G660 Pro Chainsaw Tips For Milling (5 Expert Chain Choices)

Like the ancient mariners who relied on the stars to navigate the vast oceans, we, as woodworkers and millers, depend on our tools and techniques to navigate the dense world of timber. And just as a seasoned sailor knows his ship, a miller must know his chainsaw. Today, I’m here to guide you through the essential aspects of using the G660 Pro chainsaw for milling, focusing particularly on selecting the right chain. This isn’t just about horsepower; it’s about finesse, precision, and understanding the nuances of wood. Over the years, I’ve spent countless hours in the field, wrestling with logs of all shapes and sizes, and I’ve learned a thing or two about what works and what doesn’t. So, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.

G660 Pro Chainsaw Tips for Milling: 5 Expert Chain Choices

Understanding the Milling Game

Before we even think about chain selection, let’s set the stage. Milling with a chainsaw is a different beast than felling trees or bucking firewood. It’s about slicing a log lengthwise to create boards or slabs. This requires the chainsaw to work harder and longer, often in a horizontal plane, fighting gravity and wood resistance.

Why the G660 Pro? The Stihl MS 660 (or its clones, often referred to as G660 Pro) is a popular choice for milling due to its power and durability. It’s a workhorse that can handle larger logs. However, raw power alone isn’t enough.
The Importance of the Chain: The chain is your cutting edge. It determines the speed, smoothness, and efficiency of your milling operation. A dull or unsuitable chain can lead to frustration, wasted wood, and even damage to your chainsaw.

Wood Selection Criteria: Know Your Timber

The type of wood you’re milling will heavily influence your chain selection.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and walnut are denser and more resistant to cutting than softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar. Hardwoods require a chain with more aggressive cutters and a lower raker depth.
Moisture Content: Milling green (freshly cut) wood is generally easier than milling dry wood, as the wood is softer. However, green wood shrinks as it dries, which can cause warping and cracking. For optimal stability, I’ve found that air-drying lumber to around 12-15% moisture content before final milling significantly reduces these issues. A moisture meter is your best friend here. Technical Data Point: Wood shrinks approximately 1% for every 4% change in moisture content below the fiber saturation point (around 28-30%).
Log Size and Condition: Larger logs require longer bars and chains. Inspect the log for knots, embedded objects (nails, wire), and rot. These can damage your chain and pose safety hazards.
Case Study: I once tried milling a large oak log that had been submerged in a river for years. The wood was incredibly dense and waterlogged. I ended up using a ripping chain with a very shallow raker depth and had to sharpen it frequently. The resulting lumber was beautiful, but the process was much more challenging than milling a properly seasoned log.

Key Chain Characteristics for Milling

Before I jump into specific chain recommendations, let’s discuss the key characteristics to look for:

Chain Type: Ripping chains are specifically designed for milling. They have a unique cutter geometry that slices along the grain of the wood, rather than across it.
Cutter Style: Chisel cutters are aggressive and fast-cutting, ideal for hardwoods. Semi-chisel cutters are more durable and forgiving, suitable for softer woods and dirty logs.
Chain Pitch: The pitch is the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. Common pitches for milling are .404″ and 3/8″.
Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″. It’s critical to match the chain gauge to your bar’s groove width.
Raker Depth: The raker, or depth gauge, controls how much the cutter bites into the wood. A shallower raker depth is generally preferred for milling hardwoods, as it prevents the chain from bogging down. I’ve found that adjusting raker depth by as little as .005″ can make a noticeable difference in cutting performance.

5 Expert Chain Choices for the G660 Pro

Now, let’s get to the meat of the matter: my top chain recommendations for milling with the G660 Pro. Keep in mind that these recommendations are based on my experience and the specific milling conditions I’ve encountered. Your mileage may vary.

Oregon 72RD Ripping Chain (.404″ Pitch, .063″ Gauge): This is my go-to chain for milling hardwoods. The .404″ pitch provides excellent stability and cutting power, while the ripping cutter geometry ensures a smooth, clean cut along the grain. The .063″ gauge is common and readily available. I’ve used this chain to mill oak, maple, and walnut with great success. Personal Insight: I often file the rakers slightly lower than the factory setting to further optimize it for milling dense hardwoods.
- Pros: Excellent for hardwoods, smooth cuts, durable.
- Cons: Can be aggressive on softwoods, requires precise sharpening.
- Best For: Hardwoods, large logs, experienced millers.
Stihl RSC Ripping Chain (3/8″ Pitch, .063″ Gauge): Stihl’s ripping chain is another excellent option, especially if you prefer Stihl products. The 3/8″ pitch is a bit smaller than the .404″, which can result in a slightly faster cutting speed, but it may not be as stable on very large logs. The RSC (Rapid Super Comfort) cutter is a full chisel design, providing aggressive cutting performance.
- Pros: Fast cutting speed, aggressive cutter design, readily available.
- Cons: May not be as stable as .404″ on large logs, requires frequent sharpening.
- Best For: Mixed hardwoods and softwoods, medium to large logs, experienced millers.
Carlton A1LM Ripping Chain (.404″ Pitch, .063″ Gauge): Carlton chains are known for their durability and value. The A1LM ripping chain is a solid performer that can handle a variety of wood types. It’s a good choice for millers who are looking for a reliable chain at a reasonable price. I’ve found it to be particularly forgiving on dirty logs.
- Pros: Durable, good value, forgiving on dirty logs.
- Cons: Not as aggressive as Oregon or Stihl, may require more frequent sharpening.
- Best For: Mixed hardwoods and softwoods, smaller to medium logs, budget-conscious millers.
Husqvarna H42 Ripping Chain (3/8″ Pitch, .050″ Gauge): Husqvarna’s ripping chain is a good option if you prefer Husqvarna products or if you have a bar with a .050″ gauge. The 3/8″ pitch provides a good balance of cutting speed and stability. I’ve used this chain primarily on smaller softwood logs.
- Pros: Good balance of cutting speed and stability, suitable for softwoods, readily available.
- Cons: May not be aggressive enough for hardwoods, requires a .050″ gauge bar.
- Best For: Softwoods, smaller to medium logs, Husqvarna enthusiasts.
Oregon 73LGX Ripping Chain (3/8″ Pitch, .058″ Gauge): While not a dedicated ripping chain, the 73LGX is a versatile chain that can be used for both felling and milling. It features a semi-chisel cutter, which is more durable and forgiving than a full chisel. I recommend this chain for millers who want a single chain that can handle a variety of tasks. I’ve used it successfully on both hardwoods and softwoods, although it may require more frequent sharpening on hardwoods.
- Pros: Versatile, durable, forgiving.
- Cons: Not as efficient as a dedicated ripping chain, requires more frequent sharpening on hardwoods.
- Best For: Mixed hardwoods and softwoods, smaller to medium logs, millers who want a versatile chain.

Tool Calibration Standards: Setting Up Your Chainsaw for Milling

A properly calibrated chainsaw is essential for safe and efficient milling.

Chain Tension: Maintain proper chain tension. A loose chain can derail and cause injury, while a tight chain can overheat and damage the bar and chain. I check chain tension frequently during milling, especially when using a new chain.
Bar Alignment: Ensure the bar is properly aligned with the chainsaw body. Misalignment can cause uneven cuts and premature wear on the bar and chain.
Carburetor Adjustment: Adjust the carburetor to ensure the engine is running properly. A lean mixture can cause overheating, while a rich mixture can cause the engine to bog down. I often adjust the carburetor slightly leaner when milling to improve power and fuel efficiency.
Oiling System: Ensure the oiler is functioning properly and delivering adequate oil to the bar and chain. Insufficient lubrication can cause overheating and premature wear. I often increase the oiler output when milling to ensure adequate lubrication.
RPMs: Adjust the RPM to the wood, and chain you are using.

Safety Equipment Requirements: Protect Yourself

Milling can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not taken.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
Safe Milling Practices: Follow safe milling practices, such as keeping a safe distance from the chainsaw, avoiding kickback, and using a chainsaw mill attachment to guide the saw.
First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of injury.
Emergency Plan: Have an emergency plan in place in case of an accident.

The Art of Sharpening: Keeping Your Edge

A sharp chain is crucial for efficient milling. A dull chain will produce rough cuts, waste wood, and put unnecessary strain on your chainsaw.

Sharpening Tools: Invest in quality sharpening tools, including a chainsaw file, file guide, and depth gauge tool.
Sharpening Technique: Learn the proper sharpening technique for your chain type. Maintain the correct filing angle and depth. I sharpen my chains frequently, often after every few cuts, to ensure optimal performance.
Depth Gauge Adjustment: Periodically check and adjust the depth gauges (rakers) to ensure they are at the correct height.
Professional Sharpening: Consider having your chains professionally sharpened if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

Practical Tips and Best Practices for Accurate Implementation

Use a Chainsaw Mill Attachment: A chainsaw mill attachment will help you make straight, accurate cuts. There are many different types of chainsaw mill attachments available, from simple Alaskan mills to more sophisticated frame mills.
Start with a Level Surface: Ensure the log is resting on a level surface before you start milling. This will help you make consistent cuts.
Use Shims: Use shims to support the slab as you cut. This will prevent the slab from pinching the chain.
Take Your Time: Milling is not a race. Take your time and focus on making accurate cuts.
Debarking: Debarking a log prior to milling significantly extends the life of your chain. Bark contains dirt, grit, and other abrasive materials that dull the chain quickly. I use a drawknife or a debarking spud to remove the bark.
Log Rotation: Rotate the log periodically to ensure even drying and prevent warping. I typically rotate logs every few weeks during the initial drying phase.
Sealing the Ends: Seal the ends of the freshly milled lumber with a wax-based sealant to prevent end-checking (cracking). I use a commercially available log-end sealant, but you can also use thinned-down latex paint.
Stacking and Sticking: Properly stack and stick the lumber to allow for air circulation during drying. Use stickers (small pieces of wood) to separate the boards and create air gaps. I typically use 1″ x 1″ stickers spaced 2-3 feet apart.
Drying Location: Choose a drying location that is sheltered from direct sunlight and rain. A well-ventilated shed or barn is ideal.
Milling Green vs. Dry: I have milled both green and dry wood. Milling green wood is easier on the chain, but the resulting lumber will shrink and potentially warp as it dries. Milling dry wood is harder on the chain, but the lumber will be more stable.
Chain Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil. I prefer a synthetic oil for its superior lubricating properties and reduced environmental impact. I also add a small amount of tackifier to the oil to help it adhere to the chain.
Chain Cleaning: Regularly clean your chain to remove sawdust and debris. I use a wire brush and solvent to clean my chains.
Chain Storage: Store your chains in a dry place to prevent rust. I often coat my chains with oil before storing them.
Log Handling: Use proper log handling techniques to avoid injury. Logs can be heavy and awkward to move. Use log tongs, cant hooks, and other tools to assist you.

Understanding Wood Strength and Drying Tolerances

Wood Strength: Different wood species have different strength properties. Understanding these properties is important for selecting the right wood for your project. For example, oak is a strong and durable wood that is well-suited for structural applications, while pine is a softer wood that is better suited for non-structural applications. Data points regarding bending strength (Modulus of Rupture – MOR) and stiffness (Modulus of Elasticity – MOE) are readily available for various species.
Drying Tolerances: Wood shrinks as it dries, and different species shrink at different rates. Understanding these drying tolerances is important for preventing warping and cracking. For example, oak has a high shrinkage rate, while pine has a low shrinkage rate.

Original Research and Case Studies

I conducted a small-scale study comparing the performance of two different ripping chains (Oregon 72RD and Stihl RSC) on milling white oak logs. I milled three logs of similar size and moisture content using each chain. I measured the milling time, the surface finish of the lumber, and the amount of chain wear. The results showed that the Oregon 72RD chain was slightly faster and produced a smoother surface finish, while the Stihl RSC chain showed less wear.

Project: Milling white oak lumber for a custom table.
Log Dimensions: Diameter: 24 inches, Length: 8 feet.
Wood Moisture Content: 25% (green).
Chainsaw: G660 Pro with a 36-inch bar.
Chain: Oregon 72RD ripping chain.
Mill Attachment: Alaskan mill.
Process: I milled the log into 2-inch thick slabs. The milling process took approximately 4 hours.
Results: The resulting lumber was beautiful and well-suited for the table project.
Challenges: The log was heavy and difficult to handle. I had to use a log splitter to split the log into manageable pieces.
Lessons Learned: Proper log handling techniques are essential for safe and efficient milling.

Final Thoughts: The Journey is the Reward

Milling with a chainsaw is a challenging but rewarding endeavor. It requires patience, skill, and a deep understanding of wood and tools. By following the tips and recommendations in this guide, you can increase your chances of success and create beautiful, high-quality lumber. Remember, the journey is just as important as the destination. Embrace the challenges, learn from your mistakes, and enjoy the process of transforming raw logs into valuable resources. Happy milling!

G660 Pro Chainsaw Tips for Milling (5 Expert Chain Choices)