Hemlock Firewood Insights (5 Wood Processing Tips You Need)
Ever been stuck with a load of hemlock, wondering if it’s even worth the effort to turn into firewood? I know the feeling. Hemlock gets a bad rap, and for good reason – it’s not the BTU powerhouse that oak or maple is. But trust me, with the right approach, hemlock can be a perfectly usable, even valuable, part of your firewood supply.
Hemlock Firewood Insights (5 Wood Processing Tips You Need)
I’ve spent years felling, processing, and burning all sorts of wood, including my fair share of hemlock. Through trial and error, I’ve learned the tricks to making the most of this often-overlooked species. This guide is packed with the knowledge I’ve gained, from the forest floor to the warmth of my wood stove. Let’s dive in!
Understanding Hemlock Firewood
Before I even think about firing up the chainsaw, I need to understand the wood I’m working with. Hemlock is unique, and knowing its properties is key to successful processing and burning.
Let’s break it down:
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Pros:
- Easy to Split: Hemlock generally splits easily, especially when green. This is a huge time-saver and less wear and tear on your splitting equipment (and your back!).
- Dries Relatively Quickly: Compared to dense hardwoods like oak, hemlock dries much faster. This means you can season it and have it ready to burn sooner.
- Lights Easily: Hemlock makes excellent kindling due to its resinous nature and quick-burning properties.
- Abundant in Many Areas: In some regions, hemlock is readily available, making it a sustainable choice.
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Cons:
- Lower BTU Content: This is the big one. Hemlock has a lower BTU (British Thermal Unit) content than hardwoods. Expect to use more of it to generate the same amount of heat. A cord of air-dried hemlock contains roughly 15 million BTUs, compared to 24 million BTUs for oak.
- Smoky Burn: Hemlock can produce more smoke than hardwoods, especially if it’s not properly seasoned. This can lead to creosote buildup in your chimney.
- Can Spark and Pop: The resinous nature of hemlock can cause it to spark and pop, making it less ideal for open fireplaces.
Takeaway: Hemlock isn’t the best firewood, but its ease of splitting and drying makes it a viable option, especially when mixed with other wood types.
Identifying Hemlock
Before you start cutting, make sure you’re actually dealing with hemlock. Misidentification can lead to unexpected burning characteristics. Here’s how I identify it:
- Needles: Hemlock needles are short (about 1/2 inch long), flat, and blunt. They are arranged in two rows along the twig and have two white lines on the underside.
- Cones: Hemlock cones are small (about 3/4 inch long), oval-shaped, and hang down from the branches.
- Bark: The bark is reddish-brown to gray and deeply furrowed. On older trees, it becomes thick and scaly.
- Drooping Leader: Hemlock trees typically have a distinctive drooping leader (the top-most branch).
Takeaway: Accurate identification is crucial. If you’re unsure, consult a tree identification guide or a local arborist.
Tip #1: Prioritize Freshly Felled Hemlock
The key to making hemlock a worthwhile firewood choice is to process it while it’s still green. This makes a huge difference in ease of splitting and drying time.
The “Green” Advantage
“Green” wood refers to freshly cut wood that still has a high moisture content. With hemlock, processing it green offers several advantages:
- Easier Splitting: Green hemlock splits much more easily than dry hemlock. The fibers are still pliable and haven’t hardened, making the wood more receptive to an axe or log splitter. I’ve personally experienced a night-and-day difference. A log that might require multiple whacks when dry can often be split with a single swing when green.
- Faster Drying: While it seems counterintuitive, splitting green wood actually speeds up the drying process. The smaller pieces expose more surface area to the air, allowing moisture to evaporate more quickly.
- Less Stringy: Dry hemlock can become stringy and difficult to handle when splitting. Green hemlock tends to split cleaner, with less splintering.
My Personal Experience with Green Hemlock
I once had a massive hemlock come down in my yard after a storm. It was easily 30 inches in diameter at the base. I knew I had to act fast if I wanted to make it usable firewood. I spent the next few days bucking it into manageable rounds and splitting it while it was still dripping with sap. The difference compared to splitting dry hemlock was remarkable. The rounds practically fell apart with each swing of my maul. If I had waited, I would have been battling a tough, stringy mess.
Takeaway: Don’t let hemlock sit around. Process it as soon as possible after felling to maximize its workability and drying potential.
Tip #2: Master the Art of Splitting Hemlock
While hemlock is generally easy to split, certain techniques can make the job even easier and safer.
Axe vs. Log Splitter: Which to Choose?
The best splitting method depends on the size of the rounds and your personal preference.
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Axe/Maul: For smaller rounds (less than 12 inches in diameter), a good splitting axe or maul is often sufficient. The key is to use a sharp axe and a solid chopping block. Aim for existing cracks or knots in the wood to maximize your splitting efficiency. I prefer a maul for larger rounds and an axe for smaller, cleaner splits.
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Log Splitter: For larger rounds or if you have a lot of wood to process, a log splitter is a game-changer. Hydraulic log splitters can handle even the most stubborn pieces of wood with ease. I use a 25-ton gas-powered splitter for my larger projects. The time and energy savings are significant.
Splitting Techniques for Hemlock
Regardless of the method you choose, here are some tips for splitting hemlock effectively:
- Aim for Weak Points: Look for cracks, knots, or other imperfections in the wood. These are natural points of weakness that will make splitting easier.
- Use a Wedge: For particularly tough rounds, drive a splitting wedge into the wood first to create a starting point.
- Maintain a Sharp Blade: A dull axe or splitter blade will make splitting much more difficult and increase the risk of injury. Sharpen your tools regularly.
- Proper Stance: When using an axe or maul, maintain a wide, stable stance. Keep your back straight and use your legs and core to generate power.
- Safety First: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting wood. Be aware of your surroundings and ensure that no one is within striking distance.
Case Study: Splitting a Large Hemlock Round
I recently had a particularly challenging hemlock round that was about 24 inches in diameter and riddled with knots. I tried splitting it with my maul, but it was no use. The wood was too dense and the knots were deflecting the force of the blow. I then brought out my log splitter. Even with the splitter, the knots presented a challenge. I had to carefully position the round on the splitter and apply steady pressure. After a few attempts, I was able to split the round into manageable pieces.
Takeaway: Choose the right splitting method for the size and density of the wood. Utilize wedges and aim for weak points to maximize efficiency.
Tip #3: Optimize Hemlock Firewood Drying
Proper seasoning is crucial for reducing smoke and maximizing heat output. Hemlock dries faster than hardwoods, but you still need to follow best practices.
The Importance of Seasoning
Seasoning refers to the process of drying wood to reduce its moisture content. Green wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher. Ideally, firewood should be seasoned to a moisture content of 20% or less before burning. Burning unseasoned wood results in:
- Reduced Heat Output: Much of the energy from the fire is used to evaporate the water in the wood, rather than producing heat.
- Increased Smoke: Wet wood produces significantly more smoke, which can be irritating and contribute to creosote buildup in your chimney.
- Creosote Buildup: Creosote is a flammable substance that can accumulate in your chimney and increase the risk of a chimney fire.
Drying Methods
There are several methods for drying firewood:
- Air Drying: This is the most common and cost-effective method. Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, in a sunny, well-ventilated location. Allow the wood to dry for at least 6-12 months, depending on the climate and wood type.
- Kiln Drying: This is a faster but more expensive method. Wood is placed in a kiln and dried using heat and controlled humidity. Kiln-dried wood typically has a moisture content of 15-20% and is ready to burn immediately.
- Solar Kiln: A hybrid approach. It harnesses solar energy to accelerate the drying process. It’s more efficient than open-air drying but less energy-intensive than traditional kiln drying.
Hemlock Drying Specifics
Hemlock’s relatively low density means it dries faster than hardwoods. I’ve found that air-drying hemlock for 6-9 months in a sunny, windy location is usually sufficient. Here are some tips for optimizing hemlock drying:
- Stacking: Stack the wood loosely to allow for good airflow. Leave gaps between the rows and between the pieces of wood.
- Location: Choose a sunny, windy location. South-facing slopes are ideal.
- Elevation: Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or scrap wood. This prevents moisture from wicking up from the ground.
- Covering: Covering the top of the woodpile with a tarp can help prevent rain and snow from soaking the wood. However, make sure to leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
- Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning. This is the most accurate way to determine if the wood is properly seasoned.
My Drying Setup
I have a dedicated area in my yard for drying firewood. It’s a south-facing slope that gets plenty of sun and wind. I use pallets to elevate the wood off the ground and stack it in single rows with gaps between the pieces. I cover the top of the pile with a tarp during the rainy season but leave the sides open for ventilation. I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content before burning.
Takeaway: Proper seasoning is crucial for safe and efficient burning. Air-drying is the most common method, but follow best practices to optimize drying time.
Tip #4: Embrace Hemlock as Kindling
Hemlock shines as kindling due to its resinous nature and easy ignition. Don’t underestimate its value in starting fires!
Hemlock’s Kindling Advantage
While hemlock may not be the best choice for sustained heat, it excels as kindling. Its resinous nature makes it highly flammable, and it lights easily even when slightly damp. I find that small splits of hemlock are perfect for getting a fire going quickly and efficiently.
Preparing Hemlock Kindling
Here’s how I prepare hemlock kindling:
- Choose Small Pieces: Select small pieces of hemlock that are about 1/2 inch to 1 inch thick.
- Split into Thin Strips: Split the pieces into thin strips using an axe or knife. The thinner the strips, the easier they will ignite.
- Dry Thoroughly: Ensure that the kindling is completely dry before using it. Store it in a dry, sheltered location.
- Shave Feather Sticks: For even faster ignition, shave thin curls off the kindling using a knife. These “feather sticks” will catch a flame with ease.
My Kindling Storage Solution
I keep a dedicated bin of hemlock kindling near my wood stove. It’s always ready to go when I need to start a fire. I also keep a small bag of kindling in my car for camping trips. Hemlock kindling has saved me countless times when trying to start a fire in damp conditions.
Takeaway: Hemlock makes excellent kindling. Prepare small, dry strips and store them in a convenient location for easy fire starting.
Tip #5: Mix Hemlock with Hardwoods
The best way to utilize hemlock firewood is to combine it with hardwoods. This provides a balance of easy ignition and sustained heat.
The Power of Blending
Burning hemlock on its own can be disappointing due to its lower BTU content. However, when mixed with hardwoods like oak, maple, or birch, it can be a valuable addition to your firewood supply. The hemlock will help get the fire going quickly, while the hardwoods will provide long-lasting heat.
My Preferred Mixing Ratio
I typically mix hemlock with hardwoods in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. This means that for every one piece of hemlock, I use two or three pieces of hardwood. This provides a good balance of easy ignition and sustained heat. I also adjust the ratio depending on the weather. On colder days, I use more hardwood to provide more heat.
Stacking for Optimal Burning
When stacking wood in my wood stove, I place the hemlock kindling and smaller splits at the bottom, followed by larger pieces of hardwood. This allows the hemlock to ignite quickly and easily, which then ignites the hardwoods. I also leave some space between the pieces of wood to allow for good airflow.
My Firewood Blending Strategy
I prioritize hardwoods for the coldest months of winter when I need maximum heat output. During the shoulder seasons (spring and fall), I use a higher proportion of hemlock to conserve my hardwood supply. I also use hemlock for daytime fires when I don’t need the fire to burn as long.
Takeaway: Mixing hemlock with hardwoods is the best way to maximize its value. Experiment with different ratios to find what works best for your needs.
Final Thoughts
Hemlock may not be the king of firewood, but it’s a valuable resource when used wisely. By prioritizing freshly felled wood, mastering splitting techniques, optimizing drying, embracing it as kindling, and mixing it with hardwoods, you can make the most of this often-overlooked species. Don’t let hemlock go to waste – turn it into a valuable part of your firewood supply! I hope this guide has given you the insights and confidence you need to tackle your hemlock firewood projects. Happy burning!