Farm Boss Bar Guide: Best Chains & Bars for MS290 (Pro Tips)

Want to unlock the full potential of your Stihl MS290 Farm Boss and transform it into a wood-cutting powerhouse? Choosing the right bar and chain is the secret weapon. This guide isn’t just about specs; it’s about my years of experience, the lessons I’ve learned in the field, and the hard-won knowledge that separates a good cut from a great one. Let’s dive in!

Farm Boss Bar Guide: Best Chains & Bars for MS290 (Pro Tips)

The Stihl MS290 Farm Boss is a workhorse. It’s the chainsaw many of us started with, and some of us still rely on for everything from felling small trees to bucking firewood. But a great chainsaw is only as good as its bar and chain. Matching the right bar and chain to the MS290, and to the type of wood you’re cutting, is crucial for safety, efficiency, and the longevity of your saw.

Why Bar and Chain Selection Matters for Your MS290

Beyond just fitting the saw, the bar and chain you choose directly impact:

• Cutting Speed and Efficiency: A properly matched chain will slice through wood with less resistance, saving you time and fuel.
• Safety: The wrong combination can lead to kickback, chain breakage, and other dangerous situations.
• Saw Performance and Lifespan: Overworking your saw with an inappropriate bar and chain can damage the engine and other components.
• Type of Wood: Different wood types (hardwood, softwood, frozen) require different chain types for optimal performance.

I remember one time, early in my career, I was trying to fell a large oak with a chain that was clearly meant for softwood. The saw was bogging down, the chain was dulling quickly, and it felt like I was fighting the tree every step of the way. It was a frustrating, inefficient, and ultimately unsafe experience. That’s when I truly understood the importance of matching the right chain to the job.

Understanding Key Terms and Concepts

Before we get into specific recommendations, let’s define some essential terms:

• Bar Length: The length of the guide bar, measured from the tip to where it enters the chainsaw body. This determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut.
• Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″.
• Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links (the part of the chain that sits in the bar groove). Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″.
• Drive Links: The number of links that fit into the groove of the guide bar.
• Full Chisel Chain: Aggressive cutting chain with square-cornered teeth, best for clean wood.
• Semi-Chisel Chain: More forgiving chain with rounded teeth, better for dirty or frozen wood.
• Low-Kickback Chain: Designed to reduce the risk of kickback, often with bumper drive links or other safety features.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce moisture content.

MS290 Bar Length Options

The Stihl MS290 can handle a range of bar lengths, typically from 16″ to 20″. The best length for you depends on the size of the trees you typically cut.

• 16″ Bar: Ideal for smaller trees, limbing, and firewood cutting. Offers better maneuverability.
• 18″ Bar: A good all-around choice for medium-sized trees and general use.
• 20″ Bar: Best for larger trees, but requires more power and skill.

I personally prefer the 18″ bar for my MS290. It provides a good balance of reach and maneuverability, and it’s suitable for most of the tasks I encounter.

Recommended Chains for the Stihl MS290

The MS290 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain with a .063″ gauge. Here are some of my favorite chain options, along with their pros and cons:

• Stihl Rapid Micro (RM) or Rapid Micro Comfort (RMC) .325″ Pitch: This is a good all-around chain for general use. It’s a semi-chisel chain, which means it’s more forgiving of dirty or frozen wood. The RMC version has a slightly reduced kickback tendency. I’ve found these chains to be reliable and hold an edge reasonably well, especially when cutting seasoned hardwoods like oak and maple. Expect to sharpen every few tanks of gas when working with these denser woods.
• Stihl Rapid Super (RS) .325″ Pitch: This is a full chisel chain, designed for faster cutting in clean wood. It’s more aggressive than the RM chain, but it’s also more prone to dulling if you hit dirt or debris. This is my go-to chain when I’m felling trees in a clean environment or bucking logs that have been properly cleaned. The speed difference is noticeable, especially in softer woods like pine and fir. However, be prepared to sharpen more frequently.
• Oregon 20BPX ControlCut .325″ Pitch: This is a low-kickback chain that’s a good choice for beginners or anyone concerned about safety. It’s not as fast as the RS chain, but it’s more forgiving and easier to control. I often recommend this chain to new chainsaw users or those who are working in areas where kickback is a concern, such as in dense brush or around obstacles.
• Oregon 20LPX .325″ Pitch: This is a professional-grade chain that’s known for its durability and performance. It’s a good choice for demanding jobs and frequent use. I’ve used this chain extensively in commercial logging operations and have been consistently impressed with its ability to hold an edge and withstand the rigors of daily use. It’s a bit more expensive than the other options, but the extra cost is worth it if you’re a serious user.

Chain Selection Table:

Choosing the Right Bar for Your Needs

While the MS290 is compatible with various bar lengths, selecting the right one involves more than just picking a number. Here’s a breakdown of factors I consider:

• Typical Tree Diameter: If you consistently fell trees with a diameter close to the bar length, opt for a longer bar. It’s safer and more efficient than trying to “notch” through a tree that’s too big.
• Maneuverability: Shorter bars are easier to maneuver in tight spaces, making them ideal for limbing and pruning.
• Saw Power: While the MS290 is a capable saw, it can be strained by a longer bar, especially when cutting hardwoods.
• Bar Type: There are different types of bars, including laminated, solid, and sprocket-nose bars. Laminated bars are the most common and are suitable for general use. Solid bars are more durable and are used in heavy-duty applications. Sprocket-nose bars have a roller bearing at the tip, which reduces friction and increases cutting speed.

Bar Types:

• Laminated Bars: These are the most common type of bar. They are made of multiple layers of steel that are bonded together. Laminated bars are relatively lightweight and affordable, making them a good choice for general use.
• Solid Bars: Solid bars are made of a single piece of steel. They are more durable than laminated bars and are used in heavy-duty applications, such as commercial logging.
• Sprocket-Nose Bars: Sprocket-nose bars have a roller bearing at the tip. This reduces friction and increases cutting speed. Sprocket-nose bars are a good choice for felling large trees.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Your Bar and Chain

Replacing your bar and chain is a simple process, but it’s important to do it correctly to ensure safety and proper operation.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Wrench or Scrench (combination wrench and screwdriver)
• New bar and chain
• Gloves

Steps:

1. Safety First: Engage the chain brake and turn off the chainsaw. Remove the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starting.
2. Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use the wrench or scrench to loosen the bar nuts that hold the side cover in place. Don’t remove them completely yet.
3. Remove the Side Cover: Carefully remove the side cover. You may need to wiggle it a bit to get it past the bar studs.
4. Remove the Old Bar and Chain: Lift the old bar and chain off the saw. Be careful, as the chain may be sharp.
5. Inspect the Bar: Check the bar for wear, damage, or burrs. If the bar is worn or damaged, replace it.
6. Install the New Bar: Place the new bar onto the bar studs, making sure the chain tensioner pin aligns with the hole in the bar.
7. Install the New Chain: Place the new chain around the sprocket and into the groove of the bar. Make sure the cutting edges of the chain are facing the correct direction (they should point forward on the top of the bar).
8. Reinstall the Side Cover: Place the side cover back onto the saw, making sure the chain tensioner pin is properly engaged.
9. Tighten the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
10. Adjust the Chain Tension: Use the chain tensioner screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug against the bar, but you should still be able to pull it around the bar by hand. A good rule of thumb is to be able to pull the chain out about 1/8″ to 1/4″ from the bar.
11. Final Tighten: Once the chain tension is correct, fully tighten the bar nuts.
12. Check Chain Movement: Disengage the chain brake and manually rotate the chain around the bar to ensure it moves freely. Re-adjust tension if necessary.
13. Reattach Spark Plug Wire: Reconnect the spark plug wire.

I always double-check the chain tension after the first few cuts, as the chain will stretch slightly as it breaks in.

Pro Tips for Chain and Bar Maintenance

Proper maintenance is essential for extending the life of your bar and chain and ensuring safe operation.

• Sharpen Your Chain Regularly: A sharp chain is a safe chain. Dull chains require more force, which can lead to kickback and other dangerous situations. I recommend sharpening your chain every few tanks of gas, or whenever you notice it’s not cutting as efficiently.
• Use the Correct File Size: Use a file that’s specifically designed for your chain’s pitch. Using the wrong size file can damage the cutting teeth. For a .325″ pitch chain, a 5/32″ (4.0mm) file is typically used.
• Maintain the Correct Filing Angle: The correct filing angle is typically marked on the chain. Maintaining this angle is crucial for ensuring the chain cuts efficiently.
• Clean Your Bar Regularly: Sawdust and debris can build up in the bar groove, which can reduce cutting efficiency and cause premature wear. Clean the bar groove regularly with a screwdriver or bar groove cleaner.
• Oil Your Chain Regularly: Proper lubrication is essential for preventing premature wear and damage to the chain and bar. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil and check the oil level frequently. I prefer using a synthetic bar and chain oil, as it provides better lubrication and reduces friction.
• Flip Your Bar Regularly: Flipping the bar distributes wear evenly and extends its life.
• Store Your Chainsaw Properly: When not in use, store your chainsaw in a dry place. This will prevent rust and corrosion.
• Check Sprocket Condition: Inspect the sprocket regularly for wear. A worn sprocket can damage the chain.

Case Study: Optimizing Chain Selection for Firewood Processing

I once worked with a small firewood business that was struggling to keep up with demand. They were using a mix of different chains on their MS290s, and their productivity was suffering.

After analyzing their operation, I recommended that they standardize on the Oregon 20LPX chain for their primary cutting tasks. This chain was more durable and held an edge longer than the chains they were currently using, which meant less downtime for sharpening.

I also recommended that they invest in a chain grinder to sharpen their chains more efficiently. This allowed them to quickly sharpen multiple chains at once, which further reduced downtime.

As a result of these changes, the firewood business was able to increase its productivity by 25% and significantly reduce its operating costs.

Safety Considerations

Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including:

• Safety Glasses or Face Shield: To protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud and can cause hearing damage over time.
• Gloves: To protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
• Chainsaw Chaps: To protect your legs from accidental cuts.
• Steel-Toed Boots: To protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
• Helmet: To protect your head from falling branches.

Always be aware of your surroundings and never operate a chainsaw when you are tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Strategic Insights for Efficient Wood Processing

Beyond just selecting the right bar and chain, there are other strategic considerations that can improve your wood processing efficiency:

• Proper Felling Techniques: Felling trees safely and efficiently requires proper planning and technique. Learn how to assess the tree, plan your cuts, and use wedges to control the direction of the fall.
• Bucking Techniques: Bucking logs into firewood requires careful attention to safety and efficiency. Learn how to buck logs safely and avoid pinching the saw.
• Wood Splitting Methods: Splitting firewood can be physically demanding. Consider using a hydraulic log splitter to make the job easier and more efficient. I’ve found that a good hydraulic splitter can increase my firewood production by as much as 50%.
• Wood Drying Methods: Proper wood drying is essential for producing high-quality firewood. Learn how to stack firewood properly to promote air circulation and reduce drying time. The ideal moisture content for firewood is typically between 15% and 20%.

Cost Analysis of Different Bar and Chain Options

The cost of bars and chains can vary depending on the brand, type, and quality. Here’s a rough estimate of the cost of the options discussed above:

• Stihl Rapid Micro (RM/RMC) .325″ Pitch: \$30 – \$40
• Stihl Rapid Super (RS) .325″ Pitch: \$35 – \$45
• Oregon 20BPX ControlCut .325″ Pitch: \$25 – \$35
• Oregon 20LPX .325″ Pitch: \$40 – \$50
• 18″ Laminated Bar: \$40 – \$60
• 18″ Solid Bar: \$80 – \$120

Keep in mind that these are just estimates, and the actual cost may vary depending on the retailer and location.

Drying Times for Firewood

The drying time for firewood depends on several factors, including the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Here’s a general guideline:

• Softwoods (Pine, Fir): 6-12 months
• Hardwoods (Oak, Maple): 12-24 months

Proper stacking is crucial for reducing drying time. Stack the firewood in a single row, with gaps between the logs to promote air circulation. Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.

Skill Levels Required for Different Tasks

The skill level required for different wood processing tasks varies depending on the complexity of the task and the tools used. Here’s a general guideline:

• Changing a Bar and Chain: Beginner
• Sharpening a Chain: Intermediate
• Felling a Small Tree: Intermediate
• Felling a Large Tree: Advanced
• Bucking Firewood: Beginner
• Splitting Firewood (with a hydraulic splitter): Beginner
• Splitting Firewood (by hand): Intermediate

Next Steps: Putting Your Knowledge into Action

Now that you have a better understanding of bar and chain selection for your Stihl MS290, it’s time to put your knowledge into action.

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine the type of wood you typically cut, the size of the trees you fell, and your skill level.
2. Choose the Right Bar and Chain: Based on your assessment, select the appropriate bar length and chain type.
3. Replace Your Bar and Chain: Follow the step-by-step guide to replace your bar and chain.
4. Maintain Your Bar and Chain: Sharpen your chain regularly, clean your bar, and oil your chain.
5. Practice Safe Operation: Always wear appropriate safety gear and follow safe operating procedures.

By following these steps, you can unlock the full potential of your Stihl MS290 and enjoy years of efficient and safe wood processing.

Addressing Challenges Faced by Global DIYers and Small-Scale Logging Businesses

I understand that DIYers and small-scale logging businesses around the world face unique challenges. Access to quality tools and materials may be limited, and budgets may be tight. Here are some tips for overcoming these challenges:

• Source Locally: Look for local suppliers of bars and chains. They may be able to offer better prices and more personalized service.
• Consider Used Equipment: Used chainsaws and log splitters can be a cost-effective option for those on a tight budget. Just be sure to inspect the equipment carefully before you buy it.
• Learn to Sharpen Your Own Chains: Sharpening your own chains can save you money and ensure that your chains are always sharp.
• Take Advantage of Online Resources: There are many online resources available to help you learn about wood processing and chainsaw operation.
• Network with Other Woodworkers: Connect with other woodworkers in your area to share tips and advice.

Final Thoughts: The Rewards of Knowledge

Choosing the right bar and chain for your Stihl MS290 is not just about getting the job done; it’s about doing it safely, efficiently, and with confidence. The knowledge you’ve gained in this guide will empower you to make informed decisions, optimize your wood processing operations, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with wood. Now, go out there and make some sawdust!

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