How To Cut Down Small Trees (5 Expert Tips For Safe Felling)

Every year, over 100 people in the United States alone die from chainsaw-related accidents, highlighting the critical importance of safe felling practices. I’ve spent over 20 years in the woods, from small-scale firewood operations to assisting in larger timber harvests. I’ve witnessed firsthand the consequences of improper technique and a lack of respect for the power of a chainsaw. In this guide, I’ll share five expert tips for safely felling small trees, drawing on my experiences and the best practices in the industry. These tips aren’t just about cutting down trees; they’re about ensuring you go home safe at the end of the day.

How to Cut Down Small Trees: 5 Expert Tips for Safe Felling

This guide is designed for anyone looking to safely and effectively fell small trees, whether for firewood, property management, or other purposes. We’ll cover essential safety precautions, proper tool selection, and proven techniques to minimize risk and maximize success.

1. Prioritize Safety: Gear Up and Assess Your Surroundings

Safety is paramount. Before even thinking about starting your chainsaw, I always take the time to ensure I’m properly equipped and have thoroughly assessed the environment. I’ve seen too many near misses caused by rushing into a job without proper preparation.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This is non-negotiable. At a minimum, you need:
- Chainsaw-rated helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and kickback.
- Eye protection: Safety glasses or a face shield are essential to prevent wood chips and debris from entering your eyes.
- Hearing protection: Chainsaws are loud! Earplugs or earmuffs prevent long-term hearing damage. I prefer earmuffs with built-in Bluetooth for communication and music (at a safe volume, of course!).
- Chainsaw chaps: These are crucial for protecting your legs from accidental chainsaw contact. I recommend full-wrap chaps for maximum coverage.
- Gloves: Provide grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Steel-toed boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and potential chainsaw mishaps.
Environmental Assessment: Before felling any tree, take a good look around. Consider:
- Lean: Which way is the tree naturally leaning? This will influence its natural falling direction.
- Wind: Wind can significantly alter the tree’s trajectory. Never fell trees in high winds.
- Obstacles: Are there any power lines, buildings, fences, or other obstructions in the potential falling zone?
- Escape routes: Identify and clear two escape routes at 45-degree angles away from the anticipated direction of the fall. These should be clear of debris and obstacles.
- Other people: Ensure no one is within twice the tree’s height of the felling area. This is your “danger zone.”
Tool Inspection: A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe chainsaw. Before each use, I check:
- Chain sharpness: A dull chain requires more force and increases the risk of kickback.
- Chain tension: Proper tension ensures the chain doesn’t derail.
- Bar lubrication: A properly lubricated bar reduces friction and wear.
- Throttle and safety mechanisms: Ensure the throttle operates smoothly and the chain brake engages properly.
- Fuel and oil levels: Make sure you have enough fuel and bar oil for the job.

Personal Anecdote: I once witnessed a colleague who skipped wearing chaps for a “quick” felling job. He slipped, and the chainsaw grazed his leg. Luckily, it was a minor cut, but it served as a stark reminder that complacency can lead to serious injury. Always wear your PPE, no matter how small the job seems.

2. Choose the Right Chainsaw for the Job

Selecting the right chainsaw is crucial for safety and efficiency. Using a chainsaw that’s too large or too small for the task can increase the risk of accidents.

Chainsaw Size and Power: For small trees (up to 8-10 inches in diameter), a lightweight chainsaw with a 14-16 inch bar is usually sufficient. For trees between 10-16 inches in diameter, consider a more powerful saw with an 18-20 inch bar. I personally use a Stihl MS 251 for smaller trees and an MS 271 Farm Boss for slightly larger ones. The MS 251 is lightweight and easy to maneuver, while the MS 271 provides more power for tougher wood.
Electric vs. Gas Chainsaws: Electric chainsaws are quieter and require less maintenance than gas-powered models. They’re also more environmentally friendly. However, they typically lack the power and run time of gas chainsaws. For occasional use and small jobs, an electric chainsaw can be a good option. Gas chainsaws are better suited for larger jobs and more frequent use.
Chainsaw Features: Look for chainsaws with features like:
- Chain brake: A safety mechanism that stops the chain immediately in case of kickback.
- Anti-vibration system: Reduces fatigue and improves control.
- Easy start system: Makes starting the chainsaw easier and reduces strain.
- Inertia-activated chain brake: Engages the chain brake automatically in case of sudden movement.

Data and Insights: According to a study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), chainsaw accidents are more common among inexperienced users. Choosing a chainsaw that is appropriately sized and equipped with safety features can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

Case Study: A local tree service company I consulted with switched from using heavy, professional-grade chainsaws for all jobs to using smaller, lighter chainsaws for smaller trees. This resulted in a significant reduction in operator fatigue and a decrease in minor injuries.

3. Master the Felling Cuts: Notch, Hinge, and Back Cut

The felling cut is the heart of the operation. Making these cuts correctly is essential for controlling the direction of the fall and preventing hazards like barber chairs (when the tree splits upwards).

The Notch (Undercut): The notch determines the direction of the fall. It should be cut on the side of the tree facing the desired falling direction.
- Open Face Notch: This is the most common type of notch. It consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut at a 90-degree angle to the tree, and a sloping cut that meets the horizontal cut at a 45-degree angle. The depth of the notch should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Humboldt Notch: Similar to the open face notch, but the sloping cut is made from the bottom up. This notch is often used for trees with a significant lean.
- Kerf Width: Ensure the notch is wide enough to allow the tree to fall freely without pinching the saw.
The Hinge: The hinge is a strip of uncut wood left between the notch and the back cut. It controls the speed and direction of the fall.
- Hinge Size: The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter. A larger hinge will slow the fall, while a smaller hinge will allow the tree to fall more quickly.
- Hinge Placement: The hinge should be of uniform thickness and located directly behind the point of the notch.
The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch.
- Leaving the Hinge: It’s crucial to leave the hinge intact. Never cut completely through the tree.
- Avoiding Barber Chairs: To prevent barber chairs, use wedges to keep the tree from settling back on the saw and splitting upwards.
- Bore Cutting (Optional): For larger trees, a bore cut can be used to create the hinge before making the back cut. This involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree to create a cavity, then carefully cutting out the hinge.

Step-by-Step Guide to Felling Cuts:

Clear the area around the tree: Remove any debris or obstacles that could impede your movement.
Position yourself: Stand to the side of the tree, with your feet firmly planted.
Make the horizontal cut of the notch: Use a smooth, controlled motion.
Make the sloping cut of the notch: Meet the horizontal cut at the desired angle.
Inspect the notch: Ensure it’s clean and free of debris.
Insert wedges (if necessary): Place wedges in the notch to prevent the tree from settling back on the saw.
Make the back cut: Cut towards the notch, leaving the hinge intact.
Monitor the tree: As you make the back cut, watch for signs that the tree is beginning to fall.
Retreat along your escape route: Once the tree starts to fall, move quickly and safely away from the felling area.

Personal Anecdote: I once made a back cut too high, resulting in the tree falling in an unexpected direction. Thankfully, no one was hurt, but it taught me a valuable lesson about the importance of precise cuts.

4. Use Wedges and Felling Levers for Control

Sometimes, even with perfect cuts, a tree might hesitate to fall in the desired direction. This is where wedges and felling levers come in handy.

Wedges: Wedges are used to prevent the tree from settling back on the saw and to help push the tree over in the desired direction.
- Types of Wedges: Plastic wedges are lightweight and won’t damage the chainsaw chain if accidentally contacted. Metal wedges are more durable but can damage the chain.
- Wedge Placement: Insert wedges into the back cut after making the initial cut. Drive them in with a hammer or axe to gradually push the tree over.
- Multiple Wedges: For larger trees, you may need to use multiple wedges to achieve the desired effect.
Felling Levers: Felling levers are long, metal bars that are used to apply leverage to the tree and help push it over.
- Using a Felling Lever: Insert the felling lever into the back cut and use your body weight to apply pressure.
- Leverage: The longer the lever, the more leverage you can apply.
- Combined Use: Wedges and felling levers can be used together to provide maximum control over the felling process.

Original Insights: I’ve found that using a combination of wedges and a felling lever is particularly effective for trees with a slight back lean. The wedges prevent the tree from settling back, while the lever provides the necessary force to overcome the lean.

Case Study: A small logging operation I advised was struggling to fell trees in a dense forest with limited space. By implementing the use of wedges and felling levers, they were able to safely and efficiently fell trees in tight quarters, minimizing the risk of damage to surrounding trees.

5. Dealing with Hung-Up Trees: Prevention and Solutions

A hung-up tree is a tree that doesn’t fall completely and is caught in the branches of another tree. This is a dangerous situation that requires careful handling.

Prevention: The best way to deal with hung-up trees is to prevent them from happening in the first place.
- Proper Felling Techniques: Ensure you’re using proper felling techniques, including making accurate cuts and using wedges.
- Assessing the Tree: Carefully assess the tree’s lean and the surrounding environment before making any cuts.
- Clearing Obstacles: Clear any obstacles that could prevent the tree from falling freely.
Solutions: If a tree does get hung up, here are some safe methods to dislodge it:
- Mechanical Advantage:
  - Peavey or Cant Hook: Use a peavey or cant hook to roll the hung-up tree off the supporting tree. Apply force from the uphill side.
  - Winches and Pulling Systems: Attach a winch or pulling system to the hung-up tree and pull it down. Use a snatch block to change the direction of pull if necessary. Ensure the pulling force is applied in a controlled manner.
  - Tractor or Skidder: If available, a tractor or skidder can be used to pull the hung-up tree down. Use a chain or cable to connect the tractor to the tree.
- Cautionary Notes:
  - Never climb a hung-up tree: This is extremely dangerous. The tree could shift or fall at any moment.
  - Never cut the supporting tree: This could cause the hung-up tree to fall unexpectedly.
  - Work with a partner: Always have someone else present to assist you and to watch for hazards.
  - Clear the area: Keep everyone clear of the area around the hung-up tree.
  - Assess Wind Conditions: Be aware of wind conditions, as a gust of wind can cause the hung-up tree to fall unexpectedly.
  - Use Appropriate Equipment: Make sure that the equipment you are using is rated for the weight of the tree and that you know how to use it safely.

Personal Anecdote: I once spent an entire afternoon trying to dislodge a hung-up tree using a come-along winch. It was a frustrating experience, but I learned the importance of patience and persistence. I also realized the value of having the right tools for the job.

Original Insights: I’ve found that using a combination of a peavey and a come-along winch is often the most effective way to dislodge a hung-up tree. The peavey is used to roll the tree slightly, while the winch provides the pulling force to bring it down.

Key Terms Defined:

Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It’s heavier and harder to split than seasoned wood.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content. It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns more efficiently.
Kickback: A sudden and dangerous upward or backward movement of the chainsaw bar, caused by the chain catching on the wood.
Barber Chair: A dangerous situation where the tree splits upwards during the felling process, creating a hinge that can cause the tree to fall unpredictably.
Hinge: The strip of uncut wood left between the notch and the back cut, which controls the speed and direction of the fall.
Notch (Undercut): A wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree facing the desired falling direction.
Back Cut: The final cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, leaving the hinge intact.

Tool Specifications and Measurements:

Chainsaw Bar Length: 14-20 inches (depending on tree size)
Wedge Angle: 10-15 degrees
Hinge Thickness: 1/10 of the tree’s diameter
Notch Depth: 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter
Escape Route Angle: 45 degrees away from the anticipated direction of the fall

Wood Type Selection:

Hardwoods: Oak, maple, ash, birch. These woods are dense, burn hot, and produce long-lasting coals. Ideal for heating homes.
Softwoods: Pine, fir, spruce. These woods are less dense, burn quickly, and produce less heat. Good for starting fires.
Moisture Content Targets: For optimal burning, firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less. Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your wood.

Drying Methods:

Air Drying: The most common method. Stack the wood in a sunny, well-ventilated area. Allow at least 6-12 months for drying.
Kiln Drying: A faster method that uses heat to dry the wood. Firewood can be dried in a kiln in a matter of days.

Cost Estimates:

Chainsaw: $200-$1000 (depending on size and features)
PPE: $100-$300
Wedges: $10-$30
Felling Lever: $50-$100
Moisture Meter: $20-$50

Skill Levels Required:

Beginner: Basic chainsaw operation, felling small trees with simple techniques.
Intermediate: Advanced felling techniques, using wedges and felling levers, dealing with hung-up trees.
Expert: Professional logging, felling large and complex trees, using specialized equipment.

Strategic Advantages of Each Method and Tool:

Hydraulic Log Splitter: Increases efficiency and reduces physical strain compared to manual splitting.
Chainsaw with Sharp Chain: Improves cutting speed and reduces the risk of kickback.
Properly Stacked Firewood: Promotes air circulation and faster drying.
Using a Moisture Meter: Ensures firewood is dry enough for efficient burning.

Practical Next Steps and Implementation Guidance:

Start Small: Begin by felling small, easily accessible trees.
Practice Makes Perfect: Practice your felling cuts on smaller logs before attempting to fell larger trees.
Seek Training: Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.
Join a Community: Connect with other woodworkers and loggers to share knowledge and experiences.
Stay Informed: Keep up-to-date on the latest safety standards and best practices.

Conclusion:

Felling small trees safely requires a combination of knowledge, skill, and respect for the power of the chainsaw. By following these five expert tips, you can minimize the risk of accidents and ensure a successful outcome. Remember, safety is always the top priority. Take your time, assess the situation carefully, and never hesitate to ask for help if you’re unsure about anything. With practice and patience, you can become a confident and competent tree feller.

How to Cut Down Small Trees (5 Expert Tips for Safe Felling)