G660 Chainsaw Guide (5 Expert Tips For Efficient Woodcutting)

G660 Chainsaw Guide: 5 Expert Tips for Efficient Woodcutting

As someone who’s spent countless hours in the woods, felling trees and processing wood, I know firsthand the importance of a reliable chainsaw. The Stihl G660, in my opinion, is a workhorse. It’s a powerful machine that can handle some seriously demanding tasks. But like any tool, it performs best when you understand its capabilities and limitations. This guide isn’t just about using a chainsaw; it’s about mastering the G660 for efficient and safe woodcutting. I’m going to share five expert tips that I’ve learned over the years, focusing on techniques, maintenance, and safety that will help you get the most out of your G660.

1. Mastering the G660: Understanding Its Power and Specifications

Before you even think about firing up your G660, it’s crucial to understand what this machine is capable of and its technical specifications. This isn’t just about knowing the engine displacement; it’s about understanding how that power translates into real-world cutting performance.

My Personal Experience: I remember one time, early in my career, I underestimated the power of a similar saw. I was trying to fell a large oak, and I got impatient. I didn’t use the proper felling techniques, and the tree kicked back, nearly causing a serious accident. That experience taught me a valuable lesson: respect the power of the chainsaw and always prioritize safety.

Technical Specifications:

Engine Displacement: Typically around 91.6 cc (5.6 cu in) – This is a key indicator of the saw’s power. A larger displacement generally means more power for cutting through larger logs.
Power Output: Around 5.2 kW (7.0 bhp) – This tells you how much work the engine can do. More power translates to faster cutting speeds and the ability to handle tougher wood.
Weight (Powerhead Only): Approximately 7.4 kg (16.3 lbs) – Weight is a critical factor, especially for prolonged use. A heavier saw can lead to fatigue and reduced control.
Guide Bar Length: Commonly used with bars ranging from 20″ to 36″ (50 cm to 90 cm) – The appropriate bar length depends on the size of the wood you’re cutting.
Fuel Tank Capacity: Around 0.825 L (27.9 oz) – Knowing the fuel capacity helps you plan your work and avoid running out of fuel mid-cut.
Oil Tank Capacity: Around 0.36 L (12.2 oz) – Proper chain lubrication is essential for smooth cutting and extending the life of your chain and bar.

Data-Backed Insights:

Wood Strength and Density: Hardwoods like oak and maple require more power to cut than softwoods like pine and fir. The G660 is well-suited for hardwoods, but even with this powerful saw, understanding wood density is crucial for efficient cutting. Oak, for example, has a density ranging from 0.60 to 0.90 g/cm³, while pine ranges from 0.35 to 0.50 g/cm³.
Chain Speed: The chain speed of the G660 can reach up to 25 m/s (82 ft/s). This high chain speed allows for fast and efficient cutting, but it also increases the risk of kickback if not handled properly.

Practical Tips:

Match the Bar Length to the Task: Don’t use a 36″ bar to cut small branches. It’s inefficient and increases the risk of kickback. Choose the shortest bar that’s appropriate for the size of the wood you’re cutting.
Understand the Power-to-Weight Ratio: The G660 is a powerful saw, but it’s also relatively heavy. Be aware of your physical limitations and take breaks to avoid fatigue.
Check the Fuel and Oil Levels Regularly: Running out of fuel or oil mid-cut can damage your saw and create a safety hazard.

2. Chain Selection and Maintenance: The Key to Efficient Cutting

The chain is the heart of your chainsaw. A sharp, properly maintained chain will cut faster, smoother, and safer than a dull or damaged chain. I’ve seen firsthand how a well-maintained chain can transform the performance of a chainsaw, making even the toughest jobs easier.

My Personal Experience: I once spent an entire day struggling to cut through a pile of seasoned oak with a dull chain. I was exhausted and frustrated. Finally, I took the time to sharpen the chain properly, and it was like using a completely different saw. The oak practically melted away. That day, I learned the importance of chain maintenance.

Chain Types and Their Uses:

Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered teeth and are the fastest cutting chains. They are best suited for clean wood and experienced users.
Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-corner teeth and are more durable than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting and dirty wood.
Low-Profile Chains: These chains have a smaller profile and are designed to reduce kickback. They are a good choice for beginners and homeowners.

Chain Sharpening Techniques:

File Sharpening: This is the most common method for sharpening chainsaw chains. It involves using a round file and a depth gauge tool to sharpen each tooth to the correct angle and depth.
Electric Sharpeners: These sharpeners use a grinding wheel to sharpen the chain. They are faster than file sharpening, but they can also damage the chain if not used properly.

Data-Backed Insights:

Chain Sharpness and Cutting Speed: A sharp chain can cut through wood up to 50% faster than a dull chain. This not only saves time but also reduces the strain on the chainsaw engine and the operator.
Chain Lubrication and Wear: Proper chain lubrication can extend the life of your chain and bar by up to 30%. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws.
Chain Tension: Correct chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.

Practical Tips:

Sharpen Your Chain Regularly: Don’t wait until your chain is completely dull. Sharpen it every time you refuel your saw or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance.
Use the Correct File Size: The correct file size depends on the chain pitch. Consult your chainsaw’s manual for the recommended file size.
Maintain the Correct Sharpening Angle: The correct sharpening angle is typically around 30 degrees. Use a file guide to ensure that you maintain the correct angle.
Clean Your Chain Regularly: Remove sawdust and debris from your chain after each use. This will help to prevent corrosion and extend the life of your chain.

3. Felling Techniques: Precision and Safety First

Felling a tree is one of the most dangerous tasks you can perform with a chainsaw. It requires careful planning, precise cutting, and a thorough understanding of tree behavior. I’ve seen too many accidents caused by improper felling techniques.

My Personal Experience: I was once working with a crew felling trees in a dense forest. One of the crew members, a young and inexperienced logger, tried to fell a tree that was leaning heavily in one direction. He didn’t use the proper felling techniques, and the tree fell in the wrong direction, narrowly missing another crew member. That incident reinforced the importance of proper felling techniques.

Felling Planning:

Assess the Tree: Before you start cutting, carefully assess the tree. Look for lean, wind direction, and any signs of decay or weakness.
Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles from the area around the tree and your escape route.

Felling Cuts:

The Notch: The notch is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. It should be cut on the side of the tree that you want it to fall towards. The notch should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
The Hinge: The hinge is a strip of wood that is left uncut between the notch and the back cut. It controls the fall of the tree and prevents it from kicking back. The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
The Back Cut: The back cut is a horizontal cut that is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be made slightly above the bottom of the notch.

Data-Backed Insights:

Tree Lean and Felling Direction: A tree that is leaning more than 15 degrees should be felled in the direction of the lean. Attempting to fell it against the lean can be extremely dangerous.
Hinge Size and Tree Control: The size of the hinge directly affects the control you have over the falling tree. A hinge that is too small can cause the tree to fall unpredictably, while a hinge that is too large can cause the tree to split or shatter.
Kickback Risk: Kickback is a sudden and violent upward or backward motion of the chainsaw bar. It is a major cause of chainsaw injuries. Always use a chainsaw with a chain brake and be aware of the risk of kickback.

Practical Tips:

Use a Felling Wedge: A felling wedge can be used to help push the tree over in the desired direction.
Communicate with Your Team: If you are working with a team, make sure everyone is aware of your felling plan and escape route.
Never Turn Your Back on a Falling Tree: Once you start the back cut, never turn your back on the tree. Watch it carefully and be prepared to move quickly if necessary.
Practice Makes Perfect: Felling trees is a skill that takes practice. Start with small trees and gradually work your way up to larger trees.

4. Wood Processing Techniques: From Log to Firewood

Once you’ve felled a tree, the next step is to process it into usable wood. This can involve bucking (cutting the tree into shorter lengths), splitting, and stacking. The G660 is well-suited for bucking large logs, but it’s important to use the right techniques to avoid pinching the bar and chain.

My Personal Experience: I remember one time, I was bucking a large log and I didn’t use the proper support. The log rolled over and pinched the bar and chain. I had to use a sledgehammer to free the saw. That experience taught me the importance of proper log support and bucking techniques.

Bucking Techniques:

Support the Log: Before you start cutting, make sure the log is properly supported. Use logs, rocks, or other supports to prevent the log from rolling or pinching the bar and chain.
Cut from the Top: When bucking a log that is supported at both ends, cut from the top down. This will prevent the log from pinching the bar and chain.
Cut from the Bottom: When bucking a log that is supported in the middle, cut from the bottom up. This will also prevent the log from pinching the bar and chain.

Splitting Techniques:

Use a Splitting Maul: A splitting maul is a heavy, wedge-shaped axe that is designed for splitting wood.
Use a Splitting Wedge: A splitting wedge is a metal wedge that is driven into the wood with a sledgehammer.
Hydraulic Log Splitters: These are powered machines that use hydraulic pressure to split logs. They are faster and easier to use than manual splitting methods, but they are also more expensive.

Data-Backed Insights:

Wood Moisture Content and Splitting Difficulty: Wood that is freshly cut (green wood) is generally easier to split than wood that has been seasoned (dried). Green wood has a higher moisture content, which lubricates the fibers and makes them more pliable.
Log Diameter and Splitting Force: The larger the diameter of the log, the more force is required to split it. Logs with a diameter of more than 12 inches may require a hydraulic log splitter.
Firewood Drying Time and Moisture Content: Firewood should be dried to a moisture content of less than 20% before it is burned. This typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method.

Practical Tips:

Use Proper Safety Gear: Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toed boots when processing wood.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Make sure the area around you is clear of obstacles and other people.
Take Breaks: Processing wood can be physically demanding. Take breaks to avoid fatigue.
Stack Your Firewood Properly: Stack your firewood in a way that allows for good air circulation. This will help it to dry faster.

5. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Others

Chainsaw safety is paramount. It’s not just about protecting yourself; it’s about protecting those around you. I’ve witnessed firsthand the devastating consequences of chainsaw accidents.

My Personal Experience: I once saw a logger who wasn’t wearing proper safety gear get seriously injured when a tree kicked back and struck him in the head. He survived, but he suffered permanent brain damage. That incident made me a firm believer in the importance of safety.

Essential Safety Gear:

Helmet: A helmet protects your head from falling branches and kickback.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Gloves protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are made of ballistic nylon and are designed to stop the chain in the event of a kickback.
Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.

Safe Operating Practices:

Read the Manual: Before you use your chainsaw, read the owner’s manual carefully.
Inspect Your Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect your chainsaw for any damage or wear.
Start the Chainsaw on the Ground: Never start a chainsaw while it is hanging from your hand or leg.
Use a Firm Grip: Always use a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
Keep Your Feet Firmly Planted: Maintain a stable stance and keep your feet firmly planted on the ground.
Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to avoid it.
Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and can lead to loss of control.
Never Operate a Chainsaw When You Are Tired or Under the Influence of Drugs or Alcohol: Operating a chainsaw requires focus and concentration.

Data-Backed Insights:

Chainsaw Injury Statistics: Chainsaw injuries are a significant cause of workplace accidents. According to the CDC, approximately 30,000 people are treated in emergency rooms each year for chainsaw-related injuries.
The Effectiveness of Safety Gear: Studies have shown that wearing proper safety gear can significantly reduce the risk of chainsaw injuries. For example, chainsaw chaps can reduce the risk of leg injuries by up to 80%.
Kickback Angle: Kickback typically occurs within a 45-degree angle of the upper quadrant of the chainsaw bar tip.

Practical Tips:

Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: A chainsaw safety course can teach you the proper techniques for operating a chainsaw safely.
Practice Proper Cutting Techniques: Practice proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
Keep Your Chainsaw in Good Repair: A well-maintained chainsaw is a safer chainsaw.
Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner when felling trees or processing wood.

Conclusion:

The Stihl G660 is a powerful and versatile chainsaw that can be used for a variety of woodcutting tasks. However, it’s essential to understand its capabilities and limitations, as well as the proper techniques for using it safely and efficiently. By following these five expert tips, you can get the most out of your G660 and enjoy years of safe and productive woodcutting. Remember, safety should always be your top priority. Take the time to learn the proper techniques, wear the necessary safety gear, and be aware of your surroundings. With the right knowledge and preparation, you can safely and efficiently tackle any woodcutting task.

G660 Chainsaw Guide (5 Expert Tips for Efficient Woodcutting)