How Many Ricks In A Cord? (5 Firewood Facts You Didn’t Know)

How Many Ricks in a Cord? (5 Firewood Facts You Didn’t Know)

Innovation isn’t just about the latest gadgets; it’s about optimizing age-old practices. In the world of firewood, that means understanding volume, costs, and efficiency. Gone are the days of haphazardly stacking wood without a second thought. Today, we’re embracing data-driven approaches to maximize every log, minimize expenses, and ensure we get the most bang for our buck (or should I say, “cord”?). This article dives deep into the relationship between ricks and cords, unveiling five surprising facts that will transform how you think about firewood. Let’s get started!

The Burning Question: Ricks vs. Cords – Decoding Firewood Measurements

Firewood. It’s the heart of many cozy winter evenings, the fuel for outdoor adventures, and a vital resource for those who rely on it for heating. But navigating the world of firewood measurements can be tricky. You hear terms like “cord,” “rick,” “face cord,” and “pile,” and it’s easy to get lost in the woodpile of confusion. Let’s break down the basics and explore the relationship between ricks and cords.

Understanding the Cord: The Gold Standard

A cord is the legally defined standard measurement for firewood. It’s a precisely defined volume: 128 cubic feet. Imagine a stack of wood that is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. That’s a cord. It’s crucial to understand this because, in most regions, selling firewood by the cord ensures a consistent and fair transaction.

What Exactly is a Rick (or Face Cord)?

This is where things get interesting, and potentially confusing. A rick, also sometimes called a face cord or a pile, is a less precise measurement. The height is usually 4 feet, and the width is determined by the length of the firewood pieces (typically 12, 16, or 18 inches). The length of the rick varies depending on the seller.

The problem arises because the term “rick” isn’t standardized like “cord.” This means a rick in one state might be significantly different in size than a rick in another. It’s like saying “a handful” – it’s subjective and depends on the size of the hand!

The Key Relationship: Ricks Per Cord

So, how many ricks are in a cord? The answer depends entirely on the length of the wood in the rick. This is where the math comes in, and it’s critical to avoid getting shortchanged.

Here’s the formula to calculate how many ricks make a cord:

Cubic Feet in a Rick = Height x Width x Length (where Height = 4 feet)
Number of Ricks in a Cord = 128 cubic feet / Cubic Feet in a Rick

Let’s look at some common firewood lengths:

12-inch Wood: A rick of 12-inch wood is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 1 foot (12 inches) long. That’s 4 x 4 x 1 = 16 cubic feet. Therefore, 128 / 16 = 8 ricks per cord.
16-inch Wood: A rick of 16-inch wood is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 1.33 feet (16 inches) long. That’s 4 x 4 x 1.33 = 21.28 cubic feet. Therefore, 128 / 21.28 = approximately 6 ricks per cord.
18-inch Wood: A rick of 18-inch wood is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 1.5 feet (18 inches) long. That’s 4 x 4 x 1.5 = 24 cubic feet. Therefore, 128 / 24 = approximately 5.33 ricks per cord.
24-inch Wood: A rick of 24-inch wood is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 2 feet (24 inches) long. That’s 4 x 4 x 2 = 32 cubic feet. Therefore, 128 / 32 = 4 ricks per cord.

The takeaway: Always ask the seller the length of the wood in the rick. Then, do the math! Don’t rely on a vague description.

Personal Experience: The “Almost a Cord” Scam

I remember one winter, I was in a pinch and needed firewood quickly. I found a guy selling what he called “a hefty rick” of wood. He swore it was “almost a cord.” Being new to the area, I trusted him. When I stacked it, I realized it was nowhere near a cord. The wood was cut to 16 inches, and I had barely enough for 4 ricks. I learned a valuable lesson that day: always measure and calculate! It’s a far better strategy than relying on someone else’s definition of “hefty.”

Firewood Fact #1: Wood Species Matters – Not All Firewood is Created Equal

The type of wood you burn dramatically affects its heating value, burn time, and the amount of smoke it produces. This, in turn, influences how much firewood you need to buy (and therefore, the cost).

BTU (British Thermal Units): Understanding Heat Output

BTU is the standard measure of heat energy. A higher BTU rating means the wood produces more heat per volume. Hardwoods generally have higher BTU ratings than softwoods.

Here’s a comparison of some common firewood species and their approximate BTU ratings per cord:

Oak (Red or White): 24-29 million BTU/cord. Oak is a top choice. It burns hot, long, and clean.
Maple (Sugar or Red): 20-24 million BTU/cord. Maple is another excellent hardwood. It’s slightly easier to split than oak.
Beech: 22-27 million BTU/cord. Beech is similar to oak in its burning characteristics.
Ash (White): 20-24 million BTU/cord. Ash splits easily and burns well, making it a popular choice.
Birch (Yellow): 20 million BTU/cord. Birch burns relatively quickly but provides good heat.
Pine (Various Types): 12-18 million BTU/cord. Pine is a softwood. It burns quickly, produces more smoke, and leaves more creosote buildup in your chimney.
Fir (Douglas or Balsam): 15-20 million BTU/cord. Similar to pine, fir is a softwood with lower heat output.

Why does this matter? If you’re burning pine, you’ll need significantly more wood to achieve the same heat output as oak. This translates directly into higher costs.

The Cost Factor: Hardwood vs. Softwood

Hardwood generally costs more per cord than softwood. This reflects the higher BTU value and the longer burn time. However, burning softwood might be a viable option if it’s readily available and significantly cheaper in your area. You just need to be prepared to burn more of it.

I live in an area where oak is relatively scarce and expensive. I often supplement my oak supply with birch, which is more readily available. I know I need to buy more birch to get the same heat, but the lower price makes it a cost-effective alternative.

The Creosote Consideration

Softwoods produce more creosote when burned. Creosote is a flammable byproduct that can build up in your chimney and increase the risk of a chimney fire. Burning hardwoods reduces creosote buildup. If you burn softwood, you’ll need to clean your chimney more frequently, which adds to the overall cost.

Local Considerations: Availability and Price

The best firewood choice often comes down to what’s readily available and affordable in your area. Research the common wood species in your region and their BTU ratings. Compare prices and factor in the cost of chimney cleaning if you plan to burn softwood.

Firewood Fact #2: Seasoning is Key – Moisture Content and Drying Time

Freshly cut (“green”) wood contains a significant amount of moisture. Burning green wood is inefficient, produces less heat, and creates more smoke and creosote. Seasoning (drying) firewood is essential for efficient and safe burning.

Moisture Content: The Enemy of Efficiency

Moisture content is the percentage of water in the wood compared to its dry weight. Green wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. Ideally, firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less before burning.

Why is moisture content so important? When you burn green wood, a significant portion of the heat energy goes into evaporating the water instead of heating your home. This reduces the heat output and increases smoke production.

Drying Time: Patience is a Virtue

The drying time for firewood depends on several factors:

Wood Species: Some species dry faster than others. Softwoods generally dry faster than hardwoods.
Climate: Warm, dry climates are ideal for drying firewood.
Stacking Method: Proper stacking promotes airflow and speeds up drying.
Wood Size: Smaller pieces dry faster than larger pieces.

As a general guideline, expect firewood to take 6-12 months to dry properly. Some hardwoods, like oak, may take even longer.

How to Stack Firewood for Optimal Drying:

Elevate the Wood: Stack the wood on pallets or racks to keep it off the ground and promote airflow.
Split the Wood: Splitting the wood exposes more surface area to the air, speeding up drying.
Stack Loosely: Don’t pack the wood too tightly. Leave space between the rows to allow for airflow.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for ventilation.
Location, Location, Location: Choose a sunny, windy location for your woodpile.

Measuring Moisture Content: Tools of the Trade

You can use a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of your firewood. These devices are relatively inexpensive and easy to use. Simply insert the probes into a freshly split piece of wood and read the moisture percentage.

Cost Implications: Buying Green vs. Seasoned

Seasoned firewood typically costs more than green firewood. However, buying seasoned wood is almost always the more cost-effective option in the long run. You’ll burn less wood to achieve the same heat output, and you’ll reduce the risk of chimney problems.

You can save money by buying green wood and seasoning it yourself. However, you need to plan ahead and have the space to store the wood for several months.

I’ve experimented with both buying seasoned wood and seasoning my own. While it’s tempting to save money upfront by buying green wood, I’ve found that the hassle and the lower heat output aren’t worth it. I prefer to buy seasoned wood whenever possible, even if it costs a bit more.

Formula for Estimating Drying Time

While there’s no precise formula, here’s a general guideline for estimating drying time based on wood species and climate:

Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Beech): 9-12 months in a dry climate, 12-18 months in a humid climate.
Softwoods (Pine, Fir): 6-9 months in a dry climate, 9-12 months in a humid climate.

Remember, these are just estimates. Use a moisture meter to confirm that the wood is properly seasoned before burning.

Firewood Fact #3: Cutting and Splitting Costs – DIY vs. Buying Split

The cost of firewood isn’t just about the price per cord. It also includes the cost of cutting and splitting the wood, whether you do it yourself or pay someone else to do it.

DIY: The Labor of Love (and Sweat)

Cutting and splitting your own firewood can be a rewarding experience. It’s a great way to get exercise, connect with nature, and save money. However, it also requires time, effort, and the right equipment.

Equipment Costs:

Chainsaw: A good quality chainsaw can cost anywhere from $200 to $1000 or more, depending on the size and features.
Splitting Axe: A splitting axe is essential for splitting larger logs. Expect to pay $50 to $100 for a decent axe.
Splitting Maul: A splitting maul is a heavier version of a splitting axe, designed for splitting very large or knotty logs.
Safety Gear: Safety glasses, gloves, and a helmet are essential for protecting yourself while cutting and splitting wood.
Wedges: Steel wedges can help split particularly stubborn logs.
Sledgehammer: Used in conjunction with wedges.

Ongoing Costs:

Chainsaw Maintenance: Chainsaws require regular maintenance, including sharpening the chain, cleaning the air filter, and replacing spark plugs.
Fuel and Oil: Chainsaws run on a mixture of gasoline and oil.
Sharpening Equipment: You’ll need a file or a chainsaw sharpener to keep your chain in good condition.
Tool Maintenance: Axes and mauls may need occasional sharpening or handle replacement.

Labor Costs:

This is the often-overlooked cost. How much is your time worth? Consider the time it takes to fell the trees, buck them into logs, split the wood, and stack it.

I enjoy the physical labor of cutting and splitting wood. It’s a good workout and a stress reliever. However, I also recognize that my time has value. I factor in the hours I spend on firewood preparation when calculating the overall cost.

Buying Split: Convenience at a Price

Buying split firewood is more convenient than cutting and splitting it yourself. You save time and effort, and you don’t need to invest in expensive equipment. However, you’ll pay a premium for the convenience.

Price per Cord (Split): The price of split firewood varies depending on the wood species, the region, and the seller. Expect to pay significantly more for split wood than for unsplit logs.

Delivery Fees: Some sellers charge extra for delivery.

Stacking Fees: Some sellers will stack the wood for you, but they may charge an additional fee.

The Great Debate: DIY vs. Buying Split

The decision of whether to cut and split your own firewood or buy split wood depends on your individual circumstances:

Time: Do you have the time to cut and split your own wood?
Physical Ability: Are you physically able to handle the labor involved?
Equipment: Do you have the necessary equipment?
Space: Do you have the space to store the wood and the equipment?
Cost: Compare the cost of DIY vs. buying split in your area.

A Hybrid Approach:

Consider a hybrid approach. You could buy logs and split them yourself to save money on labor, or you could buy split wood for the majority of your needs and cut and split a small amount yourself for supplemental heating.

Case Study: Cost Comparison

Let’s compare the cost of cutting and splitting your own firewood versus buying split wood.

Scenario: You need 4 cords of firewood for the winter.

DIY Costs:

Chainsaw: $500 (amortized over 5 years = $100/year)
Splitting Axe: $75
Safety Gear: $50
Fuel and Oil: $50/year
Maintenance: $25/year
Cost of Logs: $150/cord x 4 cords = $600
Total DIY Cost: $100 + $75 + $50 + $50 + $25 + $600 = $900
Time Investment: Assuming 20 hours per cord (felling, bucking, splitting, stacking) = 80 hours

Buying Split Costs:

Price per Cord (Split): $300/cord x 4 cords = $1200
Delivery Fee: $50 (optional)
Total Buying Split Cost: $1200 + $50 = $1250
Time Investment: Minimal (arranging delivery and stacking)

In this scenario, DIY saves you $350, but it requires a significant time investment. If your time is worth more than $4.38 per hour ($350 / 80 hours), then buying split wood is the more cost-effective option.

Firewood Fact #4: Transportation and Storage – Getting it Home and Keeping it Dry

The costs associated with firewood don’t end with the purchase price. You also need to factor in the cost of transporting the wood to your home and storing it properly.

Transportation Costs: From the Seller to Your Yard

If you’re buying firewood, you’ll need to transport it from the seller’s location to your home. This can involve renting a truck, borrowing a trailer, or paying for delivery.

Truck Rental: Renting a pickup truck can cost anywhere from $50 to $100 per day, plus mileage.

Trailer Rental: Renting a trailer is usually cheaper than renting a truck. Expect to pay $20 to $50 per day.

Delivery Fees: Many firewood sellers offer delivery services, but they typically charge a fee. Delivery fees can range from $25 to $100 or more, depending on the distance and the amount of wood.

Fuel Costs: Don’t forget to factor in the cost of fuel for your vehicle.

I have a small utility trailer that I use to haul firewood. It’s a worthwhile investment if you plan to buy firewood regularly. It saves me the cost of renting a truck or paying for delivery.

Storage Costs: Protecting Your Investment

Proper storage is essential for keeping your firewood dry and preventing rot. This can involve building a woodshed, covering the wood with a tarp, or using a combination of both.

Woodshed Construction: Building a woodshed can be a significant investment. The cost depends on the size and materials you use. A basic woodshed can be built for a few hundred dollars, while a more elaborate structure can cost thousands.

Tarp Costs: A heavy-duty tarp is a more affordable option for protecting your firewood from the elements. Expect to pay $20 to $50 for a good quality tarp.

Pallet Costs: Using pallets to elevate your firewood off the ground is a cheap and effective way to improve airflow and prevent rot. You can often find pallets for free or for a small fee.

Space Considerations: Do you have enough space to store the firewood? If you live in an apartment or a small house, you may need to buy smaller quantities of wood more frequently.

The Cost of Neglect: Rot and Decay

Improper storage can lead to rot and decay, which reduces the heating value of the wood and makes it more difficult to burn. This is a hidden cost that many people overlook.

I once made the mistake of storing a large pile of firewood directly on the ground without a tarp. By the end of the winter, the bottom layer of wood was completely rotten and unusable. I learned a valuable lesson about the importance of proper storage.

Cost Optimization: Creative Storage Solutions

You don’t need to spend a fortune on firewood storage. There are many creative and affordable solutions:

Repurpose Old Materials: Use old pallets, shipping containers, or even discarded tires to create a storage platform.
Build a Lean-To: Construct a simple lean-to against the side of your house or garage.
Use a Tarp Strategically: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp, but leave the sides open for ventilation.

Firewood Fact #5: Permits and Regulations – Staying on the Right Side of the Law

In some areas, you may need a permit to cut firewood on public land. There may also be regulations regarding the type of wood you can burn and the distance you can transport it.

Firewood Permits: Public Land Access

Many national forests and state parks allow you to cut firewood for personal use, but you typically need a permit. The cost of a firewood permit varies depending on the location and the amount of wood you’re allowed to cut.

Permit Fees: Firewood permits can range from $20 to $100 or more.

Restrictions: Firewood permits often come with restrictions regarding the type of wood you can cut, the areas where you can cut, and the time of year you can cut.

Enforcement: Failure to obtain a permit can result in fines and other penalties.

Invasive Species Regulations: Preventing the Spread

Many areas have regulations in place to prevent the spread of invasive species, such as the emerald ash borer and the Asian longhorned beetle. These regulations may restrict the movement of firewood across state lines or even within a state.

Quarantine Zones: Some areas are designated as quarantine zones, where the movement of firewood is strictly prohibited.

Heat Treatment Requirements: Some regulations require firewood to be heat-treated before it can be transported.

“Buy it Where You Burn It”: A common recommendation is to buy firewood from a local source to minimize the risk of spreading invasive species.

Burning Restrictions: Air Quality Concerns

Some areas have restrictions on burning firewood during certain times of the year due to air quality concerns. These restrictions are often implemented during periods of high air pollution or when weather conditions are conducive to smoke accumulation.

Burn Bans: Some areas issue burn bans during periods of high fire danger.

Wood Stove Regulations: Some municipalities have regulations regarding the type of wood stoves that can be used.

The Cost of Compliance: Fines and Penalties

Failure to comply with firewood permits and regulations can result in fines, penalties, and even jail time. It’s essential to research the regulations in your area and ensure that you’re in compliance.

I always check with my local forest service before cutting firewood on public land. It’s a small investment of time that can save me a lot of trouble (and money) down the road.

Resourcefulness: Finding Reliable Information

Contact your local forest service, state park, or department of natural resources to obtain information about firewood permits and regulations in your area. You can also find information online.

Actionable Takeaways and Next Steps

Navigating the world of firewood can be complex, but understanding these five key facts will empower you to make informed decisions and save money. Here’s a recap and actionable steps:

Ricks vs. Cords: Always calculate the number of ricks in a cord based on the length of the wood. Don’t trust vague descriptions. Action: Ask the seller the length of the wood and do the math!
Wood Species Matters: Choose the right wood species for your needs and budget. Consider BTU value and creosote production. Action: Research the common wood species in your area and their BTU ratings.
Seasoning is Key: Buy seasoned wood or plan ahead and season your own. Use a moisture meter to ensure proper drying. Action: Invest in a moisture meter and learn how to stack firewood for optimal drying.
Cutting and Splitting Costs: Evaluate the cost of DIY vs. buying split based on your time, equipment, and physical ability. Action: Compare the cost of DIY vs. buying split in your area and factor in the value of your time.
Permits and Regulations: Comply with all applicable permits and regulations to avoid fines and protect the environment. Action: Contact your local forest service or department of natural resources to learn about firewood permits and regulations in your area.

By following these steps, you can ensure that you’re getting the most value for your money and that you’re burning firewood safely and responsibly.

Firewood isn’t just a fuel; it’s an investment. By understanding the nuances of measurement, species selection, seasoning, processing, and regulations, you can transform a seemingly simple task into a well-managed, cost-effective project. So go forth, stack wisely, and enjoy the warmth! Remember, a little knowledge goes a long way in the world of wood.