How Much Wood Is in a Rank? (5 Key Firewood Terms)
In the world of firewood, getting the best bang for your buck is crucial. It’s not just about warmth; it’s about efficiency, storage, and understanding exactly what you’re paying for. This guide will break down the essential firewood terms, with a special focus on “rank,” to ensure you’re a savvy firewood consumer. I’ll share my experiences from years of splitting, stacking, and burning wood, along with the technical details you need to know.
Understanding Firewood Measurements: 5 Key Terms
Navigating the world of firewood can feel like learning a new language. Here’s a breakdown of the key terms you’ll encounter, with a focus on how they relate to value and practical application.
1. The Cord: The Gold Standard
The cord is the granddaddy of firewood measurements. It’s the most common unit used for large-scale firewood sales.
- Definition: A cord is a precisely stacked pile of wood measuring 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. This equates to 128 cubic feet of wood, including air space between the pieces.
- Practical Implications: When buying a cord, make sure the wood is neatly stacked to these dimensions. A loosely thrown pile might look large, but it won’t contain the full 128 cubic feet.
- My Experience: I once bought what was advertised as a “cord” of firewood, only to find it was short when I stacked it myself. Lesson learned: always visually inspect and, if possible, measure the stack before accepting delivery.
- Technical Detail: The actual amount of solid wood in a cord varies depending on the straightness and diameter of the logs. Expect around 60-80 cubic feet of solid wood in a cord.
2. The Face Cord (or Rick or Run): A Source of Confusion
This is where things can get tricky. A face cord, also known as a rick or run, is often advertised as a fraction of a cord. However, the length of the wood pieces determines the actual volume.
- Definition: A face cord is 4 feet high and 8 feet wide, but the depth (or length of the wood pieces) can vary. Common lengths are 12 inches, 16 inches, or 24 inches.
- Practical Implications: A face cord is not a standard unit. A face cord of 16-inch wood is one-third of a cord, while a face cord of 12-inch wood is only one-quarter of a cord. Always clarify the length of the wood when purchasing a face cord.
- My Insight: I’ve seen many people unknowingly overpay for face cords because they assume it’s a fixed amount of wood. Ask for the dimensions explicitly!
- Technical Calculation: To calculate the volume of a face cord in cubic feet, multiply the height (4 ft) by the width (8 ft) by the length of the wood (in feet). For example, a face cord of 16-inch wood is 4 ft x 8 ft x (16/12 ft) = 42.67 cubic feet.
3. The Rank: A Regional Variation
The “rank” is a term I’ve heard used mostly in specific regions, particularly in the Midwestern United States, to describe a stack of firewood. Its meaning can vary, so it’s crucial to clarify what it means in your local area.
- Definition: In many areas, a rank is synonymous with a face cord. However, the dimensions can still differ depending on local custom.
- Practical Implications: Because the definition of a rank is not standardized, you must ask for the precise dimensions (height, width, and length of the wood pieces) before purchasing.
- My Observation: I’ve noticed that some sellers use “rank” to intentionally obfuscate the quantity of wood being sold. Don’t be afraid to ask questions!
- Local Example: In some parts of Wisconsin, a rank might traditionally refer to a stack 4 feet high, 8 feet wide, and 16 inches deep – exactly one-third of a cord. But always confirm.
- Technical Checklist: When someone offers you a ‘rank’ of wood, ask:
- “What is the height of the stack?”
- “What is the width of the stack?”
- “What is the length of the individual pieces of wood?”
- “Is this measurement consistent with a standard face cord in this area?”
- “What is the total cubic feet of wood I will be receiving?”
4. The Firewood Bundle: Small Quantities for Immediate Use
Firewood bundles are the smallest unit, typically sold at gas stations, grocery stores, or campgrounds.
- Definition: A bundle is a small collection of firewood pieces, usually held together by plastic wrap or twine.
- Practical Implications: Bundles are convenient for camping trips or occasional use, but they are the most expensive way to buy firewood per unit volume.
- Cost Analysis: A typical bundle contains around 0.75 cubic feet of wood and can cost $5-$10. This translates to a price of $6.67-$13.33 per cubic foot, compared to a cord which might cost $200-$400 (or $1.56-$3.13 per cubic foot).
- My Tip: If you burn firewood regularly, avoid bundles and buy in larger quantities.
- Technical Note: Check the wood in the bundle for dryness and signs of insects or rot.
5. The Loose Cubic Foot: A More Precise Measurement
Some sellers are moving towards selling firewood by the loose cubic foot, offering a more transparent pricing model.
- Definition: A loose cubic foot refers to the volume of firewood when it’s not neatly stacked.
- Practical Implications: This method can be more accurate than relying on subjective estimations of a cord or face cord, especially when dealing with irregularly shaped pieces of wood.
- Tool Requirement: Determining the volume of loose wood requires a container of known volume or using volume estimation techniques.
- My Approach: When buying by the loose cubic foot, I prefer to see the wood loaded into a container of a known size to verify the quantity.
- Technical Consideration: Keep in mind that a loose cubic foot of wood will contain more air space than a stacked cubic foot.
Firewood Quality: Beyond Volume
Understanding volume is only half the battle. The quality of the firewood is equally important.
Wood Species: Hardwood vs. Softwood
- Hardwoods: These woods (oak, maple, ash, birch) are denser, burn longer, and produce more heat. They are generally preferred for heating homes.
- Softwoods: These woods (pine, fir, spruce) burn faster, produce less heat, and create more smoke. They are better suited for kindling or occasional fires.
- My Recommendation: For primary heating, stick to hardwoods. Softwoods can be useful for starting fires, but they require more frequent refueling.
- Data Point: Oak has a BTU (British Thermal Unit) rating of approximately 27.5 million per cord, while pine has a BTU rating of around 20 million per cord.
Moisture Content: The Key to Efficient Burning
- Ideal Moisture Content: Firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.
- Problems with Wet Wood: Wet wood is hard to light, produces excessive smoke, and burns inefficiently. It can also contribute to creosote buildup in your chimney, increasing the risk of a chimney fire.
- Drying Time: Firewood typically takes 6-12 months to dry properly, depending on the species, climate, and how it’s stacked.
- My Method: I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of my firewood before burning it. This ensures I’m burning dry wood and getting the most heat for my money.
- Technical Specification: A wood moisture meter measures the electrical resistance of the wood, which is correlated to its moisture content.
- Drying Best Practices:
- Split the wood: Splitting increases the surface area exposed to air, accelerating the drying process.
- Stack it properly: Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, and with good air circulation.
- Cover the top: Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for ventilation.
Seasoning vs. Kiln-Dried: Two Approaches to Dry Firewood
- Seasoning: Seasoning is the natural process of drying wood outdoors over time.
- Kiln-Dried: Kiln-drying involves drying wood in a controlled environment using heat. Kiln-dried wood typically has a lower moisture content than seasoned wood.
- Pros and Cons: Seasoned wood is generally cheaper, but it takes longer to dry. Kiln-dried wood is ready to burn immediately, but it’s more expensive.
- My Preference: I prefer to season my own firewood because it’s more cost-effective. However, if you need firewood urgently, kiln-dried wood is a good option.
- Technical Detail: Kiln-dried firewood typically has a moisture content of 10-15%, while seasoned firewood can range from 15-20%.
Safety First: Essential Precautions for Handling Firewood
Firewood handling involves inherent risks. Here are some safety tips to keep in mind:
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
- Gloves: Wear gloves to protect your hands from splinters and dirt.
- Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs when operating a chainsaw or wood splitter.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling logs.
Chainsaw Safety
- Chainsaw Maintenance: Keep your chainsaw properly maintained, with a sharp chain and adequate lubrication.
- Proper Technique: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
- Safe Distance: Maintain a safe distance from others when operating a chainsaw.
- Case Study: I once witnessed a near-fatal accident when someone used a dull chainsaw improperly. The saw kicked back and narrowly missed their face. Always prioritize safety!
- Technical Requirement: Chainsaws should be calibrated regularly to ensure proper chain tension and oil flow.
Wood Splitter Safety
- Read the Manual: Read and understand the operating manual before using a wood splitter.
- Keep Hands Clear: Keep your hands clear of the splitting wedge and moving parts.
- Wear Safety Glasses: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Stable Surface: Operate the wood splitter on a stable, level surface.
- Emergency Stop: Know the location of the emergency stop button.
Lifting Techniques
- Lift with Your Legs: Lift with your legs, not your back, to avoid strain.
- Keep the Load Close: Keep the load close to your body.
- Avoid Twisting: Avoid twisting your body while lifting.
- Get Help: Get help lifting heavy logs.
- My Experience: I learned the hard way about proper lifting techniques after throwing out my back while moving firewood. Now I always use a log carrier or ask for assistance.
Tool Calibration Standards
Chainsaw Calibration
Chainsaw calibration is not just about optimal performance; it’s about safety. A properly calibrated chainsaw reduces the risk of kickback, chain breakage, and other hazardous situations.
- Chain Tension Adjustment:
- Specification: Chain tension should allow the chain to be pulled away from the bar approximately 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch.
- Procedure: Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain until it meets this specification.
- Frequency: Check chain tension before each use and adjust as needed.
- Carburetor Adjustment:
- Purpose: Adjusting the carburetor ensures the engine receives the correct fuel-air mixture for optimal performance.
- Tools: Requires a specialized carburetor adjustment tool.
- Procedure: Adjust the low (L) and high (H) speed needles according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Start with the needles fully closed, then open them to the recommended starting points. Fine-tune the adjustments until the engine idles smoothly and accelerates without hesitation.
- Safety Note: Carburetor adjustments should only be performed by a qualified technician.
- Chain Sharpness:
- Impact: A sharp chain cuts efficiently and reduces the risk of kickback.
- Inspection: Check the chain for dullness or damage before each use.
- Maintenance: Sharpen the chain regularly using a chainsaw file or a chain grinder.
- Frequency: Sharpen the chain after every few hours of use, or more often if it becomes dull.
- Bar Maintenance:
- Purpose: A well-maintained bar ensures smooth chain movement and reduces wear.
- Procedure: Clean the bar regularly to remove dirt and debris. Check the bar rails for wear and file them if necessary.
- Frequency: Clean the bar after each use and check the rails regularly.
- Oil Flow Check:
- Requirement: Adequate oil flow is essential for lubricating the chain and bar, preventing overheating and wear.
- Procedure: Start the chainsaw and hold it over a clean surface. Observe the oil flow from the bar.
- Adjustment: If the oil flow is insufficient, adjust the oiler setting or check for clogs in the oiler system.
Wood Splitter Calibration
Wood splitters, whether hydraulic or manual, also require calibration to ensure safe and efficient operation.
- Hydraulic Fluid Level:
- Specification: Maintain the hydraulic fluid level according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
- Procedure: Check the fluid level regularly using the dipstick or sight glass. Add fluid as needed.
- Frequency: Check the fluid level before each use.
- Hydraulic Pressure Adjustment:
- Purpose: Adjusting the hydraulic pressure ensures the splitter has enough force to split logs without overloading the system.
- Procedure: Use a pressure gauge to check the hydraulic pressure. Adjust the pressure relief valve according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Safety Note: Hydraulic pressure adjustments should only be performed by a qualified technician.
- Wedge Alignment:
- Impact: Proper wedge alignment ensures the log is split cleanly and safely.
- Inspection: Check the wedge for alignment before each use.
- Adjustment: Adjust the wedge as needed to ensure it is centered on the log.
- Ram Speed Adjustment:
- Purpose: Adjusting the ram speed allows you to optimize the splitting speed for different types of wood.
- Procedure: Use the ram speed control to adjust the speed of the ram.
- Tip: Start with a slower speed for harder woods and increase the speed for softer woods.
- Safety Interlocks:
- Requirement: Ensure all safety interlocks are functioning properly. These interlocks prevent the splitter from operating if certain conditions are not met.
- Testing: Test the safety interlocks before each use to ensure they are working correctly.
Wood Selection Criteria
Wood Density
Wood density is a critical factor in determining the heat output and burning time of firewood.
- Hardwoods: Generally denser than softwoods, providing more heat and longer burn times.
- Softwoods: Less dense, burn faster, and produce less heat.
- Examples:
- Oak: High density, excellent heat output.
- Maple: High density, good heat output.
- Ash: Medium density, good heat output.
- Birch: Medium density, good heat output.
- Pine: Low density, low heat output.
- Spruce: Low density, low heat output.
- Fir: Low density, low heat output.
Wood Hardness
Wood hardness affects how easily the wood splits and how resistant it is to wear and tear.
- Hardwoods: Generally harder than softwoods, requiring more force to split.
- Softwoods: Easier to split but may not last as long.
- Technical Measurement: Wood hardness is measured using the Janka hardness test, which determines the force required to embed a steel ball into the wood.
- Examples:
- Oak: High hardness, requires more force to split.
- Maple: High hardness, requires more force to split.
- Ash: Medium hardness, relatively easy to split.
- Birch: Medium hardness, relatively easy to split.
- Pine: Low hardness, easy to split.
- Spruce: Low hardness, easy to split.
- Fir: Low hardness, easy to split.
Moisture Content Tolerances
Maintaining the correct moisture content is crucial for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup.
- Ideal Range: 15-20% for seasoned firewood.
- Maximum Limit: 25% for safe burning.
- Measurement: Use a wood moisture meter to check the moisture content.
- Drying Time: Allow sufficient drying time (6-12 months) to reach the ideal moisture content.
- Storage: Store firewood in a dry, well-ventilated area to prevent moisture absorption.
Bark Thickness
Bark thickness can affect the drying time and burning characteristics of firewood.
- Thick Bark: Can slow down the drying process and may produce more smoke.
- Thin Bark: Allows for faster drying and may burn cleaner.
- Considerations: Species with thick bark, such as oak, may require longer drying times and more frequent removal of loose bark.
Knot Density
Knot density can affect the splitting ease and burning characteristics of firewood.
- High Knot Density: Makes splitting more difficult and may cause uneven burning.
- Low Knot Density: Easier to split and burns more evenly.
- Selection: Choose firewood with low knot density for easier handling and better burning performance.
Practical Tips and Best Practices
Measuring Firewood Accurately
- Stacking: Stack firewood neatly to ensure accurate measurement.
- Dimensions: Verify the dimensions of the stack to ensure it meets the specifications of a cord, face cord, or rank.
- Volume Calculation: Calculate the volume of the stack to determine the amount of firewood.
- Loose Wood: Use a container of known volume to measure loose wood accurately.
Storing Firewood Properly
- Location: Choose a dry, well-ventilated location for storing firewood.
- Elevation: Elevate the firewood off the ground to prevent moisture absorption.
- Covering: Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
- Air Circulation: Allow for good air circulation around the stack to promote drying.
Burning Firewood Efficiently
- Dry Wood: Burn only dry, seasoned firewood to maximize heat output and minimize smoke.
- Airflow: Adjust the airflow in your wood stove or fireplace to optimize combustion.
- Loading: Load firewood properly to ensure efficient burning.
- Maintenance: Clean your chimney regularly to prevent creosote buildup.
