Homelite Super E-Z Automatic Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips For Best Cuts)

Let’s dive into how to maximize the performance of your Homelite Super E-Z Automatic chainsaw. This isn’t just about making cuts; it’s about making efficient, safe, and clean cuts. I’ve spent years working with chainsaws in various settings, from clearing storm damage to preparing firewood for the long, cold winters. I’ve learned that even a seemingly simple machine like the Homelite Super E-Z can be a powerhouse with the right techniques. This guide will walk you through five pro tips that will significantly improve your chainsaw operation. We’ll cover everything from proper chain maintenance to felling techniques, all tailored for the Homelite Super E-Z Automatic.

Upgrading Your Homelite Super E-Z Automatic: A Foundation for Peak Performance

Before we delve into the pro tips, let’s talk about upgrades. The Homelite Super E-Z Automatic is a solid saw, but like any tool, it can benefit from some enhancements. These upgrades aren’t about turning it into a professional logging saw, but rather about maximizing its efficiency and lifespan for the tasks it’s designed for.

Chain Selection: This is the single most important upgrade you can make. The factory chain is often a compromise. Consider a low-kickback chain for added safety, especially if you’re new to chainsaws. A full-chisel chain will cut faster in clean wood but dulls more quickly and requires more skill to sharpen. I personally prefer a semi-chisel chain for general use, balancing cutting speed and durability. Look for reputable brands like Oregon or Stihl. Choosing the right chain can increase your cutting speed by as much as 20% and significantly reduce vibration.
Guide Bar: While the stock guide bar is generally sufficient, upgrading to a slightly longer bar (within the saw’s recommended range) can increase its versatility. Ensure the bar is compatible with your chain pitch and gauge. A high-quality bar will provide better chain support and reduce wear and tear on both the chain and the saw.
Air Filter: A clean air filter is crucial for engine performance. Consider upgrading to a higher-quality aftermarket air filter, especially if you frequently work in dusty conditions. A dirty air filter restricts airflow, leading to decreased power and increased fuel consumption. I once worked on a project where we were cutting a lot of seasoned oak. The stock filter clogged within an hour. Switching to an aftermarket filter doubled the time between cleanings and significantly improved the saw’s performance.
Spark Plug: A fresh spark plug can improve starting and overall engine performance. Use the spark plug recommended by Homelite for your specific model. While it might seem minor, a worn spark plug can lead to hard starting and reduced power output.
Fuel Line and Filter: Over time, fuel lines can crack and fuel filters can become clogged. Replacing these components is a relatively inexpensive way to ensure proper fuel delivery to the engine. This is especially important if you’re using ethanol-blended fuel, which can degrade rubber fuel lines.

Now, let’s get to the pro tips that will help you get the most out of your upgraded (or not!) Homelite Super E-Z Automatic.

Pro Tip #1: Mastering Chain Maintenance: The Key to Efficient Cutting

Chain maintenance is paramount. A dull chain is not only inefficient, but it’s also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue. I’ve seen firsthand how a sharp chain can transform a frustrating job into a smooth and efficient one.

Understanding Chain Anatomy

Before you can sharpen a chain effectively, you need to understand its anatomy. A chainsaw chain consists of several key components:

Cutters (Teeth): These are the cutting edges that remove wood. Each cutter has a top plate and a side plate.
Depth Gauges (Rakers): These control the amount of wood each cutter can take. They sit slightly lower than the cutters.
Tie Straps: These connect the cutters and drive links.
Drive Links: These fit into the groove of the guide bar and are driven by the sprocket.

Sharpening Your Chain

Sharpening a chainsaw chain involves restoring the correct angles and sharpness to the cutters. There are two main methods:

Hand Sharpening: This involves using a round file and a file guide to sharpen each cutter individually. It’s a skill that takes practice, but it’s essential for maintaining your chain in the field.
- Tools: Round file (correct size for your chain pitch), flat file (for depth gauges), file guide, depth gauge tool, work gloves.
- Procedure:
  1. Secure the Chain: Use a vise or a log to hold the chainsaw bar securely.
  2. Determine the Correct File Angle: Use the file guide to maintain the correct angle for your chain. This is typically marked on the file guide.
  3. Sharpen Each Cutter: File each cutter with smooth, even strokes, maintaining the correct angle. Count the number of strokes for each cutter to ensure consistency. I usually aim for 3-5 strokes per cutter.
  4. Check for Consistency: Visually inspect each cutter to ensure it’s sharpened evenly.
  5. Lower the Depth Gauges: Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to lower the depth gauges to the correct height. This is crucial for preventing the chain from grabbing or binding. The correct depth gauge setting is usually around 0.025″ (0.64mm).
Electric Chain Sharpener: This uses a grinding wheel to sharpen the cutters quickly and accurately. It’s a good option for sharpening multiple chains or for those who struggle with hand sharpening.
- Tools: Electric chain sharpener, safety glasses, work gloves.
- Procedure:
  1. Mount the Chain: Secure the chain in the sharpener’s vise.
  2. Set the Grinding Angle: Adjust the grinding angle according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  3. Grind Each Cutter: Lower the grinding wheel onto each cutter, using light pressure. Avoid overheating the cutter, as this can damage the metal.
  4. Check for Consistency: Visually inspect each cutter to ensure it’s sharpened evenly.
  5. Lower the Depth Gauges: Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to lower the depth gauges to the correct height.

Maintaining Chain Tension

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A loose chain can derail, causing damage to the saw and potential injury. A tight chain can overheat and stretch, leading to premature wear.

Checking Tension: The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. There should be about 1/8″ to 1/4″ of slack on the underside of the bar.
Adjusting Tension: Use the chain tensioning screw on the side of the saw to adjust the tension. Loosen the bar nuts slightly before adjusting the tension, and then tighten them securely after.

Chain Lubrication

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chain and bar. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil and check the oil level frequently. The oiler should be adjusted to deliver a consistent stream of oil to the chain. I once neglected to check the oil level and ended up with a seized chain and a damaged bar. It was a costly and frustrating mistake that taught me the importance of proper lubrication.

When to Replace Your Chain

Even with proper maintenance, chainsaw chains eventually wear out. Here are some signs that it’s time to replace your chain:

Excessive Wear: The cutters are worn down to the point where they can no longer be sharpened effectively.
Cracked or Broken Cutters: This can compromise the chain’s strength and safety.
Stretched Chain: The chain is constantly loosening, even after adjusting the tension.

Pro Tip #2: Selecting the Right Wood and Cutting Techniques for Your Homelite

Not all wood is created equal, and different types of wood require different cutting techniques. Understanding the properties of the wood you’re cutting will help you choose the right approach and avoid common problems.

Assessing the Tree and the Surroundings

Before you even start your chainsaw, take the time to assess the tree and its surroundings. This is crucial for planning a safe and controlled fall.

Tree Lean: Determine the natural lean of the tree. This is the direction the tree will most likely fall.
Wind Direction: Wind can significantly affect the direction of the fall. Avoid felling trees in high winds.
Surrounding Obstacles: Identify any obstacles that could interfere with the fall, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
Escape Route: Plan your escape route. This should be a clear path away from the tree, at a 45-degree angle to the direction of the fall.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Always wear appropriate PPE when felling trees. This includes:

Hard Hat: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
Safety Glasses: Protects your eyes from sawdust and flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Chainsaw Chaps: Protects your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protects your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
Work Gloves: Provides a better grip and protects your hands from cuts and abrasions.

Felling Techniques

Directional Notch: This is a wedge-shaped cut that helps control the direction of the fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the notch should be about 45 degrees.
Back Cut: This is a horizontal cut that’s made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. The back cut should be slightly above the notch, leaving a hinge of wood to guide the tree. The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
Felling Wedges: These are used to help push the tree over in the desired direction. They’re especially useful for trees that are leaning in the wrong direction.
Push Pole: This is a long pole that’s used to help push the tree over. It’s useful for trees that are difficult to fell.

The Felling Process: Step-by-Step

Clear the Area: Remove any brush or debris from around the base of the tree.
Plan Your Escape Route: Make sure your escape route is clear and unobstructed.
Make the Directional Notch: Cut the notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall.
Make the Back Cut: Cut the back cut slightly above the notch, leaving a hinge of wood.
Insert Felling Wedges (if needed): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, insert felling wedges into the back cut.
Push the Tree Over (if needed): If the tree is difficult to fell, use a push pole to help push it over.
Retreat Along Your Escape Route: As the tree falls, retreat along your escape route.
Watch the Tree Fall: Watch the tree fall to ensure it falls in the desired direction.

Case Study: Felling a Leaning Oak

I once had to fell a large oak tree that was leaning dangerously close to a neighbor’s house. The tree was about 30 inches in diameter and had a significant lean towards the house. The wind was also blowing in that direction, which made the job even more challenging.

I started by carefully assessing the tree and its surroundings. I determined that the best way to fell the tree was to use a directional notch and felling wedges. I made a deep notch on the side of the tree away from the house and then made a back cut slightly above the notch. I inserted felling wedges into the back cut and started hammering them in.

As I hammered the wedges, the tree slowly started to lean in the desired direction. Eventually, the tree fell cleanly away from the house, landing exactly where I had planned. It was a challenging job, but by carefully planning and executing the felling process, I was able to fell the tree safely and without damaging the neighbor’s property.

Pro Tip #4: Splitting Firewood Efficiently: Tools and Techniques

Splitting firewood can be a back-breaking task, but with the right tools and techniques, it can be made much easier and more efficient. I’ve spent countless hours splitting firewood, and I’ve learned a few tricks along the way.

Choosing the Right Splitting Tool

Axe: This is the traditional tool for splitting firewood. There are two main types of axes: splitting axes and felling axes. Splitting axes are designed specifically for splitting wood, while felling axes are designed for cutting down trees. A good splitting axe should have a heavy head and a wide bit. I prefer a splitting axe with a head weight of around 6-8 pounds.
Maul: This is a heavier version of an axe that’s designed for splitting larger rounds of wood. Mauls typically have a head weight of around 8-12 pounds.
Wedges: These are used to split particularly tough or knotty pieces of wood. Drive the wedge into the wood with a sledgehammer.
Hydraulic Log Splitter: This is a machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split wood. It’s much faster and easier than splitting wood by hand, but it’s also more expensive. Hydraulic log splitters come in a variety of sizes and power ratings. For home use, a splitter with a splitting force of around 20-25 tons is usually sufficient.

Splitting Techniques

Choose the Right Wood: Some types of wood are easier to split than others. Straight-grained wood, such as maple and ash, is relatively easy to split. Knotty wood, such as oak and elm, is more difficult to split.
Split Along the Grain: Always split wood along the grain. This will make it much easier to split.
Use a Solid Base: Place the wood on a solid base, such as a splitting block or a stump. This will provide a stable platform for splitting.
Swing with Your Whole Body: When swinging an axe or maul, use your whole body to generate power. This will make it easier to split the wood.
Keep Your Back Straight: Avoid bending over when splitting wood. This can put strain on your back.
Use Wedges for Tough Pieces: If you encounter a piece of wood that’s particularly tough to split, use wedges. Drive the wedges into the wood with a sledgehammer.

Using a Hydraulic Log Splitter

Read the Manual: Before using a hydraulic log splitter, read the manual carefully. This will help you understand how to operate the splitter safely and effectively.
Wear Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses when using a hydraulic log splitter. This will protect your eyes from flying debris.
Position the Wood: Place the wood on the splitter bed, ensuring it’s centered under the splitting wedge.
Operate the Control Lever: Operate the control lever to advance the splitting wedge.
Split the Wood: Continue advancing the splitting wedge until the wood splits.
Remove the Split Wood: Remove the split wood from the splitter bed.

Case Study: Splitting Knotty Elm

I once had to split a large pile of knotty elm firewood. Elm is notoriously difficult to split, especially when it’s full of knots. I tried using an axe and a maul, but I was making very little progress.

I decided to try using a hydraulic log splitter. I positioned the elm rounds on the splitter bed and operated the control lever. The splitter struggled to split some of the rounds, but eventually, I was able to split them all. The hydraulic log splitter made the job much easier and faster than splitting the wood by hand.

Pro Tip #5: Safe Handling and Stacking of Firewood

Once you’ve split your firewood, it’s important to handle and stack it safely. Proper stacking will allow the wood to dry efficiently and prevent it from rotting.

Handling Firewood Safely

Wear Gloves: Wear gloves to protect your hands from splinters and cuts.
Lift with Your Legs: When lifting firewood, bend your knees and keep your back straight. This will prevent back injuries.
Avoid Overloading: Avoid overloading yourself when carrying firewood. Take smaller loads to prevent strain.
Use a Wheelbarrow: Use a wheelbarrow to transport firewood over longer distances.

Stacking Firewood Properly

Choose a Sunny Location: Choose a sunny location for your firewood stack. This will help the wood dry more quickly.
Elevate the Stack: Elevate the stack off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood. You can use pallets, rocks, or treated lumber for this purpose.
Stack Loosely: Stack the wood loosely to allow for air circulation. This will help the wood dry more quickly.
Crisscross the Ends: Crisscross the ends of the stack to provide stability.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect the wood from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for air circulation.

Drying Firewood

Seasoning Time: Allow the firewood to season for at least six months, and preferably a year, before burning it. This will allow the moisture content to decrease, making it burn more efficiently.
Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of around 20% or less. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood.
Air Circulation: Ensure good air circulation around the stack to help the wood dry more quickly.

Case Study: Stacking Firewood for Optimal Drying

I live in a region with high humidity, so drying firewood can be a challenge. I’ve experimented with different stacking methods to find the most effective way to dry wood.

I’ve found that the best method is to stack the wood in single rows, with plenty of space between each row. I elevate the stacks off the ground using pallets and cover the top with a tarp. I also make sure the stacks are located in a sunny and windy location.

Using this method, I’m able to dry firewood to a moisture content of around 15% within six months. This makes the wood burn hot and clean, with minimal smoke.

These five pro tips, combined with understanding the nuances of your Homelite Super E-Z Automatic chainsaw, will significantly improve your wood processing and firewood preparation endeavors. Remember, safety is always the priority. Take your time, use the right tools, and follow these guidelines for a more efficient and enjoyable experience. Now, get out there and make some great cuts!

Homelite Super E-Z Automatic Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips for Best Cuts)

Upgrading Your Homelite Super E-Z Automatic: A Foundation for Peak Performance