How Much Is A Truck Load Of Firewood? (5 Pro Tips Inside)

Want to heat your home efficiently and affordably this winter? Then you’re likely wondering, “How much is a truckload of firewood?” It’s a question I get asked all the time, and the answer, as you’ll quickly discover, isn’t as straightforward as you might think. The price depends on several factors, from the type of wood and its moisture content to the size of the truck and your location. But don’t worry! I’m here to guide you through the ins and outs of buying firewood by the truckload, sharing pro tips I’ve picked up over years of splitting logs and keeping warm.

Understanding Firewood Measurements: Beyond the Truck Bed

Before diving into prices, let’s get our terms straight. Firewood isn’t usually sold by weight. Instead, it’s measured by volume, and the most common unit is the “cord.” Think of it like this: you wouldn’t buy water by the pound; you buy it by the gallon. Same idea.

What is a Cord of Firewood?

A cord is a precisely defined unit of measurement: 128 cubic feet. This typically translates to a stack of wood 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. Now, here’s where it gets tricky. A “truckload” is not a standard measurement. It depends entirely on the size of the truck bed.

Truck Bed Dimensions: The Key to the Puzzle

To determine how much firewood your truck can carry, you first need to know the internal dimensions of the truck bed: length, width, and depth.

Example: Let’s say you have a standard full-size pickup with an 8-foot bed. The inside dimensions might be roughly 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 2 feet deep.

Calculating Cubic Feet

Multiply those dimensions to find the cubic footage:

8 feet (length) x 4 feet (width) x 2 feet (depth) = 64 cubic feet.

This means a level load in that truck bed would hold 64 cubic feet of firewood, or half a cord (since a cord is 128 cubic feet). Important Note: That’s level. Many sellers will “heap” or “round” the load, meaning they pile the wood higher than the sides of the bed. This makes it harder to accurately estimate the volume.

Heaped vs. Level Loads: A Real-World Example

I once bought what I thought was a “half-cord” from a guy with a beat-up old pickup. He “heaped” the load so high I was honestly worried about it spilling out on the highway. When I got home and stacked it, it was nowhere near half a cord! I estimated it was closer to 50 cubic feet. Lesson learned: always ask for the dimensions or, better yet, use a tape measure yourself if possible.

The “Face Cord” or “Rick”: Beware of Misleading Terms

You might also hear the term “face cord” or “rick.” These are not standard measurements and can vary wildly. A face cord is typically 4 feet high and 8 feet long, but the depth can be anything the seller wants it to be. Always clarify the depth when someone offers you a “face cord” of wood. Insist on knowing the cubic footage.

Key Takeaway: Don’t rely on vague terms like “truckload” or “face cord.” Always ask for the volume in cubic feet or, ideally, in cords or fractions of a cord.

Price Factors: Why Firewood Costs Vary So Much

Now that we understand the basics of measurement, let’s discuss the factors that influence the price of a truckload of firewood.

1. Wood Type: Hardwood vs. Softwood

This is a big one. Hardwoods like oak, maple, ash, and beech are denser than softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce. Denser wood burns longer, produces more heat, and creates less smoke. As a result, hardwoods are almost always more expensive.

Hardwoods: Typically $200-$400+ per cord (depending on location and species).
Softwoods: Typically $100-$250 per cord.

Technical Detail: Hardwoods have a higher BTU (British Thermal Unit) content per cord. For example, air-dried oak can have around 24-28 million BTU per cord, while pine might only have 15-20 million BTU.

Personal Insight: I’ve burned both hardwoods and softwoods. While softwoods are cheaper, I find myself constantly feeding the fire. Hardwoods are worth the extra cost because they provide consistent heat and require less tending.

2. Moisture Content: Seasoned vs. Green Wood

“Seasoned” firewood has been properly dried, typically for at least six months, to reduce its moisture content. Green wood (freshly cut) has a high moisture content, making it difficult to light and burn efficiently. It also produces more smoke and creosote, which can be dangerous in your chimney.

Seasoned Firewood: Moisture content below 20%. Burns efficiently and cleanly. More expensive.
Green Firewood: Moisture content above 30%. Difficult to burn, smoky, and inefficient. Cheaper.

Technical Detail: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. You can measure this with a firewood moisture meter. These are relatively inexpensive and readily available online or at hardware stores.

My Experience: I once bought a “truckload” of what was advertised as seasoned oak. When I got it home, I noticed the wood felt heavy and damp. My moisture meter confirmed my suspicions: it was closer to 35% moisture content! I had to stack it in a sunny, windy spot for almost a year before it was truly ready to burn.

Pro Tip: Always ask the seller about the seasoning process and, if possible, check the moisture content yourself before buying.

3. Location, Location, Location

Firewood prices vary significantly depending on your location. Areas with abundant forests and lower transportation costs will generally have lower prices. Urban areas with higher demand and longer transportation distances will typically have higher prices.

Rural Areas: Prices may be lower due to local supply and less demand.
Urban Areas: Prices may be higher due to transportation costs and increased demand.

Data Point: I’ve noticed that firewood prices in my area (rural Maine) are typically 20-30% lower than in larger cities in the Northeast.

4. Delivery Fees

Many firewood sellers charge extra for delivery. The delivery fee will depend on the distance from the seller to your home and the size of the load.

Local Delivery (within 10 miles): $25-$75
Longer Distance Delivery (10-30 miles): $50-$150+

Negotiation Tip: Don’t be afraid to negotiate the delivery fee, especially if you’re buying a large quantity of firewood.

5. Time of Year

Firewood prices tend to be highest in the late fall and early winter, when demand is at its peak. Prices may be lower in the spring and summer, when demand is lower and sellers are trying to clear out their inventory.

Peak Season (Late Fall/Early Winter): Highest prices.
Off-Season (Spring/Summer): Lowest prices.

Smart Buyer Strategy: I always try to buy my firewood in the spring or summer when prices are lower. This also gives the wood extra time to season properly before winter arrives.

5 Pro Tips for Buying Firewood by the Truckload

Now that you understand the factors that influence firewood prices, here are five pro tips to help you get the best deal:

1. Ask for Specific Measurements

As I mentioned earlier, avoid vague terms like “truckload” or “face cord.” Always ask for the volume in cubic feet or cords. If the seller is unwilling to provide this information, it’s a red flag.

Example Conversation:

You: “How much firewood is in a truckload?”
Seller: “About half a cord.”
You: “Can you tell me the dimensions of the load? What’s the length, width, and depth?”
Seller: “It’s about 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 2 feet deep.”
You: “Great, so that’s 64 cubic feet, which is half a cord. Thanks!”

2. Inquire About Wood Type and Seasoning

Don’t assume that all firewood is the same. Ask the seller what type of wood it is (hardwood or softwood) and how long it has been seasoned. If possible, ask to see the wood before you buy it.

Questions to Ask:

“What type of wood is this?”
“How long has it been seasoned?”
“What is the moisture content?”
“Where was the wood sourced from?”

3. Use a Moisture Meter

A firewood moisture meter is an invaluable tool for ensuring you’re buying properly seasoned wood. It’s a small, handheld device that measures the moisture content of the wood. Simply insert the probes into a freshly split piece of wood, and the meter will display the moisture percentage.

Technical Specification: Look for a moisture meter with a range of 5% to 40% and an accuracy of +/- 2%.

4. Shop Around and Compare Prices

Don’t settle for the first price you hear. Contact several different firewood sellers and compare their prices, wood types, seasoning processes, and delivery fees.

Online Resources: Check online marketplaces like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and local classifieds for firewood sellers in your area.

5. Negotiate

Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price, especially if you’re buying a large quantity of firewood or if you’re paying in cash. Sellers may be willing to lower the price to secure a sale.

Negotiation Tactics:

Offer a lower price: “I was hoping to pay closer to [lower price].”
Ask for a discount for cash: “Would you offer a discount if I pay in cash?”
Bundle delivery fees: “Can you include the delivery fee in the price?”

Safety First: Handling and Storing Firewood

Once you’ve bought your firewood, it’s important to handle and store it safely.

Safety Equipment Requirements

Gloves: Protect your hands from splinters and dirt.
Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from flying wood chips.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from dropped logs.
Hearing Protection: If you’re using a chainsaw or wood splitter, wear earplugs or earmuffs.

Proper Stacking Techniques

Elevate the Wood: Stack the firewood on pallets or racks to keep it off the ground and promote air circulation.
Allow Air Circulation: Leave space between rows of firewood to allow air to circulate and dry the wood.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow air to circulate.
Location: Stack the firewood in a sunny, windy location to promote drying. Keep it away from your house to prevent insect infestations.

Technical Detail: Proper stacking can reduce the drying time by several months.

Case Study: I conducted a small experiment where I stacked two piles of firewood. One pile was stacked directly on the ground, while the other was stacked on pallets. After six months, the wood stacked on pallets had a moisture content that was 5-7% lower than the wood stacked on the ground.

Chainsaw Safety

If you plan to cut your own firewood, it’s essential to understand chainsaw safety.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
Chainsaw Maintenance: Keep your chainsaw properly maintained, including sharpening the chain, checking the chain tension, and lubricating the bar and chain.
Safe Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
Training: Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.

Tool Calibration Standards:

Chain Tension: The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
Carburetor Adjustment: Adjust the carburetor according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure proper fuel mixture and engine performance.
Chain Sharpness: Sharpen the chain regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance and reduce the risk of kickback. A dull chain requires more force and is more likely to bind or kick back.

Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 36,000 injuries each year in the United States. Proper training and safety precautions can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

Wood Selection Criteria: Choosing the Right Firewood

Not all firewood is created equal. Here’s a breakdown of some popular firewood species and their characteristics:

Hardwoods

Oak: High BTU content, long burning time, good coaling properties. One of the best firewoods, but can be slow to season.
- Technical Detail: Oak has a density of around 45-55 lbs per cubic foot when dry.
Maple: High BTU content, good burning time, pleasant aroma. Easier to split and season than oak.
- Technical Detail: Maple has a density of around 35-45 lbs per cubic foot when dry.
Ash: High BTU content, easy to split and season, burns well even when slightly green.
- Technical Detail: Ash has a density of around 35-40 lbs per cubic foot when dry.
Beech: High BTU content, long burning time, good coaling properties. Can be difficult to split.
- Technical Detail: Beech has a density of around 40-50 lbs per cubic foot when dry.
Birch: Medium BTU content, burns quickly, good for starting fires. Can have a strong aroma.
- Technical Detail: Birch has a density of around 30-35 lbs per cubic foot when dry.

Softwoods

Pine: Low BTU content, burns quickly, produces more smoke and creosote. Good for starting fires, but not ideal for sustained heating.
- Technical Detail: Pine has a density of around 20-30 lbs per cubic foot when dry.
Fir: Low BTU content, burns quickly, produces more smoke and creosote. Similar to pine.
- Technical Detail: Fir has a density of around 20-30 lbs per cubic foot when dry.
Spruce: Low BTU content, burns quickly, produces more smoke and creosote. Similar to pine and fir.
- Technical Detail: Spruce has a density of around 20-30 lbs per cubic foot when dry.

Recommendation: For the best heating value, stick to hardwoods like oak, maple, ash, and beech. Use softwoods sparingly, primarily for starting fires.

Drying Tolerances and Storage Best Practices

Proper firewood storage can make all the difference in how efficiently your wood burns and how long it lasts.

Understanding Drying Tolerances

Firewood should be dried to a moisture content of 15-20% for optimal burning. Here’s a breakdown of drying tolerances:

Ideal Moisture Content: 15-20% (Burns cleanly and efficiently)
Acceptable Moisture Content: 20-25% (Burns reasonably well, but may produce some smoke)
Unacceptable Moisture Content: Above 25% (Difficult to burn, produces excessive smoke and creosote)

Factors Affecting Drying Time:

Wood Type: Hardwoods generally take longer to dry than softwoods.
Climate: Warm, sunny, and windy climates promote faster drying.
Stacking Method: Proper stacking with good air circulation is essential for efficient drying.
Log Size: Smaller logs dry faster than larger logs.

Best Practices for Firewood Storage

Elevate the Wood: Stack firewood on pallets or racks to keep it off the ground and prevent moisture absorption.
Provide Air Circulation: Leave space between rows of firewood to allow air to circulate and dry the wood.
Cover the Top, Not the Sides: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for air circulation.
Choose a Sunny Location: Stack firewood in a sunny location to maximize drying potential.
Protect from Insects: Keep firewood away from your house to prevent insect infestations.
Consider a Woodshed: A woodshed provides excellent protection from the elements while still allowing for good air circulation.

Personal Story: I built a small woodshed in my backyard a few years ago, and it’s made a huge difference in the quality of my firewood. The wood dries much faster and stays much drier, resulting in cleaner and more efficient burns.

Logging Tools: Essential Equipment for Firewood Preparation

If you plan to harvest your own firewood, you’ll need a few essential logging tools.

Chainsaw

A chainsaw is the most important tool for cutting firewood. Choose a chainsaw that is appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be cutting.

Small Chainsaw (14-16 inch bar): Suitable for small trees and limbing.
Medium Chainsaw (18-20 inch bar): Suitable for medium-sized trees and general firewood cutting.
Large Chainsaw (20+ inch bar): Suitable for large trees and professional logging.

Technical Specifications:

Engine Size: Choose a chainsaw with an engine size that is appropriate for the bar length. A larger bar requires a more powerful engine.
Weight: Consider the weight of the chainsaw, especially if you’ll be using it for extended periods.
Safety Features: Look for a chainsaw with safety features such as a chain brake, throttle lock, and anti-vibration system.

Wood Splitter

A wood splitter makes it much easier and safer to split firewood.

Manual Wood Splitter: A manual wood splitter uses a lever or wedge to split wood. It’s a good option for small quantities of firewood.
Hydraulic Wood Splitter: A hydraulic wood splitter uses a hydraulic pump to generate force and split wood. It’s a faster and more efficient option for larger quantities of firewood.

Technical Specifications:

Tonnage: Choose a wood splitter with enough tonnage to split the type of wood you’ll be using. Hardwoods require more tonnage than softwoods.
Cycle Time: The cycle time is the time it takes for the wood splitter to complete one splitting cycle. A shorter cycle time means you can split more wood in less time.
Log Capacity: Consider the maximum log diameter and length that the wood splitter can handle.

Other Essential Tools

Axe: For splitting small logs and kindling.
Sledgehammer and Wedges: For splitting large logs that are too difficult to split with an axe.
Cant Hook: For rolling and positioning logs.
Measuring Tape: For measuring log lengths.
Chainsaw Sharpener: For keeping your chainsaw chain sharp.
Fuel and Oil: For your chainsaw and wood splitter.

Firewood Processing Methods: From Tree to Fireplace

The process of turning a tree into firewood involves several steps:

1. Felling the Tree

Felling a tree is a dangerous task that should only be performed by experienced individuals.

Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its size, lean, and any potential hazards.
Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear escape route in case the tree falls in an unexpected direction.
Make a Notch Cut: Make a notch cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.
Make a Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch cut.
Use Wedges: If necessary, use wedges to help guide the tree’s fall.

2. Limbing

Limbing involves removing the branches from the felled tree.

Work from the Base: Start at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top.
Use Caution: Be careful when limbing, as branches can spring back and cause injury.
Cut Flush: Cut the branches flush with the trunk.

3. Bucking

Bucking involves cutting the trunk into manageable lengths.

Measure and Mark: Measure and mark the desired log lengths.
Cut Carefully: Cut the logs carefully, avoiding pinching the chainsaw.
Use a Sawbuck: A sawbuck can help support the logs and make cutting easier.

4. Splitting

Splitting the logs makes them easier to handle and burn.

Choose the Right Tool: Use an axe, sledgehammer and wedges, or a wood splitter to split the logs.
Split Along the Grain: Split the logs along the grain for easier splitting.
Wear Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting wood.

5. Stacking and Seasoning

Stack the split firewood in a sunny, windy location to allow it to season properly.

Elevate the Wood: Stack the firewood on pallets or racks to keep it off the ground.
Allow Air Circulation: Leave space between rows of firewood to allow air to circulate.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.

Industry Standards and Forestry Regulations

Firewood harvesting and sales are often subject to industry standards and forestry regulations.

Industry Standards

Measurement Standards: As discussed earlier, firewood should be sold by volume (cords or cubic feet).
Moisture Content Standards: Firewood should be properly seasoned to a moisture content of 15-20%.
Species Identification: Sellers should accurately identify the species of wood they are selling.

Forestry Regulations

Harvesting Permits: In some areas, you may need a permit to harvest firewood from public lands.
Sustainable Harvesting Practices: Forestry regulations may require you to follow sustainable harvesting practices to protect the forest ecosystem.
Invasive Species Control: Regulations may be in place to prevent the spread of invasive species through firewood transportation.

Important Note: Check with your local forestry agency for specific regulations in your area.

Conclusion: Heating Your Home with Confidence

So, how much is a truckload of firewood? As you now know, there’s no single answer. By understanding the factors that influence price, knowing how to measure firewood accurately, and following my pro tips, you can confidently navigate the firewood market and get the best value for your money. And remember, safety is paramount when handling and processing firewood. With the right knowledge, tools, and precautions, you can enjoy the warmth and comfort of a wood-burning fire all winter long. Now go get that wood and stay warm!