Honey Locust Wood Furniture (5 Expert Tips for Durable Craftsmanship)

Let’s bust a myth right away: Honey locust wood is not just for thorny fence posts and painful encounters in the woods. While its thorns are notorious, the wood itself is a hidden gem, offering incredible durability and beauty for furniture making. I’ve seen too many woodworkers shy away from it, intimidated by the thorns, and completely missing out on a fantastic resource.

I’m going to guide you through the process of crafting durable honey locust wood furniture, sharing five expert tips I’ve learned through years of working with this often-overlooked species. This isn’t just theory; it’s based on hands-on experience, overcoming challenges, and discovering the unique characteristics of honey locust that make it ideal for long-lasting furniture.

Honey Locust Wood Furniture (5 Expert Tips for Durable Craftsmanship)

Honey locust, with its distinctive reddish-brown heartwood and creamy sapwood, offers a unique aesthetic that can elevate any piece of furniture. But beyond its beauty, it’s the wood’s inherent strength and resistance to decay that truly set it apart. This guide is designed to equip you with the knowledge and skills to harness these qualities, creating heirloom-quality furniture that will stand the test of time.

Understanding Honey Locust: A Woodworker’s Perspective

Before we dive into the specifics of furniture making, let’s establish a solid understanding of honey locust as a woodworking material.

What is Honey Locust? Gleditsia triacanthos, commonly known as honey locust, is a deciduous tree native to North America. It’s known for its rapid growth and, of course, its formidable thorns, which can grow up to a foot long in some cases. While the thorns are a pain (literally!), the wood beneath is well worth the effort.

Key Characteristics:

• Hardness: Honey locust boasts a Janka hardness rating of around 1750 lbf (pounds-force). This puts it in the same league as hard maple and significantly harder than red oak (around 1290 lbf). This hardness translates to excellent resistance to dents and scratches, a crucial factor for furniture durability.
• Durability: The heartwood of honey locust is naturally resistant to decay and insect infestation. This is due to the presence of extractives that act as natural preservatives. While not as resistant as black locust (another fantastic and even harder wood), honey locust still offers excellent longevity, especially when properly finished.
• Stability: Honey locust is generally considered stable once properly dried, meaning it doesn’t warp or twist excessively. However, it’s essential to dry it correctly to minimize movement.
• Grain and Figure: The grain of honey locust is typically straight, but it can also exhibit interesting variations like curl or fiddleback. The reddish-brown heartwood provides a warm, inviting color that deepens with age. The sapwood is a lighter cream color and can be used to create contrasting accents.
• Workability: While hard, honey locust is generally workable with both hand and power tools. It glues well and takes finishes beautifully. However, its hardness can make it slightly more challenging to nail or screw without pre-drilling.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: This is a critical distinction. Green wood is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often above 30%). Seasoned wood (also called dried wood) has been dried to a lower moisture content, typically between 6-12% for furniture making. Working with green wood is generally easier for shaping and carving, but it will shrink and potentially warp as it dries. Seasoned wood is more stable but requires sharper tools and more effort to work. For furniture, seasoned wood is almost always the preferred choice for structural components.

My Personal Experience: I remember one of my first projects with honey locust. I salvaged a fallen tree from a local farm. I was so eager to get started that I didn’t properly dry the wood. The resulting table looked great initially, but within a few months, it developed significant cracks and warping. It was a painful lesson, but it taught me the importance of proper drying.

Tip #1: Thorn Removal and Initial Processing: Taming the Beast

The first hurdle with honey locust is dealing with the thorns. Here’s my tried-and-true method:

Step 1: Safety First! Wear heavy-duty gloves, eye protection, and long sleeves. These thorns are sharp and can easily penetrate clothing.

Step 2: Initial Limb Removal: Use a chainsaw (I prefer a Stihl MS 261 for its balance of power and maneuverability, but a smaller saw like the MS 170 will work for smaller trees) to remove the thorny branches. Cut as close to the trunk as possible.

Step 3: Thorn Removal Techniques:

• Axe or Hatchet: For smaller thorns, a sharp axe or hatchet can be used to chop them off. Aim for a clean cut at the base of the thorn.
• Pliers or Nippers: For larger thorns, pliers or nippers provide more control. Grip the thorn firmly at its base and twist or pull it off.
• Drawknife: For larger logs that will be used for slabs, a drawknife can be used to shave off the bark and thorns simultaneously. This is a more efficient method for preparing larger pieces.

Step 4: Debarking (Optional): If you plan to use the wood for furniture, debarking is generally recommended. This removes the outer layer of bark, which can harbor insects and decay. A debarking spud or drawknife can be used for this task.

Step 5: Initial Milling: Use a chainsaw mill (I’ve had good experiences with Granberg chainsaw mills) or hire a local sawmill to mill the logs into boards or slabs. The dimensions will depend on your intended project.

Example: I was once commissioned to build a honey locust dining table from a single slab. The tree had exceptionally large thorns, some over 8 inches long. I spent an entire day just removing the thorns before I could even begin milling the log. It was tedious, but the resulting table was stunning.

Strategic Advantage: Thorough thorn removal and initial processing are crucial for safety and ease of handling throughout the rest of the project.

Tip #2: Mastering the Art of Drying Honey Locust: Preventing Cracks and Warping

Proper drying is paramount for honey locust. Here’s how I approach it:

Step 1: Understanding Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter (I recommend a Wagner MMC220 for its accuracy) to measure the moisture content of the wood. Green honey locust can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. You need to bring this down to around 6-8% for indoor furniture.

Step 2: Air Drying: Air drying is a cost-effective method, but it takes time.

• Stacking: Stack the boards or slabs with stickers (thin strips of wood) between each layer to allow for air circulation. Stickers should be placed every 12-18 inches.
• Location: Choose a well-ventilated, shaded area. Direct sunlight can cause the wood to dry too quickly and crack.
• End Sealing: Apply an end sealant (like Anchorseal) to the ends of the boards to prevent end checking (cracking).
• Timing: Air drying can take several months to a year or more, depending on the thickness of the wood and the climate. Expect roughly one year per inch of thickness.

Step 3: Kiln Drying (Recommended): Kiln drying is a faster and more controlled method.

• Professional Kiln: If you have access to a local kiln operator, this is the most reliable option. They will control the temperature and humidity to dry the wood evenly.
• DIY Kiln: You can build a small solar kiln or use a dehumidifier kiln for smaller projects.
• Schedule: A typical kiln schedule for honey locust might involve starting at a low temperature (around 100°F) and gradually increasing it over several weeks.

Step 4: Monitoring: Regularly check the moisture content of the wood with your moisture meter. The goal is to reach a moisture content of 6-8%.

Example: I built a small solar kiln using plans I found online. It was a simple structure made from wood and plastic sheeting, with a fan to circulate the air. It took about 2 months to dry a batch of honey locust boards in the summer. While not as precise as a commercial kiln, it was a cost-effective way to dry smaller quantities of wood.

Case Study: I had a client who insisted on using green honey locust for a bench. Despite my warnings, he proceeded with the project. Within weeks, the bench developed large cracks and became unstable. He eventually had to replace it with properly dried wood. This highlights the critical importance of drying.

Strategic Advantage: Proper drying minimizes the risk of warping, cracking, and other defects, ensuring the longevity and stability of your furniture.

Tip #3: Tool Selection and Techniques for Working with Hardwoods: Sharpening Your Skills

Honey locust is a hard wood, so using the right tools and techniques is essential.

Tool Recommendations:

• Chainsaw: As mentioned before, a Stihl MS 261 or similar is a good all-around choice for felling and milling.
• Hand Saw: A high-quality hand saw with fine teeth is essential for precision cuts. I prefer Japanese pull saws like those from Veritas.
• Planes: A sharp smoothing plane (like a Lie-Nielsen #4) is crucial for creating smooth, flat surfaces.
• Chisels: A set of sharp chisels is essential for joinery and detail work.
• Drills and Drivers: A cordless drill/driver with a variety of bits is necessary for drilling pilot holes and driving screws.
• Router: A router can be used for shaping edges, cutting dados, and creating decorative details.
• Jointers and Planers: If you have access to a jointer and planer, they will greatly speed up the process of preparing boards.
• Log Splitter: If you are processing firewood, a hydraulic log splitter is a must. I use a 25-ton splitter, which easily handles even the toughest honey locust rounds.

Techniques:

• Sharp Tools: This cannot be stressed enough. Dull tools will tear the wood fibers and make it much harder to work with. Invest in good sharpening equipment and learn how to use it.
• Pre-Drilling: Always pre-drill pilot holes before driving screws or nails. This will prevent the wood from splitting.
• Clamping: Use plenty of clamps to hold pieces together during gluing and assembly.
• Light Passes: When using power tools, take light passes to avoid tear-out.
• Grain Direction: Pay attention to the grain direction when planing or chiseling. Always work with the grain to avoid tear-out.

Example: I was building a honey locust coffee table with mortise and tenon joinery. Because the wood was so hard, I had to be extra careful when chiseling the mortises. I used a very sharp chisel and took small, controlled cuts to avoid splitting the wood.

Strategic Advantage: Using the right tools and techniques will save you time, reduce frustration, and improve the quality of your work.

Tip #4: Joinery and Assembly: Building for the Long Haul

Strong joinery is essential for durable furniture. Here are some of my preferred methods for honey locust:

Joinery Options:

• Mortise and Tenon: This is a classic and incredibly strong joint. It involves cutting a mortise (a hole) in one piece of wood and a tenon (a projecting tongue) on the other. The tenon fits into the mortise and is secured with glue.
• Dovetails: Dovetails are another very strong joint that is often used for drawers and boxes. They are interlocking joints that resist pulling apart.
• Lap Joints: Lap joints are simple and strong. They involve overlapping two pieces of wood and securing them with glue and screws.
• Pocket Hole Joinery: Pocket hole joinery is a faster and easier method that uses angled screws to join the pieces. It’s not as strong as mortise and tenon or dovetails, but it’s suitable for many applications.
• Floating Tenons (Dominoes): Using a Festool Domino joiner to create mortises for floating tenons is a fast and accurate way to create strong joints.

Assembly Techniques:

• Dry Fit: Always dry fit the pieces together before applying glue. This allows you to check the fit and make any necessary adjustments.
• Glue Selection: Use a high-quality wood glue that is appropriate for the type of joint you are using. I prefer Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue for its strength and water resistance.
• Clamping: Use plenty of clamps to hold the pieces together while the glue dries. Apply even pressure to ensure a strong bond.
• Hardware: Use high-quality screws, bolts, and other hardware.

Example: I built a honey locust bed frame using mortise and tenon joinery for the headboard and footboard. I used large, beefy tenons to ensure the frame would be strong enough to support the weight of the mattress and occupants.

Strategic Advantage: Strong joinery ensures that your furniture will withstand years of use and abuse.

Tip #5: Finishing and Protection: Enhancing Beauty and Longevity

The finish is the final touch that protects the wood and enhances its beauty.

Finishing Options:

• Oil Finishes: Oil finishes (like linseed oil or tung oil) penetrate the wood and provide a natural look and feel. They are easy to apply and repair, but they don’t offer as much protection as other finishes.
• Varnish: Varnish is a durable finish that provides excellent protection against scratches, water, and chemicals. It’s available in a variety of sheens, from matte to gloss.
• Lacquer: Lacquer is a fast-drying finish that provides a hard, durable surface. It’s often used for furniture that will see heavy use.
• Polyurethane: Polyurethane is a synthetic finish that is very durable and water-resistant. It’s a good choice for furniture that will be exposed to moisture.
• Water-Based Finishes: Water-based finishes are environmentally friendly and easy to clean up. They are becoming increasingly popular and offer excellent durability.

Application Techniques:

• Sanding: Sand the wood smooth before applying the finish. Start with a coarser grit (like 120) and gradually work your way up to a finer grit (like 220).
• Sealing: Apply a sealer to the wood before applying the finish. This will help to prevent the finish from soaking into the wood unevenly.
• Multiple Coats: Apply multiple thin coats of finish, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next.
• Sanding Between Coats: Sand lightly between coats of finish to remove any imperfections.
• Buffing: Buff the final coat of finish to create a smooth, even sheen.

Example: I finished a honey locust dining table with a hand-rubbed oil finish. I applied several coats of tung oil, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. The oil finish brought out the natural beauty of the wood and provided a warm, inviting feel.

Strategic Advantage: A good finish protects the wood from damage, enhances its beauty, and extends its lifespan.

Final Thoughts and Considerations:

• Cost: Honey locust lumber can be more expensive than some other hardwoods, depending on its availability in your area. However, its durability and beauty make it a worthwhile investment.
• Sustainability: Consider sourcing honey locust from sustainable sources. Look for lumber that is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC).
• Safety: Always wear appropriate safety gear when working with wood, including eye protection, hearing protection, and a dust mask.

Next Steps:

Now that you have a solid understanding of how to work with honey locust, it’s time to start your own furniture project. Begin by sourcing your lumber, drying it properly, and selecting the right tools and techniques. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes. With practice and patience, you can create beautiful and durable honey locust furniture that will last for generations.

Remember that fallen tree I salvaged and didn’t dry properly? I eventually salvaged it! I carefully recut the warped pieces into smaller components and used them to build a series of small boxes and decorative items. It was a way to learn from my initial mistake and still make use of the beautiful wood. Don’t be afraid to adapt and find creative solutions! Good luck, and happy woodworking!

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