How to Make a Tree Fall a Certain Direction (Expert Notch Tips)

Mastering Directional Tree Felling: Expert Notch Tips

Felling a tree safely and predictably is paramount, and the notch, or face cut, is the cornerstone of directional control. It determines the direction in which the tree will fall. A well-executed notch guides the tree, preventing it from twisting, kicking back, or falling unpredictably. In this guide, I’ll delve into the intricacies of creating effective notches, covering everything from basic principles to advanced techniques.

Understanding the Fundamentals of the Notch

The notch is a wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree facing the intended direction of fall. It consists of two primary cuts: the top cut and the bottom cut. The angle and depth of these cuts are crucial for achieving the desired result.

• The Top Cut: This cut is typically made at a downward angle, aiming towards the center of the tree.
• The Bottom Cut: This cut is made horizontally, meeting the top cut to create the wedge.

Why is the Notch Angle Important?

The angle of the notch directly influences the leverage the tree exerts as it begins to fall. A steeper angle encourages a faster, more aggressive fall, while a shallower angle provides more control and a slower descent.

Notch Depth: Finding the Sweet Spot

The depth of the notch, measured as a percentage of the tree’s diameter, is another critical factor. A notch that’s too shallow won’t provide enough guidance, while one that’s too deep can weaken the tree and increase the risk of barber chairing (a dangerous split that runs up the trunk). As a general rule, I aim for a notch depth of 20-30% of the tree’s diameter.

My Experience: I once underestimated the notch depth on a leaning oak. The tree started to fall in the right direction, but then it twisted violently, nearly taking out a nearby power line. That experience taught me the importance of meticulous planning and precise execution.

The Open Face Notch: A Beginner-Friendly Approach

The open face notch is an excellent starting point for beginners. It’s relatively simple to execute and provides good directional control. The angle between the top and bottom cuts is typically around 90 degrees or slightly greater.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting an Open Face Notch:

1. Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the intended fall path.
2. Plan Your Cuts: Visualize the notch and the hinge (the uncut wood that controls the fall).
3. Make the Top Cut: Using your chainsaw, make a downward angled cut to the desired depth.
4. Make the Bottom Cut: Make a horizontal cut that meets the top cut, removing the wedge of wood.
5. Refine the Notch: Ensure the notch is clean and free of debris.

Tool List:

• Chainsaw (with sharp chain)
• Wedges (plastic or aluminum)
• Felling axe or hammer
• Measuring tape
• Chainsaw chaps, helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves

Real-World Example: I used the open face notch extensively when clearing a small plot of land for a garden. It allowed me to fell a variety of trees, from small pines to medium-sized maples, with consistent accuracy.

Takeaway: The open face notch is a reliable technique for beginners. Practice on smaller trees to develop your skills and confidence.

The Conventional Notch: Precision and Control

The conventional notch, also known as the closed face notch, is a more advanced technique that offers greater precision and control. The angle between the top and bottom cuts is typically around 45 degrees.

Why Choose a Conventional Notch?

• Improved Accuracy: The shallower angle allows for finer adjustments and greater control over the fall.
• Reduced Kickback Risk: The closed face design helps to minimize the risk of kickback.
• Suitable for Larger Trees: The conventional notch is well-suited for felling larger trees.

Cutting a Conventional Notch: A Detailed Guide:

1. Prepare the Work Area: Clear any brush or debris around the base of the tree.
2. Mark the Notch: Use a measuring tape and chalk to mark the desired notch depth and angle.
3. Make the Top Cut: Carefully make the angled top cut, ensuring it’s smooth and consistent.
4. Make the Bottom Cut: Make the horizontal bottom cut, meeting the top cut precisely.
5. Inspect the Notch: Check the notch for any imperfections and correct them as needed.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

• Overcutting the Notch: Cutting too deep can weaken the tree and increase the risk of barber chairing.
• Uneven Cuts: Inconsistent cuts can lead to unpredictable falls.
• Ignoring Lean: Failing to account for the tree’s natural lean can result in misdirected falls.

Case Study: I once used the conventional notch to fell a towering spruce tree near a residential property. The precision of the notch allowed me to drop the tree exactly where I wanted it, avoiding any damage to the surrounding structures.

Takeaway: The conventional notch requires more skill and attention to detail, but it offers superior control and accuracy.

The Humboldt Notch: For Trees with a Strong Lean

The Humboldt notch, named after the region in California where it originated, is designed for felling trees with a significant lean. It involves making an upward-angled cut instead of the traditional downward-angled top cut.

How the Humboldt Notch Works:

The upward-angled cut creates a larger holding wood area, which helps to prevent the tree from pulling away from the stump prematurely. This is particularly important when felling trees that are leaning heavily in one direction.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting a Humboldt Notch:

1. Assess the Lean: Carefully evaluate the direction and degree of the tree’s lean.
2. Make the Bottom Cut: Start by making a horizontal cut at the desired notch depth.
3. Make the Top Cut: Make an upward-angled cut that meets the bottom cut, creating the wedge.
4. Ensure Proper Depth: The notch should be deep enough to provide adequate guidance but not so deep that it weakens the tree.

Unique Insights: The Humboldt notch requires a different mindset than the traditional notches. You’re essentially working against gravity, so it’s crucial to maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw and be prepared for the tree to move quickly.

My Experience: I used the Humboldt notch to fell a leaning redwood tree that was threatening a nearby cabin. The technique worked flawlessly, allowing me to drop the tree safely and precisely.

Takeaway: The Humboldt notch is a specialized technique for dealing with leaning trees. It requires careful planning and execution but can be a lifesaver in challenging situations.

Fine-Tuning the Hinge: The Key to Controlled Falls

The hinge is the uncut portion of wood between the back of the notch and the felling cut. It acts as a pivot point, controlling the speed and direction of the fall. The size and shape of the hinge are critical for achieving the desired result.

Hinge Width: Finding the Right Balance

The width of the hinge should be proportional to the diameter of the tree. A hinge that’s too narrow can break prematurely, leading to an uncontrolled fall. A hinge that’s too wide can prevent the tree from falling altogether.

General Guidelines for Hinge Width:

• Small Trees (6-12 inches diameter): 1-2 inches hinge width
• Medium Trees (12-24 inches diameter): 2-4 inches hinge width
• Large Trees (24+ inches diameter): 4-6 inches hinge width

Hinge Thickness: Maintaining Structural Integrity

The thickness of the hinge, measured from the back of the notch to the felling cut, should be consistent throughout. Uneven thickness can cause the tree to twist or kick back.

Shaping the Hinge: Optimizing Control

The shape of the hinge can also be customized to influence the fall. A straight hinge provides a consistent, predictable fall. A tapered hinge, wider at the sides and narrower in the center, can encourage the tree to fall faster.

Practical Tips:

• Use a measuring tape and chalk to mark the desired hinge dimensions.
• Make the felling cut carefully, ensuring it’s parallel to the back of the notch.
• Inspect the hinge for any imperfections and correct them as needed.

Research Findings: Studies have shown that a properly sized and shaped hinge can significantly reduce the risk of accidents during tree felling.

Takeaway: The hinge is a crucial element of directional tree felling. Pay close attention to its size, shape, and thickness to ensure a safe and controlled fall.

The Felling Cut: Completing the Process

The felling cut, also known as the back cut, is the final cut that separates the tree from the stump. It’s made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, leaving the hinge intact.

Making a Safe and Effective Felling Cut:

1. Insert Wedges: Before making the felling cut, insert wedges into the notch to prevent the tree from settling back on the chainsaw.
2. Start the Cut: Begin the felling cut slightly above the level of the notch, leaving the desired hinge thickness.
3. Maintain a Consistent Depth: Keep the depth of the felling cut consistent, ensuring it’s parallel to the back of the notch.
4. Watch for Movement: As you make the cut, watch for any signs of movement in the tree. If the tree starts to fall prematurely, stop cutting and use wedges to control the descent.
5. Complete the Cut: Once the felling cut is complete, the tree should fall in the intended direction.

The Importance of Wedges:

Wedges are essential for preventing the tree from pinching the chainsaw or kicking back unexpectedly. They also help to lift the tree slightly, making it easier to control the fall. I always carry a variety of wedges with me, including plastic, aluminum, and steel wedges.

Advanced Techniques:

• The Bore Cut: For larger trees, I sometimes use a bore cut to create a hinge from the inside out. This technique involves plunging the chainsaw into the tree from the side, creating a cavity that allows me to shape the hinge with greater precision.
• The Plunge Cut: The plunge cut is another advanced technique that involves plunging the chainsaw directly into the tree from the back, leaving a small amount of holding wood. This technique is often used in conjunction with wedges to control the fall of the tree.

Safety Precautions:

• Always wear appropriate safety gear, including chainsaw chaps, a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves.
• Maintain a safe distance from the tree as it falls.
• Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for any obstacles in the fall path.

Takeaway: The felling cut is the final step in the tree felling process. Make it carefully and deliberately, using wedges and advanced techniques as needed to ensure a safe and controlled fall.

Dealing with Back Lean: Strategies for Challenging Trees

Back lean occurs when a tree leans in the opposite direction of the intended fall. This can make felling the tree safely and predictably a significant challenge.

Assessing the Situation:

Before attempting to fell a tree with back lean, carefully assess the situation. Consider the degree of lean, the size of the tree, and any potential hazards in the area.

Strategies for Felling Trees with Back Lean:

1. Wedges: Wedges are your best friend when dealing with back lean. Drive wedges into the felling cut to lift the tree slightly and encourage it to fall in the desired direction.
2. Pulling with a Winch: If wedges aren’t enough, you can use a winch to pull the tree in the intended direction. Attach the winch cable to the tree as high as possible and gradually apply tension as you make the felling cut.
3. Using a Felling Lever: A felling lever is a long metal bar that can be used to apply leverage to the tree. Insert the lever into the felling cut and use it to push the tree over.
4. The “Dutchman” Cut: The “Dutchman” cut involves making a series of small, angled cuts on the back of the tree to weaken it and encourage it to fall in the desired direction. This technique requires a high degree of skill and should only be attempted by experienced tree fellers.

My Hardest Job: I once had to fell a massive oak tree with a severe back lean. It was located near a busy road, and there was no room for error. I ended up using a combination of wedges, a winch, and a felling lever to safely bring the tree down. It was one of the most challenging jobs I’ve ever done.

Expert Advice: When dealing with back lean, it’s always better to err on the side of caution. If you’re not comfortable with the situation, don’t hesitate to call in a professional.

Takeaway: Felling trees with back lean requires careful planning, specialized techniques, and a healthy dose of caution.

Recognizing and Avoiding Barber Chairing

Barber chairing is a dangerous phenomenon that occurs when the tree splits vertically up the trunk during the felling process. This can cause the tree to kick back violently, posing a serious risk to the feller.

What Causes Barber Chairing?

Barber chairing is typically caused by tension in the wood fibers. This tension can be created by several factors, including:

• Back lean
• Internal stresses
• Decay

How to Prevent Barber Chairing:

1. Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree for signs of tension, such as cracks or bulges in the trunk.
2. Use Wedges: Wedges help to relieve tension in the wood fibers and prevent the tree from splitting.
3. Make a Pre-Cut: For trees with suspected tension, make a shallow pre-cut on the back of the tree before making the felling cut. This will help to relieve the tension and prevent barber chairing.
4. Avoid Cutting Too Deep: Cutting too deep into the tree can weaken the wood fibers and increase the risk of barber chairing.

What to Do If Barber Chairing Occurs:

If you see signs of barber chairing, stop cutting immediately and move away from the tree. The tree could kick back violently at any moment.

Safety First: I’ve witnessed barber chairing firsthand, and it’s a terrifying experience. Always prioritize safety and take precautions to prevent this dangerous phenomenon.

Takeaway: Barber chairing is a serious hazard that can be prevented with careful planning and execution.

Chainsaw Maintenance: Keeping Your Saw in Top Condition

A well-maintained chainsaw is essential for safe and efficient tree felling. A dull chain can increase the risk of kickback, while a poorly lubricated saw can overheat and seize up.

Essential Chainsaw Maintenance Tasks:

• Sharpen the Chain: Sharpen the chain regularly to ensure it cuts smoothly and efficiently.
• Clean the Air Filter: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and reduce engine performance.
• Check the Spark Plug: A fouled spark plug can cause the engine to misfire or fail to start.
• Lubricate the Chain: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to keep the chain lubricated and prevent wear.
• Inspect the Bar: Check the bar for wear and damage, and replace it as needed.
• Tighten the Chain: Keep the chain properly tensioned to prevent it from derailing.
• Clean the Saw: Clean the saw regularly to remove sawdust and debris.

Maintenance Schedule:

• Daily: Sharpen the chain, lubricate the chain, and clean the saw.
• Weekly: Clean the air filter, check the spark plug, and inspect the bar.
• Monthly: Check the chain tension, tighten any loose bolts, and lubricate the bearings.

My Chainsaw Routine: I’m meticulous about chainsaw maintenance. I sharpen my chain every day, clean the air filter every week, and perform a complete inspection every month. It’s a small investment of time that pays off in increased safety, efficiency, and longevity.

Takeaway: Regular chainsaw maintenance is crucial for safe and efficient tree felling. Follow a consistent maintenance schedule and address any issues promptly.

Understanding Wood Properties: How They Affect Felling

The properties of wood, such as density, grain, and moisture content, can significantly influence the felling process. Understanding these properties can help you make informed decisions about felling techniques and safety precautions.

Wood Density:

Denser woods, such as oak and maple, require more power to cut and are more likely to kick back. Lighter woods, such as pine and poplar, are easier to cut but may be more prone to splitting.

Wood Grain:

The grain of the wood can also affect the felling process. Straight-grained woods are easier to cut and split, while cross-grained woods can be more challenging.

Moisture Content:

The moisture content of the wood can influence its weight, strength, and cutting properties. Green wood (freshly cut wood) is heavier and more difficult to cut than dry wood.

How Wood Properties Affect Felling:

• Dense Woods: Use a sharp chain and a powerful chainsaw. Be prepared for kickback.
• Light Woods: Be careful not to overcut or split the wood.
• Green Wood: Allow for extra weight and use wedges to prevent the tree from settling back on the chainsaw.
• Cross-Grained Woods: Use a slower cutting speed and be prepared for the chain to bind.

Practical Application: I once had to fell a large oak tree that was partially decayed. The decay made the wood unpredictable and prone to splitting. I used a combination of wedges and a bore cut to safely bring the tree down.

Takeaway: Understanding the properties of wood can help you make informed decisions about felling techniques and safety precautions.

Essential Safety Gear: Protecting Yourself in the Woods

Tree felling is a dangerous activity, and it’s essential to wear appropriate safety gear to protect yourself from injury.

Required Safety Gear:

• Chainsaw Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are designed to protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
• Helmet: A helmet protects your head from falling branches and other debris.
• Eye Protection: Safety glasses or goggles protect your eyes from sawdust and flying debris.
• Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
• Gloves: Gloves protect your hands from cuts, scrapes, and vibrations.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.

Additional Safety Gear:

• First Aid Kit: A first aid kit should contain supplies for treating cuts, burns, and other injuries.
• Whistle: A whistle can be used to signal for help in an emergency.
• Communication Device: A cell phone or two-way radio can be used to communicate with others in case of an emergency.

Safety Checklist:

• Inspect your safety gear before each use.
• Make sure your safety gear fits properly.
• Replace any damaged or worn-out safety gear.
• Know how to use your safety gear properly.

Safety Mindset: Safety is not just about wearing the right gear; it’s also about having the right mindset. Be aware of your surroundings, take your time, and never take unnecessary risks.

Takeaway: Wearing appropriate safety gear is essential for protecting yourself from injury during tree felling.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Directional Tree Felling

Mastering directional tree felling is a journey, not a destination. It requires continuous learning, practice, and a commitment to safety. By understanding the principles outlined in this guide, you can significantly improve your skills and confidence. Remember to start with the basics, practice on smaller trees, and always prioritize safety. With time and experience, you’ll develop the ability to fell trees with precision and control, making your work in the woods safer, more efficient, and more rewarding. I hope this guide has provided you with the knowledge and tools you need to succeed. Now, go out there and practice!

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