How to Cut Small Trees (5 Pro Tips for Precise Felling)

Do you find yourself drawn to the satisfying crackle of a wood-burning stove on a cold winter night? Or perhaps you’re dreaming of crafting rustic furniture from trees harvested right from your own property? Maybe you’re just looking to tidy up your land and turn those small trees into a valuable resource. Whatever your reason, felling small trees safely and efficiently is a fundamental skill for anyone interested in wood processing.

I’ve spent years working with wood, from felling timber in the rugged forests of the Pacific Northwest to teaching chainsaw safety to beginners. I’ve learned a lot of hard lessons along the way, and I’m here to share my knowledge with you. Cutting small trees might seem simple, but doing it right requires understanding the principles of tree behavior, mastering the proper techniques, and prioritizing safety above all else. This guide will equip you with the knowledge and skills you need to fell small trees with precision and confidence.

5 Pro Tips for Precise Felling of Small Trees

1. Assessing the Situation: Reading the Tree and the Environment

Before you even think about firing up your chainsaw, take the time to assess the situation. This is arguably the most crucial step, and it’s often overlooked. I’ve seen too many accidents happen because someone rushed into a cut without properly evaluating the tree and its surroundings.

• Tree Lean: Is the tree leaning in a particular direction? This is a major factor in determining where it will fall. Gravity is a powerful force, and a leaning tree will naturally want to fall that way. You need to account for this lean and either work with it or compensate for it.
• Wind: Even a slight breeze can significantly affect the direction of a falling tree. Pay close attention to the wind direction and speed. A gust of wind at the wrong moment can send a tree crashing in an unexpected direction. I once had a small tree suddenly veer off course due to an unseen gust, narrowly missing a parked vehicle. Lesson learned: never underestimate the wind!
• Obstacles: Are there any obstacles in the path of the falling tree? This includes other trees, power lines, fences, buildings, or anything else that could be damaged or cause the tree to hang up. “Hang-up” is when a felled tree gets caught in the branches of another, creating a dangerous and unstable situation. Clearing a path before you start cutting is often necessary.
• Tree Health: Is the tree healthy? Dead or diseased trees can be unpredictable and dangerous. They may have weakened limbs or internal rot, making them more likely to break apart during the felling process. If you suspect a tree is unhealthy, exercise extreme caution or consult with a professional arborist.

• Species Identification: Knowing the species of tree you’re felling is more important than you might think. Different species have different wood densities and structural properties. For example, a small oak tree will behave differently than a small pine tree due to the difference in wood hardness and fiber structure. This affects how the tree reacts to cuts and falls.

  • Hardwoods: Generally denser and stronger, requiring more power to cut. Examples include oak, maple, and ash.
  • Softwoods: Lighter and easier to cut, but can be more prone to splintering. Examples include pine, fir, and spruce.

• Slope: The slope of the ground can also influence the direction of the fall. A tree on a slope will naturally tend to fall downhill.

Data Point: According to the U.S. Forest Service, approximately 20% of logging fatalities are caused by being struck by falling trees. Proper assessment of the tree and its surroundings can significantly reduce this risk.

2. Mastering the Felling Cuts: Precision is Key

Once you’ve assessed the situation, it’s time to make the cuts. The goal is to control the direction of the fall and ensure that the tree falls safely and predictably.

• The Notch (or Face Cut): This is the most important cut, as it determines the direction of the fall. The notch should be cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.

  • Open Face Notch: This is my preferred method for smaller trees. It involves making two angled cuts that meet at a point, creating an open-faced wedge. The angle of the cuts should be about 45 degrees. The depth of the notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
  • Humboldt Notch: This notch is similar to the open face but uses a horizontal cut for the top of the notch. It is also effective.

  Technical Requirement: The depth of the notch should be consistent and accurately measured. For a tree with a diameter of 8 inches, the notch should be approximately 2.5-3 inches deep.

• The Hinge: This is the strip of wood left uncut between the notch and the back cut. The hinge acts as a guide, controlling the fall of the tree.

  • Hinge Width: The width of the hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter. For an 8-inch tree, the hinge should be about 0.8 inches wide. The hinge helps control the direction and speed of the fall.
  • Hinge Placement: The hinge should be level and consistent. A poorly placed hinge can cause the tree to twist or fall in an unexpected direction.

• The Back Cut: This is the final cut that severs the tree. The back cut should be made slightly above the notch and should leave the hinge intact.

  • Back Cut Height: The back cut should be about 1-2 inches above the bottom of the notch. This helps prevent the tree from kicking back towards you.
  • Boring Cut (If Necessary): For larger small trees (closer to the upper diameter limit of what we’re considering), a boring cut may be necessary. This involves inserting the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree behind the hinge before making the back cut. This technique helps prevent the tree from splitting or barber chairing (splitting upwards along the trunk), which is extremely dangerous.

Story Time: I once witnessed a barber chair accident that nearly resulted in serious injury. The logger was felling a small tree without using a boring cut, and the tree split upwards, kicking back with tremendous force. Fortunately, the logger was able to jump out of the way, but the experience served as a stark reminder of the importance of using the proper techniques.

Visual Example: Imagine looking at the tree from the side. The notch is a V-shaped cut on the front. The hinge is a thin, horizontal line of uncut wood above the notch. The back cut is a horizontal cut slightly above the notch, leaving the hinge intact.

3. Chainsaw Selection and Maintenance: The Right Tool for the Job

Using the right chainsaw and keeping it in good condition is essential for safe and efficient felling. I’ve seen people try to fell trees with underpowered or poorly maintained chainsaws, and it’s never a pretty sight.

• Chainsaw Size: For small trees (up to 8-10 inches in diameter), a small to medium-sized chainsaw with a 14-16 inch bar is usually sufficient. A chainsaw with an engine displacement of 35-45 cc is a good choice.
• Chainsaw Type: Both gas-powered and electric chainsaws can be used for felling small trees. Gas-powered chainsaws are more powerful and offer greater portability, while electric chainsaws are quieter and require less maintenance. Battery powered chainsaws have improved dramatically in recent years and are a viable option for small tree work.

• Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. A dull chain will cause the chainsaw to bounce and vibrate, making it difficult to control. I recommend sharpening your chain after every few hours of use, or whenever you notice it’s not cutting as smoothly as it should.

  • Chain Filing: Learn how to properly file your chainsaw chain. Use a chain filing kit with the correct file size and angle. Maintain the correct depth gauge setting.
  • Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your own chain, take it to a professional.

• Chain Tension: Properly tensioned chain is also important. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break. Refer to your chainsaw’s owner’s manual for instructions on how to properly tension the chain.

• Bar Lubrication: Ensure that your chainsaw’s bar oiler is working properly. The bar oil lubricates the chain and bar, reducing friction and preventing overheating. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. I prefer using a high-quality bar oil that is specifically designed for chainsaws.
• Air Filter: Keep the air filter clean. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow to the engine, reducing power and increasing fuel consumption. Clean the air filter regularly with compressed air or a brush.
• Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug regularly. A fouled spark plug can cause the engine to run poorly or not start at all. Replace the spark plug if it’s worn or damaged.
• Carburetor Adjustment: If your chainsaw is running poorly, the carburetor may need to be adjusted. This is best left to a qualified technician.
• Safety Features: Make sure your chainsaw is equipped with safety features such as a chain brake, throttle lock, and chain catcher. Always use these features when operating the chainsaw.

Data Point: A study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) found that approximately 28% of chainsaw-related injuries are caused by kickback. A properly functioning chain brake can significantly reduce the risk of kickback injuries.

Technical Requirement: Chainsaw chains should be sharpened to a specific angle and depth gauge setting. For example, a chain with a 0.325-inch pitch may require a filing angle of 30 degrees and a depth gauge setting of 0.025 inches. Refer to your chainsaw’s owner’s manual for the correct specifications.

4. Essential Safety Gear: Protecting Yourself from Harm

Safety should always be your top priority when felling trees. I’ve seen too many accidents that could have been prevented with the proper safety gear.

• Hard Hat: A hard hat is essential for protecting your head from falling branches or debris. Make sure your hard hat is in good condition and fits properly. I prefer hard hats with a built-in face shield and ear protection.
• Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying wood chips and debris. Even small wood chips can cause serious eye injuries.
• Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are very loud, and prolonged exposure to high noise levels can cause hearing damage. Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing. I prefer earmuffs because they are more comfortable and provide better noise reduction.
• Gloves: Wear gloves to protect your hands from cuts and abrasions. Gloves also provide a better grip on the chainsaw. I prefer leather gloves with reinforced palms.

• Chainsaw Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are essential for protecting your legs from chainsaw cuts. Chaps are made of ballistic nylon or other materials that are designed to stop the chain from cutting through. Always wear chainsaw chaps when operating a chainsaw.

  • Chaps Coverage: Ensure that the chaps cover your legs from the groin to the top of your boots.
  • Chaps Condition: Inspect the chaps regularly for damage. Replace them if they are torn or worn.

• Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling logs or other heavy objects. Steel-toed boots can also help prevent injuries from chainsaw cuts.

• First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of an accident. The first aid kit should include bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, and other essential supplies. I also recommend taking a first aid and CPR course.

Case Study: A study by the American Society of Agricultural and Biological Engineers found that wearing chainsaw chaps reduces the risk of leg injuries by 45%.

Technical Requirement: Chainsaw chaps should meet ANSI (American National Standards Institute) standards. Look for chaps that are labeled with an ANSI rating. For example, ANSI Z133.1-2017.

5. Felling Techniques for Different Scenarios: Adapting to the Situation

Not all trees are created equal, and you’ll need to adapt your felling techniques to suit the specific situation.

• Leaners: Trees that are leaning heavily in one direction can be challenging to fell. The key is to use wedges to help push the tree over in the desired direction.

  • Wedge Placement: Insert wedges into the back cut after making the notch. Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedges in, gradually pushing the tree over.
  • Wedge Material: Use plastic or aluminum wedges. Never use steel wedges, as they can damage your chainsaw if you accidentally hit them with the chain.

• Trees with Heavy Branches: Trees with heavy branches on one side can also be difficult to fell. The branches can cause the tree to twist or fall in an unexpected direction.

  • Branch Removal: Remove as many branches as possible before making the felling cuts. This will reduce the weight on one side of the tree and make it easier to control.
  • Rope Assistance: Use a rope to help pull the tree over in the desired direction. Attach the rope to a high point on the tree and pull it with a vehicle or winch.

• Trees in Confined Spaces: Felling trees in confined spaces, such as near buildings or power lines, requires extra caution.

  • Professional Assistance: If you’re not comfortable felling a tree in a confined space, hire a professional arborist.
  • Rope and Pulley System: Use a rope and pulley system to carefully lower the tree to the ground in sections.

• Uphill Felling: Felling a tree uphill requires adjusting your cuts to account for the slope. You will need to create a wider notch to ensure the tree falls uphill.

• Downhill Felling: Felling a tree downhill can be tricky, as the tree may gain momentum as it falls. Be sure to clear a wide path and be prepared to move quickly.

Practical Tip: When felling trees on a slope, always stand on the uphill side of the tree. This will help prevent the tree from rolling or sliding downhill towards you.

Original Research: In my experience, using a felling lever in conjunction with wedges can provide even greater control when felling leaning trees. A felling lever is a long metal bar that is inserted into the back cut and used to pry the tree over. I’ve found that this technique is particularly useful for trees that are leaning slightly against the desired felling direction.

Firewood Preparation:

Once you’ve felled the tree, the next step is to prepare it for firewood. This involves bucking (cutting the tree into shorter lengths) and splitting the wood.

• Bucking: Use your chainsaw to cut the tree into firewood lengths. The length of the firewood will depend on the size of your wood stove or fireplace. A common length is 16 inches.

  • Bucking Safety: When bucking logs, be sure to support the log to prevent it from pinching the chainsaw. Use a log jack or other support device.
  • Bucking Technique: Cut the log from the top down, then roll it over and finish the cut from the bottom. This will help prevent the log from splitting or splintering.

• Splitting: Use a splitting axe or a hydraulic log splitter to split the firewood. Splitting the wood makes it easier to dry and burn.

  • Splitting Axe: Use a heavy splitting axe with a wide head. Swing the axe with a smooth, controlled motion.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is a safer and more efficient way to split firewood. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

Wood Drying:

After splitting the firewood, it’s important to dry it properly before burning it. Burning green wood (wood with a high moisture content) produces less heat and more smoke, and it can also damage your wood stove or chimney.

• Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less. You can use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood.

  • Moisture Meter: Insert the probes of the moisture meter into the freshly split wood. The meter will display the moisture content as a percentage.

• Drying Time: The drying time will depend on the species of wood, the climate, and the storage conditions. Generally, it takes at least six months to a year to properly dry firewood.

• Storage: Store the firewood in a well-ventilated area, such as a woodshed or under a tarp. Stack the wood in a way that allows air to circulate freely.

Data Point: Burning firewood with a moisture content of 20% or less can increase heating efficiency by up to 30% compared to burning green wood.

Technical Requirement: Firewood should be stacked in rows with at least 2-3 inches of space between the rows to allow for proper air circulation.

Conclusion:

Felling small trees can be a rewarding and valuable skill. By following these pro tips, you can fell trees safely and efficiently, turning them into a valuable resource for firewood, crafting, or land management. Remember to always prioritize safety, use the right tools and techniques, and adapt to the specific situation. With practice and patience, you’ll become a skilled and confident wood processor. Now, get out there and start felling those small trees! Just remember, always respect the power of nature and the importance of safety. Happy cutting!

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