How Do You Measure a Chain for a Chainsaw? (Expert Sizing Tips)
Measuring a chainsaw chain might seem like a trivial task, but trust me, getting it right is crucial for the performance, safety, and longevity of your chainsaw. I’ve spent years felling trees, bucking logs, and preparing firewood, and I’ve seen firsthand the frustration (and potential danger) of using the wrong size chain. A properly fitted chain ensures efficient cutting, reduces wear on your bar and sprocket, and minimizes the risk of kickback. In this guide, I’ll share my expert sizing tips, breaking down the process into easy-to-follow steps, so you can confidently select the right chain for your chainsaw.
Why Accurate Chainsaw Chain Measurement Matters
Think of your chainsaw as a finely tuned engine. Every part needs to work in harmony for optimal performance. The chain is a critical component, and its size directly impacts how well your chainsaw cuts, how safely it operates, and how long it lasts.
- Performance: A chain that’s too loose can jump off the bar, causing damage and potentially injuring you. A chain that’s too tight can bind, putting excessive strain on the motor and bar, leading to premature wear and tear.
- Safety: An improperly sized chain is a significant safety hazard. A loose chain increases the risk of kickback, a sudden and forceful backward movement of the chainsaw that can cause serious injury.
- Longevity: Using the correct chain size ensures even wear on the bar and sprocket, extending their lifespan and saving you money in the long run.
Key Chainsaw Chain Concepts & Definitions
Before diving into the measuring process, let’s define some key terms:
- Pitch: The distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. It’s essentially the size of the chain and determines which chainsaws it will fit. Common pitches include 0.325″, 3/8″ (0.375″), and 0.404″.
- Gauge: The thickness of the drive links (the part of the chain that sits in the groove of the bar). It must match the bar groove width. Common gauges include 0.043″, 0.050″, 0.058″, and 0.063″.
- Drive Links: The number of drive links is the total number of these links that fit into the guide bar groove. This number is crucial for ordering the correct length of chain.
- Guide Bar: The metal blade that the chain runs around. The length of the guide bar is often used as a general indicator of chain size, but it’s not a definitive measurement.
- Sprocket: The toothed wheel that drives the chain around the bar. The sprocket pitch must match the chain pitch.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Measure Your Chainsaw Chain
I’ve found that the best way to ensure you get the right chain is to follow a systematic approach. Here’s my step-by-step guide:
Step 1: Gather Your Tools
You’ll need the following tools:
- Your Chainsaw: Obviously!
- Gloves: For safety and grip.
- Measuring Tape or Ruler: Preferably with both inches and millimeters.
- Screwdriver or Chain Tool: To remove the chain.
- Calipers (Optional): For precise gauge measurement.
- Paper and Pen: To record your measurements.
Step 2: Identify the Information Stamped on Your Guide Bar (If Available)
Many guide bars have the chain pitch and gauge stamped on them. Look closely near the base of the bar, where it attaches to the chainsaw. You might find something like “.325 .050″ which means 0.325″ pitch and 0.050” gauge.
Personal Experience: I remember once struggling to identify the chain size for an old chainsaw I inherited. The bar was worn, and the markings were barely visible. After cleaning it thoroughly with a wire brush, I finally found the faint imprint – a lifesaver!
Step 3: Remove the Old Chain (If Applicable)
If you have an old chain, remove it from the chainsaw. This makes it easier to measure the pitch and gauge.
- Safety First: Ensure the chainsaw is turned off and the spark plug is disconnected.
- Loosen the Bar: Use a wrench or screwdriver to loosen the bar nuts that hold the bar cover in place.
- Remove the Cover: Carefully remove the bar cover.
- Detach the Chain: Gently lift the chain off the bar, starting at the sprocket.
Step 4: Determine the Chain Pitch
The pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. Here’s how to measure it:
- Select Three Rivets: Choose three consecutive rivets on the chain.
- Measure the Distance: Measure the distance between the first and third rivet.
- Divide by Two: Divide the measurement by two to get the pitch.
Example:
Let’s say the distance between the first and third rivet is 3/4 inch (0.75 inches).
Pitch = 0.75 inches / 2 = 0.375 inches
This means the chain pitch is 3/8″ (0.375″).
Alternative Method:
If you have a pitch gauge tool, you can simply place it on the chain to determine the pitch. These gauges are inexpensive and can be found at most chainsaw supply stores.
Step 5: Determine the Chain Gauge
The gauge is the thickness of the drive links. This measurement is critical because the drive links must fit snugly into the groove of the guide bar.
- Measure the Drive Link: Use calipers to measure the thickness of a drive link.
- Match the Bar Groove: The gauge should match the width of the groove in your guide bar.
Common Gauges:
- 0.043″ (1.1 mm)
- 0.050″ (1.3 mm)
- 0.058″ (1.5 mm)
- 0.063″ (1.6 mm)
Tip: If you don’t have calipers, you can use a feeler gauge to measure the width of the bar groove.
Step 6: Count the Number of Drive Links
The number of drive links determines the overall length of the chain.
- Lay the Chain Flat: Place the chain on a flat surface.
- Count Each Link: Carefully count each drive link. Start at one end and work your way to the other.
Important Note: Be precise with your counting. Even one or two drive links can make a difference in whether the chain fits properly.
Personal Story: I once miscounted the drive links on a chain and ended up with one that was too short. It wouldn’t fit around the bar, and I had to return it to the store. Lesson learned: double-check your count!
Step 7: Record Your Measurements
Write down the following information:
- Pitch: (e.g., 0.325″, 3/8″, 0.404″)
- Gauge: (e.g., 0.043″, 0.050″, 0.058″, 0.063″)
- Number of Drive Links: (e.g., 64, 72, 81)
Step 8: Consult Your Chainsaw’s Manual
Your chainsaw’s manual should specify the correct chain pitch, gauge, and number of drive links for your model. This is the most reliable source of information.
Step 9: Purchase the Correct Chain
Armed with your measurements, you can now purchase the correct chain. Be sure to double-check the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links before you buy.
Where to Buy:
- Local Chainsaw Dealers: Offer expert advice and a wide selection of chains.
- Hardware Stores: Carry a variety of chains for common chainsaw models.
- Online Retailers: Provide competitive prices and convenient shopping.
Understanding Chainsaw Chain Types
Chainsaw chains come in various types, each designed for specific cutting tasks. Here’s a brief overview:
- Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters and are the fastest cutting chains. They are best suited for clean wood and require more sharpening skill.
- Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded-corner cutters and are more forgiving than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for cutting dirty or knotty wood.
- Low-Profile: These chains are designed for smaller chainsaws and are known for their reduced kickback potential.
- Ripping Chains: These chains are specifically designed for cutting wood along the grain (ripping). They have a different cutter angle than cross-cutting chains.
Recommendation: For general firewood cutting, I recommend a semi-chisel chain. It’s a good balance of cutting speed and durability.
Maintaining Your Chainsaw Chain
Proper chain maintenance is essential for safety and performance. Here are some tips:
- Sharpen Regularly: A sharp chain cuts more efficiently and reduces the risk of kickback. Use a chainsaw file or a chain grinder to sharpen your chain. I prefer to sharpen my chains after every few tanks of gas, or whenever I notice the chain is not cutting as smoothly as it should.
- Lubricate the Chain: Always use chainsaw bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain. This reduces friction and wear. I always check the oil level before starting any cutting task.
- Tension the Chain: The chain should be snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. Adjust the chain tension regularly, especially when the chain is new. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to pull the chain about 1/8″ to 1/4″ away from the bar at its midpoint.
- Clean the Chain: Remove sawdust and debris from the chain regularly. This prevents the chain from binding and reduces wear.
- Store Properly: When not in use, store the chain in a container of oil to prevent rust.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Guessing the Size: Never guess the chain size. Always measure accurately or consult your chainsaw’s manual.
- Ignoring Wear: Replace the chain when it’s worn or damaged. A worn chain is a safety hazard.
- Using the Wrong Oil: Always use chainsaw bar and chain oil. Other types of oil can damage the chain and bar.
- Over-Tightening the Chain: Over-tightening the chain can cause it to bind and wear prematurely.
- Neglecting Sharpening: A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous.
Chainsaw Safety: A Paramount Concern
Working with chainsaws is inherently dangerous. Always prioritize safety.
- Wear Protective Gear: Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and a helmet.
- Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with your chainsaw’s manual and safety instructions.
- Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep bystanders at least twice the length of the bar away from the cutting area.
- Be Aware of Kickback: Understand the causes of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
- Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: This increases the risk of losing control of the chainsaw.
- Avoid Cutting in Unstable Positions: Ensure you have a firm footing before starting to cut.
- Don’t Cut Alone: Always work with a partner in case of an emergency.
- Take Breaks: Fatigue can lead to mistakes. Take regular breaks to rest and rehydrate.
- Inspect Your Equipment: Before each use, inspect your chainsaw for any damage or wear.
- Use Proper Felling Techniques: If you’re felling trees, use proper felling techniques to ensure the tree falls in the desired direction. This often involves making a notch cut and a back cut.
Case Study: The Importance of Chain Tension
I once witnessed a fellow firewood cutter experience a near-miss due to improper chain tension. He was using a chainsaw to buck logs into firewood lengths when the chain suddenly jumped off the bar. Fortunately, he was wearing proper safety gear, including chaps, which protected his legs from injury. The cause of the incident was a loose chain that had not been properly tensioned. This incident served as a stark reminder of the importance of proper chain maintenance and safety precautions.
Chainsaw Chain and Wood Types
The type of wood you’re cutting can also influence your choice of chainsaw chain and how frequently you need to sharpen it.
- Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): These woods are generally easier to cut and don’t dull the chain as quickly. Full chisel chains work well on softwoods.
- Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash): These woods are denser and more abrasive, which can dull the chain more quickly. Semi-chisel chains are a good choice for hardwoods.
- Green Wood: Green wood (freshly cut wood) contains a lot of moisture, which can make it more difficult to cut. It’s important to keep your chain sharp when cutting green wood.
- Seasoned Wood: Seasoned wood (wood that has been dried) is easier to cut than green wood.
Data from My Experience:
I’ve tracked the sharpening frequency of my chainsaw chains over several years of cutting different types of wood. I found that I needed to sharpen my chain about twice as often when cutting oak compared to pine. This highlights the importance of considering the wood type when choosing a chain and planning your maintenance schedule.
Strategic Insights for Efficient Wood Processing
Beyond simply measuring the chain, there are strategic considerations that can significantly improve your wood processing efficiency.
- Matching the Chainsaw to the Task: Using a small chainsaw for large trees is inefficient and potentially dangerous. Choose a chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the size of the wood you’re cutting.
- Optimizing Chain Speed: Adjust the chainsaw’s throttle to maintain a consistent chain speed. Cutting too slowly can cause the chain to bind, while cutting too quickly can lead to premature wear.
- Using a Log Splitter: For processing large quantities of firewood, a log splitter can significantly reduce the amount of manual labor required. Hydraulic log splitters are particularly efficient.
- Stacking Firewood Properly: Proper firewood stacking promotes air circulation, which helps the wood dry more quickly. Stack the wood in rows, with gaps between the rows to allow for airflow.
Drying Firewood: The Key to Efficient Burning
The moisture content of firewood is a critical factor in its burning efficiency. Green wood contains a lot of moisture, which makes it difficult to ignite and burns inefficiently. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has a lower moisture content and burns hotter and cleaner.
- Drying Time: The drying time for firewood varies depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. In general, hardwoods take longer to dry than softwoods.
- Moisture Content Targets: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood.
- Drying Methods: The most common method for drying firewood is air drying. This involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally.
My Firewood Drying Setup:
I have a dedicated firewood drying area in my backyard. It consists of several rows of stacked firewood, with gaps between the rows for air circulation. I cover the top of the stacks with tarps to protect the wood from rain and snow. I typically allow my firewood to dry for at least six months, and often longer, depending on the type of wood.
Cost Considerations in Wood Processing
Wood processing can involve significant costs, including the cost of equipment, fuel, and maintenance.
- Chainsaw Costs: Chainsaw prices range from a few hundred dollars for small models to several thousand dollars for professional-grade models.
- Fuel Costs: Chainsaws typically run on a mixture of gasoline and oil. Fuel costs can add up quickly, especially if you’re using your chainsaw frequently.
- Maintenance Costs: Chainsaw maintenance includes sharpening the chain, replacing worn parts, and performing regular tune-ups.
- Log Splitter Costs: Log splitters range in price from a few hundred dollars for manual models to several thousand dollars for hydraulic models.
Budgeting for Wood Processing:
When budgeting for wood processing, it’s important to consider all of the potential costs involved. Create a detailed budget that includes the cost of equipment, fuel, maintenance, and any other expenses.
Final Thoughts and Next Steps
Measuring your chainsaw chain accurately is a fundamental skill for anyone involved in wood processing or firewood preparation. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can ensure that you select the correct chain for your chainsaw, maximizing its performance, safety, and longevity.
Next Steps:
- Measure Your Chain: Take the time to measure your current chainsaw chain and record the pitch, gauge, and number of drive links.
- Consult Your Manual: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual to confirm the correct chain size.
- Purchase a New Chain: If your current chain is worn or damaged, purchase a new chain that matches the specifications in your manual.
- Practice Chain Maintenance: Develop a regular chain maintenance routine, including sharpening, lubrication, and tensioning.
- Prioritize Safety: Always prioritize safety when working with chainsaws. Wear protective gear, read the manual, and be aware of the risks.
By taking these steps, you can ensure that you’re using your chainsaw safely and efficiently, whether you’re felling trees, bucking logs, or preparing firewood. Happy cutting!
