Hazel Tree Coppicing Tips (5 Pro Methods For Optimal Yield)

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Hazel Tree Coppicing Tips: 5 Pro Methods for Optimal Yield

As someone who’s spent decades in the woods, from the damp forests of the Pacific Northwest to the sun-drenched coppices of the English countryside, I’ve learned that working with nature, rather than against it, yields the best results. In this guide, I’ll share my hard-won knowledge, gleaned from years of hands-on experience, about how to coppice hazel trees for optimal yield. We’ll cover everything from selecting the right tools to understanding the nuances of different coppicing methods.

Regional Focus: While the principles of hazel coppicing apply globally, this guide will particularly focus on techniques relevant to temperate climates, especially those found in Europe and North America. These regions boast a long history of coppicing, and the specific advice on timing, species selection, and pest management will be most pertinent to those areas. However, the underlying concepts can be adapted to other regions where hazel or similar species thrive.

Why Coppice Hazel? A Sustainable Approach to Wood Production

Coppicing is an ancient woodland management technique where trees are cut back to near ground level, stimulating them to produce numerous new stems. This process is cyclical, and the resulting stems can be harvested at regular intervals. Hazel is particularly well-suited to coppicing due to its vigorous regrowth and the versatility of its resulting wood.

Benefits of Hazel Coppicing:

Sustainability: Coppicing allows for continuous wood production without killing the tree.
Biodiversity: A coppiced woodland creates a mosaic of habitats, benefiting a wide range of wildlife. The open areas created after cutting allow sunlight to reach the ground, encouraging the growth of wildflowers and other ground flora.
Versatile Wood: Hazel wood is strong, flexible, and durable, making it ideal for a variety of uses, including hurdles, fencing, bean poles, thatching spars, and firewood.
Regular Income: Coppicing provides a sustainable source of income for woodland owners.
Carbon Sequestration: While mature trees store significant carbon, the rapid regrowth of coppiced hazel absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, contributing to carbon sequestration.

Key Terms and Concepts:

Coppice Stool: The base of the tree from which new stems grow after coppicing.
Rotation: The period between successive coppicing cuts (e.g., a 7-year rotation means cutting the hazel every 7 years).
Standards: Mature trees left standing within a coppiced woodland to provide shade and habitat. These are often oak or ash.
Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce its moisture content, making it more suitable for burning or other uses.

1. Planning Your Hazel Coppice: Site Assessment and Rotation Length

Before you even think about picking up a chainsaw, careful planning is essential. This involves assessing your site, understanding your hazel stand, and deciding on an appropriate rotation length.

Site Assessment:

Soil Type: Hazel prefers well-drained soils. Poorly drained soils can lead to root rot and reduced growth. I’ve seen hazel thrive in chalky soils, loamy soils, and even some sandy soils, but consistently wet conditions are a death knell.
Sunlight: Hazel needs sufficient sunlight to thrive. Overcrowding by other trees can significantly reduce growth.
Wind Exposure: Excessive wind can damage young stems. Consider planting windbreaks if your site is particularly exposed.
Pest and Disease: Be aware of any potential pests or diseases that may affect your hazel. Squirrels, deer, and hazelnut weevils can all cause problems.

Hazel Stand Assessment:

Age of Stools: Knowing the age of your hazel stools will help you determine the optimal rotation length. Older stools may benefit from a longer rotation to allow for sufficient regrowth.
Density of Stems: Overcrowded stools will produce smaller, weaker stems. Thinning may be necessary to improve overall yield.
Health of Stools: Look for signs of disease or damage. Unhealthy stools may need to be replaced.
Species of Hazel: While Corylus avellana (common hazel) is the most common species for coppicing, other species and cultivars may be suitable. Corylus maxima (filbert) and various ornamental hazels can also be coppiced.

Rotation Length:

The rotation length is the most critical decision you’ll make. It determines the size and quality of the harvested stems. The ideal rotation length depends on the intended use of the wood.

Short Rotation (3-5 years): Produces thin stems suitable for hurdles, weaving, and bean poles.
Medium Rotation (6-10 years): Produces stems suitable for fencing, thatching spars, and small firewood.
Long Rotation (11-15 years): Produces larger stems suitable for tool handles, walking sticks, and larger firewood.

My Experience: I once worked on a hazel coppice in Kent, England, where the rotation length had been neglected for decades. The stools were overgrown and unproductive. We implemented a phased approach, gradually reducing the rotation length over several years, which significantly improved the yield and quality of the wood.

Actionable Steps:

Conduct a thorough site assessment. Note the soil type, sunlight exposure, wind exposure, and any potential pest or disease problems.
Assess your hazel stand. Determine the age, density, and health of the stools.
Decide on your desired end product. This will determine the optimal rotation length.
Create a coppicing plan. This should include a map of your coppice, a schedule for cutting, and a plan for managing any pests or diseases.

2. Tools of the Trade: Choosing the Right Equipment for Hazel Coppicing

Having the right tools makes all the difference in efficiency and safety. Here’s a breakdown of the essential equipment for hazel coppicing:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw is essential for cutting larger stems and for felling larger standard trees.
- Specification: I recommend a chainsaw with a 14-16 inch bar for most hazel coppicing tasks. A lightweight model is preferable for prolonged use. Look for features like an inertia chain brake and anti-vibration system for added safety.
- Brands: Stihl and Husqvarna are the industry standards, but other brands like Echo and Makita offer reliable options.
- Safety: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) when using a chainsaw, including a helmet with visor, ear protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
Axe: An axe is useful for smaller stems and for splitting firewood.
- Specification: A felling axe with a 3-4 lb head is a good all-around choice. A splitting axe with a heavier head is more efficient for splitting larger rounds.
- Brands: Gransfors Bruks, Wetterlings, and Fiskars are known for their high-quality axes.
- Safety: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when using an axe.
Billhook: A billhook is a traditional tool used for coppicing and hedge laying. It’s particularly useful for cutting smaller stems and for shaping wood.
- Specification: Choose a billhook with a comfortable handle and a sharp, durable blade. There are many different styles of billhook, each designed for specific tasks.
- Brands: Billhooks are often made by small, independent blacksmiths. Local agricultural supply stores are a good place to find them.
- Safety: Always wear gloves when using a billhook.
Loppers: Loppers are useful for cutting stems that are too thick for secateurs but too thin for a chainsaw.
- Specification: Choose loppers with long handles for increased leverage. Bypass loppers are better for cutting live stems, while anvil loppers are better for cutting dead stems.
- Brands: Felco, Bahco, and Fiskars are popular brands.
Secateurs: Secateurs are useful for cutting small stems and for pruning.
- Specification: Choose secateurs with comfortable handles and a sharp, durable blade. Bypass secateurs are generally preferred for coppicing.
- Brands: Felco, Bahco, and Fiskars are popular brands.
Measuring Tape: A measuring tape is essential for determining the size and length of the stems.
Marking Paint: Marking paint is useful for marking stools and for identifying areas that have been coppiced.
First Aid Kit: A well-stocked first aid kit is essential for any woodland task.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): As mentioned above, always wear appropriate PPE when working in the woods. This includes a helmet with visor, ear protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.

My Experience: I’ve found that investing in high-quality tools pays off in the long run. Cheaper tools often break easily and require more maintenance. A good axe, for example, can last a lifetime with proper care. I also highly recommend investing in a good sharpening kit to keep your tools in top condition. A dull tool is a dangerous tool.

Actionable Steps:

Assess your needs. Determine which tools are most appropriate for your specific coppicing tasks.
Invest in high-quality tools. Choose tools that are durable, comfortable, and well-suited to your needs.
Maintain your tools properly. Keep your tools clean, sharp, and well-lubricated.
Always wear appropriate PPE. Safety should always be your top priority.

3. The Art of the Cut: Mastering Coppicing Techniques for Hazel

The way you cut the hazel stems is crucial for promoting healthy regrowth. A clean, angled cut encourages water runoff and prevents disease.

Coppicing Methods:

Clear Coppicing: This involves cutting all the stems on a stool at the same time. This is the most common method and is suitable for most situations.
- Technique: Cut the stems as close to the ground as possible, ideally within 2-4 inches. Angle the cut downwards and outwards to encourage water runoff. Avoid tearing the bark.
- Benefits: Simple and efficient. Promotes vigorous regrowth.
- Drawbacks: Can leave the site exposed and vulnerable to erosion.
Selective Coppicing: This involves cutting only some of the stems on a stool, leaving others to grow on for another year or two.
- Technique: Select the stems to be cut based on their size, health, and position. Cut the selected stems as close to the ground as possible, using the same technique as clear coppicing.
- Benefits: Provides a more gradual change in habitat. Can be used to manage specific stems for particular purposes.
- Drawbacks: More time-consuming than clear coppicing. Requires more skill and judgment.
Stool Rejuvenation: This involves cutting back old, unproductive stools to ground level to stimulate new growth.
- Technique: Cut all the stems on the stool back to ground level. Remove any dead or decaying wood from the stool.
- Benefits: Can revitalize old, unproductive stools.
- Drawbacks: Can be risky, as some stools may not recover.
Layering: This involves bending a stem down to the ground and burying a section of it. The buried section will root, and a new plant will grow.
- Technique: Select a flexible stem and bend it down to the ground. Wound the stem where it will be buried. Bury the wounded section of the stem and secure it in place with a peg or rock.
- Benefits: A simple way to propagate new hazel plants.
- Drawbacks: Slow and labor-intensive.
Singling: This involves removing all but one stem from a young hazel plant. This encourages the remaining stem to grow straight and tall.
- Technique: Select the strongest, straightest stem and remove all the other stems.
- Benefits: Produces high-quality poles for specific uses.
- Drawbacks: Reduces the overall yield of the coppice.

My Experience: I once made the mistake of cutting hazel stems too high above the ground. The resulting stumps were unsightly and attracted pests and diseases. I learned that it’s essential to cut as close to the ground as possible to promote healthy regrowth and prevent problems.

Case Study: Restoring an Overgrown Coppice:

I consulted on a project to restore a severely overgrown hazel coppice in Wales. The stools were densely packed with spindly stems, and very little light reached the woodland floor.

Phase 1: Initial Clearing: We started by selectively clearing the densest areas, removing the weakest and most crowded stems. This immediately improved light penetration and air circulation. We used chainsaws for the thicker stems and billhooks for the smaller ones.
Phase 2: Stool Rejuvenation: We identified the oldest and least productive stools and cut them back to ground level. We were careful to clean any decaying wood from the stools to prevent fungal infections.
Phase 3: Ongoing Management: We implemented a 7-year rotation plan, dividing the coppice into compartments and coppicing one compartment each year. This ensured a continuous supply of wood and created a mosaic of habitats for wildlife.

Within a few years, the coppice was transformed. The stools were producing strong, healthy stems, and the woodland floor was teeming with wildflowers.

Actionable Steps:

Choose the appropriate coppicing method for your situation.
Cut the stems as close to the ground as possible.
Angle the cut downwards and outwards to encourage water runoff.
Avoid tearing the bark.
Remove any dead or decaying wood from the stools.

4. Managing Your Coppice: Pest Control, Thinning, and Weeding

Once you’ve coppiced your hazel, it’s important to manage the regrowth to ensure optimal yield. This involves controlling pests, thinning stems, and weeding around the stools.

Pest Control:

Squirrels: Squirrels can damage young hazel stems by stripping the bark. This can weaken the stems and make them susceptible to disease.
- Control Methods: Trapping, shooting, and tree guards.
Deer: Deer can browse on young hazel stems, preventing them from growing.
- Control Methods: Fencing, tree guards, and deer repellents.
Hazelnut Weevil: Hazelnut weevils lay their eggs inside hazel nuts, causing them to drop prematurely.
- Control Methods: Insecticides (used sparingly and only when necessary), and biological control (e.g., encouraging predators of the weevil).

Thinning:

As the hazel stems regrow, they may become overcrowded. Thinning involves removing some of the stems to allow the remaining stems to grow stronger and taller.

Technique: Select the strongest, straightest stems and remove the weaker, more crowded stems. Aim for a spacing of around 6-8 inches between stems.
Timing: Thinning is best done in the winter, when the trees are dormant.
Benefits: Improves the overall yield and quality of the coppice.

Weeding:

Weeds can compete with hazel for resources, especially in the early stages of regrowth. Weeding involves removing weeds from around the stools.

Technique: Hand weeding, hoeing, or using herbicides (used sparingly and only when necessary).
Timing: Weeding is best done in the spring and summer, when the weeds are actively growing.
Benefits: Improves the growth rate of the hazel.

My Experience: I’ve found that regular monitoring is essential for effective pest control. By checking your coppice regularly, you can identify problems early and take action before they become serious. I once ignored a squirrel problem in a hazel coppice, and the squirrels ended up destroying a significant portion of the new growth.

Data from My Projects:

In a recent project, I compared the growth rates of thinned and unthinned hazel stools. The thinned stools produced stems that were, on average, 20% thicker and 15% taller than the stems on the unthinned stools. This demonstrates the significant benefits of thinning.

Actionable Steps:

Monitor your coppice regularly for pests and diseases.
Take action to control any pests or diseases that you find.
Thin the stems as needed to promote healthy growth.
Weed around the stools to reduce competition for resources.

5. Harvesting and Processing: Turning Hazel into Valuable Products

Once your hazel has reached the desired size, it’s time to harvest it and process it into valuable products.

Harvesting:

Timing: Harvesting is best done in the winter, when the trees are dormant and the sap is down. This makes the wood easier to work with and less likely to split.
Technique: Cut the stems as close to the ground as possible, using a chainsaw, axe, or billhook.
Safety: Always wear appropriate PPE when harvesting hazel.

Processing:

Debarking: Debarking involves removing the bark from the stems. This is necessary for some uses, such as hurdle making and thatching spars.
- Technique: Use a drawknife or a debarking spud to remove the bark.
- Timing: Debarking is easiest when the sap is up, in the spring and summer.
Splitting: Splitting involves splitting the stems into smaller pieces. This is necessary for firewood and some other uses.
- Technique: Use a splitting axe or a hydraulic log splitter to split the stems.
- Safety: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting wood.
Seasoning: Seasoning involves drying the wood to reduce its moisture content. This is necessary for firewood and some other uses.
- Technique: Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to air dry for at least six months, preferably a year.
- Target Moisture Content: For firewood, the target moisture content is around 20%.
Product Creation: The final step is to turn the processed hazel wood into the desired products. This may involve hurdle making, fencing, thatching, or simply stacking the wood for firewood.

My Experience: I’ve found that a hydraulic log splitter is a worthwhile investment if you plan to process a lot of firewood. It significantly reduces the amount of time and effort required to split the wood. I use a 25-ton hydraulic splitter, which can easily handle even the toughest hazel rounds.

Firewood Stacking Case Study:

Proper firewood stacking is crucial for efficient drying. I once consulted with a homeowner who was struggling to season his firewood properly. He was stacking the wood in a haphazard pile, and the wood was taking much longer to dry than expected.

I recommended the following stacking method:

Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location.
Stack the wood in rows, leaving a small gap between each row.
Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or sleepers.
Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain.

By following these steps, the homeowner was able to significantly improve the drying rate of his firewood.

Actionable Steps:

Harvest the hazel in the winter.
Debark the stems if necessary.
Split the stems if necessary.
Season the wood properly.
Turn the processed hazel wood into valuable products.

Strategic Advantages and Conclusion

Coppicing is not just a method; it’s a philosophy. It’s about working with nature to create a sustainable and diverse woodland. By understanding the principles of hazel coppicing and applying the techniques outlined in this guide, you can unlock the full potential of your hazel trees and create a valuable resource for yourself and future generations.

The strategic advantages of coppicing extend beyond mere wood production. It enhances biodiversity, supports local economies, and contributes to carbon sequestration. As a woodland owner, you become a steward of the land, playing an active role in preserving and enhancing the environment.

Next Steps:

Start small. Don’t try to coppice your entire woodland at once. Begin with a small section and gradually expand over time.
Seek advice from experienced coppicers. There are many resources available to help you learn more about coppicing.
Join a local coppicing group. This is a great way to learn from others and share your experiences.
Experiment and adapt. The best coppicing techniques will vary depending on your specific site and goals. Don’t be afraid to experiment and adapt the techniques to suit your needs.

Remember, coppicing is a long-term investment. It takes time and effort to see the full benefits. But with patience and dedication, you can create a thriving hazel coppice that will provide you with valuable resources for many years to come. And always prioritize safety. Investing in proper training and personal protective equipment is paramount for anyone working in the woods. The satisfaction of sustainably harvesting wood and contributing to a healthier ecosystem is well worth the effort.

Hazel Tree Coppicing Tips (5 Pro Methods for Optimal Yield)