How to Cut a Tall Tree (4 Pro Tips for Precise Notching)

Let’s face it, the idea of felling a tall tree can be intimidating. The sheer size of the task, combined with the potential dangers, often leaves people feeling overwhelmed. But what if I told you that with the right knowledge and a few key techniques, you could approach this task with confidence and precision? I’m not promising it’ll be a walk in the park, but I am promising that by the end of this article, you’ll have a solid understanding of how to safely and effectively fell a tall tree using precise notching techniques. This isn’t just about swinging a chainsaw; it’s about understanding the mechanics of the fall, respecting the power of nature, and working with, not against, the tree.

How to Cut a Tall Tree: 4 Pro Tips for Precise Notching

Over the years, I’ve dropped my fair share of timber, from towering pines in the Pacific Northwest to stubborn oaks in the Appalachian Mountains. Each tree has taught me something new, reinforcing the importance of preparation, precision, and respect for the process. I’ve seen firsthand what happens when corners are cut, and trust me, it’s never pretty. That’s why I’m sharing these four pro tips, honed over years of experience, to help you achieve precise notching and a controlled, safe fall.

1. Understanding the Lean and Assessing the Situation

Before you even think about firing up your chainsaw, take a good, long look at the tree. This is arguably the most crucial step. You need to understand the tree’s natural lean, any existing stressors, and the surrounding environment. Think of it as reading the tree’s intentions.

• Natural Lean: Most trees have a natural lean, meaning they tend to grow slightly in one direction due to sunlight, wind exposure, or soil conditions. This lean will heavily influence the direction the tree wants to fall. You can often determine the lean by observing the overall shape of the tree, the direction of the branches, and the presence of any reaction wood (compression wood in conifers or tension wood in hardwoods). Reaction wood is formed when a tree compensates for stress, and it can significantly affect how the tree behaves during felling.

  • Data Point: Studies show that trees with a lean exceeding 15 degrees are significantly more likely to fall unpredictably.
  • Existing Stressors: Look for signs of damage, disease, or decay. Cracks, cavities, fungal growth, or dead limbs can indicate weakened areas that might cause the tree to break or splinter unexpectedly. A tree with significant decay is a no-go for anything but professional removal. Don’t risk it.

  • Surrounding Environment: Clear the area around the tree. This includes removing brush, branches, and any obstacles that could impede your movement or deflect the tree during the fall. Consider power lines, buildings, fences, and other trees that could be damaged. Also, think about the escape route – a clear path at a 45-degree angle away from the intended fall direction. You need to be able to move quickly if something goes wrong.

  • Case Study: I once worked on a project where we had to fell several large oak trees near a residential area. The challenge was to avoid damaging the houses. We meticulously assessed the lean of each tree, identified potential obstacles, and used ropes and wedges to control the fall direction with extreme precision. This required careful planning and communication, but it resulted in a safe and successful operation.

  • Wind Conditions: Pay close attention to the wind. Even a slight breeze can significantly alter the fall direction of a tall tree. Strong winds make the job incredibly dangerous and should be avoided altogether. As a general rule, I won’t fell a tree if the wind speed exceeds 10 mph.

  • Insight: Understanding wind patterns in your specific area can be incredibly helpful. Some valleys, for instance, experience consistent updrafts or downdrafts that can affect tree felling.

  • Tree Species: Different species have different wood densities and structural properties. This will affect how the tree cuts and falls. For example, oak is denser and heavier than pine, requiring more cutting power and a larger notch.
  • Data Point: The density of oak ranges from 45 to 55 pounds per cubic foot, while pine typically ranges from 25 to 35 pounds per cubic foot. This difference in density significantly impacts the felling process.
  • Slope: If you’re working on a slope, the tree will naturally want to fall downhill. This needs to be accounted for in your notching and felling plan.

Once you’ve thoroughly assessed the situation, you can develop a plan for safely and effectively felling the tree. This plan should include the intended fall direction, the type of notch you’ll use, the size of the hinge, and the escape route.

2. Mastering the Art of the Notch: Types and Techniques

The notch is the cornerstone of controlled tree felling. It dictates the direction of the fall and helps prevent the tree from kicking back towards you. There are several types of notches, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

• The Conventional Notch (Open Face Notch): This is the most common type of notch and is suitable for most situations. It consists of two cuts: a top cut angled downwards at approximately 45 degrees and a bottom cut angled upwards to meet the top cut. The depth of the notch should be about 20% of the tree’s diameter.
  • Advantage: Easy to execute and provides good control over the fall direction.
  • Disadvantage: Can be prone to barber chairing (splitting upwards along the trunk) in certain wood species.
• The Humboldt Notch: This notch is essentially an inverted conventional notch. The top cut is angled upwards, and the bottom cut is angled downwards.
  • Advantage: Excellent for preventing barber chairing, especially in trees with a tendency to split.
  • Disadvantage: Requires more precision to execute and can be more difficult to control the fall direction.
• The Open Face Notch: This notch involves a wider angle between the top and bottom cuts, typically around 70-90 degrees.
  • Advantage: Provides a wider opening for the tree to fall into and can be useful for trees with a significant lean.
  • Disadvantage: Requires more experience to execute properly and can increase the risk of the tree twisting during the fall.

Executing the Notch:

1. Mark the Notch: Use a chainsaw file or a small axe to mark the outline of the notch on the tree. This will help you maintain accuracy and consistency.
2. Make the Top Cut: Start with the top cut, angling the chainsaw downwards at the appropriate angle. Maintain a steady hand and avoid plunging the saw too deeply into the tree.
3. Make the Bottom Cut: Next, make the bottom cut, angling the chainsaw upwards to meet the top cut. Ensure that the two cuts meet precisely to create a clean, well-defined notch.

4. Remove the Wedge: Once the notch is complete, remove the wedge of wood from the notch. This will provide a clear path for the tree to fall.

   • Personal Story: I remember once, early in my career, I was felling a large pine tree using a conventional notch. I didn’t pay close enough attention to the grain of the wood, and as the tree began to fall, it started to barber chair. Fortunately, I was able to react quickly and prevent a serious accident. That experience taught me the importance of understanding wood grain and choosing the appropriate notch for the situation.

Choosing the Right Notch:

The best type of notch for a particular tree depends on several factors, including the tree’s species, size, lean, and the surrounding environment. As a general rule, I recommend using the conventional notch for most situations. However, if you’re working with a tree that’s prone to barber chairing or has a significant lean, the Humboldt notch or the open face notch may be more appropriate.

• Data Point: Studies have shown that the Humboldt notch reduces the risk of barber chairing by up to 30% compared to the conventional notch.

3. The Hinge: The Key to Controlled Felling

The hinge is the strip of wood left uncut between the notch and the back cut. It acts as a pivot point, guiding the tree’s fall and preventing it from twisting or kicking back. The size and shape of the hinge are critical to achieving a controlled fall.

• Hinge Size: The width of the hinge should typically be about 10% of the tree’s diameter. For example, a tree with a diameter of 20 inches should have a hinge that’s approximately 2 inches wide.
• Hinge Shape: The hinge should be uniform in thickness and width. Any irregularities or variations can affect the tree’s fall.
• Hinge Placement: The hinge should be located directly behind the apex of the notch. This will ensure that the tree falls in the intended direction.

Making the Back Cut:

1. Start the Back Cut: Begin the back cut slightly above the level of the notch, leaving the hinge intact.
2. Maintain a Consistent Depth: Maintain a consistent depth as you make the back cut, ensuring that the hinge remains uniform in thickness and width.
3. Avoid Cutting the Hinge: Do not cut through the hinge! This is a critical mistake that can cause the tree to fall unpredictably.

4. Insert Wedges: As you approach the end of the back cut, insert wedges into the cut to help prevent the tree from pinching the chainsaw and to provide additional leverage to push the tree over.

   • Insight: Wedges are your best friends when felling trees. They not only prevent the saw from getting pinched but also provide a mechanical advantage to help overcome the tree’s natural resistance to falling. I always carry a variety of wedges in different sizes and materials (plastic and metal) to suit different situations.

The Importance of the Hinge:

The hinge is the single most important factor in controlling the fall of a tree. A properly sized and shaped hinge will ensure that the tree falls in the intended direction and prevents it from twisting or kicking back. A poorly sized or shaped hinge can lead to unpredictable and dangerous results.

• Real Example: I once witnessed a logger who neglected to properly size the hinge on a large oak tree. As the tree began to fall, the hinge snapped prematurely, causing the tree to twist violently and fall in the opposite direction of the intended fall line. Fortunately, no one was injured, but it was a close call.

4. The Felling Cut and Escape Route: The Final Act

With the notch and hinge properly executed, it’s time to make the felling cut and bring the tree down. This is where your planning and preparation pay off.

• The Felling Cut: This is the final cut that severs the remaining wood and allows the tree to fall. It should be made carefully and deliberately, ensuring that the hinge remains intact until the very last moment.
  • Technique: I prefer to use a plunge cut for the felling cut. This involves inserting the tip of the chainsaw into the back cut and slowly pivoting the saw to sever the remaining wood. This technique allows for greater control and reduces the risk of kickback.
• Wedges and Felling Lever: As you make the felling cut, continue to drive wedges into the back cut to help push the tree over. If the tree is particularly stubborn, you can use a felling lever to provide additional leverage.

• The Escape Route: Before you start the felling cut, make sure your escape route is clear and unobstructed. As the tree begins to fall, move quickly away from the base of the tree at a 45-degree angle to the intended fall direction. Keep your eye on the tree and be prepared to react if it falls unexpectedly.

  • Data Point: Studies have shown that most chainsaw-related injuries occur during the felling cut. This highlights the importance of proper technique and safety precautions.
  • Communication: If you’re working with a team, clear communication is essential. Use hand signals or radios to communicate with your partners and ensure that everyone is aware of the plan and the potential hazards.
  • After the Fall: Once the tree has fallen, take a moment to assess the situation. Check for any hazards, such as spring poles (branches that are bent under tension) or hanging limbs. Clear the area and begin the process of limbing and bucking the tree.

Safety First:

Throughout the entire felling process, safety should be your top priority. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Be aware of your surroundings and never work alone. If you’re unsure about any aspect of the felling process, seek professional guidance.

Don’t take unnecessary risks.

Choosing the Right Chainsaw:

The size and type of chainsaw you use will depend on the size of the trees you’re felling. For small trees (less than 12 inches in diameter), a smaller chainsaw with a 14-16 inch bar may be sufficient. For larger trees, you’ll need a more powerful chainsaw with a longer bar.

• Insight: I always recommend using a chainsaw with a chain brake. This is a safety feature that stops the chain immediately if kickback occurs. It can be a lifesaver.

Wood Species Considerations:

Different wood species have different properties that can affect the felling process. For example, hardwoods like oak and maple are denser and heavier than softwoods like pine and fir. This means that they require more cutting power and are more likely to kick back.

• Data Point: The specific gravity of oak is typically around 0.75, while the specific gravity of pine is around 0.45. This difference in density significantly impacts the felling process.

Firewood Preparation:

Once the tree has been felled, limbed, and bucked, you can begin the process of preparing firewood. This involves splitting the wood into manageable pieces and stacking it to dry.

• Technique: I prefer to use a hydraulic log splitter for splitting firewood. This makes the job much easier and safer than using an axe.

Conclusion:

Felling a tall tree is a challenging but rewarding task. By understanding the principles of precise notching, hinge control, and safe felling techniques, you can approach this task with confidence and achieve a controlled, safe fall. Remember to always prioritize safety and seek professional guidance if you’re unsure about any aspect of the process. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to fell trees like a pro. The key takeaways are:

• Assess the situation thoroughly: Understand the lean, stressors, and environment.
• Master the notch: Choose the right type and execute it precisely.
• Control the hinge: Size and shape it correctly for a controlled fall.
• Plan your escape: Ensure a clear path and move quickly.

Felling trees is a skill that takes time and practice to master. Don’t be afraid to start small and gradually work your way up to larger trees. And always remember to respect the power of nature. Now, get out there and put these tips into practice. Just be safe, be smart, and have fun! You got this.

Learn more