Echo CS-680 Chainsaw Review (5 Pro Tips For Firewood Cutting)

Let’s future-proof your firewood game. In a world where energy prices are as unpredictable as the weather, having a reliable source of heat isn’t just a comfort; it’s a strategic advantage. And if that source involves splitting logs and the satisfying roar of a chainsaw, well, that’s just icing on the cake. You’re here because you’re considering the Echo CS-680 chainsaw for your firewood cutting needs, and you want to know if it’s the right tool for the job. I’m here to tell you, based on my years of experience felling trees and stacking cords, that it very well might be. But more than just a review, I want to give you five pro tips that will elevate your firewood cutting from a chore to a craft. So, let’s dive in!

Echo CS-680 Chainsaw Review: 5 Pro Tips for Firewood Cutting

The Echo CS-680 is a beast of a machine. It’s not your grandpa’s lightweight limbing saw. This chainsaw is built for serious work, and understanding its capabilities is the first step to maximizing its potential for firewood cutting.

The Powerhouse: A Look at the Echo CS-680

The Echo CS-680 is designed for demanding tasks, and that translates directly into its performance when processing firewood.

Engine: Typically boasts a 66.7 cc two-stroke engine. This displacement provides ample power to tackle hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory, which are common choices for firewood due to their high BTU (British Thermal Unit) content.
Bar Length: Usually paired with a 20-inch or 24-inch bar. This length is ideal for felling medium-sized trees and bucking logs into manageable firewood lengths.
Weight: Around 16 pounds (without fuel and bar oil). While not the lightest saw on the market, the CS-680’s power-to-weight ratio is excellent, allowing for extended use without excessive fatigue, especially if you’re used to handling larger saws.
Features: Includes features like a decompression valve for easier starting, a heavy-duty air filter for prolonged engine life, and an automatic chain oiler to keep the chain properly lubricated.

My Experience: I’ve used similar saws in the past for clearing land and prepping firewood for harsh winters. I remember one particularly brutal winter where the only thing that kept my family warm was a wood stove fueled by oak I’d cut with a saw just like this. The consistent power and reliability of these types of saws are invaluable when you’re counting on them for your family’s comfort and safety.

Pro Tip #1: Sharpening is Your Superpower

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It’s also inefficient. A sharp chain bites into the wood, creating clean, consistent chips. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears at the wood, producing sawdust and requiring significantly more effort.

The Science of Sharpness: The cutting teeth on a chainsaw chain are designed with a specific angle and depth. When these angles are maintained, the tooth acts like a tiny plane, slicing through the wood fibers. When the edge becomes rounded or damaged, it loses its ability to slice and instead scrapes, generating heat and friction.

How to Sharpen:

Tools: Invest in a good quality chainsaw sharpening kit that includes a round file (typically 5/32″ for the CS-680, but check your chain specifications), a flat file, and a depth gauge tool.
Technique: Secure the chainsaw bar in a vise. File each tooth consistently, maintaining the original angle. Use light, even strokes, filing from the inside of the tooth outwards. Pay attention to the depth gauges and file them down as needed.
Frequency: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel, or more often if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
Alternative: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your own chain, take it to a professional.

Data Point: A study by Oregon Products found that a properly sharpened chainsaw can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20% and reduce fuel consumption by 10%.

My Experience: I’ve learned the hard way the importance of a sharp chain. I once tried to cut through a knotty oak log with a dull chain, and it nearly kicked back on me. It was a wake-up call. Now, I sharpen my chain religiously, and it makes all the difference.

Pro Tip #2: Wood Selection: Know Your BTU’s

Not all firewood is created equal. The type of wood you choose will significantly impact the amount of heat it produces and how long it burns.

BTU Explained: BTU stands for British Thermal Unit, which is a measure of the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. The higher the BTU rating of a wood species, the more heat it will generate when burned.

Top Firewood Choices (with approximate BTU per cord):

Oak (Red/White): 24-30 million BTU/cord. A classic choice for firewood due to its high density and long burn time.
Hickory: 25-28 million BTU/cord. Similar to oak in terms of heat output and burn time.
Maple (Sugar/Red): 20-24 million BTU/cord. Burns hot and clean.
Ash: 20-24 million BTU/cord. Easy to split and burns well, but can be susceptible to pests.
Beech: 20-24 million BTU/cord. Similar to maple and ash.
Birch (Yellow/White): 15-20 million BTU/cord. Burns quickly and produces a pleasant aroma. Good for kindling.
Pine: 12-18 million BTU/cord. Burns hot and fast, but produces more smoke and creosote. Best used for shoulder season fires or kindling.

Beyond BTU’s: Consider other factors like ease of splitting, availability, and seasoning time.

Seasoning Time: Freshly cut (green) wood contains a high moisture content (often 50% or more). This moisture needs to be reduced to around 20% before the wood will burn efficiently. Seasoning involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area for at least six months, preferably a year or more.

Data Point: Burning unseasoned wood can reduce heat output by as much as 50% and significantly increase creosote buildup in your chimney, increasing the risk of a chimney fire.

My Experience: I once made the mistake of burning green oak in my wood stove. It was a smoky, inefficient mess. I learned my lesson the hard way and now always season my wood for at least a year before burning it. I even use a moisture meter to ensure it’s dry enough.

Pro Tip #3: Mastering the Bucking Cut: Techniques for Efficiency and Safety

Bucking is the process of cutting felled trees into manageable lengths for firewood. This is where the Echo CS-680 really shines, but it’s also where proper technique and safety are paramount.

The Basics:

Stance: Maintain a wide, stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Keep your weight balanced and avoid overreaching.
Grip: Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Your thumbs should be wrapped around the handles.
Cutting Height: Whenever possible, elevate the log off the ground using sawbucks or other supports. This reduces the risk of pinching the chain and makes cutting easier.
Cutting Sequence: Plan your cuts carefully to avoid pinching or binding the saw.

Common Bucking Techniques:

Overbucking: Cutting from the top down. Use this technique when the log is supported on both ends.
Underbucking: Cutting from the bottom up. Use this technique when the log is supported in the middle. Be careful of kickback.
Combination Cut: A combination of overbucking and underbucking. Start with an overbucking cut about one-third of the way through the log, then finish with an underbucking cut.

Preventing Pinching:

Kerf Cuts: Make small relief cuts on the opposite side of the log to relieve tension.
Wedges: Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent the log from pinching the chain.

Safety First:

Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback, which occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar comes into contact with an object and forces the saw back towards the operator. Always keep a firm grip on the saw and avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots.

Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), chainsaw-related injuries account for over 30,000 emergency room visits each year in the United States. Proper training and the use of PPE can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

My Experience: I once witnessed a fellow firewood cutter experience a severe kickback. Thankfully, he was wearing proper PPE, which likely saved him from serious injury. It was a stark reminder of the importance of safety when operating a chainsaw. I now treat every cut with the utmost respect and never compromise on safety.

Pro Tip #4: Splitting Strategies: From Axes to Splitters

Once you’ve bucked your logs into firewood lengths, the next step is splitting them. This can be done manually with an axe or maul, or with a powered log splitter.

Manual Splitting:

Axe vs. Maul: An axe is designed for chopping wood, while a maul is designed for splitting. A maul is heavier and has a wider head than an axe, making it more effective for splitting large rounds.
Technique: Place the round on a solid surface, such as a chopping block. Position your feet shoulder-width apart and grip the axe or maul firmly with both hands. Raise the axe or maul overhead and swing down with force, aiming for the center of the round.
Wedging: If the round is particularly tough to split, use wedges to help break it apart.

Powered Log Splitters:

Types: Log splitters come in a variety of types, including hydraulic splitters, electric splitters, and gas-powered splitters.
Tonnage: The tonnage rating of a log splitter indicates the amount of force it can exert. For splitting most firewood, a 20-ton to 30-ton splitter is sufficient.
Safety: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when operating a log splitter. Wear appropriate PPE, including safety glasses and gloves.

Choosing the Right Method:

Manual Splitting: Good for smaller rounds and for those who want a good workout. Requires more physical effort and can be time-consuming.
Powered Log Splitter: Good for larger rounds and for those who want to split a lot of wood quickly. Requires less physical effort but can be more expensive.

Data Point: A study by the University of Minnesota Extension found that using a powered log splitter can reduce the time required to split a cord of wood by up to 75% compared to manual splitting.

My Experience: I started out splitting wood with an axe, and it was a back-breaking task. I eventually invested in a log splitter, and it was a game-changer. Now, I can split a cord of wood in a fraction of the time, and my back thanks me for it. However, I still enjoy the occasional manual splitting session for the exercise and the satisfaction of splitting a tough round with my own strength.

Pro Tip #5: Stacking and Storage: The Art of the Cord

Proper stacking and storage are essential for seasoning firewood and keeping it dry.

The Cord: A cord of wood is a standard measurement of firewood, defined as a stack that is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long, totaling 128 cubic feet.

Stacking Techniques:

Elevate the Wood: Stack the wood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground and improve air circulation.
Crisscross the Ends: Crisscrossing the ends of the stack helps to stabilize it and prevent it from collapsing.
Leave Space for Air Circulation: Leave space between the rows of wood to allow for air circulation.
Top Cover: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect the wood from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for ventilation.

Storage Location:

Sun and Wind: Choose a location that is exposed to sun and wind to promote drying.
Away from Buildings: Stack the wood away from buildings to reduce the risk of pests and fire.
Accessibility: Choose a location that is easily accessible, especially during the winter months.

Seasoning Time:

Hardwoods: Hardwoods like oak and hickory typically require at least a year of seasoning.
Softwoods: Softwoods like pine can be seasoned in as little as six months.

Data Point: A study by the USDA Forest Service found that properly seasoned firewood can burn up to 25% more efficiently than unseasoned firewood.

My Experience: I’ve experimented with different stacking methods over the years, and I’ve found that the crisscross method works best for me. It creates a stable stack that allows for good air circulation. I also make sure to cover the top of the stack with a tarp to keep the wood dry. I once had a stack of wood get soaked by a heavy rainstorm, and it took months for it to dry out. Now, I’m much more careful about protecting my firewood from the elements.

Conclusion: The Echo CS-680 and the Art of Firewood

The Echo CS-680 is a capable chainsaw that can handle the demands of firewood cutting. But like any tool, its effectiveness depends on the operator’s skill and knowledge. By following these five pro tips, you can maximize the performance of your chainsaw, improve your efficiency, and ensure your safety.

Remember, firewood cutting is more than just a chore; it’s a craft. It’s about understanding the wood, mastering the techniques, and respecting the power of the tools. It’s about providing warmth and comfort for yourself and your family. And it’s about connecting with nature and appreciating the satisfaction of a job well done.

So, go out there, fire up your Echo CS-680, and start cutting. But do it safely, do it efficiently, and do it with pride. Your woodpile will thank you for it, and so will your family. And who knows, maybe you’ll even find a little bit of joy in the process. I know I do.

Echo CS-680 Chainsaw Review (5 Pro Tips for Firewood Cutting)