Firewood Prices Per Cord (5 Expert Tips for Smart Buying)
It’s a paradox, isn’t it? Firewood, the very essence of warmth and comfort, can leave you feeling cold if you don’t understand the market. I’ve seen folks happily pay top dollar for wood that wouldn’t even light a damp match, while others are shivering because they thought they snagged a steal, only to find their “firewood” was more water than wood. Buying firewood smart isn’t just about finding the cheapest price; it’s about understanding what you’re buying, where it comes from, and how to make sure you get the most heat for your hard-earned money. In this guide, I’ll share five expert tips, honed over years of handling timber and preparing firewood, to ensure you get the best bang for your buck.
Understanding Firewood Prices: An Expert’s Guide
Firewood prices can fluctuate wildly depending on location, time of year, wood type, and moisture content. The goal here is to empower you with the knowledge to make informed decisions, avoiding common pitfalls and maximizing the value of your firewood purchase.
Tip #1: Know Your Cord and Its True Meaning
The foundation of smart firewood buying is understanding the unit of measurement: the cord. But what is a cord, really?
- Defining the Cord: A cord is legally defined as a stacked pile of wood measuring 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long. That’s 128 cubic feet. However, that includes air space!
- The Face Cord (or Rick): This is where things get tricky. A face cord, also known as a rick or a stove cord, is not a cord. It’s typically 4 feet high and 8 feet long, but the width varies. If the wood is cut to 16-inch lengths (a common size), a face cord is one-third of a full cord. Always clarify the length of the wood when buying a face cord. A 12-inch cut will be a quarter cord, and an 18-inch cut will be three-eighths.
- The Importance of Measurement: Don’t just take the seller’s word for it. Visually inspect the stack. If possible, measure it. A slightly short cord adds up over multiple purchases.
- My Experience: I once helped a neighbor who swore he was being ripped off. The seller claimed he delivered a full cord. After measuring, it was closer to two-thirds of a cord. A simple conversation with the seller, armed with accurate measurements, resulted in a fair adjustment.
Tip #2: The Moisture Content Matters: Green vs. Seasoned Wood
The moisture content of firewood is arguably the most crucial factor affecting its heating value. Green wood, freshly cut, is loaded with water and will be difficult to light and burn inefficiently, producing more smoke and less heat. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has been properly dried and burns hotter and cleaner.
- Green Wood: Green wood can have a moisture content above 50%. Trying to burn it is an exercise in frustration. It hisses, steams, and produces minimal heat. Plus, burning green wood creates creosote, a flammable substance that builds up in your chimney, increasing the risk of chimney fires.
- Seasoned Wood: Seasoned wood should have a moisture content below 20%. It will be lighter, have cracks on the ends, and make a hollow sound when two pieces are struck together.
- The “Bang for Your Buck” Factor: Green wood might seem cheaper upfront, but you’ll need significantly more of it to produce the same amount of heat as seasoned wood. You’re essentially paying for water.
- How to Test Moisture Content: Invest in a wood moisture meter. They are relatively inexpensive and provide accurate readings. Insert the probes into a freshly split piece of wood. Aim for a reading below 20%.
- My Drying Process: After felling trees on my property (primarily oak and maple), I buck the logs into 16-inch lengths and immediately split them. Splitting increases the surface area exposed to air, accelerating the drying process. I then stack the wood in a single row, elevated off the ground on pallets, in a sunny and windy location. This allows for maximum air circulation. It usually takes 6-12 months for the wood to season properly in my climate (zone 6).
- Statistics: Studies have shown that burning seasoned wood can increase heating efficiency by as much as 30-40% compared to green wood.
Tip #3: Wood Type: BTU Powerhouse vs. Low-Heat Options
Not all firewood is created equal. Different wood species have different densities and resin contents, which directly impact their heat output (measured in British Thermal Units, or BTUs).
- High BTU Woods: These are your heavy hitters, producing the most heat per cord. Examples include:
- Oak: A classic choice, oak burns long and hot. Red oak has a slightly lower BTU rating than white oak.
- Hickory: Denser than oak, hickory provides excellent heat. It also has a distinct aroma.
- Beech: Another dense hardwood, beech burns cleanly and provides consistent heat.
- Hard Maple: A good all-around choice, hard maple is readily available in many areas.
- Medium BTU Woods: These are decent options, but you’ll need more of them to achieve the same heat output as high-BTU woods. Examples include:
- Ash: Easy to split and burns well, ash is a popular choice.
- Soft Maple: Less dense than hard maple, soft maple still provides reasonable heat.
- Cherry: Cherry has a pleasant aroma when burned.
- Low BTU Woods: These woods are best avoided for primary heating, as they burn quickly and produce relatively little heat. Examples include:
- Pine: Softwoods like pine are easy to light but burn quickly and produce a lot of smoke and creosote.
- Poplar: A very soft wood that burns very quickly.
- Aspen: Similar to poplar, aspen is not a good choice for heating.
- BTU Chart (Approximate Values per Cord):
- Oak: 24-28 million BTUs
- Hickory: 25-30 million BTUs
- Beech: 22-26 million BTUs
- Hard Maple: 20-24 million BTUs
- Ash: 20-24 million BTUs
- Pine: 14-18 million BTUs
- My Wood Selection Strategy: I primarily use oak for its high BTU content and long burn time. I supplement it with some ash, which is easier to split and ignite. I avoid pine altogether due to its high resin content and creosote production.
- Case Study: Comparing Oak and Pine: Let’s say you need 25 million BTUs to heat your home for a week. You could burn one cord of oak (approximately 25 million BTUs) or almost two cords of pine (approximately 14 million BTUs per cord). Even if the pine is cheaper per cord, you’ll end up spending more overall and dealing with more smoke and creosote.
Tip #4: Source Smart: Local Dealers, Self-Harvesting, and the “Free” Option
Where you get your firewood significantly impacts the price and quality. Explore different options to find the best deal for your needs.
- Local Firewood Dealers: Local dealers are often the most convenient option. Look for reputable dealers with a track record of providing quality, seasoned wood. Ask for references and check online reviews.
- Self-Harvesting (If Possible): If you have access to land and the necessary equipment, harvesting your own firewood can be the most cost-effective option. However, it requires a significant investment of time and effort.
- Equipment Needed: Chainsaw (I recommend a Stihl MS 271 FARM BOSS® for its versatility and power), axe (a Fiskars X27 Splitting Axe is a great choice), log splitter (a hydraulic splitter like the Champion 25-Ton Horizontal/Vertical Log Splitter significantly reduces the workload), safety gear (helmet, eye protection, ear protection, gloves, chaps).
- Felling Techniques: Before felling any trees, assess the surroundings for hazards (power lines, buildings, other trees). Use proper felling techniques, including making a notch cut and a back cut. Always be aware of the tree’s lean and potential falling direction.
- Bucking Logs: Bucking is the process of cutting the felled tree into manageable lengths. Use a chainsaw to cut the logs into desired lengths (typically 16 inches).
- Splitting Firewood: Splitting can be done manually with an axe or with a log splitter. A log splitter significantly reduces the physical strain.
- Safety First: Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. Always wear appropriate safety gear and follow safe operating procedures. Consider taking a chainsaw safety course.
- The “Free” Option (with Caution): Sometimes, you can find “free” firewood – downed trees on public land or from neighbors clearing their property. However, be cautious. Make sure you have permission to collect the wood, and be aware that it may be green or of low quality.
- Negotiating Prices: Don’t be afraid to negotiate, especially if you’re buying in bulk or if the wood isn’t perfectly seasoned.
- My Self-Harvesting Routine: Every year, I harvest several cords of wood from my property. I focus on removing dead or diseased trees, which improves the overall health of the forest. The process, from felling to stacking, takes several weeks, but the savings are significant.
- Cost Analysis: Self-Harvesting vs. Buying: Let’s say a cord of seasoned oak costs $300 from a local dealer. To self-harvest a cord, you’ll need to factor in the cost of equipment (chainsaw, axe, log splitter), fuel, and your time. While the initial investment in equipment can be substantial, it pays off over time. If you plan to harvest firewood regularly, self-harvesting can save you hundreds of dollars per year.
Tip #5: Timing is Everything: Buy Off-Season and Plan Ahead
Firewood prices follow a predictable seasonal pattern. Demand is highest during the fall and winter, when people are actively burning wood. Prices are typically lower in the spring and summer.
- The Off-Season Advantage: Buying firewood in the spring or summer can save you a significant amount of money. Dealers are often eager to clear out their inventory before the next heating season.
- Stockpiling for the Future: Buy more than you think you’ll need. Having a surplus of seasoned wood ensures you won’t run out during a cold snap.
- Drying Your Own Wood: If you buy green wood in the spring, you’ll have plenty of time to season it before winter.
- My Preemptive Strategy: I always have at least two years’ worth of firewood seasoned and ready to burn. This gives me peace of mind and allows me to take advantage of off-season pricing.
- Storage Tips: Store firewood in a dry, well-ventilated area, elevated off the ground. Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow. Proper storage helps prevent rot and insect infestations.
Advanced Insights and Considerations
Beyond the basics, here are some advanced tips to further optimize your firewood buying and usage.
Understanding Wood Density and Its Impact
The density of wood directly correlates with its BTU output and burn time. Dense hardwoods like oak and hickory pack more energy per volume than softwoods like pine. Knowing the density of different wood species allows you to make informed decisions about which wood to burn for your specific needs.
- Density Measurement: Wood density is typically measured in pounds per cubic foot (lbs/ft³).
- Impact on Burn Time: Denser woods burn slower and longer, requiring less frequent reloading of your stove or fireplace.
- Impact on Heat Output: Denser woods produce more heat per unit volume, providing a more efficient heating experience.
Optimizing Wood Splitting Techniques
The way you split your firewood can significantly impact its drying time and ease of burning.
- Split Size: Smaller pieces of wood dry faster than larger pieces. Aim for splits that are 4-6 inches in diameter.
- Splitting Pattern: Split wood along the grain to minimize resistance.
- Using a Wedge: For particularly tough logs, use a splitting wedge and a sledgehammer.
- Hydraulic Log Splitter Settings: When using a hydraulic log splitter, adjust the ram speed and splitting force based on the size and density of the logs. Start with a lower setting and gradually increase it as needed.
- My Splitting Method: I prefer using a Fiskars X27 splitting axe for smaller logs and a Champion 25-Ton log splitter for larger, tougher logs. The combination allows me to efficiently split a wide range of wood sizes and types.
Mastering Firewood Stacking for Efficient Drying
Proper firewood stacking is essential for maximizing air circulation and accelerating the drying process.
- Stacking Location: Choose a sunny and windy location for your woodpile.
- Elevating the Stack: Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or cinder blocks to prevent moisture from wicking up from the ground.
- Stacking Pattern: Use a crisscross pattern at the ends of the stack to provide stability.
- Spacing: Leave small gaps between the rows of wood to allow for air circulation.
- Covering the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
- My Stacking Design: I use a modified Holzhaufen stacking method, creating a circular stack with a central chimney for maximum air circulation.
Addressing Common Firewood Problems
Even with the best planning, you may encounter problems with your firewood. Here’s how to address some common issues.
- Insect Infestations: Inspect firewood for signs of insect infestations before bringing it into your home. Store firewood away from your house to minimize the risk of insects entering your home.
- Mold and Rot: Mold and rot can occur if firewood is not properly seasoned or stored. Remove any affected wood from the pile to prevent the spread of decay.
- Creosote Buildup: Burning unseasoned wood can lead to creosote buildup in your chimney, increasing the risk of chimney fires. Have your chimney inspected and cleaned regularly by a qualified professional.
Safety Considerations When Handling Firewood
Safety should always be your top priority when handling firewood.
- Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection when cutting or splitting firewood.
- Use Proper Lifting Techniques: Lift firewood with your legs, not your back, to prevent injuries.
- Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings when working with chainsaws or axes.
- Never Work Alone: Always have someone nearby when working with dangerous equipment.
- First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit readily available.
Conclusion: Becoming a Savvy Firewood Buyer
Buying firewood doesn’t have to be a gamble. By understanding the key concepts of cord measurement, moisture content, wood type, sourcing strategies, and timing, you can become a savvy firewood buyer and ensure you get the most heat for your money. Remember to prioritize safety and always be aware of your surroundings when handling firewood.
Now, take these tips and put them into action. Start by assessing your firewood needs for the upcoming season. Research local firewood dealers and compare prices. If you’re considering self-harvesting, evaluate your resources and equipment needs. By taking these steps, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying a warm and cozy winter without breaking the bank. And who knows, maybe you’ll even find a little bit of satisfaction in the process, connecting with nature and providing for your own comfort. That, in itself, is a warmth that money can’t buy.
