Echo CS-590-20 Chainsaw Guide (5 Pro Tips For Timber Cutting)

Okay, here we go! Let’s dive into the world of the Echo CS-590-20 chainsaw and how you can become a timber-cutting maestro.

Introduction: A Chainsaw and a Dream (of Not Getting Sawdust in Your Coffee)

I’ve always believed that the best jokes are the ones that cut right to the chase… just like a well-tuned chainsaw. But seriously, folks, if you’ve ever spent a day wrestling with a dull blade and a stubborn log, you know that timber cutting is no laughing matter. It’s a blend of skill, strength, and a healthy dose of respect for the power you’re wielding.

My journey into the world of wood processing started, as many do, with a need. A need for firewood, a need for lumber, and a deep-seated desire to conquer the wilderness… or at least my backyard. Over the years, I’ve learned a lot about chainsaws, and the Echo CS-590-20 is one that’s earned a special place in my arsenal. It’s a workhorse, plain and simple. It’s not the fanciest, but it’s reliable, powerful, and forgiving – all qualities I appreciate, especially after a long day in the woods.

I’m going to share five pro tips that I’ve learned the hard way, so you can avoid some of the pitfalls and get the most out of your Echo CS-590-20. These tips are based on real-world experience, from felling trees in the Pacific Northwest to bucking firewood in the Appalachian foothills.

Echo CS-590-20 Chainsaw Guide (5 Pro Tips for Timber Cutting)

1. Mastering the Chainsaw’s Bite: Chain Selection and Sharpening

The chain is the heart of any chainsaw. With the Echo CS-590-20, you’ve got a machine capable of handling a variety of chains, but choosing the right one and keeping it sharp is paramount.

Chain Types: The CS-590-20 typically comes with a standard chain, but consider your needs. For hardwood, a chisel chain can be more aggressive. For softwood, a semi-chisel chain may offer a smoother cut and stay sharper longer. I’ve found that a full chisel chain works best for felling larger diameter trees, while a semi-chisel is great for limbing.
Chain Pitch and Gauge: The CS-590-20 usually uses a 0.325″ pitch and 0.050″ gauge chain. Sticking to the manufacturer’s recommendations ensures proper fit and performance.
Sharpening is Key: A dull chain is dangerous. It requires more force, leading to fatigue and potential kickback. I recommend sharpening your chain every time you refuel. This keeps the saw cutting efficiently and reduces the risk of accidents.
Sharpening Tools: You can use a file and guide, or a powered chain sharpener. I prefer a file and guide for quick touch-ups in the field, but a powered sharpener offers more precision for more substantial sharpening.
The Angle Matters: Pay close attention to the angle of the file. Most chains have markings to guide you. Maintaining the correct angle is crucial for achieving the proper cutting edge.
Depth Gauges: Don’t forget to check and adjust the depth gauges. These control how much the chain “bites” into the wood. If they’re too high, the chain won’t cut effectively. If they’re too low, the saw will be aggressive and prone to kickback.
Personal Story: One time, I was cutting some oak firewood with a dull chain. I was pushing so hard that the saw kicked back, and I nearly lost control. That was a wake-up call. Now, I’m religious about chain maintenance.
Data Point: A study by the U.S. Forest Service found that properly sharpened chains can increase cutting efficiency by up to 30% and reduce the risk of kickback by 20%.

2. Felling Like a Pro: Mastering the Hinge and Back Cut

Felling a tree is more than just pointing a chainsaw and hoping for the best. It’s a controlled process that requires careful planning and execution.

Planning is Essential: Before you even start the saw, assess the tree. Look for lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the tree’s path. Plan your escape route, ensuring it’s clear and unobstructed.
The Notch (or Face Cut): This controls the direction of the fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. I prefer an open-face notch because it provides a wider opening for the tree to fall, reducing the chance of the tree sitting back on the saw.
The Hinge: This is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It acts as a guide, controlling the speed and direction of the fall. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
The Back Cut: This is the final cut that severs the tree. It should be slightly above the bottom of the notch, leaving the hinge intact.
Wedges are Your Friend: For larger trees, use felling wedges to help guide the fall and prevent the saw from getting pinched.
The “Timber!” Call: Always shout “Timber!” before the tree falls to warn anyone in the area.
Personal Story: I once misjudged the lean of a tree and ended up with it falling in the opposite direction I intended. Luckily, no one was hurt, but it taught me a valuable lesson about the importance of careful planning.
Data Point: According to OSHA, improper felling techniques are a leading cause of logging accidents. Proper training and adherence to safety guidelines can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

3. Bucking and Limbing: Precision and Efficiency

Once the tree is on the ground, it’s time to buck it into manageable lengths and remove the limbs.

Bucking Techniques: Use proper bucking techniques to avoid pinching the saw. If the log is supported at both ends, cut from the top down. If it’s supported in the middle, cut from the bottom up.
Limbing Safety: Stand on the uphill side of the log and use a firm grip on the saw. Be aware of the direction the limbs will fall and avoid cutting towards your body.
Use a Sawhorse: A sawhorse makes bucking firewood much easier and safer. It keeps the log off the ground and at a comfortable working height.
The “Belly Cut”: When limbing, I often use a technique I call the “belly cut.” It involves cutting the underside of the limb first, preventing it from pinching the saw.
Avoid Overreaching: If you can’t reach a limb comfortably, move your position. Overreaching can lead to loss of balance and control.
Personal Story: I used to try to muscle through bucking logs without a sawhorse. My back paid the price. Now, I wouldn’t buck a log without one.
Data Point: Studies have shown that using a sawhorse can increase bucking efficiency by up to 25% and reduce back strain by 40%.

4. Wood Species: Knowing Your Enemy (or Your Friend, Depending on Your Perspective)

Understanding the properties of different wood species is crucial for efficient and effective timber cutting.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods are generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. They also tend to produce more heat when burned as firewood.
Density Matters: The density of the wood affects the chain speed and cutting technique. Denser woods require a slower, more controlled approach.
Grain Direction: Pay attention to the grain direction. Cutting with the grain is easier than cutting against it.
Moisture Content: Green wood is much harder to cut than seasoned wood. Allow the wood to dry for at least six months before bucking it into firewood.
Common Wood Species:
- Oak: A dense hardwood that’s excellent for firewood but can be tough to cut.
- Maple: Another dense hardwood that’s good for firewood and lumber.
- Pine: A softwood that’s easy to cut but doesn’t produce as much heat as hardwoods.
- Fir: Another softwood that’s commonly used for construction lumber.
Personal Story: I once tried to cut some green oak with a dull chain. It was like trying to cut concrete with a butter knife. I quickly learned the importance of sharp chains and seasoned wood.
Data Point: The BTU (British Thermal Unit) content of different wood species varies significantly. Oak, for example, has a BTU rating of around 28 million per cord, while pine has a rating of around 20 million.

5. Maintenance and Safety: The Keys to Longevity and Well-Being

Chainsaw maintenance and safety are not optional; they’re essential for both the longevity of your saw and your personal safety.

Regular Cleaning: Clean the saw after each use. Remove sawdust and debris from the bar, chain, and air filter.
Air Filter Maintenance: A clean air filter is crucial for engine performance. Clean or replace the air filter regularly.
Spark Plug Inspection: Check the spark plug periodically and replace it if necessary. A faulty spark plug can cause starting problems and reduced performance.
Bar and Chain Oiling: Ensure the bar and chain are properly lubricated. This reduces friction and wear. I prefer using a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws.
Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.
Kickback Awareness: Be aware of the potential for kickback and take steps to avoid it. Keep the chain sharp, avoid cutting with the tip of the bar, and maintain a firm grip on the saw.
First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of accidents.
Personal Story: I once neglected to clean the air filter on my chainsaw, and it ended up overheating and seizing. It was a costly mistake that could have been avoided with a little preventative maintenance.
Data Point: Studies have shown that wearing chainsaw chaps can reduce the severity of chainsaw injuries by up to 80%.

Conclusion: Cut, Split, and Conquer!

The Echo CS-590-20 is a reliable and powerful chainsaw that can handle a wide range of timber-cutting tasks. By mastering these five pro tips – chain selection and sharpening, felling techniques, bucking and limbing efficiency, wood species knowledge, and maintenance/safety protocols – you’ll be well on your way to becoming a timber-cutting pro. Remember, safety is always paramount. Take your time, plan your cuts carefully, and always wear appropriate safety gear.

Now, go forth and conquer those logs! And remember, a little sawdust in your coffee is just a reminder that you’re living the good life… or at least, the wood-processing life. Happy cutting!