Free Online Arborist Classes (5 Expert Tips For Efficient Wood Processing)

Unlock Efficiency and Master Wood Processing: Your Free Arborist Class Awaits

As someone who’s spent decades in the woods, from felling towering oaks to meticulously stacking firewood for the winter, I’ve learned that efficient wood processing isn’t just about brute strength; it’s about strategy, knowledge, and using the right tools. In this free online arborist class, I’m going to share five expert tips that will transform your approach to wood processing, whether you’re a weekend warrior or a small-scale logging operation. My goal is to equip you with the knowledge to work smarter, not harder, while prioritizing safety and sustainability. Let’s dive in.

1. Strategic Felling: Setting the Stage for Efficient Processing

Felling a tree is more than just cutting it down; it’s the first step in a chain of events that dictates how easy or difficult the subsequent processing will be. A poorly felled tree can lead to dangerous situations and wasted time.

Understanding Tree Lean and Terrain

Before you even start your chainsaw, take the time to assess the tree’s lean, the surrounding terrain, and any obstacles like power lines or other trees. The natural lean is the direction the tree will most likely fall. I always use a plumb bob or a simple weighted string to get a precise reading of the lean. If the lean is significant, you might need to use wedges or pulling techniques to control the fall.

Terrain plays a crucial role, too. A steep slope can cause a tree to slide unpredictably after it’s felled. Clear any brush and debris from the intended felling path to create a safe and unobstructed area.

Felling Techniques: The Notch and Back Cut

The standard felling technique involves creating a notch and then making a back cut. The notch (also called a face cut) determines the direction of the fall. The back cut severs the remaining wood and allows the tree to fall.

The Notch: I usually cut a 70-degree open face notch. This type of notch gives you more control over the tree’s fall, especially if the lean is off. The depth of the notch should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
The Back Cut: The back cut should be made slightly above the base of the notch, leaving a hinge of uncut wood. This hinge acts as a guide, preventing the tree from twisting or kicking back. The thickness of the hinge depends on the tree’s size and species. For smaller trees (under 12 inches in diameter), a hinge of 1-2 inches is usually sufficient. For larger trees, you might need a hinge of 3-4 inches. I’ve found that using felling wedges in the back cut, especially on larger trees, is invaluable for controlling the fall.

Chainsaw Selection and Maintenance

Using the right chainsaw is crucial for safe and efficient felling. I recommend a chainsaw with a bar length that is at least two inches longer than the diameter of the tree you’re felling. For most felling work, a 50-60cc chainsaw is a good all-around choice. I personally use a Stihl MS 261 for smaller trees and a Stihl MS 462 for larger ones.

Chain Sharpness: A dull chain is a dangerous chain. Sharpen your chain regularly, ideally after every tank of fuel. I use a chainsaw file and a depth gauge tool to maintain the correct cutting angles.
Chain Tension: Check the chain tension before each use. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
Lubrication: Ensure the chain oil reservoir is full. Proper lubrication reduces friction and extends the life of the chain and bar.

Case Study: Felling a Leaning Oak

I once had to fell a large oak tree that was leaning heavily towards a power line. The situation was complicated, but I was able to fell the tree safely and accurately by using a combination of techniques. First, I used a tree climbing harness to ascend the tree and remove some of the upper branches to reduce the weight on the leaning side. Then, I used a combination of a open face notch and felling wedges to guide the fall away from the power line. Finally, I used a come-along attached to a nearby tree to pull the oak in the desired direction as it fell. This experience reinforced the importance of careful planning and using the right tools for the job.

2. Efficient Bucking: Maximizing Yield and Minimizing Waste

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into smaller, more manageable lengths. Efficient bucking maximizes the yield of usable wood and minimizes waste.

Planning Your Cuts

Before you start bucking, take a moment to plan your cuts. Consider the intended use of the wood (firewood, lumber, etc.) and cut the logs accordingly.

Firewood: I typically cut firewood into lengths of 16-18 inches, which fits most standard fireplaces and wood stoves.
Lumber: If you’re planning to mill the logs into lumber, cut them into lengths that match your sawmill’s capabilities.

Using a Bucking Saw or Chainsaw

You can use either a bucking saw or a chainsaw for bucking. A bucking saw is a manual saw that is designed for cutting logs. It is slower than a chainsaw, but it is also quieter and safer. I prefer to use a chainsaw for most bucking work because it is faster and more efficient. However, I still keep a bucking saw on hand for situations where I need to make precise cuts or where I don’t want to use a chainsaw.

Bucking Techniques: Avoiding Pinching

One of the biggest challenges in bucking is avoiding pinching, which occurs when the weight of the log closes the cut and binds the saw.

Cutting from Above: When cutting from above, make a partial cut (about 1/3 of the way through the log) and then finish the cut from below.
Cutting from Below: When cutting from below, support the log with branches or other logs to prevent it from sagging.
Using Wedges: If you anticipate pinching, insert wedges into the cut to keep it open.

Measuring and Marking

Accurate measuring and marking are essential for consistent firewood lengths. I use a measuring stick or a tape measure to mark the logs before cutting. I also use a lumber crayon to make the marks more visible.

Case Study: Maximizing Firewood Yield from a Fallen Ash Tree

A few years ago, a large ash tree fell in my yard during a storm. I wanted to maximize the amount of firewood I could get from the tree. I started by carefully inspecting the log for any signs of rot or decay. I then used a measuring stick to mark the log into 16-inch lengths, taking care to avoid any knots or branches. I used a chainsaw to buck the log into firewood, using the techniques described above to avoid pinching. In the end, I was able to get about two cords of firewood from the tree, which was enough to heat my home for several weeks.

3. Splitting Strategies: Manual vs. Mechanical

Splitting firewood is often the most physically demanding part of wood processing. Choosing the right splitting strategy can significantly reduce the effort required.

Manual Splitting: The Axe and Maul

Manual splitting involves using an axe or a maul to split the wood. An axe is a lighter tool that is used for splitting smaller pieces of wood. A maul is a heavier tool that is used for splitting larger pieces of wood.

Axe Selection: I recommend an axe with a head weight of 3-4 pounds for general splitting.
Maul Selection: For larger rounds, a maul with a head weight of 6-8 pounds is more effective.
Splitting Block: Use a sturdy splitting block that is about 12-18 inches high.
Technique: Position the wood on the splitting block and swing the axe or maul with a controlled motion. Aim for the center of the round or any existing cracks.

Mechanical Splitting: The Log Splitter

A log splitter is a machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split wood. Log splitters are much faster and easier to use than manual splitting, especially for large quantities of wood or for splitting tough wood species.

Types of Log Splitters: There are two main types of log splitters: hydraulic and kinetic. Hydraulic log splitters use hydraulic pressure to split the wood. Kinetic log splitters use a flywheel to generate power. Hydraulic log splitters are more common and are generally more powerful than kinetic log splitters.
Tonnage Rating: Log splitters are rated by tonnage, which indicates the amount of force they can exert. A log splitter with a tonnage rating of 20-30 tons is sufficient for most firewood splitting.
Safety: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when operating a log splitter. Keep your hands and feet clear of the splitting area.

Wood Species and Splitting Difficulty

Different wood species split differently. Softwoods like pine and fir are generally easier to split than hardwoods like oak and maple. Green wood (freshly cut wood) is also easier to split than seasoned wood (dried wood).

Easy Splitting: Pine, fir, poplar
Moderate Splitting: Ash, maple, birch
Difficult Splitting: Oak, elm, hickory

Case Study: From Axe to Hydraulic Splitter

For years, I relied solely on an axe and maul to split my firewood. It was a great workout, but it was also time-consuming and exhausting. A few years ago, I decided to invest in a hydraulic log splitter. The difference was night and day. I was able to split the same amount of firewood in a fraction of the time, and with much less effort. The log splitter has been a game-changer for me, especially when dealing with tough wood species like oak and elm.

4. Seasoning Firewood: Achieving Optimal Moisture Content

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying the wood to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.

Why Season Firewood?

Green wood can have a moisture content of 50% or more. Seasoned firewood, on the other hand, has a moisture content of 20% or less. Burning green wood results in:

Reduced Heat Output: Much of the heat energy is used to evaporate the water in the wood.
Increased Smoke: The water vapor cools the combustion process, leading to incomplete combustion and more smoke.
Creosote Buildup: Creosote is a flammable substance that can accumulate in your chimney, increasing the risk of a chimney fire.

Drying Methods: Air Drying vs. Kiln Drying

The most common method of seasoning firewood is air drying. Air drying involves stacking the firewood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally over time. Kiln drying is a faster method of seasoning firewood, but it requires specialized equipment.

Air Drying: Stack the firewood in rows, leaving space between the rows for air circulation. Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
Kiln Drying: Kiln drying involves placing the firewood in a heated chamber to accelerate the drying process.

Optimal Moisture Content

The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood.

Seasoning Time

The amount of time it takes to season firewood depends on the wood species, the climate, and the drying conditions. In general, it takes at least six months to season firewood properly. Hardwoods like oak and maple may take a year or more to season.

Softwoods: 6-9 months
Hardwoods: 12-18 months

Case Study: Building the Perfect Firewood Stack

I’ve experimented with different firewood stacking methods over the years. I’ve found that the “holzhaufen” method, a circular stack popular in some parts of Europe, is particularly effective for air drying. This method allows for excellent air circulation and maximizes the surface area exposed to the sun and wind. I build the holzhaufen on a gravel base to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the ground. I also cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. Using this method, I can typically season firewood in about half the time it would take using a traditional linear stack.

5. Safe Wood Handling and Storage: Protecting Yourself and Your Investment

Safe wood handling and storage are essential for preventing injuries and preserving the quality of your firewood.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Always wear appropriate PPE when handling firewood. This includes:

Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from flying debris.
Gloves: To protect your hands from splinters and cuts.
Steel-Toed Boots: To protect your feet from falling logs.
Hearing Protection: To protect your ears from the noise of chainsaws and log splitters.

Lifting Techniques

Use proper lifting techniques to avoid back injuries.

Bend your knees and keep your back straight.
Keep the load close to your body.
Avoid twisting your body while lifting.
Get help with heavy loads.

Storage Practices

Store firewood in a dry, well-ventilated area.

Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture absorption.
Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
Keep the wood away from buildings to prevent pest infestations.

Pest Control

Firewood can attract insects and rodents.

Store firewood away from your home.
Remove any loose bark or debris from the wood.
Consider treating the wood with an insecticide or rodenticide.

Case Study: Preventing a Back Injury

I once witnessed a friend suffer a serious back injury while lifting a heavy log. He was trying to move the log by himself, and he didn’t use proper lifting techniques. The injury kept him out of work for several weeks and required extensive physical therapy. This experience taught me the importance of using proper lifting techniques and getting help with heavy loads. Now, I always make sure to bend my knees, keep my back straight, and keep the load close to my body when lifting firewood. I also don’t hesitate to ask for help when I need it.

Moving Forward

These five expert tips are just the beginning. Efficient wood processing is a continuous learning process. I encourage you to experiment with different techniques, find what works best for you, and always prioritize safety. Remember, the goal is to work smarter, not harder, and to enjoy the satisfaction of transforming raw wood into a valuable resource. So, grab your chainsaw, axe, and safety gear, and get to work! The rewards of efficient wood processing are well worth the effort.