Honey Locust Furniture (5 Expert Uses for Durable Wood)

Let’s dive into the world of honey locust, a wood renowned for its durability and unique character. As someone who’s spent years felling trees, milling lumber, and crafting with wood, I’ve developed a deep appreciation for this often-overlooked species. From the initial cut in the forest to the final polish on a piece of furniture, I’ll guide you through the process of using honey locust for crafting durable and beautiful items.

Honey Locust: A Durable Woodworker’s Secret

Honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos) isn’t your typical furniture wood. It’s tough, rot-resistant, and possesses a distinct grain pattern that can add a touch of rustic elegance to any project. Its durability makes it ideal for projects that need to withstand the elements or heavy use.

I remember one project in particular, building a set of outdoor benches for a local park. The park commission wanted something that wouldn’t rot easily and could handle the constant wear and tear of public use. Honey locust was my top recommendation, and years later, those benches are still standing strong, a testament to the wood’s inherent resilience.

What Makes Honey Locust So Durable?

The secret to honey locust’s durability lies in its density and natural oils. It’s a hardwood, meaning it has a tight grain structure that resists dents and scratches. The presence of natural oils also makes it resistant to decay and insect infestation. This inherent durability translates to a longer lifespan for your furniture, saving you time and money in the long run.

• Density: Typically around 44 lbs per cubic foot (air-dried), making it comparable to oak.
• Rot Resistance: Rated as very durable to durable, depending on the specific heartwood content.
• Grain Pattern: Offers a unique combination of straight and swirling grain, adding visual interest.

Key Concepts: Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Before we delve into specific projects, it’s crucial to understand the difference between green wood and seasoned wood.

• Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It’s easier to work with hand tools because it’s softer. However, as it dries, it shrinks and can warp or crack.
• Seasoned Wood: This is wood that has been dried to a stable moisture content. It’s harder to work with but much more stable, making it ideal for furniture making.

The ideal moisture content for furniture making is typically between 6% and 8%. This level ensures minimal shrinkage and warping after the project is completed.

5 Expert Uses for Honey Locust Furniture

Now, let’s explore five projects where honey locust’s durability shines.

1. Outdoor Benches and Picnic Tables

As I mentioned earlier, honey locust is an excellent choice for outdoor furniture. Its resistance to rot and insects makes it ideal for benches, picnic tables, and other pieces that will be exposed to the elements.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Sourcing the Wood: I always try to source my honey locust locally from sustainable logging operations. This ensures that the wood is harvested responsibly and reduces transportation costs. Look for logs with a diameter of at least 12 inches for larger pieces.
2. Milling the Lumber: If you have access to a sawmill, you can mill the logs into boards of the desired thickness. I typically use a portable sawmill for this purpose, as it allows me to process the logs on-site.
   • Tool Specification: Portable bandsaw mill with a minimum 36-inch log diameter capacity.
   • Safety Consideration: Always wear hearing protection and safety glasses when operating a sawmill.
3. Drying the Lumber: Air-drying is the most common method for drying honey locust. Stack the lumber with stickers (thin strips of wood) between each layer to allow for air circulation.
   • Drying Time: Air-drying can take several months, depending on the climate and the thickness of the lumber. A rule of thumb is one year per inch of thickness. I use a moisture meter to monitor the drying process and ensure that the wood reaches the desired moisture content.
   • Moisture Content Target: 6-8%
4. Designing the Furniture: Before you start cutting, create a detailed plan for your bench or picnic table. Consider the dimensions, the style, and the joinery methods you’ll use.
5. Cutting and Shaping: Use a table saw, miter saw, and other woodworking tools to cut the lumber to the desired dimensions. I often use a router to create decorative edges or profiles.
6. Joinery: Honey locust is a strong wood, so you can use a variety of joinery methods, such as mortise and tenon, dovetails, or screws and glue. I prefer mortise and tenon joints for outdoor furniture because they are incredibly strong and durable.
   • Example: For a bench leg, I’d use a 2″x4″ mortise and tenon joint, secured with waterproof glue and wooden pegs.
7. Finishing: Apply a weather-resistant finish to protect the wood from the elements. I often use a spar varnish or an exterior oil finish.
   • Tip: Apply multiple coats of finish, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next.

Case Study:

I once built a set of picnic tables for a local brewery using honey locust. The brewery wanted tables that could withstand heavy use and look good for years to come. I used mortise and tenon joints for the legs and aprons, and I finished the tables with a spar varnish. The brewery owners were thrilled with the results, and the tables have been a popular spot for customers ever since.

2. Cutting Boards and Butcher Blocks

Honey locust is a food-safe wood with a closed grain, making it a great choice for cutting boards and butcher blocks. Its hardness resists knife marks and its natural oils help prevent bacterial growth.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Selecting the Wood: Choose pieces of honey locust with a tight, straight grain. Avoid pieces with knots or cracks.
2. Preparing the Wood: Mill the lumber to the desired thickness and width. I typically use boards that are 1.5 to 2 inches thick for cutting boards and 3 to 4 inches thick for butcher blocks.
3. Gluing Up: Arrange the boards in a pleasing pattern and glue them together using a food-safe adhesive.
   • Tool Specification: Food-safe wood glue, such as Titebond III.
4. Clamping: Use clamps to apply even pressure to the glued-up boards. Allow the glue to dry completely before removing the clamps.
   • Clamping Time: At least 24 hours.
5. Flattening: Use a jointer and planer to flatten the surface of the cutting board or butcher block.
6. Sanding: Sand the surface smooth using progressively finer grits of sandpaper. I start with 80 grit and work my way up to 220 grit.
7. Finishing: Apply a food-safe oil finish, such as mineral oil or beeswax.
   • Tip: Apply multiple coats of oil, allowing each coat to soak in before applying the next.
8. Maintenance: Regularly oil the cutting board or butcher block to keep it in good condition.

Personal Experience:

I made a honey locust cutting board for my own kitchen a few years ago, and it’s still going strong. I love the way it looks and feels, and I appreciate knowing that it’s made from a durable and sustainable material.

3. Tool Handles

The durability and shock resistance of honey locust make it an excellent choice for tool handles. Whether it’s for axes, hammers, or chisels, a honey locust handle can withstand years of heavy use.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Selecting the Wood: Choose a piece of honey locust with a straight grain and no knots.
2. Shaping the Handle: Use a drawknife, spokeshave, or other woodworking tools to shape the handle to the desired dimensions.
3. Fitting the Handle: Carefully fit the handle to the tool head. This may require some trial and error.
4. Securing the Handle: Secure the handle to the tool head using a wedge or pin.
5. Finishing: Apply a protective finish to the handle, such as linseed oil or varnish.

Unique Insight:

I’ve found that soaking the handle in boiled linseed oil for several days after shaping it helps to further enhance its durability and resistance to moisture.

4. Flooring

Honey locust flooring offers a unique combination of durability and beauty. Its hardness resists wear and tear, and its distinctive grain pattern adds character to any room.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Milling the Lumber: Mill the honey locust into flooring planks of the desired thickness and width.
   • Typical Dimensions: 3/4 inch thick, 3-5 inches wide.
2. Drying the Lumber: Dry the lumber to the appropriate moisture content for flooring.
   • Moisture Content Target: 6-8%
3. Acclimation: Allow the flooring planks to acclimate to the environment in which they will be installed for several days before installation.
4. Installation: Install the flooring planks using nails, staples, or glue.
5. Sanding: Sand the floor smooth using progressively finer grits of sandpaper.
6. Finishing: Apply a durable floor finish, such as polyurethane.

Data Point:

Honey locust has a Janka hardness rating of around 1600 lbs, making it harder than many commonly used flooring species, such as red oak (1290 lbs) and maple (1450 lbs).

5. Small Decorative Items (Bowls, Spoons, etc.)

Even in smaller projects, the character of honey locust can shine. Its unique grain pattern and warm color make it a great choice for bowls, spoons, and other decorative items.

Step-by-Step Guide (Bowl Turning):

1. Selecting the Wood: Choose a piece of honey locust with interesting grain patterns. Spalted wood (wood with fungal discoloration) can add a unique touch.
2. Mounting the Wood: Mount the wood on a lathe using a faceplate or chuck.
3. Roughing Out: Use a roughing gouge to shape the outside of the bowl.
   • Tool Specification: 1-1/2″ roughing gouge.
4. Hollowing Out: Use a bowl gouge to hollow out the inside of the bowl.
   • Tool Specification: 5/8″ bowl gouge.
5. Sanding: Sand the inside and outside of the bowl smooth using progressively finer grits of sandpaper.
6. Finishing: Apply a food-safe finish, such as mineral oil or beeswax.

Original Case Study: Honey Locust Spoons

I often carve honey locust spoons as gifts. The process is simple, requiring only a few basic tools: a hatchet for roughing out the shape, a carving knife for refining the details, and sandpaper for smoothing the surface. I finish the spoons with mineral oil, making them safe for food use. The recipients always appreciate the unique character and durability of these handmade gifts.

Chainsaw Safety and Felling Techniques

Since sourcing honey locust often involves felling trees, it’s crucial to understand chainsaw safety and proper felling techniques. I cannot stress enough the importance of proper training and safety equipment when operating a chainsaw.

Safety Gear:

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling debris.
• Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying chips.
• Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
• Gloves: Protect your hands and improve grip.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental cuts.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs.

Felling Techniques:

1. Assess the Tree: Before you start cutting, assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any obstacles that could affect its fall.
2. Plan Your Escape Route: Clear a path behind you at a 45-degree angle to the expected direction of the fall.
3. Make the Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
4. Make the Back Cut: Cut the back of the tree, leaving a hinge of wood between the notch and the back cut. The hinge controls the direction of the fall.
5. Push the Tree: Use a felling wedge or a felling lever to push the tree over.
6. Retreat: As the tree starts to fall, retreat along your escape route.

Chainsaw Maintenance:

• Sharpen the Chain: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting.
• Check the Chain Tension: The chain should be tight enough to prevent it from derailing, but not so tight that it binds.
• Lubricate the Chain: Use chainsaw bar oil to keep the chain lubricated.
• Clean the Air Filter: A clean air filter ensures that the engine runs smoothly.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw: I recommend a chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be felling. For most honey locust trees, a 16-20 inch bar is sufficient.
  • Example: Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss with a 18-inch bar.
• Felling Axe: For driving felling wedges.
  • Example: 3.5 lb felling axe.
• Felling Wedges: To help direct the fall of the tree.
• Felling Lever: To assist in pushing over larger trees.

Debarking Logs

Debarking logs is an important step in preparing honey locust for woodworking. Removing the bark helps to prevent insect infestation and rot, and it also makes the wood easier to dry.

Methods of Debarking:

• Hand Debarking: This involves using a drawknife or bark spud to peel the bark off the log.
• Mechanical Debarking: This involves using a debarking machine to remove the bark.

Step-by-Step Guide (Hand Debarking):

1. Select the Tool: Choose a drawknife or bark spud that is comfortable to use.
2. Position the Log: Position the log on a sawhorse or other stable surface.
3. Peel the Bark: Use the drawknife or bark spud to peel the bark off the log.
4. Clean the Log: Use a wire brush to remove any remaining bark or debris.

Strategic Advantage:

Debarking logs immediately after felling them is the easiest way to remove the bark. The bark is still moist and pliable, making it easier to peel off.

Splitting Firewood

While this article focuses on furniture, honey locust also makes excellent firewood. Its high density means it burns hot and long.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Select the Wood: Choose logs that are straight and free of knots.
2. Cut the Logs: Cut the logs into firewood lengths using a chainsaw.
   • Typical Length: 16 inches.
3. Split the Wood: Split the wood using a splitting maul, axe, or log splitter.
   • Tool Specification: Hydraulic log splitter with a minimum of 20 tons of splitting force.
4. Stack the Firewood: Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area to allow it to dry.

Stacking Methods:

• Traditional Row Stacking: This involves stacking the firewood in rows, with each row leaning slightly inward.
• Holz Hausen: This involves stacking the firewood in a circular pile, with a chimney in the center to promote air circulation.

Drying Time:

Firewood typically needs to dry for at least six months before it is ready to burn. I aim for a moisture content of around 20% or less.

Benefit:

Using a hydraulic log splitter significantly increases efficiency and reduces the physical strain of splitting firewood, especially with a dense wood like honey locust.

Drying Methods: Air Drying vs. Kiln Drying

The method you choose to dry your honey locust will significantly impact the quality and stability of the final product.

Air Drying:

• Pros: Low cost, minimal equipment required.
• Cons: Slow, requires space, prone to warping and cracking if not done properly.
• Best For: Large quantities of lumber, projects where precise moisture content isn’t critical.

Kiln Drying:

• Pros: Fast, precise control over moisture content, reduces the risk of warping and cracking.
• Cons: High cost, requires specialized equipment.
• Best For: High-value projects, projects where precise moisture content is critical.

My Recommendation:

For most DIYers and small-scale woodworkers, air drying is the most practical option. However, if you have access to a kiln, it can be a worthwhile investment for ensuring the quality of your honey locust lumber.

Costs, Material Specs, and Skill Levels

Here’s a breakdown to help you plan your honey locust projects:

I encourage you to experiment with honey locust and discover its unique beauty and durability for yourself. With a little practice and patience, you’ll be creating heirloom-quality pieces that will last for generations to come. Good luck, and happy woodworking!

Learn more