Echo CS 400 Chain Size Guide (7 Pro Tips For Smooth Cutting)

How to Choose the Right Chain Size for Your Echo CS-400 (Plus 7 Pro Tips for Smooth Cutting)

Let’s face it, the Echo CS-400 is a workhorse. I’ve personally used mine for everything from limbing trees after a storm to bucking firewood for the winter. But, like any chainsaw, its performance hinges on having the right chain. Too long, and you’re fighting a sluggish, dangerous saw. Too short, and you’re not getting the full potential of your machine. This guide is designed to help you nail the chain size for your Echo CS-400 and equip you with some pro tips to make every cut smooth and efficient.

Why Chain Size Matters: More Than Just Length

Choosing the correct chain isn’t just about matching a number. It’s about safety, performance, and the longevity of your chainsaw. A mismatched chain can lead to kickback, increased wear and tear on the bar and sprocket, and ultimately, a frustrating cutting experience.

Understanding the Key Chain Specifications

Before we dive into the specifics of the Echo CS-400, let’s break down the three critical specs of any chainsaw chain:

Pitch: This is the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. It’s essentially the size of the chain. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″ low profile (also sometimes called .375″), and 3/8″. The Echo CS-400 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.
Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links – the part of the chain that fits into the guide bar groove. Common gauges are .043″, .050″, .058″, and .063″. The Echo CS-400 almost always uses a .050″ gauge chain.
Drive Link Count: This is the total number of drive links on the chain. This is directly related to the bar length.

The Echo CS-400: A Popular Choice for a Reason

The Echo CS-400 is a popular chainsaw for homeowners and light-duty professionals alike. I’ve found it to be reliable, easy to start, and powerful enough for most common tasks. It’s a great balance of power and weight, making it manageable for extended use. It’s important to get the chain specifications right for this chainsaw, as an incorrect chain can quickly damage this otherwise durable machine.

Step-by-Step Guide to Finding the Right Chain for Your Echo CS-400

Okay, let’s get down to brass tacks. Here’s how to find the right chain for your Echo CS-400:

Step 1: Determine Your Bar Length

The bar length is the most obvious factor. The Echo CS-400 typically comes with a 16-inch or 18-inch bar. The bar length is usually stamped somewhere on the bar itself. Look closely near the base of the bar, where it attaches to the saw body. You should find a number indicating the length in inches.

My Experience: I once mistakenly ordered a chain for a 20-inch bar, thinking my CS-400 had been upgraded. It didn’t fit, and I learned a valuable lesson about double-checking!

Step 2: Check Your Existing Chain (If Available)

If you have the old chain, this is the easiest way to determine the correct specifications.

Look for Markings: Most chainsaw chains have the pitch and gauge stamped on the drive links. You might need a magnifying glass to see them clearly. Look for numbers like “.325 .050” on the drive links.
Count the Drive Links: If you can’t find the markings, carefully count the number of drive links. This is tedious, but accurate.

Step 3: Consult Your Echo CS-400 Owner’s Manual

Your owner’s manual is your best friend. It will list the recommended chain specifications for your specific model. This is the most reliable source of information.

Real-World Example: I always keep my owner’s manuals in a binder in my workshop. They’ve saved me countless headaches over the years.

Step 4: Use an Online Chain Selector Tool

Many chainsaw chain manufacturers (Oregon, Stihl, Husqvarna, etc.) offer online chain selector tools. You simply enter your chainsaw make and model, and the tool will provide the correct chain specifications.

Important Note: Always double-check the results from online tools against your owner’s manual or existing chain markings.

Step 5: When in Doubt, Ask a Professional

If you’re still unsure, take your chainsaw to a local chainsaw shop or hardware store with a knowledgeable staff. They can help you identify the correct chain and answer any questions you might have.

Common Chain Sizes for Echo CS-400

Based on my experience and research, here are the most common chain sizes for the Echo CS-400:

16-inch Bar: .325″ pitch, .050″ gauge, 66 drive links
18-inch Bar: .325″ pitch, .050″ gauge, 72 drive links

Remember to always verify these specs with your owner’s manual or existing chain before purchasing.

7 Pro Tips for Smooth Cutting with Your Echo CS-400

Now that you know how to choose the right chain, let’s talk about how to use it effectively. Here are seven pro tips for smooth cutting with your Echo CS-400:

Tip 1: Sharpen Your Chain Regularly

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on your chainsaw.

How Often to Sharpen: I sharpen my chains after every tank of gas or whenever I notice the saw is cutting slowly or producing fine dust instead of chips.
Sharpening Tools: You can use a chainsaw file, a chainsaw grinder, or even a specialized sharpening attachment for your chainsaw. I prefer using a chainsaw file for field sharpening and a grinder for more thorough sharpening in the shop.
Sharpening Angle: Pay close attention to the sharpening angle. Your owner’s manual will specify the correct angle for your chain. Maintaining the correct angle is crucial for optimal cutting performance.
My Sharpening Routine: I use a 5/32″ round file for my .325″ pitch chains. I make sure to file each cutter tooth evenly, maintaining the correct angle and depth. After sharpening, I lower the depth gauges (rakers) slightly with a flat file. This prevents the chain from grabbing and helps it cut more smoothly.

Tip 2: Maintain Proper Chain Tension

Proper chain tension is essential for safe and efficient cutting. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can bind and overheat.

Checking Chain Tension: To check the chain tension, lift the chain in the middle of the bar. There should be a small amount of sag, typically around 1/8 inch.
Adjusting Chain Tension: Most chainsaws have a tensioning screw located on the side of the saw, near the bar. Use a screwdriver or wrench to adjust the tension until it is correct.
Hot vs. Cold Tension: Keep in mind that the chain will expand as it heats up during use. Adjust the tension when the chain is cold, allowing for some expansion.
My Tensioning Trick: I prefer to err on the side of slightly looser tension, especially when cutting hardwoods. A slightly looser chain is less likely to bind and overheat.

Tip 3: Use the Right Cutting Technique

Using the right cutting technique can significantly improve your cutting efficiency and reduce the risk of kickback.

Avoid the Tip: The tip of the chainsaw bar is the most dangerous part. Avoid using it, as it is prone to kickback.
Use the Bottom of the Bar: Use the bottom of the bar for most cuts. This provides more control and reduces the risk of kickback.
Let the Saw Do the Work: Don’t force the saw. Let the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the chain do the work.
Boring Cuts: When felling trees, you may need to make a boring cut (plunging the tip of the bar into the wood). Be extremely careful when making boring cuts, as they are very prone to kickback. Use a slow, controlled motion and keep the tip of the bar pointed away from you.
My Felling Experience: I once had a close call when felling a tree. I was using the tip of the bar to make a boring cut, and the saw kicked back violently. Fortunately, I was able to maintain control of the saw and avoid injury. This experience taught me the importance of using the right cutting technique and being aware of the risks of kickback.

Tip 4: Lubricate Your Chain Properly

Proper chain lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chain and bar. It reduces friction, prevents overheating, and helps to flush away debris.

Use the Right Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication.
Check the Oil Level: Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. Most chainsaws have an automatic oiler that dispenses oil onto the chain as it runs.
Adjust the Oiler: Some chainsaws allow you to adjust the oiler flow rate. Increase the flow rate when cutting hardwoods or in hot weather.
My Oiling Tip: I always use a synthetic bar and chain oil. It provides superior lubrication and protection, especially in cold weather.

Tip 5: Keep Your Bar in Good Condition

The chainsaw bar is just as important as the chain. A damaged or worn bar can cause the chain to bind, overheat, and derail.

Check for Wear: Regularly inspect your bar for wear, such as burrs, grooves, and uneven surfaces.
Dress the Bar: Use a bar dressing tool to remove burrs and smooth out any imperfections.
Flip the Bar: Flip the bar periodically to distribute wear evenly.
Clean the Bar: Clean the bar regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
My Bar Maintenance: I use a flat file to dress the edges of my bar every few uses. This helps to remove burrs and keep the bar running smoothly.

Tip 6: Choose the Right Wood

The type of wood you are cutting can affect the performance of your chainsaw and chain.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood (freshly cut wood) is typically easier to cut than seasoned wood (wood that has been dried). However, green wood is also more likely to bind and pinch the chain.
Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods (such as oak and maple) are more difficult to cut than softwoods (such as pine and fir).
Knots: Knots are dense and hard, and they can be difficult to cut through.
My Wood Cutting Strategy: When cutting hardwoods, I use a slower, more controlled cutting speed. I also make sure to keep the chain sharp and well-lubricated. When cutting green wood, I use wedges to prevent the wood from binding and pinching the chain.

Tip 7: Safety First!

Chainsaws are powerful tools that can be dangerous if not used properly. Always follow these safety precautions:

Wear Proper Safety Gear: Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, long pants, and steel-toed boots.
Use a Chainsaw Helmet: A chainsaw helmet with a face shield is highly recommended, especially when felling trees.
Be Aware of Kickback: Understand the causes of kickback and how to avoid it.
Keep a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from other people when operating a chainsaw.
Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and increases the risk of losing control of the saw.
Inspect Your Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect your chainsaw for any damage or loose parts.
Read the Owner’s Manual: Read and understand your owner’s manual before operating your chainsaw.
My Safety Rule: I always take a few minutes before starting any chainsaw work to review the safety procedures in my mind. This helps me to stay focused and avoid accidents.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Chain and Cutting Techniques

Once you’ve mastered the fundamentals, you can explore more advanced techniques to further improve your cutting efficiency and safety.

Understanding Chain Types

Not all chainsaw chains are created equal. There are different types of chains designed for different purposes.

Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and efficient for cutting clean wood. However, they are more prone to dulling and kickback than other types of chains.
Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-corner cutters that are less aggressive than full chisel chains but are more durable and less prone to kickback.
Low-Profile Chains: These chains have a smaller profile and are designed for smaller chainsaws. They are less aggressive but also less prone to kickback.
My Chain Choice: I typically use a semi-chisel chain on my Echo CS-400. It provides a good balance of cutting performance and durability.

Advanced Cutting Techniques for Felling Trees

Felling trees is a complex and dangerous task that requires careful planning and execution.

Planning the Fell: Before felling a tree, carefully assess the surrounding area and identify any potential hazards, such as power lines, buildings, and roads. Determine the direction of the fall and clear a path for the tree to fall.
Making the Notch: The notch is a V-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. The notch should be cut on the side of the tree facing the desired direction of fall.
Making the Back Cut: The back cut is a horizontal cut that is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. The back cut should be made slightly higher than the bottom of the notch.
Using Wedges: Wedges are used to help direct the fall of the tree and prevent it from falling in the wrong direction.
My Felling Strategy: I always use two wedges when felling trees. One wedge is placed in the back cut, and the other is placed on the side of the tree facing the desired direction of fall.

Bucking and Splitting Firewood

Bucking and splitting firewood can be a physically demanding task, but it can also be a rewarding way to prepare for the winter.

Bucking: Bucking is the process of cutting logs into shorter lengths. When bucking firewood, it is important to cut the logs to the correct length for your fireplace or wood stove.
Splitting: Splitting is the process of splitting logs into smaller pieces. You can split logs by hand using an axe or maul, or you can use a hydraulic log splitter.
My Firewood Preparation Method: I use a combination of hand splitting and hydraulic log splitting. I use an axe to split smaller logs and a hydraulic log splitter to split larger logs. My log splitter is a 27-ton model, which is more than enough power for most of the wood I process.
Firewood Drying: After splitting, stacking firewood properly is crucial for efficient drying. I stack my firewood in rows, leaving space between the rows for air circulation. I also cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. The goal is to get the moisture content down to around 20% before burning. I use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood before burning it. Well-seasoned wood burns hotter and cleaner, producing more heat and less smoke.

Case Study: Reviving an Old Echo CS-400

I once acquired an old Echo CS-400 from a neighbor who was moving. It hadn’t been used in years and was in rough shape. The chain was dull, the bar was worn, and the engine was sputtering.

Here’s how I brought it back to life:

Thorough Cleaning: I started by thoroughly cleaning the entire chainsaw, removing all the old sawdust, dirt, and grime.
Chain Replacement: I replaced the old, dull chain with a new .325″ pitch, .050″ gauge chain with 66 drive links (for the 16-inch bar).
Bar Dressing: I dressed the bar with a bar dressing tool to remove burrs and smooth out any imperfections.
Carburetor Cleaning: I cleaned the carburetor and replaced the fuel filter.
Spark Plug Replacement: I replaced the spark plug.
Fuel System Refresh: I drained the old fuel and replaced it with fresh fuel mixed with the correct amount of two-stroke oil.
Oiler Adjustment: I adjusted the oiler flow rate to ensure proper chain lubrication.

After these repairs, the old Echo CS-400 ran like new. It was a testament to the durability of these machines and the importance of proper maintenance. This experience reinforced my belief that even neglected chainsaws can be brought back to life with a little bit of effort and know-how.

The Importance of Proper Storage

Proper storage is often overlooked, but it’s crucial for extending the life of your chainsaw.

Cleaning Before Storage: Before storing your chainsaw for an extended period, clean it thoroughly. Remove all sawdust and debris from the bar, chain, and engine.
Draining Fuel: Drain the fuel tank to prevent the fuel from going stale and damaging the carburetor.
Chain and Bar Protection: Remove the chain and bar and store them separately. Lightly oil the chain to prevent rust.
Storage Location: Store your chainsaw in a dry, protected location, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.
My Storage Practice: I store my chainsaws in a dedicated cabinet in my workshop. I always drain the fuel and oil them before storing them for the winter. I also cover them with a cloth to protect them from dust.

Key Takeaways and Next Steps

Choosing the right chain for your Echo CS-400 is essential for safe and efficient cutting. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can ensure that you have the correct chain for your chainsaw. Remember to always prioritize safety and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Here are some practical next steps you can take:

Identify Your Bar Length: Determine the bar length of your Echo CS-400.
Consult Your Owner’s Manual: Consult your owner’s manual to find the recommended chain specifications.
Inspect Your Existing Chain: If you have an old chain, inspect it for markings and count the drive links.
Purchase the Correct Chain: Purchase a new chain that matches the specifications of your Echo CS-400.
Sharpen Your Chain: Learn how to sharpen your chain properly.
Practice Safe Cutting Techniques: Practice safe cutting techniques and always wear proper safety gear.

With the right chain and the right techniques, you can get the most out of your Echo CS-400 and enjoy smooth, efficient cutting for years to come. Remember that consistent maintenance and a commitment to safety are the keys to prolonging the life of your chainsaw and ensuring a positive cutting experience. Now go out there and put these tips into practice!

Echo CS 400 Chain Size Guide (7 Pro Tips for Smooth Cutting)

Why Chain Size Matters: More Than Just Length

Understanding the Key Chain Specifications

The Echo CS-400: A Popular Choice for a Reason