How Much For A Rick Of Wood? (5 Firewood Measurement Myths)

Did you know that heating your home with firewood can save you up to 50% on your heating bill compared to using oil or gas? But before you rush out to buy a load, it’s crucial to understand how firewood is measured and priced. I’ve spent years working with wood, from felling trees in the brisk morning air to splitting logs under the summer sun, and I’ve learned that buying firewood isn’t as straightforward as it seems. There are many misconceptions and outright myths that can leave you paying too much for too little. In this guide, I’ll debunk five common firewood measurement myths and equip you with the knowledge to confidently purchase the right amount of wood at a fair price. Let’s dive in, ensuring you get the best bang for your buck and stay warm all winter long.

How Much for a Rick of Wood? (5 Firewood Measurement Myths)

Buying firewood can feel like navigating a forest of misinformation. Over the years, I’ve seen folks get shortchanged, confused, and downright bamboozled by misleading firewood measurements. I’m going to cut through the confusion and reveal five common myths about firewood measurements. I’ll give you the tools you need to be an informed buyer, ensuring you get a fair deal and a warm home all winter long.

Myth 1: A Rick is a Standard, Universal Measurement

The term “rick” is one of the most ambiguous and misunderstood terms in the firewood world. There’s no standard definition, and its meaning can vary wildly from one region to another, even from one seller to the next.

The Reality of the Rick

A rick of wood is generally understood to be a stack that is 4 feet high and 8 feet long, but the depth, or width, of the stack is where the ambiguity lies. This depth can range from 12 inches to 24 inches or even more, depending on local custom and the seller’s interpretation.

I remember one time, early in my wood-buying days, I ordered a “rick” from a local seller. I was expecting a decent-sized pile, enough to get me through a good chunk of the winter. When the delivery arrived, I was shocked to see a stack that was barely a foot deep. It was technically 4 feet high and 8 feet long, but the narrow depth meant I got far less wood than I anticipated. That day, I learned the hard way that a “rick” is far from a standardized measurement.

Why This Matters

This lack of standardization is why it’s crucial to clarify exactly what a seller means by a “rick.” Always ask about the dimensions – height, length, and depth – to get a clear understanding of the volume you’re purchasing.

How to Avoid Getting Shortchanged

Always ask for dimensions: Never assume you know what a seller means by “rick.” Get the exact height, length, and depth of the stack.
Compare to a cord: A cord is a standardized measurement (more on that later). Use it as a benchmark to compare the volume offered in a “rick.”
Get it in writing: Make sure the dimensions are clearly stated on your receipt or invoice.

Myth 2: A Cord is Always a Cord

While a “cord” is a more standardized measurement than a “rick,” it’s still not foolproof. The term “cord” refers to a specific volume of wood, but how that volume is achieved can sometimes be misleading.

The Official Definition of a Cord

A cord is defined as a stack of wood that measures 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. This equates to 128 cubic feet of wood, including air space within the stack.

The “Short Cord” Scam

Unfortunately, some unscrupulous sellers try to pass off a smaller stack as a “cord.” They might reduce the height or width of the stack, or they might loosely pile the wood to increase the air space and decrease the actual wood volume.

I once heard a story about a fellow who ordered a cord of wood, only to find that the delivered stack was significantly smaller than expected. He measured it carefully and discovered that it was several inches short in both height and width. When he confronted the seller, the seller claimed that the wood had “settled” during transport. Of course, that was nonsense, but it highlights the importance of being vigilant and measuring the stack yourself.

The Face Cord Confusion

Another common point of confusion is the term “face cord.” A face cord is essentially a single row of wood, 4 feet high and 8 feet long, but its depth varies. It’s often used interchangeably with a “rick,” which only adds to the confusion. A face cord is not a full cord unless the depth of the wood is 4 feet.

How to Ensure You Get a Full Cord

Measure the stack: After delivery, take the time to measure the height, width, and length of the stack to ensure it matches the dimensions of a cord (4′ x 4′ x 8′).
Calculate the volume: Multiply the height, width, and length (in feet) to get the total cubic feet. It should be close to 128 cubic feet.
Be wary of loose stacking: A loosely stacked cord will have more air space and less actual wood. A tightly stacked cord is the better deal.

Myth 3: All Firewood is Sold by Volume

While volume measurements like cords and ricks are common, some sellers price firewood by weight. This can be particularly misleading, as the weight of wood varies significantly depending on its moisture content and species.

The Problem with Weight-Based Pricing

Freshly cut (“green”) wood is much heavier than seasoned wood because it contains a significant amount of water. If you buy firewood by weight, you could be paying a premium for water that will eventually evaporate.

I once bought a load of oak that was advertised as “seasoned.” However, when it arrived, I could tell it was still quite green. I weighed a few pieces and compared them to properly seasoned oak I had on hand. The “seasoned” wood was significantly heavier, indicating a high moisture content. I ended up paying for a lot of water weight, which was a costly mistake.

Species Matter

Different wood species have different densities. A cord of oak will weigh more than a cord of pine, even when both are properly seasoned. If you’re paying by weight, you need to be aware of the species and its typical weight per cord.

The Exception: Kiln-Dried Wood

Kiln-dried wood is an exception to the rule. Because it’s been dried to a very low moisture content in a kiln, its weight is more consistent and predictable. Buying kiln-dried wood by weight can be a reasonable option.

How to Navigate Weight-Based Pricing

Ask about moisture content: Always inquire about the moisture content of the wood. Properly seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.
Know the species: Understand the typical weight per cord for the species you’re buying.
Compare prices: If possible, compare the price per weight to the price per cord from other sellers.
Consider kiln-dried wood: If you’re concerned about moisture content, kiln-dried wood is a good option, even if it’s priced by weight.

Myth 4: All Firewood is the Same Quality

Not all firewood is created equal. The species of wood, its moisture content, and its overall condition all significantly impact its heating value and burning characteristics.

The Importance of Species

Different wood species have different densities and resin contents, which affect how much heat they produce and how cleanly they burn. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and birch are denser and produce more heat than softwoods like pine, fir, and spruce. Softwoods also tend to have higher resin content, which can lead to more smoke and creosote buildup in your chimney.

I’ve burned just about every type of wood imaginable over the years. I’ve found that oak is my go-to for long, slow burns that keep the house warm all night. Maple is another excellent choice, providing a good balance of heat and clean burning. Pine, on the other hand, is best used for kindling or starting fires, as it burns quickly and doesn’t produce as much heat.

The Crucial Role of Moisture Content

The moisture content of firewood is arguably the most important factor affecting its quality. Green wood, with a high moisture content, is difficult to light, produces a lot of smoke, and generates very little heat. It also contributes to creosote buildup, which can be a fire hazard.

Properly seasoned firewood, with a moisture content of 20% or less, lights easily, burns cleanly, and produces significantly more heat. Seasoning involves splitting the wood and stacking it in a well-ventilated area for at least six months, preferably longer.

Signs of Poor Quality Firewood

Green wood: Heavy, difficult to light, produces excessive smoke.
Rotten wood: Soft, crumbly, may have a musty odor.
Bug-infested wood: Look for signs of insect activity, such as holes or sawdust.
Moldy wood: Discolored, may have a fuzzy or slimy texture.

How to Choose High-Quality Firewood

Ask about species: Choose hardwoods for maximum heat output.
Check moisture content: Use a moisture meter to ensure the wood is properly seasoned (20% or less).
Inspect the wood: Look for signs of rot, bugs, or mold.
Buy from a reputable seller: A trustworthy seller will be transparent about the species and moisture content of their wood.

Myth 5: You Can’t Season Firewood Yourself

While buying seasoned firewood is convenient, it’s often more expensive. Seasoning your own firewood is a cost-effective way to ensure you have a supply of high-quality wood ready when you need it.

The Benefits of Seasoning Your Own Firewood

Cost savings: You can save a significant amount of money by buying green wood and seasoning it yourself.
Control over quality: You have complete control over the seasoning process, ensuring the wood is properly dried.
Peace of mind: You know exactly what you’re burning, eliminating the risk of buying poorly seasoned or low-quality wood.

I’ve been seasoning my own firewood for years, and I’ve found it to be a rewarding and economical way to heat my home. There’s something satisfying about cutting, splitting, and stacking wood, knowing that you’re preparing for the winter ahead.

The Seasoning Process: A Step-by-Step Guide

Choose the right time to cut: The best time to cut firewood is in late winter or early spring, after the sap has stopped flowing.
Split the wood: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area to the air, speeding up the drying process.
Stack the wood properly: Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, in a well-ventilated area with good sun exposure.
Allow adequate drying time: Hardwoods typically take at least six months to a year to season properly. Softwoods may dry more quickly.
Monitor moisture content: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning. Aim for 20% or less.

Tips for Successful Seasoning

Elevate the stack: Use pallets or scrap wood to keep the wood off the ground, preventing moisture from wicking up from the soil.
Cover the top of the stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for ventilation.
Choose a sunny location: Sunlight helps to dry the wood more quickly.
Be patient: Seasoning takes time. Don’t rush the process, or you’ll end up with wood that’s difficult to burn.

Debunked Myths: A Quick Recap

Let’s recap the five firewood measurement myths we’ve debunked:

A Rick is a Standard, Universal Measurement: False. A “rick” is an ambiguous term with no standard definition. Always ask for dimensions.
A Cord is Always a Cord: False. Some sellers try to pass off smaller stacks as “cords.” Measure the stack to ensure you’re getting what you paid for.
All Firewood is Sold by Volume: False. Some sellers price firewood by weight, which can be misleading due to variations in moisture content and species.
All Firewood is the Same Quality: False. The species of wood, its moisture content, and its overall condition all significantly impact its heating value.
You Can’t Season Firewood Yourself: False. Seasoning your own firewood is a cost-effective way to ensure you have a supply of high-quality wood.

Actionable Strategies for Firewood Buyers

Now that we’ve busted these myths, let’s talk about actionable strategies you can use to become a savvy firewood buyer.

1. Know Your Measurements

Familiarize yourself with standard firewood measurements:

Cord: 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, 8 feet long (128 cubic feet)
Face Cord (or Rick): 4 feet high, 8 feet long, depth varies (typically 12-24 inches)

Always ask for the dimensions of any stack you’re considering buying, regardless of what it’s called.

2. Invest in a Moisture Meter

A moisture meter is an invaluable tool for assessing the quality of firewood. It measures the percentage of moisture in the wood, allowing you to determine if it’s properly seasoned. You can find affordable moisture meters online or at hardware stores.

3. Inspect Before You Buy

Before you commit to buying a load of firewood, take the time to inspect it carefully. Look for signs of rot, bugs, or mold. Check the ends of the logs for cracks, which indicate that the wood has been drying. If possible, split a log and check the color and texture of the wood inside.

4. Ask the Right Questions

Don’t be afraid to ask the seller questions about their firewood. Here are some important questions to ask:

What species of wood is it?
How long has it been seasoned?
What is the moisture content?
How is it measured (volume or weight)?
What are the dimensions of the stack?
Do you offer a guarantee?

5. Shop Around and Compare Prices

Don’t settle for the first firewood seller you find. Shop around and compare prices from multiple sources. Consider factors like species, moisture content, and delivery fees when comparing prices.

6. Consider Buying in Bulk

If you have the space to store it, buying firewood in bulk can save you money in the long run. Many sellers offer discounts for larger orders.

7. Season Your Own Firewood

As we discussed earlier, seasoning your own firewood is a great way to save money and ensure you have a supply of high-quality wood.

Advanced Firewood Preparation Techniques

Once you’ve mastered the basics of buying and seasoning firewood, you can explore some advanced techniques to optimize your wood-burning experience.

1. Timber Grading

Understanding timber grading can help you select the best wood for your needs. Timber grading involves classifying wood based on its quality, size, and defects. Different grading systems are used in different regions, but the basic principles are the same.

2. Sawmill Operations

If you have access to a sawmill, you can process your own logs into firewood. Sawmills use various types of saws to cut logs into boards, planks, and other dimensions. Understanding sawmill operations can help you maximize the yield from your logs and produce firewood efficiently.

3. Splitting Techniques

There are several different techniques for splitting firewood, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Using the right technique can make the job easier and safer. Some common techniques include:

Using a maul: A maul is a heavy, axe-like tool used for splitting wood. It’s best for splitting large, knotty logs.
Using a splitting axe: A splitting axe is lighter than a maul and is better suited for splitting smaller, straighter logs.
Using a log splitter: A log splitter is a hydraulic machine that uses a wedge to split wood. It’s the most efficient way to split large quantities of firewood.

4. Wood Drying Processes

There are several different methods for drying firewood, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The most common methods include:

Air drying: Air drying involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally.
Kiln drying: Kiln drying involves drying the wood in a heated chamber. This method is faster than air drying and results in a more consistent moisture content.
Solar drying: Solar drying involves using a solar kiln to dry the wood. This method is more energy-efficient than kiln drying and can be used in remote locations.

5. Safety Procedures

Safety should always be a top priority when handling logging tools or preparing firewood. Here are some important safety procedures to follow:

Wear appropriate safety gear: This includes safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, and steel-toed boots.
Use tools properly: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all tools and equipment.
Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for hazards such as uneven terrain, falling branches, and wildlife.
Take breaks: Working with wood can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
Never work alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.

Tools of the Trade: A Firewood Preparation Toolkit

To efficiently and safely prepare firewood, you’ll need a well-equipped toolkit. Here’s a list of essential tools:

Chainsaw: For felling trees and cutting logs to length.
Splitting axe or maul: For splitting logs.
Log splitter: For splitting large quantities of wood (optional but highly recommended).
Wedges: For splitting stubborn logs.
Sledgehammer: For driving wedges.
Measuring tape: For measuring logs and stacks of wood.
Moisture meter: For measuring the moisture content of wood.
Safety glasses: To protect your eyes from flying debris.
Gloves: To protect your hands from cuts and splinters.
Hearing protection: To protect your ears from chainsaw noise.
Steel-toed boots: To protect your feet from falling logs.
First-aid kit: For treating minor injuries.

Case Studies: Real-World Firewood Projects

To illustrate the principles we’ve discussed, let’s look at a few real-world case studies:

Case Study 1: The Small-Scale Logger

A small-scale logger in Maine harvests timber from his own property and sells firewood to local residents. He uses a chainsaw to fell trees and cut them into logs. He then uses a log splitter to split the logs into firewood. He stacks the firewood in a well-ventilated area and allows it to season for at least six months. He sells the firewood by the cord, ensuring that each cord measures 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. He also uses a moisture meter to ensure that the firewood is properly seasoned before selling it.

Case Study 2: The Firewood Producer

A firewood producer in Oregon buys logs from local sawmills and processes them into firewood. He uses a sawmill to cut the logs into uniform lengths. He then uses a log splitter to split the logs into firewood. He dries the firewood in a kiln to reduce its moisture content. He sells the firewood by weight, ensuring that each load meets a specific weight target. He also provides customers with information about the species of wood and its heating value.

Case Study 3: The Homeowner

A homeowner in Wisconsin cuts and splits his own firewood from trees that have fallen on his property. He uses a chainsaw to cut the trees into logs. He then uses a splitting axe to split the logs into firewood. He stacks the firewood in a single row, off the ground, in a sunny location. He allows the firewood to season for at least a year before burning it. He uses a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning it.

Final Thoughts: Staying Warm and Saving Money

Buying firewood doesn’t have to be a gamble. By understanding the myths and realities of firewood measurements, you can make informed decisions and get the best value for your money. Remember to always ask questions, inspect the wood, and season your own firewood whenever possible. With a little knowledge and effort, you can stay warm all winter long without breaking the bank. So, go forth, find the perfect rick (or cord!) of wood, and enjoy the cozy warmth of a crackling fire.