations because it allows for a cleaner break and reduces the risk of barber chairing (when the tree splits upwards during the fall).

• Advantages: Cleaner break, reduced risk of barber chairing.
• Disadvantages: Requires specialized knowledge and equipment.

Using Felling Wedges Effectively

Felling wedges are essential tools for guiding the tree’s fall and preventing the saw from binding. Here are some tips for using them effectively:

• Material: Wedges are typically made of plastic, aluminum, or steel. Plastic wedges are generally preferred because they are less likely to damage your chainsaw chain if you accidentally hit them.
• Size: Choose wedges that are appropriate for the size of the tree.
• Placement: Insert the wedges into the back cut as you are making it. Drive them in firmly with a hammer or axe.
• Multiple Wedges: For larger trees, you may need to use multiple wedges to provide adequate lifting force.
• Patience: Don’t try to force the tree to fall too quickly. Gradually increase the pressure on the wedges until the tree begins to move.

My Insight: I’ve found that using a combination of plastic and aluminum wedges works best. The plastic wedges are gentler on the chain, while the aluminum wedges provide more lifting power for stubborn trees.

Dealing with Back Lean

Trees with a back lean (leaning against the direction you want them to fall) can be particularly challenging to fell safely. Here are some strategies for dealing with back lean:

• Winching: Use a winch to pull the tree in the desired direction before making the back cut.
• Counter-Wedging: Insert wedges into the back cut and drive them in forcefully to help overcome the back lean.
• Professional Assistance: If you are not comfortable felling a tree with a significant back lean, it is best to seek professional assistance.

Chainsaw Maintenance

Proper chainsaw maintenance is crucial for safe and efficient tree felling. Here are some key maintenance tasks:

• Sharpening: Keep your chainsaw chain sharp. A dull chain can be dangerous and inefficient. I use a chainsaw file and guide to sharpen my chain regularly.
• Cleaning: Clean your chainsaw regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
• Lubrication: Ensure the chain is properly lubricated.
• Inspection: Inspect your chainsaw regularly for any signs of damage or wear.
• Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture for your chainsaw.

Tool Tip: Consider investing in a chainsaw chain sharpener. It will save you time and effort and ensure your chain is always sharp.

Wood Processing and Firewood Preparation

Once you’ve felled the tree, the next step is to process the wood. This may involve bucking (cutting the tree into manageable lengths), splitting, and stacking the wood for drying.

Bucking

Bucking is the process of cutting the felled tree into shorter lengths, typically for firewood or lumber.

• Safety: Always wear appropriate PPE when bucking wood.
• Technique: Use a chainsaw to cut the tree into the desired lengths. Be careful to avoid kickback.
• Support: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the saw.
• Log Lengths: Firewood is typically cut into lengths of 16-24 inches.

Splitting

Splitting is the process of splitting the bucked logs into smaller pieces for firewood.

• Manual Splitting: Use a splitting axe or maul to split the logs by hand. This is a good option for smaller quantities of wood.
• Hydraulic Splitter: Use a hydraulic log splitter to split the logs. This is a more efficient option for larger quantities of wood. I personally use a 25-ton hydraulic splitter, which makes splitting even the toughest hardwoods a breeze.
• Wood Type: Different types of wood split differently. Softwoods like pine are generally easier to split than hardwoods like oak.
• Grain: Split the wood along the grain for best results.
• Moisture Content: Green wood is generally easier to split than seasoned wood.

Strategic Advantage: Investing in a hydraulic log splitter significantly increases efficiency and reduces physical strain, especially when processing large volumes of firewood.

Stacking and Drying

Proper stacking and drying are essential for producing high-quality firewood.

• Stacking Method: Stack the wood in a way that allows for good air circulation. A common method is to stack the wood in rows, with gaps between the rows.
• Location: Stack the wood in a sunny, well-ventilated location.
• Covering: Cover the top of the stack to protect the wood from rain and snow.
• Drying Time: Allow the wood to dry for at least six months, and preferably a year or more.
• Moisture Content Targets: Firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning. Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood.

Data Insight: Wood with a moisture content above 30% burns inefficiently and produces excessive smoke and creosote.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Drying

I conducted a small experiment to compare different firewood drying methods. I split a batch of oak logs and stacked them using three different methods:

1. Traditional Row Stacking: Logs stacked in rows with gaps between the rows.
2. Circular Stacking: Logs stacked in a circular pattern, creating a chimney effect for airflow.
3. Elevated Stacking: Logs stacked on pallets to elevate them off the ground.

After one year of drying, I measured the moisture content of the wood using a moisture meter. The results were as follows:

1. Traditional Row Stacking: 22% moisture content
2. Circular Stacking: 18% moisture content
3. Elevated Stacking: 19% moisture content

The results showed that circular stacking and elevated stacking resulted in slightly faster drying times compared to traditional row stacking. This experiment highlighted the importance of optimizing airflow for efficient firewood drying.

Safety Considerations

Tree felling and wood processing are inherently dangerous activities. Always prioritize safety and follow these guidelines:

• Wear PPE: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment.
• Inspect Equipment: Inspect your equipment regularly for any signs of damage or wear.
• Clear the Area: Ensure the area is clear of people and obstacles before felling a tree.
• Plan Your Escape Route: Plan your escape route and ensure it is clear.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for hazards such as falling branches.
• Don’t Work Alone: Work with a partner whenever possible.
• Take Breaks: Take breaks to avoid fatigue.
• Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to fell trees that are beyond your skill level.
• Professional Training: Consider taking a professional tree felling course.

My Personal Rule: I never fell trees when I’m feeling tired or distracted. It’s just not worth the risk.

Costs and Material Specifications

Here’s a general overview of the costs and material specifications involved in tree felling and firewood preparation:

• Chainsaw: \$300 – \$1000+ (depending on size and features)
• Felling Axe: \$50 – \$200+
• Wedges: \$10 – \$50 (per set)
• Hydraulic Log Splitter: \$1000 – \$3000+
• PPE: \$100 – \$300+
• Fuel and Oil: Variable (depending on usage)
• Moisture Meter: \$20 – \$100+
• Wood: Variable (depending on location and species)
• Moisture Content Targets: <20% for firewood
• Drying Time: 6 months to 2 years (depending on wood type and climate)

Skill Levels Required:

• Basic Tree Felling: Requires basic knowledge of tree felling techniques and safety procedures.
• Advanced Tree Felling: Requires advanced knowledge of tree felling techniques, including dealing with challenging situations such as back lean and wind.
• Wood Processing: Requires knowledge of bucking, splitting, and stacking techniques.

Practical Next Steps

Ready to put your newfound knowledge into practice? Here are some practical next steps:

1. Practice on Smaller Trees: Start by practicing your notching and felling techniques on smaller, less challenging trees.
2. Take a Tree Felling Course: Consider taking a professional tree felling course to learn from experienced instructors.
3. Invest in Quality Equipment: Invest in quality equipment and PPE to ensure your safety and efficiency.
4. Start Small: Don’t try to tackle too much at once. Start with a small project and gradually increase the scale as you gain experience.
5. Join a Community: Join a local forestry or firewood preparation community to share knowledge and learn from others.

Mastering the art of notching a tree using the 1/3 diameter rule is a fundamental skill for anyone involved in tree felling or wood processing. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can fell trees safely and effectively, minimizing the risk of injury and maximizing the utilization of your timber. Remember to always prioritize safety, plan carefully, and practice regularly. With time and experience, you’ll become a confident and skilled tree feller.

Challenges Faced by Global DIYers and Small-Scale Logging Businesses

DIYers and small-scale logging businesses around the world often face unique challenges:

• Limited Access to Equipment: High-quality chainsaws, hydraulic splitters, and other essential equipment can be expensive and difficult to access in some regions.
• Lack of Training: Formal tree felling and wood processing training may not be readily available in all areas.
• Varying Safety Standards: Safety standards and regulations can vary widely from country to country.
• Environmental Regulations: Compliance with environmental regulations can be complex and costly.
• Market Access: Small-scale logging businesses may struggle to access markets for their timber and firewood.
• Language Barriers: Language barriers can make it difficult to access information and resources.

Addressing these challenges requires:

• Affordable Equipment Options: Developing more affordable and accessible equipment options for DIYers and small-scale businesses.
• Online Training Resources: Creating online training resources in multiple languages to provide accessible education.
• Community Support Networks: Building community support networks to share knowledge and resources.
• Simplified Regulatory Guidance: Providing simplified guidance on environmental regulations and safety standards.

By addressing these challenges, we can empower DIYers and small-scale logging businesses around the world to practice sustainable and safe tree felling and wood processing techniques.

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