How To Cut The Trunk Of A Tree (Double Trunk Saving Tips)

The crisp autumn air bites at my cheeks as I stand before a majestic oak, its twin trunks reaching skyward like the arms of a giant. This isn’t just any tree; it’s a challenge, an opportunity, and a responsibility. The homeowner wants it trimmed, but they also want to preserve its unique character. This means carefully felling one trunk while ensuring the other thrives. Over the years, I’ve faced countless trees, each with its own story and set of problems. Today, I’m going to share my hard-earned wisdom on how to safely and successfully cut the trunk of a tree, with a special focus on those tricky double-trunked specimens. This isn’t just about cutting wood; it’s about understanding trees, respecting their power, and preserving their legacy.

Assessing the Situation: The Foundation of Success

Before I even think about firing up my chainsaw, I spend a significant amount of time assessing the tree and its surroundings. This initial assessment is crucial for a safe and successful felling operation.

Identifying the Lean and Weight Distribution

The first thing I look for is the tree’s natural lean. Which way is it naturally inclined to fall? This is usually evident by observing the overall shape of the trunk and the distribution of branches. A tree that leans heavily in one direction will naturally want to fall that way.

Next, I assess the weight distribution. Are there more branches on one side than the other? This will influence the direction of the fall. I use a clinometer to get precise measurements of the lean angle. A lean angle greater than 15 degrees requires extra caution and specialized techniques.

Case Study: I once worked on a double-trunked maple where both trunks appeared to be equally balanced. However, closer inspection revealed that one trunk had significantly more internal decay. This shifted the weight distribution unexpectedly, and if I hadn’t identified it beforehand, it could have led to a dangerous situation.

Evaluating Environmental Factors

Wind is a major factor to consider. Even a slight breeze can significantly alter the tree’s trajectory during the fall. I always check the weather forecast before starting any felling operation and avoid working on windy days.

The terrain also plays a role. Is the ground level? Are there any obstacles, such as rocks, fences, or power lines, that could interfere with the fall? Uneven ground can cause the tree to bounce or roll after it hits the ground, so I clear the area as much as possible.

Finally, I consider the proximity of buildings, roads, and other structures. I need to ensure that the tree will fall safely away from these. I use ropes and wedges to control the direction of the fall, especially when working in confined spaces.

Inspecting the Tree for Defects

A thorough inspection of the tree itself is essential. I look for signs of decay, disease, and damage. These weaknesses can significantly affect the tree’s structural integrity and make it unpredictable during felling.

I pay close attention to the base of the tree, looking for fungal growth, cracks, and hollow spots. I also examine the trunk for any signs of insect infestation or previous damage from storms or lightning strikes.

Practical Tip: I use a sounding hammer to check for internal decay. A solid tree will produce a clear, ringing sound when struck, while a decayed tree will sound dull and hollow.

Assembling the Right Tools: Setting Yourself Up for Success

Having the right tools is just as important as knowing how to use them. Here’s a list of essential tools for felling trees, especially double-trunked ones:

Chainsaw: A powerful chainsaw with a sharp chain is the primary tool for felling trees. I recommend a professional-grade chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the size of the tree. I personally use a Stihl MS 462 for most felling operations.
Axes and Wedges: Axes and wedges are used to split wood and to help direct the fall of the tree. Steel wedges are more durable than plastic wedges, but they can damage the chainsaw chain if they come into contact with it. I prefer using a combination of both.
Felling Lever: A felling lever is a long, metal bar that is used to lift the tree and help it fall in the desired direction. It provides leverage and helps to overcome the tree’s natural lean.
Ropes and Pulling Devices: Ropes and pulling devices, such as a come-along or a winch, are used to pull the tree in the desired direction. They are particularly useful when working in confined spaces or when the tree has a strong lean.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Safety is paramount when felling trees. I always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.
First Aid Kit: Accidents can happen, so it’s essential to have a well-stocked first aid kit on hand.
Measuring Tools: A measuring tape and a clinometer are used to measure the tree’s diameter, height, and lean angle.
Communication Devices: A two-way radio or a cell phone is essential for communicating with other members of the team.
Tool Maintenance: I regularly inspect and maintain my tools to ensure they are in good working condition. This includes sharpening the chainsaw chain, lubricating the chainsaw bar, and checking the axes and wedges for damage.

Mastering the Felling Cuts: Precision and Control

The felling cuts are the most critical part of the felling operation. They determine the direction of the fall and the safety of the operation.

The Undercut: Setting the Stage

The undercut is a notch cut into the tree on the side where you want it to fall. It serves two main purposes: it helps to control the direction of the fall and it prevents the tree from splitting or barber-chairing as it falls.

The undercut consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut and a sloping cut. The horizontal cut is made first, followed by the sloping cut, which meets the horizontal cut at an angle of about 45 degrees. The depth of the undercut should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.

Practical Tip: I always aim for a clean, precise undercut. A poorly executed undercut can lead to unpredictable tree behavior during the fall.

The Back Cut: Releasing the Beast

The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the undercut. It is made horizontally and should be slightly higher than the horizontal cut of the undercut. The back cut is what actually severs the tree and allows it to fall.

I never cut completely through the tree when making the back cut. I leave a hinge of wood between the back cut and the undercut. This hinge helps to control the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from kicking back.

Safety First: I always stand to the side of the tree when making the back cut, in case the tree kicks back.

Using Wedges: Adding Control

Wedges are inserted into the back cut to help lift the tree and direct its fall. They are particularly useful when the tree has a strong lean or when working in confined spaces.

I drive the wedges into the back cut using a sledgehammer. I alternate between wedges on either side of the cut to ensure that the tree is lifted evenly.

Experience Speaks: I’ve learned the hard way that using too much force when driving wedges can cause the tree to split or kick back. It’s important to use a controlled, steady force.

Double-Trunked Trees: A Special Challenge

Felling a double-trunked tree presents unique challenges. The weight distribution is often uneven, and the two trunks can be intertwined, making it difficult to predict the tree’s behavior during the fall.

Assessing the Individual Trunks

I start by assessing each trunk individually. I look for the same factors as I would with a single-trunked tree: lean, weight distribution, and signs of decay or damage.

I also pay close attention to how the two trunks are connected. Are they fused together at the base? Are they intertwined higher up in the tree? This will influence how I approach the felling operation.

Determining the Felling Sequence

I carefully consider the felling sequence. Which trunk should I fell first? This depends on several factors, including the lean of each trunk, the weight distribution, and the proximity of obstacles.

In general, I prefer to fell the smaller, weaker trunk first. This reduces the risk of the larger trunk being damaged during the fall. However, if the smaller trunk is intertwined with the larger trunk, it may be necessary to fell the larger trunk first.

Making the Cuts: Precision is Key

The cuts for a double-trunked tree are similar to those for a single-trunked tree, but they require even more precision and control. I make sure to use sharp chains and to maintain a steady hand.

When felling the first trunk, I pay close attention to the reaction of the second trunk. It may shift or move as the first trunk falls. I am prepared to adjust my plan if necessary.

Saving the Remaining Trunk: The Art of Preservation

In many cases, the goal of felling a double-trunked tree is to save one of the trunks. This requires careful planning and execution.

I make sure to fell the first trunk in a way that minimizes the risk of damage to the remaining trunk. This may involve using ropes and pulling devices to control the direction of the fall.

After felling the first trunk, I inspect the remaining trunk for any signs of damage. I prune any broken or damaged branches and apply a wound dressing to any cuts or abrasions.

Real-World Example: I once worked on a double-trunked ash tree where the homeowner wanted to save one of the trunks. The two trunks were closely intertwined, making it difficult to fell one without damaging the other. I used a combination of ropes, wedges, and careful cutting to successfully fell one trunk while preserving the other.

Safety Protocols: Minimizing Risk

Felling trees is a dangerous activity, and it’s essential to follow strict safety protocols to minimize the risk of accidents.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

I never start a felling operation without wearing the appropriate PPE. This includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.

Maintaining a Safe Work Zone

I clear the work zone of any obstacles and establish a safe perimeter around the tree. I make sure that no one is within the perimeter during the felling operation.

Communication

I communicate clearly with other members of the team. We use hand signals and two-way radios to coordinate our actions.

Emergency Plan

I have an emergency plan in place in case of an accident. This includes knowing the location of the nearest hospital and having a first aid kit on hand.

Avoiding Fatigue

Felling trees is physically demanding work, and it’s important to avoid fatigue. I take frequent breaks and stay hydrated.

Lessons Learned: I once witnessed a near-miss accident when a tree fell unexpectedly due to a combination of fatigue and poor communication. This experience reinforced the importance of following strict safety protocols.

Dealing with Hang-Ups: When Things Don’t Go According to Plan

Sometimes, despite all your planning and preparation, a tree will hang up in another tree instead of falling to the ground. This can be a dangerous situation, and it’s important to know how to deal with it safely.

Assessing the Situation

I carefully assess the situation before attempting to dislodge a hung-up tree. I look for any potential hazards, such as unstable branches or power lines.

Using Mechanical Advantage

I use mechanical advantage to dislodge the tree. This may involve using a rope and pulley system, a come-along, or a winch.

Avoiding Direct Contact

I never attempt to dislodge a hung-up tree by climbing the tree or by cutting the branches that are supporting it. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to serious injury.

Calling for Help

If I am unable to dislodge the tree safely, I call for help from a qualified arborist or tree service.

Expert Advice: I always advise against attempting to dislodge a hung-up tree alone. It’s best to have a team of experienced professionals on hand.

Post-Felling Operations: Cleaning Up and Assessing the Site

After the tree has been felled, there is still work to be done. I clean up the work site and assess the surrounding area for any damage.

Removing Debris

I remove all debris from the work site, including branches, leaves, and sawdust. I dispose of the debris in an environmentally responsible manner.

Assessing the Surrounding Area

I assess the surrounding area for any damage that may have been caused by the felling operation. This may include damage to fences, power lines, or other structures.

Repairing Damage

I repair any damage that was caused by the felling operation. This may involve repairing fences, replacing power lines, or planting new trees.

Monitoring the Remaining Trunk

If I have saved one of the trunks of a double-trunked tree, I monitor it closely for any signs of stress or disease. I prune any broken or damaged branches and apply a wound dressing to any cuts or abrasions.

Long-Term Care: I recommend that the homeowner have the remaining trunk inspected regularly by a qualified arborist to ensure its long-term health and stability.

Firewood Preparation: Turning Waste into Warmth

Once the tree is down, I often process the wood into firewood. This is a great way to make use of the tree and to provide a source of heat for the homeowner.

Bucking the Wood

I buck the wood into manageable lengths using a chainsaw. The length of the firewood will depend on the size of the wood stove or fireplace. I typically cut firewood into lengths of 16 to 18 inches.

Splitting the Wood

I split the wood using a maul or a log splitter. A maul is a heavy, wedge-shaped tool that is used to split wood by hand. A log splitter is a machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split wood.

Efficiency Tip: I use a log splitter for large quantities of wood, as it is much faster and less strenuous than splitting wood by hand.

Stacking the Wood

I stack the wood in a well-ventilated area to allow it to dry. The wood should be stacked off the ground to prevent it from rotting. I typically stack firewood in rows, with spaces between the rows to allow for air circulation.

Drying the Wood

I allow the wood to dry for at least six months before burning it. Properly dried firewood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke. I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning it. The moisture content should be below 20%.

Data Point: Studies have shown that burning properly dried firewood can reduce emissions by up to 50% compared to burning wet or green wood.

Advanced Techniques: Taking Your Skills to the Next Level

Once you have mastered the basic techniques of tree felling, you can start to explore more advanced techniques.

Using Ropes and Pulling Devices

Ropes and pulling devices, such as a come-along or a winch, can be used to control the direction of the fall of a tree. They are particularly useful when working in confined spaces or when the tree has a strong lean.

Using Felling Wedges

Felling wedges are used to lift the tree and help it fall in the desired direction. They are particularly useful when the tree has a strong lean or when working in confined spaces.

Using a Chainsaw Winch

A chainsaw winch is a portable winch that is powered by a chainsaw. It can be used to pull trees, logs, and other heavy objects.

Working with Dangerous Trees

Working with dangerous trees, such as those that are decayed, diseased, or damaged, requires specialized knowledge and skills. It’s best to leave this work to experienced professionals.

Ethical Consideration: I always prioritize safety over speed or profit. If I am not comfortable working with a particular tree, I will recommend that the homeowner hire a qualified arborist.

Legal Considerations: Knowing the Rules

Before felling any tree, it’s important to be aware of any legal restrictions or regulations that may apply.

Local Ordinances

Many municipalities have ordinances that regulate tree felling. These ordinances may require permits for felling certain types of trees or for felling trees in certain areas.

Property Lines

It’s important to know the location of your property lines before felling any trees. You do not want to accidentally fell a tree onto your neighbor’s property.

Easements

Easements are legal agreements that allow someone else to use your property for a specific purpose. There may be easements on your property that restrict tree felling.

Endangered Species

There may be endangered species of plants or animals that are protected by law. It’s important to be aware of these species before felling any trees.

Due Diligence: I always check with the local authorities and review any relevant legal documents before felling any trees.

The Future of Tree Felling: Embracing Technology and Sustainability

The field of tree felling is constantly evolving, with new technologies and techniques being developed all the time.

Drones

Drones are being used to inspect trees for decay, disease, and damage. They can also be used to assess the lean and weight distribution of trees.

Robotics

Robotics are being used to automate some of the tasks involved in tree felling, such as bucking and splitting wood.

Sustainable Forestry Practices

There is a growing emphasis on sustainable forestry practices. This includes planting new trees to replace those that are felled and using environmentally responsible logging techniques.