Homelite Super 2 Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips For Restoration)

I remember the first time I laid eyes on a Homelite Super 2 chainsaw. It was tucked away in my grandfather’s shed, covered in dust and looking like it hadn’t been used in decades. He told me it was a workhorse back in its day, a reliable machine that helped him clear acres of land. That sparked my interest, and I spent the next few weeks learning everything I could about it. Restoring that old saw wasn’t just about fixing a machine; it was about connecting with a piece of history and understanding the evolution of wood processing tools. The user intent behind “Homelite Super 2 Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips for Restoration)” is clear: someone wants to bring an old Homelite Super 2 chainsaw back to life. They want practical, actionable advice to guide them through the restoration process. I’m going to walk you through exactly how to do that, based on my years of experience with chainsaws and wood processing.

Homelite Super 2 Chainsaw: 5 Pro Tips for Restoration

The Homelite Super 2 is a classic chainsaw. It’s a simple, durable machine that, with a little care, can provide years of service. However, these saws are often neglected and require some attention to get them running smoothly again. This guide will provide five essential pro tips to help you restore your Homelite Super 2 chainsaw, along with detailed instructions and insights gained from my own restoration projects.

1. Initial Assessment and Cleaning: The Foundation of Restoration

Before you even think about turning a wrench, you need to assess the condition of your chainsaw. This initial assessment will help you identify the specific problems and prioritize your restoration efforts.

Visual Inspection: Start with a thorough visual inspection. Look for obvious damage, such as cracks in the housing, broken handles, or a damaged chain. Check the fuel lines for cracks or leaks. Examine the spark plug wire for any signs of wear or fraying.
Compression Test: A compression test is crucial to determine the health of the engine. A healthy engine should have a compression reading of at least 90 PSI. To perform a compression test, you’ll need a compression tester. Remove the spark plug and screw the tester into the spark plug hole. Pull the starter cord several times and note the reading on the gauge. If the compression is low, it could indicate worn piston rings or a damaged cylinder.
Fuel System Check: The fuel system is often the culprit in a non-starting chainsaw. Check the fuel tank for old, gummy fuel. Inspect the fuel lines for cracks or leaks. The fuel filter, located inside the fuel tank, is often clogged and should be replaced.
Spark Test: Remove the spark plug and reattach it to the spark plug wire. Hold the spark plug against the engine block and pull the starter cord. You should see a strong, blue spark. If there is no spark or the spark is weak, the ignition system may be faulty.
Cleaning: Once you’ve completed the initial assessment, it’s time to clean the chainsaw. Use a brush and compressed air to remove dirt, debris, and sawdust from the engine, carburetor, and other components. Pay particular attention to the cooling fins on the cylinder head, as overheating can damage the engine.

Personal Story: I once worked on a Super 2 that had been sitting in a barn for over 20 years. The fuel tank was full of a thick, varnish-like substance. It took several cleanings with carburetor cleaner and a lot of elbow grease to get it back to usable condition.

Key Concept: Fuel Stabilizer: Always use a fuel stabilizer when storing a chainsaw for an extended period. Fuel stabilizer prevents the fuel from breaking down and forming gummy deposits that can clog the carburetor.

2. Carburetor Overhaul: Getting the Fuel Mix Right

The carburetor is responsible for mixing fuel and air in the correct proportions for combustion. Over time, carburetors can become clogged with dirt, debris, and old fuel, leading to poor performance or a non-starting engine.

Disassembly: Carefully disassemble the carburetor, taking note of the location of each part. It’s helpful to take pictures as you disassemble the carburetor to ensure that you can reassemble it correctly.
Cleaning: Clean all of the carburetor components with carburetor cleaner. Pay particular attention to the jets and passages, as these are easily clogged. Use a small wire or a carburetor cleaning tool to clear any obstructions.
Inspection: Inspect the carburetor components for wear or damage. The diaphragm, a thin rubber membrane inside the carburetor, is prone to cracking and should be replaced if it’s damaged. Check the needle valve and seat for wear, as these can affect the fuel mixture.
Reassembly: Reassemble the carburetor, using new gaskets and diaphragms if necessary. Refer to your pictures or a repair manual to ensure that you reassemble the carburetor correctly.
Adjustment: Once the carburetor is reassembled, you’ll need to adjust the idle speed and fuel mixture. The Homelite Super 2 carburetor typically has two adjustment screws: one for the idle speed and one for the high-speed fuel mixture. Start by adjusting the idle speed screw until the engine idles smoothly without stalling. Then, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture screw until the engine runs smoothly at full throttle.

Technical Detail: Carburetor Settings: The exact carburetor settings will vary depending on the altitude and temperature. As a general rule, you’ll need to lean out the fuel mixture at higher altitudes and in warmer temperatures.

Tool Specification: I find that using a set of carburetor adjustment tools, specifically designed for small engines, makes the adjustment process much easier and more precise.

3. Ignition System Tune-Up: Sparking the Engine Back to Life

A faulty ignition system is another common cause of chainsaw problems. The ignition system is responsible for generating the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture in the cylinder.

Spark Plug: Start by replacing the spark plug. A new spark plug can often solve ignition problems. Make sure to use the correct spark plug for your Homelite Super 2 chainsaw.
Ignition Coil: The ignition coil is responsible for generating the high-voltage spark. To test the ignition coil, you’ll need a multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure resistance and connect the probes to the primary and secondary terminals of the ignition coil. The resistance should be within the manufacturer’s specifications. If the resistance is outside of the specifications, the ignition coil may be faulty and need to be replaced.
Points and Condenser (If Applicable): Some older Homelite Super 2 chainsaws use a points and condenser ignition system. If your chainsaw has this type of ignition system, you’ll need to check the condition of the points and condenser. The points should be clean and properly gapped. The condenser should be tested with a capacitor tester.
Air Gap: The air gap between the ignition coil and the flywheel is critical for proper ignition. Consult your repair manual for the correct air gap setting. Use a feeler gauge to adjust the air gap.

Case Study: I had a customer who brought in a Super 2 that wouldn’t start. After checking the fuel system and carburetor, I determined that the problem was with the ignition system. The ignition coil was cracked and not producing a strong spark. Replacing the ignition coil solved the problem and the chainsaw started right up.

Safety Consideration: Always disconnect the spark plug wire before working on the ignition system. This will prevent accidental starting and reduce the risk of electric shock.

4. Bar and Chain Maintenance: Cutting with Precision

The bar and chain are the cutting elements of the chainsaw. Proper maintenance of the bar and chain is essential for safe and efficient operation.

Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is crucial for efficient cutting. Use a chainsaw file to sharpen the chain. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct filing angle and depth.
Chain Tension: The chain tension should be checked regularly. A properly tensioned chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
Bar Maintenance: The bar should be cleaned and inspected regularly. Remove any burrs or damage with a file. Check the bar rails for wear and ensure that they are square.
Chain Lubrication: The chain should be lubricated continuously during operation. Check the oil level in the oil tank and ensure that the oiler is working properly.
Chain Replacement: When the chain is worn beyond the point of sharpening, it should be replaced. Use the correct chain for your Homelite Super 2 chainsaw.

Measurement: Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain will produce large, uniform chips of wood. A dull chain will produce fine sawdust.

Wood Type Selection: When cutting hardwoods like oak or maple, you may need to sharpen the chain more frequently than when cutting softwoods like pine or fir.

5. Final Adjustments and Testing: Ensuring Optimal Performance

Once you’ve completed the restoration, it’s time to make final adjustments and test the chainsaw to ensure that it’s running properly.

Idle Speed Adjustment: Adjust the idle speed screw until the engine idles smoothly without stalling.
High-Speed Fuel Mixture Adjustment: Adjust the high-speed fuel mixture screw until the engine runs smoothly at full throttle.
Chain Oiler Adjustment: Adjust the chain oiler to provide adequate lubrication to the chain.
Test Cutting: Test the chainsaw by cutting a few pieces of wood. Listen for any unusual noises and check for smooth, efficient cutting.
Safety Check: Before using the chainsaw for extended periods, perform a final safety check. Ensure that all of the safety features are working properly, including the chain brake and throttle lock.

Strategic Insight: Preventative Maintenance: Regular preventative maintenance is the key to keeping your Homelite Super 2 chainsaw running smoothly for years to come. Clean the air filter regularly, replace the spark plug annually, and use fuel stabilizer when storing the chainsaw for extended periods.

Cost Estimation: The cost of restoring a Homelite Super 2 chainsaw will vary depending on the extent of the damage and the cost of parts. However, with a little effort and some basic tools, you can often restore a Super 2 for a fraction of the cost of a new chainsaw.

Additional Tips and Considerations

Repair Manual: A repair manual is an invaluable resource for restoring a Homelite Super 2 chainsaw. The repair manual will provide detailed instructions and diagrams for disassembling, reassembling, and adjusting the chainsaw.
Parts Availability: Parts for the Homelite Super 2 chainsaw are still readily available online and at many small engine repair shops.
Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.
Proper Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture for your Homelite Super 2 chainsaw. The correct fuel mixture is typically 32:1 or 40:1, depending on the model.
Storage: Store your chainsaw in a dry, well-ventilated area. Drain the fuel tank before storing the chainsaw for an extended period.

Common Problems and Solutions

Chainsaw won’t start: Check the fuel system, ignition system, and compression.
Chainsaw runs poorly: Check the carburetor, spark plug, and air filter.
Chainsaw chain dulls quickly: Sharpen the chain regularly and use the correct chain for the type of wood you are cutting.
Chainsaw chain oiler not working: Check the oil level, oil filter, and oil pump.

Green Wood vs Seasoned Wood

Understanding the difference between green wood and seasoned wood is crucial for efficient wood processing and firewood preparation.

Green Wood: Green wood is freshly cut wood that still contains a high moisture content. Green wood is heavier than seasoned wood and is more difficult to split and burn.
Seasoned Wood: Seasoned wood is wood that has been allowed to dry for an extended period. Seasoned wood has a lower moisture content than green wood and is easier to split and burn.

Drying Methods: The most common method for seasoning wood is to stack it in a well-ventilated area and allow it to air dry. The drying time will vary depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the size of the wood. Typically, it takes six months to a year for wood to season properly.

Moisture Content Targets: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. You can use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood.

Felling Techniques

Felling trees safely and efficiently is a critical skill for anyone involved in wood processing.

Planning: Before felling a tree, carefully plan the felling operation. Identify the direction of fall, clear the area around the tree, and plan your escape route.
Notches: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Back Cut: Cut a back cut on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. The back cut should be slightly higher than the notch.
Felling: As you complete the back cut, the tree will begin to fall. Move away from the tree along your planned escape route.

Safety Standards: Always follow all applicable safety standards when felling trees. Wear appropriate safety gear and work with a qualified professional if you are not experienced in felling trees.

Debarking Logs

Debarking logs can improve the drying time and prevent insect infestations.

Tools: There are a variety of tools that can be used to debark logs, including axes, draw knives, and debarking spuds.
Technique: Use the tool to remove the bark from the log. Be careful not to damage the wood underneath the bark.

Splitting Firewood

Splitting firewood can be a physically demanding task, but it can be made easier with the right tools and techniques.

Axes: Axes are the traditional tool for splitting firewood. Choose an axe that is the right size and weight for you.
Log Splitters: Log splitters are hydraulic machines that make splitting firewood much easier and faster.
Technique: Position the log on a chopping block and swing the axe or activate the log splitter to split the log.

Benefit: Hydraulic Splitter Efficiency: Using a hydraulic splitter can significantly increase the efficiency of splitting firewood, especially for larger logs.

Stacking Firewood

Properly stacking firewood is essential for efficient drying and storage.

Location: Choose a location that is well-ventilated and protected from the rain and snow.
Stacking Method: Stack the firewood in rows, leaving space between the rows for air circulation.
Covering: Cover the top of the firewood stack to protect it from the rain and snow.

Case Study: I once helped a friend stack firewood in a traditional “Holz Hausen” style. This circular stack allows for excellent air circulation and protects the wood from the elements.

Assess your chainsaw: Conduct a thorough assessment of your chainsaw to identify the specific problems.
Gather your tools and supplies: Assemble the necessary tools and supplies, including carburetor cleaner, spark plugs, gaskets, and a repair manual.
Start the restoration process: Follow the steps outlined in this guide to restore your chainsaw.
Practice safe operation: Always wear appropriate safety gear and follow all safety guidelines when operating a chainsaw.
Enjoy the fruits of your labor: Use your restored chainsaw to process wood for firewood or other projects.

Restoring a Homelite Super 2 chainsaw is a rewarding experience that can provide you with a reliable and valuable tool for years to come. By following the tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can bring your old chainsaw back to life and enjoy the satisfaction of working with a classic piece of machinery. Remember to always prioritize safety and take your time to ensure that the restoration is done correctly. Good luck, and happy sawing!

Homelite Super 2 Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips for Restoration)