Fell a Tree with Wedges: Master Overcoming Back Lean (Pro Tips)

In the world of forestry and wood processing, technological advancements have revolutionized how we approach tree felling. From computerized felling heads on harvesters to sophisticated software that optimizes timber yield, the industry is constantly evolving. However, some time-honored techniques remain essential, especially when dealing with challenging trees. One such technique is using felling wedges to overcome back lean, a situation I’ve encountered countless times in my years of logging. This guide will delve into the art and science of using wedges to fell trees safely and effectively, drawing on my experiences and insights gained from years in the field.

Understanding Back Lean

Before diving into the techniques, it’s crucial to understand what back lean is and why it’s so dangerous. Back lean occurs when a tree’s center of gravity is positioned behind the hinge wood, the portion of the tree left uncut to guide its fall. This situation can cause the tree to fall backward, potentially trapping the saw, pinching the bar, or even falling on the operator.

• Identifying Back Lean: Look at the tree’s overall lean, branch distribution, and any signs of stress or imbalance.
• Assessing the Risk: Determine the severity of the back lean and the potential hazards in the surrounding area.
• Understanding Forces: Visualize the forces acting on the tree and how they will influence its fall.

My Experience: I remember one particularly stubborn oak that had a severe back lean due to years of growth against prevailing winds. Without proper wedging, that tree would have undoubtedly fallen back, potentially damaging valuable equipment.

Choosing the Right Wedges

The type of wedge you use can significantly impact the success and safety of the felling operation. There are primarily two types of wedges: plastic and metal.

• Plastic Wedges: These are lighter, safer for your chainsaw (less likely to damage the chain if accidentally contacted), and generally preferred for smaller to medium-sized trees. A good plastic wedge can withstand significant force and is less likely to spark in dry conditions.
  • Material: High-density polyethylene (HDPE) or similar durable polymers.
  • Size: Typically range from 5 to 12 inches in length.
  • Angle: A gradual taper is essential for effective lifting.
• Metal Wedges: These are more durable and provide greater lifting power, making them suitable for larger trees and more extreme back lean situations. However, they pose a risk to your chainsaw chain and can create sparks, increasing the risk of fire.
  • Material: Hardened steel or aluminum.
  • Size: Range from 8 to 16 inches or more.
  • Angle: Steeper angles provide more lift but require more force.

My Recommendation: For most situations, I prefer using plastic wedges due to their safety and versatility. However, for very large trees with severe back lean, a combination of plastic and metal wedges might be necessary.

Essential Tools and Equipment

Besides wedges, you’ll need a few other essential tools and equipment to fell trees safely and effectively.

• Chainsaw: A well-maintained chainsaw with a sharp chain is crucial. The size of the saw should be appropriate for the size of the tree.
• Hammer or Axe: Used to drive the wedges into the cut. A sledgehammer might be necessary for larger wedges.
• Felling Lever (Optional): Provides additional leverage for lifting the tree.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.
• First-Aid Kit: Always have a well-stocked first-aid kit on hand.
• Communication Device: A cell phone or two-way radio for emergencies.

Safety First: Never compromise on safety. Always wear appropriate PPE and ensure all equipment is in good working order.

The Felling Cut: A Step-by-Step Guide

The felling cut is the foundation of the entire process. A well-executed felling cut ensures that the tree falls in the intended direction.

1. The Undercut: This is the first cut, and it establishes the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet to form a notch.
   • Depth: The undercut should be approximately 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
   • Angle: The angled cut should be at a 45-degree angle.
   • Precision: Accuracy is crucial. A poorly executed undercut can cause the tree to fall in the wrong direction.
2. The Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the undercut. It should be level and slightly above the horizontal cut of the undercut.
   • Leaving the Hinge: The back cut should leave a hinge of uncut wood. The hinge controls the direction of the fall.
   • Hinge Thickness: The hinge should be approximately 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
   • Hinge Width: The width of the hinge should be slightly less than the width of the undercut.
3. Inserting the Wedges: Once the back cut is nearly complete, insert the wedges into the cut behind the chainsaw bar.
   • Placement: Place the wedges as far back in the cut as possible.
   • Number of Wedges: Use two or more wedges, depending on the size of the tree and the severity of the back lean.
   • Alternating Wedges: Drive the wedges in alternately, ensuring that they are evenly spaced and exerting equal pressure.

My Tip: Always keep a close eye on the tree as you make the back cut. Listen for any cracking or popping sounds, which could indicate that the tree is about to fall.

Overcoming Back Lean with Wedges: Techniques and Strategies

The key to overcoming back lean is to use the wedges to lift the tree forward, shifting its center of gravity and encouraging it to fall in the desired direction.

1. Progressive Wedging: This involves gradually driving the wedges in deeper, little by little, until the tree begins to move.
   • Small Increments: Avoid driving the wedges in too far at once.
   • Constant Monitoring: Continuously monitor the tree’s movement and adjust the wedging accordingly.
   • Listen for Sounds: Pay attention to any sounds the tree makes, such as creaking or groaning.
2. Leverage and Mechanical Advantage: Use a felling lever in conjunction with the wedges to increase the lifting force.
   • Placement: Position the felling lever between the wedges and the tree trunk.
   • Applying Force: Use your body weight to apply steady, controlled pressure to the lever.
   • Coordination: Coordinate the use of the lever with the wedging process.
3. Multiple Wedges: Using multiple wedges strategically placed can provide greater lifting power and stability.
   • Spacing: Ensure that the wedges are evenly spaced and exerting equal pressure.
   • Stacking: If necessary, stack smaller wedges on top of larger ones to increase the lifting height.
   • Secure Placement: Make sure that the wedges are securely seated in the cut.
4. The “Dutchman” Technique: In extreme cases of back lean, a “Dutchman” cut can be used to create a weak point in the back of the tree, encouraging it to fall forward.
   • Description: The Dutchman cut is a small, angled cut made in the back of the tree, above the back cut.
   • Caution: This technique should only be used by experienced fellers, as it can be unpredictable.
   • Controlled Weakening: The goal is to weaken the back of the tree just enough to allow the wedges to overcome the back lean.

Case Study: I once had to fell a massive cottonwood tree with a severe back lean. I used a combination of progressive wedging, a felling lever, and multiple wedges to successfully bring it down in the desired direction. It took several hours of careful work, but the result was a safe and controlled felling.

Safety Considerations

Safety is paramount when felling trees, especially when dealing with back lean.

• Clear the Area: Ensure that the area around the tree is clear of people, equipment, and obstacles.
• Escape Routes: Plan your escape routes in advance and make sure they are clear.
• Communication: Maintain clear communication with anyone assisting you.
• Weather Conditions: Be aware of the weather conditions, especially wind. Strong winds can make felling trees extremely dangerous.
• Fatigue: Avoid felling trees when you are tired or distracted.
• Professional Training: Consider taking a professional tree felling course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.

My Personal Rule: If I ever feel uncomfortable or unsure about a felling situation, I always err on the side of caution and seek professional help.

Advanced Techniques

Once you’ve mastered the basic techniques, you can explore some more advanced methods for dealing with challenging trees.

• Using a Winch: A winch can provide additional pulling power to overcome back lean.
  • Secure Anchor Point: Ensure that the winch is securely anchored to a stable object.
  • Controlled Pulling: Apply steady, controlled pulling force, coordinating with the wedging process.
  • Safety Precautions: Use appropriate safety precautions when working with a winch.
• Pre-Tensioning: This involves using ropes or cables to apply tension to the tree before making the felling cut.
  • Strategic Placement: Position the ropes or cables to pull the tree in the desired direction.
  • Gradual Tension: Apply tension gradually, monitoring the tree’s movement.
  • Cutting Under Tension: Be extremely careful when cutting a tree under tension.
• Using Explosives (Controlled Blasting): In some cases, explosives may be used to fell trees with extreme back lean or other challenging conditions.
  • Expertise Required: This technique should only be used by trained and licensed professionals.
  • Safety Protocols: Strict safety protocols must be followed.
  • Regulations: Adhere to all local regulations and permits.

Important Note: Advanced techniques require specialized knowledge and training. Do not attempt these methods without proper expertise.

Wood Type Considerations

The type of wood you’re working with can affect how you approach the felling process. Different wood species have different densities, strengths, and splitting characteristics.

• Hardwoods: These are generally denser and stronger than softwoods, requiring more force to fell and split. Examples include oak, maple, and hickory.
  • Splitting: Hardwoods can be more difficult to split, often requiring a hydraulic log splitter.
  • Drying: Hardwoods typically take longer to dry than softwoods.
• Softwoods: These are generally less dense and easier to work with. Examples include pine, fir, and spruce.
  • Splitting: Softwoods are easier to split by hand.
  • Drying: Softwoods dry more quickly than hardwoods.
• Wood Density: The density of the wood affects how it responds to wedging and splitting. Denser woods require more force.
• Grain Pattern: The grain pattern can influence how the wood splits. Straight-grained wood is easier to split than wood with knots or twisted grain.

My Observation: I’ve noticed that oak tends to be more resistant to wedging than pine, requiring more force and a steeper wedge angle.

Chainsaw Maintenance and Care

A well-maintained chainsaw is essential for safe and efficient tree felling.

• Chain Sharpening: Keep the chain sharp to ensure clean, efficient cuts. A dull chain can be dangerous and increase the risk of kickback.
  • Frequency: Sharpen the chain regularly, depending on the type of wood you’re cutting and the amount of use.
  • Technique: Use a chainsaw file or a chain grinder to sharpen the chain.
  • Angle: Maintain the correct sharpening angle for optimal performance.
• Bar Maintenance: Keep the bar clean and lubricated. Check the bar rails for wear and damage.
  • Cleaning: Clean the bar regularly with a wire brush.
  • Lubrication: Use chainsaw bar oil to lubricate the bar and chain.
  • Flipping: Flip the bar periodically to distribute wear evenly.
• Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper engine performance.
  • Frequency: Clean the air filter after each use or more frequently in dusty conditions.
  • Method: Use compressed air or a brush to clean the air filter.
• Spark Plug: Check the spark plug regularly and replace it as needed.
  • Inspection: Inspect the spark plug for fouling or damage.
  • Replacement: Replace the spark plug according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture for your chainsaw.
  • Ratio: Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the fuel-to-oil ratio.
  • Fresh Fuel: Use fresh fuel and mix it properly.

My Practice: I always clean and inspect my chainsaw after each use, ensuring that it’s ready for the next job.

Log Splitting Techniques

Once the tree is felled, the next step is to split the logs into manageable pieces for firewood.

• Manual Splitting: This involves using a splitting axe or maul to split the logs by hand.
  • Technique: Position the log on a chopping block and strike it with the axe or maul.
  • Aim: Aim for the center of the log or any existing cracks.
  • Safety: Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from flying debris.
• Hydraulic Log Splitter: This is a machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs.
  • Types: There are two main types of hydraulic log splitters: horizontal and vertical.
  • Operation: Place the log on the splitter and activate the hydraulic ram to split the log.
  • Safety: Follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions and wear appropriate PPE.
• Wedges and Sledgehammer: For larger or tougher logs, you can use wedges and a sledgehammer to split them.
  • Placement: Drive the wedges into the log using the sledgehammer.
  • Multiple Wedges: Use multiple wedges if necessary.
  • Persistence: Be patient and persistent.

My Preference: I prefer using a hydraulic log splitter for large quantities of firewood, as it saves time and reduces physical strain.

Wood Drying and Seasoning

After splitting the logs, they need to be dried and seasoned before they can be used as firewood.

• Moisture Content: Freshly cut wood has a high moisture content, typically around 50%. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.
• Drying Time: The drying time depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the storage conditions. Generally, it takes at least six months to a year to properly season firewood.
• Stacking: Stack the firewood in a way that allows for good air circulation.
  • Elevated: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent moisture absorption.
  • Spacing: Leave space between the rows of wood to allow for air flow.
  • Covering: Cover the top of the woodpile to protect it from rain and snow.
• Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood.
  • Testing: Insert the probes of the moisture meter into the split face of the wood.
  • Reading: Read the moisture content on the meter’s display.

My Rule of Thumb: I always let my firewood season for at least a year before burning it.

Firewood Storage

Proper firewood storage is essential to keep it dry and prevent rot.

• Location: Choose a location that is well-drained and has good air circulation.
• Shelter: Protect the firewood from rain and snow with a roof or tarp.
• Pest Control: Keep the storage area clean and free of pests.
• Stacking: Stack the firewood neatly and securely to prevent it from falling over.
• Accessibility: Ensure that the firewood is easily accessible when you need it.

My Setup: I have a dedicated firewood shed with a sloped roof and open sides for optimal drying and storage.

Conclusion

Felling trees with back lean requires a combination of knowledge, skill, and caution. By understanding the principles of wedging, using the right tools and techniques, and prioritizing safety, you can successfully overcome this challenge and fell trees safely and efficiently. Remember to always assess the situation carefully, plan your approach, and never hesitate to seek professional help when needed. With practice and experience, you’ll become a master of felling trees, even those with the most stubborn back lean.

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