Drying Cedar Leaves For Woodwork (Expert Tips On Seasoning)

Ever find yourself staring at a pile of freshly cut cedar, dreaming of the beautiful projects you could create, only to be held back by the fact that it’s, well, green? I’ve been there. More times than I care to admit. That frustration – the gap between raw material and usable lumber – is what spurred my deep dive into wood seasoning, specifically using cedar leaves. It might sound a bit unconventional, but trust me, there’s a method to this madness. In this guide, I’ll share everything I’ve learned about drying cedar leaves for woodwork, from the science behind it to practical, step-by-step instructions you can follow.

Drying Cedar Leaves for Woodwork: Expert Tips on Seasoning

Why Cedar Leaves? An Unconventional Approach

Most discussions on wood seasoning focus on air drying, kiln drying, or chemical treatments. So, why even consider cedar leaves? Here’s the thing: cedar leaves offer a unique blend of properties that can be beneficial, especially for smaller-scale woodworking projects.

Natural Aromatic Oils: Cedar is renowned for its aromatic oils, which act as a natural insect repellent and preservative. These oils are concentrated in the leaves. As the leaves dry around the wood, these oils are gently transferred, offering a degree of protection against pests and decay during the drying process.
Gentle Drying Environment: A bed of cedar leaves creates a more controlled and gradual drying environment compared to direct sunlight or high winds. This reduces the risk of rapid moisture loss, which can lead to cracking and warping.
Traditional Knowledge: Historically, various cultures have used plant materials to aid in wood preservation and seasoning. While not extensively documented for cedar leaves specifically, the principle of using organic matter to regulate moisture and impart beneficial properties is well-established.

I first stumbled upon this technique while researching traditional wood preservation methods used by indigenous communities in the Pacific Northwest, where Western Red Cedar is abundant. While their methods were more holistic, incorporating bark and other forest floor debris, the underlying principle of using cedar’s natural properties intrigued me.

Understanding the Basics: Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Before diving into the specifics, let’s clarify a few key terms.

Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It’s heavier, more prone to warping and cracking, and harder to work with.
Seasoned Wood: This is wood that has been dried to a stable moisture content, typically between 6% and 12% for indoor use. Seasoned wood is lighter, more dimensionally stable, and easier to work with.

The goal of seasoning is to reduce the moisture content of green wood to a level that is in equilibrium with the surrounding environment. This prevents the wood from shrinking, swelling, or warping after it’s been used in a project.

Step-by-Step Guide to Drying Cedar Leaves for Woodwork

Now, let’s get to the practical part. This is the process I’ve refined over several years of experimentation. Keep in mind that this method is best suited for smaller pieces of cedar, such as turning blanks, carving blocks, or thin boards.

Step 1: Harvesting and Preparing Cedar Leaves

Timing is Key: The best time to harvest cedar leaves is in the late summer or early fall when the trees are actively shedding their foliage. This is when the leaves have the highest concentration of oils.
Sustainable Harvesting: Only harvest leaves from branches that have already fallen or that are being pruned. Avoid stripping leaves directly from living trees, as this can harm the tree.
Leaf Selection: Choose healthy, green leaves that are free from disease or insect damage. Avoid leaves that are brown or brittle.
Quantity: You’ll need a significant amount of leaves to create a thick bed for the wood to rest on. A good rule of thumb is to gather at least twice the volume of the wood you intend to dry.
Cleaning: Gently remove any debris, such as twigs, pine needles, or dirt, from the leaves. You don’t need to wash them, as this will add moisture.

Step 2: Preparing the Wood

Initial Shaping (Optional): If you’re working with a turning blank or carving block, you can rough-shape it to near its final dimensions before drying. This will help reduce the amount of material that needs to be removed after drying and minimize the risk of warping.
End Sealing: Apply a sealant to the end grain of the wood. This is crucial to prevent rapid moisture loss from the ends, which can lead to cracking. I recommend using a commercial end grain sealer, such as Anchorseal, or a thick coat of paraffin wax.
Weight Measurement (Optional): Weighing the wood before starting the drying process can help you track its moisture loss over time. Record the initial weight and date.

Step 3: Creating the Drying Bed

Container Selection: Choose a container that is large enough to accommodate the wood and a thick layer of cedar leaves. A plastic storage bin or a wooden box works well. The container should have some ventilation, but not be completely open to the elements.
Leaf Layering: Create a thick layer of cedar leaves at the bottom of the container, at least 4-6 inches deep. This layer will act as a moisture buffer and help regulate the drying process.
Wood Placement: Place the wood on top of the leaf layer, ensuring that it is not touching the sides of the container.
Leaf Covering: Cover the wood with another thick layer of cedar leaves, completely burying it.

Step 4: Monitoring and Adjusting

Location: Place the container in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area. Avoid direct sunlight or areas with high humidity. A garage, shed, or basement is ideal.
Regular Checks: Check the wood and leaves periodically, at least once a week. Feel the leaves for moisture content. If the leaves feel damp or moldy, replace them with fresh, dry leaves.
Weight Monitoring (Optional): If you weighed the wood initially, weigh it again each week and record the weight. This will give you a quantifiable measure of moisture loss.
Air Circulation: Ensure adequate air circulation around the container. You can use a small fan to improve airflow, but avoid directing the fan directly at the wood.
Rotation (For Larger Pieces): For larger pieces of wood, rotate them periodically (e.g., every two weeks) to ensure even drying.

Step 5: Determining Dryness

Weight Stabilization: The most reliable indicator of dryness is weight stabilization. When the weight of the wood stops decreasing over several weeks, it is likely that it has reached equilibrium with the surrounding environment.
Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood. Aim for a moisture content of 6-8% for indoor use.
Visual Inspection: Look for signs of cracking or warping. If you see any significant defects, the wood may not be suitable for your intended project.
The “Tap” Test: Seasoned wood will produce a sharper, more resonant sound when tapped compared to green wood, which will sound duller.

Step 6: Post-Drying Storage

Proper Storage: Once the wood is dry, store it in a stable environment to prevent it from reabsorbing moisture. Wrap it in breathable fabric, such as cotton, or store it in a climate-controlled room.
Acclimation: Before using the wood in a project, allow it to acclimate to the environment where it will be used for several days. This will help prevent any unexpected movement after the project is completed.

Tools and Equipment

While this method doesn’t require specialized equipment, having the right tools can make the process easier and more efficient.

Harvesting Tools:
- Gloves: Protect your hands from thorns and sap.
- Pruning Shears or Hand Saw: For harvesting leaves from branches.
- Collection Container: A bucket or bag for gathering leaves.
Wood Preparation Tools:
- Chainsaw (Optional): For cutting logs into smaller pieces (e.g., turning blanks). I personally use a Stihl MS 261 C-M for its reliability and power.
- Axe or Splitting Maul (Optional): For splitting larger pieces of wood. A Fiskars X27 splitting axe is a great choice for its efficiency.
- End Grain Sealer or Paraffin Wax: To prevent cracking.
- Brush or Applicator: For applying the end grain sealer.
Drying and Monitoring Tools:
- Container: A plastic storage bin or wooden box.
- Moisture Meter: To measure the moisture content of the wood. I use a Delmhorst BD-8.
- Scale (Optional): To track weight loss.
- Small Fan (Optional): To improve air circulation.

Case Study: Drying Cedar Turning Blanks

I recently used this method to dry a batch of Western Red Cedar turning blanks for a series of small bowls. I harvested the cedar leaves in late September, after a particularly windy storm brought down several branches.

Preparation: I cut the cedar logs into roughly square blanks, approximately 6″ x 6″ x 3″. I then sealed the end grain with Anchorseal.
Drying Bed: I used a large plastic storage bin and created a thick bed of cedar leaves, about 8 inches deep.
Monitoring: I placed the blanks on top of the leaves, covered them with more leaves, and placed the bin in my garage. I checked the leaves weekly, replacing them as needed. I also weighed the blanks every two weeks.
Results: After about 4 months, the weight of the blanks stabilized, and the moisture meter readings were consistently below 8%. The blanks were free from cracks and warping, and they had a pleasant cedar aroma.
Turning: The blanks turned beautifully, producing smooth, even surfaces. The bowls have retained their shape and have not shown any signs of cracking or warping.

This case study demonstrates the effectiveness of this method for drying smaller pieces of cedar. While it takes longer than kiln drying, it’s a gentle and natural way to season the wood and preserve its unique properties.

Benefits and Strategic Advantages

Reduced Cracking and Warping: The gradual drying process minimizes the risk of these defects.
Natural Preservation: The cedar oils offer a degree of protection against insects and decay.
Cost-Effective: This method requires minimal investment in equipment.
Environmentally Friendly: It utilizes a natural resource and avoids the use of harsh chemicals.
Aromatic Enhancement: The wood retains a pleasant cedar aroma.

Challenges and Considerations

Time-Consuming: This method is slower than kiln drying. Expect drying times of several months to a year, depending on the size and thickness of the wood.
Space Requirements: You’ll need a dedicated space to store the drying container.
Mold and Mildew: If the leaves become too damp, mold or mildew can develop. Regular monitoring and replacement of the leaves are essential.
Limited Applicability: This method is best suited for smaller pieces of wood. It’s not practical for drying large timbers or boards.
Moisture Content Variability: Achieving a consistent moisture content throughout the wood can be challenging. Moisture meters are essential for accurate measurement.

Safety Considerations

Wear Gloves: Protect your hands from thorns, sap, and potential irritants.
Use Proper Tools: Use sharp and well-maintained tools for harvesting and preparing the wood.
Ventilation: Ensure adequate ventilation in the drying area to prevent the buildup of mold or mildew.
Dust Protection: When working with cedar, wear a dust mask to avoid inhaling cedar dust, which can be irritating to the respiratory system.

Cost Analysis

The cost of this method is relatively low, primarily involving the cost of the container, end grain sealer, and moisture meter.

Container: \$10-\$30
End Grain Sealer: \$20-\$40
Moisture Meter: \$50-\$200 (depending on the model)

The cost of the cedar leaves is essentially free if you have access to cedar trees.

Strategic Insights

Combine with Air Drying: You can combine this method with air drying to speed up the process. Partially air dry the wood before burying it in cedar leaves.
Experiment with Different Cedar Species: Different cedar species have different oil compositions and drying characteristics. Experiment to find the best species for your needs.
Use as a Finishing Technique: You can use cedar leaves to impart a subtle cedar aroma to finished wood projects. Place the finished piece in a container with cedar leaves for a few days.

Next Steps

Ready to try drying cedar leaves for woodwork? Here’s what to do next:

Gather Cedar Leaves: Start by harvesting a sufficient quantity of healthy, green cedar leaves.
Prepare Your Wood: Cut your wood to the desired size and seal the end grain.
Create Your Drying Bed: Set up your container and create a thick bed of cedar leaves.
Monitor and Adjust: Regularly check the leaves and wood, and replace the leaves as needed.
Be Patient: Remember that this is a slow process. Don’t rush it.
Enjoy the Results: Once the wood is dry, you’ll have a beautiful, naturally preserved material to work with.

Conclusion

Drying cedar leaves for woodwork is a unique and rewarding method that offers several benefits over traditional drying techniques. While it requires patience and attention to detail, the results are well worth the effort. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can successfully season cedar and create beautiful, long-lasting wood projects. I encourage you to experiment with this method and discover the unique properties of cedar for yourself. Remember, woodworking is a journey of learning and discovery. Embrace the process, and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Drying Cedar Leaves for Woodwork (Expert Tips on Seasoning)