Echo Backpack Blower Won't Start (Troubleshoot PB580T Stalls)

I remember the frustration like it was yesterday. The crisp autumn air, a mountain of leaves begging to be tamed, and my trusty Echo PB580T backpack blower… silent. Nothing but the faint smell of gasoline and the gnawing feeling that my Saturday was about to be consumed by engine troubleshooting. If you’re staring down the barrel of a similar situation, take a deep breath. I’ve been there, and I’m here to guide you through the diagnostic maze and hopefully get your blower roaring again.

Safety First: Before You Begin

Before you even think about touching your blower, safety is paramount.

Disconnect the spark plug: This prevents accidental starting while you’re working on the engine.
Wear gloves and eye protection: Fuel and engine components can be messy and potentially harmful.
Work in a well-ventilated area: Fumes from gasoline and other chemicals can be dangerous.
Have a fire extinguisher nearby: Just in case.

Step 1: Fuel System Inspection

The fuel system is the lifeblood of any small engine. A problem here is often the root cause of starting issues.

Checking the Fuel Tank

Fuel Level: Sounds obvious, but make sure you have enough fuel. I’ve wasted an embarrassing amount of time troubleshooting only to find the tank was bone dry.
Fuel Condition: Old or contaminated fuel is a common problem. Gasoline can degrade over time, especially if it’s mixed with ethanol. Check the fuel for cloudiness, separation, or a varnish-like smell. If it looks or smells off, drain the tank and replace it with fresh, high-quality fuel with a minimum octane rating of 89. I always recommend using fuel stabilizer, especially if you don’t use your blower frequently. A good fuel stabilizer, like STA-BIL, can keep your fuel fresh for up to 24 months.
Fuel Cap Vent: The fuel cap vent allows air into the tank, which is necessary for fuel to flow properly. A clogged vent can create a vacuum, preventing fuel from reaching the carburetor. Inspect the vent hole on the fuel cap. It’s usually a small hole. If it’s blocked, carefully clean it with a thin wire or a needle.

Fuel Lines and Filter

Visual Inspection: Check the fuel lines for cracks, kinks, or leaks. Over time, fuel lines can become brittle and crack, leading to air leaks that prevent the engine from starting. Replace any damaged fuel lines. I typically use Tygon fuel lines, which are resistant to fuel and oil and come in various sizes.
Fuel Filter: The fuel filter prevents debris from entering the carburetor. A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow. The filter is usually located inside the fuel tank, attached to the end of the fuel line. To access it, you may need to use a small hook or pliers to pull it out. Inspect the filter for dirt and debris. If it’s clogged, replace it with a new one. I recommend replacing the fuel filter annually as part of your routine maintenance.

Primer Bulb

Functionality: The primer bulb helps to prime the carburetor by drawing fuel from the tank. Press the primer bulb several times and watch to see if fuel is flowing through the clear fuel lines. If the primer bulb is cracked or damaged, it won’t create a vacuum and will need to be replaced. Also, check the primer bulb for proper seating and sealing.

Case Study: The Case of the Crumbled Fuel Line

I once spent hours troubleshooting a blower that wouldn’t start. I checked everything – spark, compression, carburetor. Finally, in desperation, I tugged on the fuel line a little harder than usual, and it crumbled in my hand. It looked fine at first glance, but the inside had completely deteriorated. Replacing that $5 fuel line solved the whole problem.

Takeaway: Don’t underestimate the importance of a thorough visual inspection.

Step 2: Carburetor Examination

The carburetor mixes fuel and air in the correct proportions for combustion. A dirty or malfunctioning carburetor is a common cause of starting and stalling issues.

Initial Carburetor Check

External Cleanliness: Start by cleaning the outside of the carburetor. Use a carburetor cleaner spray to remove any dirt or grime that may be interfering with its operation.
Throttle and Choke Linkage: Make sure the throttle and choke linkages are moving freely and are properly connected. Sometimes, a loose linkage can prevent the throttle or choke from opening or closing correctly.

Carburetor Cleaning (Basic)

Disassembly (Partial): Before diving into a full carburetor rebuild, try a basic cleaning. Remove the air filter housing to access the carburetor.
Carburetor Cleaner: Spray carburetor cleaner into the carburetor throat, paying particular attention to the jets and orifices. Let the cleaner soak for a few minutes to dissolve any deposits.
Compressed Air: Use compressed air to blow out any remaining cleaner and debris. Be sure to wear eye protection when using compressed air.

Carburetor Rebuild (Advanced)

If a basic cleaning doesn’t solve the problem, a carburetor rebuild may be necessary. This involves disassembling the carburetor, cleaning all the parts, and replacing any worn or damaged components.

Disassembly (Complete): Carefully disassemble the carburetor, taking note of the location of each part. I recommend taking pictures as you go to help with reassembly.
Cleaning: Soak all the carburetor parts in carburetor cleaner for several hours. Use a carburetor cleaning brush or a small wire to clean out any stubborn deposits.
Rebuild Kit: Purchase a carburetor rebuild kit that includes new gaskets, O-rings, and other essential parts. Replace all the old gaskets and O-rings with the new ones from the kit.
Reassembly: Reassemble the carburetor, following the pictures you took during disassembly. Make sure all the parts are properly seated and tightened.
Adjustment: After reassembling the carburetor, you may need to adjust the idle speed and mixture screws. Refer to the Echo PB580T service manual for the proper settings. Typically, you’ll want to start with the factory settings and then fine-tune from there.

My Carburetor Cleaning Ritual

I’ve cleaned countless carburetors over the years, and I’ve developed a bit of a ritual. I use a sonic cleaner for the really stubborn carburetors. The ultrasonic waves vibrate the cleaning solution, reaching even the tiniest passages. After the sonic cleaner, I use a set of carburetor jet cleaning wires to make sure all the jets are clear. Finally, I use compressed air to blow out any remaining debris.

Takeaway: A clean carburetor is a happy carburetor.

Step 3: Ignition System Inspection

The ignition system provides the spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture in the engine. A faulty ignition system can prevent the engine from starting.

Spark Plug Check

Visual Inspection: Remove the spark plug and inspect it. Look for cracks, chips, or excessive wear on the electrode. A fouled spark plug can also indicate other problems, such as a rich fuel mixture or excessive oil consumption.
Spark Test: Reconnect the spark plug to the spark plug wire and ground the spark plug against the engine block. Pull the starter rope and watch for a spark. If there’s no spark, the spark plug is likely bad and needs to be replaced. A healthy spark should be bright blue and consistent. A weak or intermittent spark indicates a problem with the ignition system.
Spark Plug Gap: Check the spark plug gap using a spark plug gap tool. The correct gap for the Echo PB580T is typically around 0.025 inches. Adjust the gap as needed.
Spark Plug Replacement: I recommend replacing the spark plug annually, even if it looks okay. A new spark plug can improve engine performance and fuel efficiency. I typically use NGK spark plugs in my small engines.

Ignition Coil Test

Location: The ignition coil is responsible for generating the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture. It’s usually located near the flywheel.
Testing with Multimeter: Use a multimeter to test the ignition coil. Set the multimeter to measure resistance. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Connect the multimeter leads to the spark plug wire terminal on the ignition coil and to the engine ground. The resistance should be within the range specified in the Echo PB580T service manual. If the resistance is outside the specified range, the ignition coil is likely bad and needs to be replaced.

Flywheel Key

Sheared Key: The flywheel key is a small metal key that connects the flywheel to the crankshaft. If the engine experiences a sudden stop or a hard impact, the flywheel key can shear, causing the timing to be off.
Inspection: Remove the flywheel cover and inspect the flywheel key. If the key is sheared, it will need to be replaced. Replacing the flywheel key requires removing the flywheel, which may require a special puller tool.

Story Time: The Unexpected Flywheel Key

I once had a blower that would start, but it ran terribly. It lacked power and would stall frequently. I checked everything – fuel, carburetor, spark. Finally, I decided to check the flywheel key, even though it seemed unlikely. Sure enough, the key was partially sheared. It was enough to throw off the timing and cause the engine to run poorly.

Takeaway: Don’t overlook the small things.

Step 4: Compression Test

Compression is essential for the engine to ignite the fuel-air mixture. Low compression can be caused by worn piston rings, a damaged cylinder, or leaky valves.

Performing a Compression Test

Compression Tester: You’ll need a compression tester to perform this test. These are relatively inexpensive and can be found at most auto parts stores.
Procedure: Remove the spark plug and screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Pull the starter rope several times and observe the reading on the compression tester. The compression should be within the range specified in the Echo PB580T service manual.
Interpreting Results:
- Low Compression: If the compression is low, try adding a few drops of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Repeat the compression test. If the compression increases significantly, it indicates worn piston rings. If the compression doesn’t increase, it indicates a problem with the valves or the cylinder.
- No Compression: If there’s no compression at all, it indicates a serious problem with the engine, such as a hole in the piston or a severely damaged cylinder.

Common Causes of Low Compression

Worn Piston Rings: Over time, the piston rings can wear down, allowing combustion gases to leak past the piston.
Damaged Cylinder: The cylinder can be damaged by overheating, lack of lubrication, or foreign objects entering the engine.
Leaky Valves: The valves can become worn or damaged, preventing them from sealing properly.

My Compression Testing Experience

I remember one blower that had surprisingly low compression. I assumed the engine was shot. However, after closer inspection, I found that the spark plug wasn’t fully tightened. The leaking compression was escaping around the spark plug threads. Tightening the spark plug brought the compression back up to normal.

Takeaway: Double-check the obvious before assuming the worst.

Step 5: Exhaust System Inspection

A clogged exhaust system can restrict the flow of exhaust gases, causing the engine to stall or run poorly.

Checking the Spark Arrestor

Location: The spark arrestor is a small screen located in the muffler. It prevents sparks from exiting the exhaust system, reducing the risk of fire.
Inspection: Remove the spark arrestor and inspect it for carbon buildup. A clogged spark arrestor can restrict exhaust flow.
Cleaning: Clean the spark arrestor with a wire brush or carburetor cleaner. If the spark arrestor is severely clogged, it may need to be replaced.

Muffler Inspection

Visual Inspection: Inspect the muffler for damage or corrosion. A damaged muffler can leak exhaust gases and reduce engine performance.
Obstructions: Check the muffler for any obstructions, such as nests or debris.

My Muffler Mishap

I once had a blower that was running poorly. I checked everything – fuel, carburetor, spark, compression. Finally, I decided to check the muffler. To my surprise, a mud dauber wasp had built a nest inside the muffler, completely blocking the exhaust flow. Removing the nest restored the engine to its full power.

Takeaway: Nature can be a surprising source of engine problems.

Step 6: Air Filter Maintenance

A clean air filter is essential for proper engine performance. A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the carburetor, causing the engine to run rich and stall.

Air Filter Inspection

Visual Inspection: Remove the air filter and inspect it for dirt and debris.
Cleaning: If the air filter is dirty, clean it with compressed air or wash it with soap and water. Allow the air filter to dry completely before reinstalling it.
Replacement: I recommend replacing the air filter annually, or more frequently if you use your blower in dusty conditions.

Air Filter Types

Foam Filters: Foam filters are washable and reusable.
Paper Filters: Paper filters are disposable and should be replaced when they become dirty.

My Air Filter Advice

I always keep a spare air filter on hand. That way, I can quickly swap out a dirty filter and continue working without interruption.

Takeaway: A clean air filter is a happy engine.

Step 7: Recoil Starter Examination

A faulty recoil starter can prevent you from starting the engine.

Checking the Recoil Starter

Rope Condition: Inspect the starter rope for wear and tear. A frayed or broken rope will need to be replaced.
Spring Tension: Check the recoil spring tension. If the rope doesn’t retract fully, the spring may be weak or broken.
Pawls: Inspect the pawls for wear or damage. The pawls are the small metal pieces that engage the flywheel.

Recoil Starter Repair

Rope Replacement: Replacing the starter rope is a relatively simple task. You’ll need a new starter rope and a pair of pliers.
Spring Replacement: Replacing the recoil spring is a more difficult task. You’ll need to disassemble the recoil starter and carefully remove the old spring. Be careful, as the spring is under tension and can cause injury if released improperly.
Pawl Replacement: Replacing the pawls is also a relatively simple task. You’ll need new pawls and a pair of pliers.

My Recoil Starter Revelation

I once struggled for hours trying to replace a recoil starter spring. I couldn’t get the spring to wind up properly. Finally, I watched a YouTube video that showed a simple trick for winding the spring using a pair of pliers. That trick saved me a lot of time and frustration.

Takeaway: YouTube can be a valuable resource for small engine repair.

Step 8: Troubleshooting Stalling Issues

If your blower starts but stalls shortly after, the problem may be related to fuel starvation, overheating, or a faulty sensor.

Fuel Starvation

Check Fuel Lines: Ensure that the fuel lines are not kinked or blocked.
Check Fuel Filter: Make sure the fuel filter is clean and allows adequate fuel flow.
Carburetor Adjustment: Adjust the carburetor settings to ensure a proper fuel-air mixture.

Overheating

Check Cooling Fins: Make sure the cooling fins on the engine are clean and free of debris.
Check Airflow: Ensure that there is adequate airflow around the engine.
Check Spark Arrestor: A clogged spark arrestor can cause the engine to overheat.

Faulty Sensor

Temperature Sensor: Some blowers have a temperature sensor that shuts down the engine if it overheats. If the sensor is faulty, it may shut down the engine prematurely.
Ignition Module: A faulty ignition module can cause the engine to stall intermittently.

Story Time: The Mysterious Stalling

I had a blower that would start and run for a few minutes, then stall. I checked everything – fuel, carburetor, spark, compression. Finally, I noticed that the fuel tank was getting hot. The fuel cap vent was clogged, creating a vacuum in the tank. As the engine ran, it created more vacuum, eventually starving the engine of fuel. Cleaning the fuel cap vent solved the problem.

Takeaway: Think about the system as a whole.

Step 9: Diagnostic Tools and Equipment

Having the right tools can make troubleshooting and repairing your Echo PB580T much easier.

Essential Tools

Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead): For removing and installing screws.
Pliers: For gripping and manipulating parts.
Socket Set: For removing and installing nuts and bolts.
Wrench Set: For tightening and loosening nuts and bolts.
Spark Plug Wrench: For removing and installing the spark plug.
Compression Tester: For measuring engine compression.
Multimeter: For testing electrical components.
Carburetor Cleaning Brush: For cleaning carburetor jets and orifices.
Compressed Air: For blowing out debris and cleaning parts.

Specialized Tools

Flywheel Puller: For removing the flywheel.
Carburetor Adjustment Tool: For adjusting the carburetor settings.
Sonic Cleaner: For cleaning carburetors.

My Tool Philosophy

I believe in investing in quality tools. They’ll last longer and make your work easier. I also believe in keeping my tools organized. A well-organized toolbox saves time and frustration.

Takeaway: The right tools make all the difference.

Step 10: Preventive Maintenance

Preventive maintenance is the key to keeping your Echo PB580T running smoothly and reliably.

Regular Maintenance Tasks

Check Fuel Level: Check the fuel level before each use.
Check Air Filter: Check the air filter regularly and clean or replace it as needed.
Check Spark Plug: Check the spark plug annually and replace it if necessary.
Check Fuel Lines: Check the fuel lines for cracks or leaks.
Check Spark Arrestor: Check the spark arrestor regularly and clean it as needed.
Lubricate Moving Parts: Lubricate any moving parts, such as the throttle linkage and the recoil starter.
Store Properly: Store the blower in a clean, dry place when not in use.

Seasonal Maintenance

End of Season: At the end of the season, drain the fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls. This will prevent fuel from gumming up the carburetor. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel if you plan to store the blower for an extended period.
Beginning of Season: At the beginning of the season, check all the maintenance items listed above.
Takeaway: Preventive maintenance is the best medicine.

Conclusion: Persistence Pays Off

Troubleshooting a non-starting or stalling Echo PB580T can be frustrating, but with a systematic approach and a little patience, you can usually diagnose and fix the problem yourself. Start with the basics – fuel, spark, compression – and work your way through the troubleshooting steps outlined in this guide. Don’t be afraid to ask for help from a qualified mechanic if you get stuck. And remember, persistence pays off. The satisfaction of getting your blower running again is well worth the effort.

I hope this guide has been helpful. Now, go get those leaves!