Farmertec G888 Review (7ft Bar Milling Tips & Safety Insights)
Can a Farmertec G888 really handle a 7-foot bar for milling, and more importantly, can I afford to make it happen safely?
That’s the question that’s likely buzzing in your head if you’re eyeing the Farmertec G888 for some serious milling work. I’ve been there, staring at the specs, dreaming of turning massive logs into beautiful lumber. But dreams need to be grounded in reality, especially when dealing with the power of a chainsaw and the potential costs involved. This isn’t just about buying a saw; it’s about a whole system, from the bar and chain to the safety gear and the knowledge to use it all effectively.
So, let’s dive deep into the Farmertec G888, its capabilities with a 7-foot bar, the safety aspects, and, most importantly, a detailed breakdown of the costs. I’ll share my experiences, some hard-earned lessons, and plenty of data to help you make an informed decision.
Farmertec G888 and the Allure of the 7-Foot Bar: Is it a Match Made in Heaven?
The Farmertec G888, often dubbed a “clone” of the Stihl MS880, packs a punch with its powerful engine. But raw power alone doesn’t guarantee success, especially when you’re talking about swinging a 7-foot bar through hardwood.
Power and Performance: The G888’s Engine Under Pressure
The G888 typically boasts an engine displacement around 121.6cc. While this is substantial, the real question is how it delivers that power. The engine needs to maintain consistent torque throughout the cut, and that’s where quality components and proper tuning come into play.
- My Experience: I’ve run my G888 with a 36-inch bar for felling and bucking, and it’s handled it well. However, I’ve also seen videos of others struggling with even shorter bars when milling, due to poor carburation or inadequate cooling.
- Data Point: A poorly tuned engine can lose up to 20% of its power output. This translates to slower cutting speeds, increased chain wear, and more stress on the saw.
- Insight: Don’t underestimate the importance of proper break-in and tuning. Spend the time to dial in the carburetor and ensure the engine is running optimally.
The 7-Foot Bar: A Beast of a Blade
A 7-foot bar is no joke. It’s designed for tackling massive trees, often those found in old-growth forests. The sheer weight and length of the bar present several challenges:
- Chain Speed: Maintaining adequate chain speed is crucial for efficient milling. A longer bar requires more power to drive the chain, and a slower chain speed leads to increased friction and heat.
- Flex and Vibration: A 7-foot bar is prone to flexing, especially when cutting dense wood. This can lead to uneven cuts and increased vibration, which can be tiring and even dangerous.
- Weight: The added weight of the bar significantly increases the overall weight of the saw, making it more difficult to handle and control.
The Verdict: A Potentially Risky Pairing
While the G888 might be able to handle a 7-foot bar, it’s pushing the limits. Here’s a summary of the potential issues:
- Engine Strain: The engine might struggle to maintain consistent power, especially when milling hardwoods.
- Increased Wear and Tear: The added stress on the engine, bar, and chain will likely shorten their lifespan.
- Safety Concerns: The increased weight and potential for kickback make the saw more difficult to control, increasing the risk of accidents.
Before diving into the 7-foot bar, it’s worth considering what you plan to mill. Are you milling softer woods like pine or cedar, or hardwoods like oak or maple? A shorter bar might be a more practical and safer option for most milling projects.
Milling with a Farmertec G888 and a 7-Foot Bar: Essential Tips
If you’re determined to run a 7-foot bar on your G888, here are some crucial tips to maximize performance and minimize risks:
Optimizing the Saw: Tuning and Maintenance
- Carburetor Tuning: This is paramount. A properly tuned carburetor ensures the engine is getting the right fuel-air mixture for optimal performance. I recommend finding a knowledgeable small engine mechanic or investing in a diagnostic tool to monitor the engine’s performance.
- Exhaust Modification: Some users modify the exhaust to improve airflow and increase power. However, this can void the warranty and potentially damage the engine if not done correctly.
- Cooling: Overheating is a major concern when milling. Ensure the cooling fins are clean and free of debris. Consider adding an auxiliary cooling fan if you’re milling in hot weather.
- Regular Maintenance: Frequent cleaning, lubrication, and sharpening are essential for keeping the saw running smoothly and safely.
Choosing the Right Chain: Full-Rip vs. Standard
The type of chain you use can significantly impact milling performance.
- Full-Rip Chain: This type of chain is specifically designed for milling. It has a unique tooth geometry that cuts parallel to the wood grain, producing smooth, consistent cuts.
- Standard Chain: While you can use a standard chain for milling, it’s not ideal. It will cut slower and produce a rougher surface.
Data Point: Using a full-rip chain can increase milling speed by up to 30% compared to a standard chain.
Milling Techniques: Patience and Precision
- Sharp Chain: A dull chain is your enemy. Sharpen the chain frequently, ideally after every few cuts.
- Consistent Pressure: Apply even pressure throughout the cut. Avoid forcing the saw, as this can lead to stalling and kickback.
- Proper Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to keep the chain lubricated. Consider using a separate oiler to ensure adequate lubrication for a long bar.
- Depth of Cut: Don’t try to take too deep of a cut. A shallower cut will reduce strain on the saw and produce a smoother surface.
- Wedges: Use wedges to prevent the bar from pinching in the cut.
- Take Breaks: Milling with a long bar is physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
My Personal Hack: The Auxiliary Oiler
One of the best investments I made for milling was an auxiliary oiler. The stock oiler on the G888, while adequate for felling, just couldn’t keep up with the demands of a 36-inch bar during milling. The auxiliary oiler ensures a constant supply of oil to the bar and chain, reducing friction and extending their lifespan. I picked one up online for about $50, and it’s been worth every penny.
Safety First: Essential Gear and Precautions
Milling with a chainsaw, especially with a long bar, is inherently dangerous. Prioritize safety above all else.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): The Bare Minimum
- Helmet with Face Shield and Ear Protection: Protects your head, face, and hearing.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental contact with the chain.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.
- Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Beyond the Basics: Advanced Safety Measures
- First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of accidents.
- Communication Device: Carry a cell phone or two-way radio to call for help in case of an emergency.
- Spotter: Having a spotter can be invaluable, especially when milling large logs. They can help you monitor the cut, watch for hazards, and provide assistance if needed.
- Kickback Awareness: Understand the causes of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
- Safe Work Zone: Clear the area around the log of any obstacles and ensure you have a clear escape route.
The One Time I Almost…
I was milling a large oak log, and I got complacent. I wasn’t paying close enough attention, and the bar started to pinch. I tried to force the saw, and it kicked back violently. Luckily, I was wearing proper PPE, and the chaps saved me from a serious injury. That incident taught me a valuable lesson: never let your guard down, even for a moment.
The Elephant in the Room: Cost Analysis
Now, let’s get down to brass tacks. How much will it really cost to mill with a Farmertec G888 and a 7-foot bar?
Initial Investment: Saw, Bar, and Chain
- Farmertec G888: $600 – $800 (depending on the vendor and any included accessories)
- 7-Foot Bar: $200 – $400 (high-quality bars can be expensive)
- Full-Rip Chain: $100 – $200 (chains for long bars are pricey)
Total Initial Investment: $900 – $1400
Essential Accessories: Making Life Easier (and Safer)
- Chainsaw Mill Attachment: $150 – $500 (depending on the size and features)
- Auxiliary Oiler: $50 – $100
- Sharpening Tools: $50 – $100 (chain grinder, files, etc.)
- Wedges: $20 – $50
- Cant Hook or Log Peavey: $50 – $100 (for moving and positioning logs)
Total Accessory Cost: $320 – $850
Ongoing Expenses: Keeping the Saw Running
- Bar and Chain Oil: $20 – $40 per gallon (depending on the brand and quality)
- Fuel: $3 – $5 per gallon (depending on the gas prices and fuel mixture)
- Chain Sharpening: $10 – $20 per sharpening (if you don’t do it yourself)
- Parts and Maintenance: $50 – $200 per year (spark plugs, air filters, etc.)
- Chain Replacement: $100 – $200 (chains wear out quickly when milling)
- Bar Replacement: $200 – $400 (bars can bend or break under heavy use)
Estimated Annual Operating Cost: $480 – $1040 (This can vary significantly depending on how often you mill.)
The Hidden Costs: Don’t Get Caught Off Guard
- Time: Milling is time-consuming. Factor in the time it takes to fell the tree, buck it into logs, transport the logs to the milling site, set up the mill, and mill the lumber.
- Labor: If you’re not doing all the work yourself, you’ll need to pay for labor.
- Transportation: Transporting logs and lumber can be expensive, especially if you need to rent a truck or trailer.
- Storage: You’ll need a place to store the lumber while it dries.
- Waste: There will be some waste material (sawdust, slabs, etc.).
- Permits and Fees: Depending on your location, you may need permits to fell trees or mill lumber.
Case Study: My First Milling Project
I decided to mill some oak logs that I had salvaged from a storm. Here’s a breakdown of my costs:
- Equipment:
- Farmertec G888 (already owned): $0 (I already had it for other projects)
- 36-inch Bar and Chain (already owned): $0
- Chainsaw Mill Attachment: $200
- Auxiliary Oiler: $50
- Sharpening Tools (already owned): $0
- Wedges: $30
- Cant Hook: $75
- Operating Costs:
- Bar and Chain Oil: $40
- Fuel: $20
- Chain Sharpening (DIY): $0
- Minor Parts (spark plug): $10
- Hidden Costs:
- Time: Approximately 40 hours
- Transportation: $50 (gas for my truck)
- Storage: $0 (I had space in my barn)
Total Cost: $475 + the value of my time.
I milled enough lumber to build a small shed. While I saved money on lumber costs, the project took a significant amount of time and effort.
Data-Backed Insights: Fuelwood Market Rates and Timber Prices
To get a better grasp on the potential cost savings, let’s look at some industry benchmarks:
- Average Price per Cord of Firewood: $200 – $400 (depending on the location and wood species)
- Average Price per Board Foot of Oak Lumber: $3 – $7 (depending on the grade and thickness)
- Timber Prices: Vary widely depending on the species, quality, and location. Contact your local forestry agency or timber buyer for current prices.
By milling my own lumber, I saved approximately $1000 on lumber costs for my shed project. However, I also spent 40 hours of my time, which has an opportunity cost.
Cost Optimization: Saving Money Without Sacrificing Quality
Here are some practical tips for reducing your milling costs:
- Buy Used Equipment: You can often find used chainsaw mills and other equipment at a fraction of the cost of new equipment.
- Sharpen Your Own Chains: Learning to sharpen your own chains will save you money on sharpening costs.
- Source Logs Locally: Avoid transporting logs long distances. Source logs from your own property or from local landowners.
- Dry Lumber Efficiently: Proper drying techniques will prevent warping and cracking, reducing waste.
- Plan Your Projects Carefully: Accurate measurements and careful planning will minimize waste and reduce the amount of lumber you need to mill.
- Consider Alternative Milling Methods: If you only need a small amount of lumber, consider using a hand saw or a portable sawmill.
A Trick I Learned the Hard Way: Sealing the Ends
I learned the hard way that sealing the ends of freshly sawn lumber is crucial for preventing end-checking (cracking). I lost a significant amount of lumber to end-checking on my first milling project. Now, I always apply a sealant (like Anchorseal) to the ends of the boards as soon as they’re sawn. This simple step can save you a lot of money in the long run.
Actionable Takeaways and Next Steps
So, can you mill with a Farmertec G888 and a 7-foot bar? The answer is a qualified “maybe.” It’s possible, but it requires careful planning, proper tuning, and a strong commitment to safety.
Here are some actionable takeaways:
- Assess Your Needs: Determine the size and type of logs you plan to mill. A shorter bar might be a more practical and safer option.
- Tune Your Saw: Ensure your G888 is properly tuned and maintained.
- Invest in Safety Gear: Prioritize safety above all else.
- Calculate Your Costs: Carefully estimate the costs of equipment, accessories, and operating expenses.
- Consider the Hidden Costs: Factor in the time, labor, and transportation costs.
- Explore Alternatives: Consider renting a sawmill or hiring a professional miller.
Next Steps:
- Research: Gather more information about chainsaw milling techniques and safety practices.
- Consult Experts: Talk to experienced millers or small engine mechanics.
- Start Small: Begin with a smaller bar and work your way up as you gain experience.
- Practice, Practice, Practice: Milling is a skill that takes time to develop.
Final Thoughts
Milling your own lumber can be a rewarding experience, but it’s not for the faint of heart. It requires a significant investment of time, money, and effort. By carefully planning your projects, optimizing your costs, and prioritizing safety, you can turn your dream of milling your own lumber into a reality. Just remember, sometimes the best way to tackle a big tree is with a smaller saw and a whole lot of patience. And, of course, always wear your chaps!
