How Many Drive Links on a 20 Inch Bar? (5 Expert Tips)
Let’s talk chainsaws. More specifically, let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of chain length and drive links – a topic that often leaves even seasoned woodcutters scratching their heads. I understand the user’s intent in searching for “How Many Drive Links on a 20 Inch Bar? (5 Expert Tips)” is to find a definitive answer to this question, along with practical advice to ensure they select the correct chain for their chainsaw. They’re looking for accuracy, reliability, and expert guidance. So, let’s get to it.
Each piece serves a purpose, and if one layer is off, the whole system suffers. The chainsaw bar and chain are no different. The bar length, often given in inches, is a starting point, but the real key to a proper fit lies in the number of drive links.
Why Drive Links Matter
The drive link is the part of the chain that engages with the sprocket on the chainsaw. Think of them as the teeth that grip and pull the chain around the bar. Too few drive links, and the chain won’t reach around the bar. Too many, and you’ll have a loose, floppy chain that’s a safety hazard.
The Golden Question: How Many Drive Links on a 20-Inch Bar?
The simple answer is: it varies. While a 20-inch bar is a common size, there’s no universal standard for the number of drive links. The exact number depends on the chainsaw manufacturer, the specific model, and the chain pitch and gauge.
Here’s a breakdown:
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Most common range: For a 20-inch bar, you’ll typically find chains with 72 drive links. However, this is just a starting point.
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Factors influencing the number:
- Chain pitch: Common pitches are 3/8″ and .325″. These different pitches will require different amounts of drive links.
- Chain gauge: This refers to the thickness of the drive links. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″.
- Bar manufacturer: Different bar manufacturers might have slightly different specifications, affecting the required number of drive links.
My Personal Experience: A Lesson Learned the Hard Way
I remember the first time I tried to replace the chain on my old Husqvarna. I assumed a 20-inch bar always meant the same number of drive links. I bought a chain with 72 links, slapped it on, and… it was way too loose. After some head-scratching and a trip back to the store, I learned the hard way that I needed to check the specific requirements for my saw. The correct chain had 76 drive links. This is why I now emphasize doing your research!
5 Expert Tips for Finding the Right Number of Drive Links
Here are my top tips, honed over years of working with chainsaws, to ensure you get the right chain every time.
Tip 1: Consult Your Chainsaw’s Manual
This is the most reliable way to determine the correct number of drive links. The manual should specify the recommended chain length, pitch, and gauge for your specific chainsaw model.
- What to look for in the manual:
- Chain specifications: This section will usually list the recommended chain size, including the number of drive links.
- Bar and chain compatibility chart: Some manuals include a chart that lists compatible bar and chain combinations.
- Troubleshooting section: This might contain information about chain selection and common problems.
Tip 2: Check the Existing Chain
If you still have the old chain, count the number of drive links. This is a foolproof way to ensure you get the correct replacement.
- How to count drive links:
- Lay the chain flat on a surface.
- Start at one drive link and carefully count each one until you reach the starting point.
- Double-check your count to avoid errors.
Tip 3: Look for Markings on the Chainsaw Bar
Many chainsaw bars have markings that indicate the recommended chain size. This might include the chain pitch, gauge, and the number of drive links.
- Where to find the markings:
- Near the mounting end of the bar: This is the most common location.
- Etched or stamped into the bar: The markings might be small, so look closely.
Tip 4: Use an Online Chain Finder Tool
Several websites offer chain finder tools that allow you to input your chainsaw’s make and model to find the correct chain specifications.
- What to ask:
- “I have a [chainsaw make and model] with a 20-inch bar. What chain do I need?”
- “Can you help me verify the chain pitch and gauge for my chainsaw?”
- “What are the different chain options available for my chainsaw?”
Diving Deeper: The Technical Aspects of Chainsaw Chains
Understanding the technical specifications of chainsaw chains is crucial for ensuring optimal performance and safety. Let’s break down the key elements.
Chain Pitch
The chain pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. It’s measured in inches and is a critical factor in chain selection.
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Common chain pitches:
- 3/8″ pitch: This is a common pitch for larger chainsaws used for felling trees and cutting large logs.
- .325″ pitch: This is a popular choice for mid-sized chainsaws used for general-purpose cutting.
- 1/4″ pitch: This is typically used on smaller chainsaws for pruning and light-duty tasks.
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Why pitch matters: The pitch of the chain must match the pitch of the drive sprocket on the chainsaw. Using the wrong pitch can damage the chainsaw and create a safety hazard.
Chain Gauge
The chain gauge is the thickness of the drive links where they fit into the groove of the chainsaw bar. It’s also measured in inches.
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Common chain gauges:
- .050″ gauge: This is a common gauge for many chainsaws.
- .058″ gauge: This is slightly thicker than .050″ and is often used on larger chainsaws.
- .063″ gauge: This is the thickest common gauge and is typically used on professional-grade chainsaws.
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Why gauge matters: The gauge of the chain must match the width of the groove on the chainsaw bar. Using the wrong gauge can cause the chain to bind or come off the bar.
Chain Types
Different chain types are designed for specific cutting tasks. Understanding the different types can help you choose the best chain for your needs.
- Full chisel chain: This type of chain has square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and efficient at cutting through clean wood. However, they are more prone to damage from dirt and debris.
- Ideal for: Professional loggers and experienced users who are cutting clean wood.
- Semi-chisel chain: This type of chain has rounded-corner cutters that are more durable and forgiving than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting.
- Ideal for: Homeowners and occasional users who are cutting a variety of wood types.
- Low-profile chain: This type of chain has a smaller cutter design that reduces kickback. It’s a good choice for beginners and those who are concerned about safety.
- Ideal for: Beginners and users who are concerned about kickback.
- Ripping chain: This type of chain is designed for cutting wood parallel to the grain, such as when milling lumber. It has a different cutter angle than standard chains.
- Ideal for: Sawmill operators and those who are milling lumber.
Safety First: Chainsaw Chain Maintenance and Operation
Chainsaw safety is paramount. Proper chain maintenance and operation are essential for preventing accidents and ensuring optimal performance.
Chain Sharpening
A sharp chain is a safe chain. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which can increase the risk of kickback.
- How often to sharpen: Sharpen the chain every time you refuel the chainsaw, or more often if you notice it’s cutting slower or producing fine sawdust instead of chips.
- Tools for sharpening:
- Round file and file guide: This is the most common method for sharpening chainsaw chains.
- Electric chain sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method for sharpening chains.
- Bar-mounted chain sharpener: This is a convenient option for sharpening chains in the field.
- Sharpening technique:
- Secure the chainsaw in a vise.
- Use the round file and file guide to sharpen each cutter at the correct angle.
- Maintain the correct depth gauge setting.
- Check the chain for any damage or wear.
Chain Tension
Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient operation. A chain that is too loose can come off the bar, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break.
- How to check chain tension:
- Lift the chain away from the bar at the midpoint of the bar.
- The drive links should be able to pull out slightly, but not completely out of the bar groove.
- How to adjust chain tension:
- Loosen the bar nuts that secure the bar to the chainsaw.
- Use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension.
- Tighten the bar nuts securely.
Chain Lubrication
Proper chain lubrication is essential for reducing friction and wear on the chain and bar.
- Types of chain oil:
- Petroleum-based chain oil: This is the most common type of chain oil.
- Vegetable-based chain oil: This is a more environmentally friendly option.
- Synthetic chain oil: This is a high-performance option that provides excellent lubrication and protection.
- How to lubricate the chain:
- Fill the chain oil reservoir on the chainsaw.
- Adjust the chain oiler to the correct setting.
- Check the chain oil level regularly and refill as needed.
Safety Gear
Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw.
- Essential safety gear:
- Chainsaw chaps: These protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
- Eye protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Hearing protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
- Gloves: Gloves protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Steel-toed boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
- Helmet: A helmet protects your head from falling branches and other overhead hazards.
Wood Processing: From Log to Firewood
Chainsaws are essential tools for wood processing, whether you’re felling trees, bucking logs, or preparing firewood. Let’s explore some key aspects of wood processing.
Wood Selection
Choosing the right wood is crucial for firewood production. Hardwoods are generally preferred because they burn longer and produce more heat than softwoods.
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Hardwood vs. Softwood:
- Hardwoods: Oak, maple, ash, beech, and birch are all excellent choices for firewood. They have a high density and burn slowly.
- Oak: Known for its high heat output and long burn time. Oak can take longer to season properly.
- Maple: Another excellent choice with good heat output and relatively easy splitting.
- Ash: Burns cleanly and produces good heat. It also seasons relatively quickly.
- Softwoods: Pine, fir, spruce, and cedar are softwoods that burn quickly and produce less heat. They are best used for kindling or starting fires.
- Pine: Burns hot and fast, making it good for starting fires but not ideal for sustained heat. It also tends to produce more smoke and creosote.
- Fir: Similar to pine in its burning characteristics.
- Spruce: Burns quickly and doesn’t produce as much heat as hardwoods.
- Hardwoods: Oak, maple, ash, beech, and birch are all excellent choices for firewood. They have a high density and burn slowly.
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Wood Density: The density of wood affects its heat output and burn time. Denser woods contain more energy per unit volume.
- High Density: Oak, maple, hickory
- Medium Density: Ash, beech, birch
- Low Density: Pine, fir, spruce
Log Dimensions
Understanding log dimensions is important for efficient wood processing and firewood preparation.
- Log Diameter: The diameter of the log affects the splitting difficulty and the size of the firewood pieces.
- Small Diameter (6-12 inches): Easier to split and suitable for smaller stoves or fireplaces.
- Medium Diameter (12-18 inches): Requires more effort to split but provides larger firewood pieces.
- Large Diameter (18+ inches): May require a hydraulic log splitter or specialized tools.
- Log Length: The length of the log affects the ease of handling and the size of the firewood pieces.
- Standard Firewood Length (16 inches): A common length for firewood that fits most stoves and fireplaces.
- Custom Lengths: Adjust the length to suit your specific stove or fireplace.
Wood Moisture Content
The moisture content of wood is a critical factor in its burning efficiency. Green wood contains a high amount of moisture, which reduces its heat output and increases smoke production.
- Ideal Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less.
- Seasoning Process: Seasoning is the process of drying wood to reduce its moisture content.
- Drying Time: Seasoning typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the wood type, climate, and storage conditions.
- Storage Conditions: Store firewood in a well-ventilated area, off the ground, and covered to protect it from rain and snow.
- Measuring Moisture Content:
- Moisture Meter: A moisture meter is a tool used to measure the moisture content of wood.
- Visual Inspection: Seasoned wood will be lighter in color and have cracks on the ends.
- Sound Test: Seasoned wood will produce a hollow sound when struck.
Splitting Wood
Splitting wood is a necessary step in firewood preparation.
- Tools for Splitting:
- Axe: A traditional tool for splitting wood.
- Maul: A heavier tool than an axe, designed for splitting larger logs.
- Hydraulic Log Splitter: A powered tool that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs.
- Splitting Technique:
- Choose a safe and stable location for splitting.
- Position the log on a chopping block.
- Use a sharp axe or maul to split the log along the grain.
- Wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection and gloves.
Stacking Firewood
Proper stacking of firewood is essential for efficient drying and storage.
- Stacking Methods:
- Criss-Cross Stack: A stable and well-ventilated stacking method.
- Row Stack: A simple and space-efficient stacking method.
- Circular Stack: A visually appealing stacking method that provides good ventilation.
- Stacking Tips:
- Stack firewood off the ground to prevent moisture absorption.
- Leave space between rows for ventilation.
- Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
Case Study: Firewood Production on a Small Scale
I once helped a friend set up a small-scale firewood production operation on his property. He had a limited budget and needed to maximize efficiency.
- Challenges:
- Limited Budget: He couldn’t afford expensive equipment.
- Small Property: Space was limited for wood storage.
- Inexperienced Labor: He had no prior experience in firewood production.
- Solutions:
- Used Equipment: We purchased a used chainsaw and a manual log splitter.
- Efficient Stacking: We used a criss-cross stacking method to maximize ventilation and minimize space.
- Training and Safety: I provided training on chainsaw safety and wood splitting techniques.
- Results:
- Increased Efficiency: He was able to produce enough firewood to heat his home and sell the excess.
- Cost Savings: He saved money on heating bills and generated additional income.
- Improved Safety: He learned how to operate a chainsaw safely and efficiently.
- Technical Details:
- Chainsaw: Husqvarna 455 Rancher with a 20-inch bar (72 drive links).
- Log Splitter: Manual hydraulic log splitter.
- Wood Moisture Content: Achieved an average moisture content of 18% after 10 months of seasoning.
Industry Standards and Regulations
Staying informed about industry standards and regulations is important for ensuring compliance and safety.
- Forestry Regulations: Check with your local forestry agency for regulations regarding tree felling and wood harvesting.
- Safety Standards: Adhere to safety standards set by organizations such as OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration).
- Environmental Regulations: Follow environmental regulations regarding waste disposal and emissions.
