Drive Links On Chainsaw Chains (5 Pro Tips For Perfect Fit)

In the realm of smart homes, we often hear about interconnected devices managing our lighting, temperature, and security. But let’s shift gears and talk about something a little less “smart” in the digital sense, but incredibly intelligent in its design and function: the chainsaw. Specifically, I want to delve into the often-overlooked hero of a chainsaw chain: the drive link. It’s a small component that plays a colossal role. I’ve spent years felling trees, processing timber, and preparing firewood, and I can tell you that understanding drive links and ensuring a perfect fit is absolutely crucial for safe, efficient, and enjoyable chainsaw operation. These tips will help you achieve the perfect fit.

Drive Links on Chainsaw Chains: 5 Pro Tips for Perfect Fit

The drive link, that unassuming piece of metal nestled between the cutting teeth and the tie straps, is what propels the chain around the chainsaw bar. It engages with the sprocket on the chainsaw, converting the engine’s rotational power into the cutting force needed to slice through wood. A poorly fitted chain, due to incorrect drive link count or gauge, can lead to a host of problems, from premature wear and tear to dangerous kickback.

1. Mastering the Basics: Understanding Drive Link Specifications

Before even thinking about replacing a chain, it’s essential to understand the three critical specifications that define a chainsaw chain: pitch, gauge, and drive link count. These parameters determine compatibility with your chainsaw model.

Pitch: This refers to the distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are 0.325″, 3/8″ (0.375″), and 0.404″. The pitch must match the sprocket and bar on your chainsaw. I’ve seen folks try to force a 3/8″ chain onto a 0.325″ sprocket – it simply doesn’t work and can damage the saw.
Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links where they fit into the groove of the chainsaw bar. Common gauges are 0.043″, 0.050″, 0.058″, and 0.063″. Using the wrong gauge can cause the chain to bind in the bar, leading to overheating, reduced cutting performance, and even chain breakage. I once used a chain with a gauge that was too small, and the chain kept popping out of the bar. Not only was it frustrating, but it was also incredibly dangerous.
Drive Link Count: This is the total number of drive links on the chain. This number is specific to your chainsaw bar length and must be accurate for the chain to fit properly. Too few drive links, and the chain won’t reach around the bar; too many, and the chain will be too loose, increasing the risk of derailment and potential injury.

How to Determine Your Chain Specs:
- Owner’s Manual: This is always the first place to look. Your chainsaw’s manual will specify the correct pitch, gauge, and drive link count for the recommended bar lengths.
- Chainsaw Bar: Many chainsaw bars have the pitch and gauge stamped directly onto them. This is a handy reference, but always double-check with the manual.
- Old Chain: If you’re replacing an existing chain, you can count the drive links on the old chain. However, be sure the old chain was the correct one in the first place! Also, the information can be stamped on the drive links.
- Online Resources: Reputable chainsaw parts retailers often have online tools that allow you to find the correct chain for your chainsaw model.
Real-World Example: I was helping a friend replace the chain on his Stihl MS 271 chainsaw. He thought all 18-inch chains were the same. We checked the owner’s manual and found that the correct specifications were: 0.325″ pitch, 0.063″ gauge, and 74 drive links. He was about to buy a chain with 72 drive links!

Takeaway: Always verify the pitch, gauge, and drive link count before purchasing or installing a chainsaw chain. The owner’s manual and chainsaw bar are your best resources.

2. Counting Drive Links Like a Pro: Accurate Methods and Avoiding Errors

Counting drive links seems simple enough, but it’s surprising how often mistakes are made. An incorrect count can render your new chain useless. Here’s a systematic approach to ensure accuracy:

Preparation: Lay the chain out on a flat surface, preferably a clean workbench. This will make it easier to handle and count the drive links.
Starting Point: Choose a drive link and mark it with a permanent marker. This will prevent you from losing track of your count.
Counting Method: Systematically count each drive link, one by one. I find it helpful to use a small tool, like a screwdriver, to point to each link as I count.
Double-Check: Once you’ve reached the starting point, double-check your count. It’s always a good idea to have someone else independently count the links as well.
Record: Write down the drive link count immediately. Don’t rely on your memory.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

Skipping Links: It’s easy to accidentally skip a link, especially when dealing with a long chain.
Counting the Same Link Twice: This is more likely to happen when you’re distracted or interrupted.
Misinterpreting Damaged Links: Severely damaged or worn drive links can be difficult to identify, leading to an inaccurate count.

Case Study: I was working with a crew felling trees for a small logging operation. One of the new guys was tasked with preparing the chains for the day. He miscounted the drive links on several chains, resulting in significant downtime while we had to re-rivet the chains to the correct length. This cost the operation time and money.

Pro Tip: If you’re unsure about the drive link count, it’s always better to err on the side of caution and purchase a chain with a few extra links. You can always remove links using a chain breaker and rivet spinner, but you can’t add them back on!

Takeaway: Counting drive links accurately is crucial for ensuring a proper chain fit. Use a systematic approach, avoid common mistakes, and double-check your work.

3. The Importance of Gauge: Matching Chain to Bar Groove

The gauge of the chainsaw chain is often overlooked, but it’s just as important as the pitch and drive link count. The gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links, and it must match the width of the groove on your chainsaw bar.

Why Gauge Matters: If the chain gauge is too small for the bar groove, the chain will be loose and prone to derailment. This can be dangerous and can also damage the chain and bar. If the chain gauge is too large for the bar groove, the chain will bind, causing excessive friction and heat. This can lead to premature wear and tear on the chain, bar, and sprocket.
Identifying the Correct Gauge: As mentioned earlier, the gauge is often stamped on the chainsaw bar. You can also find the gauge in your chainsaw’s owner’s manual.
Measuring Gauge (If Necessary): If you’re unsure of the gauge, you can measure it using a caliper. Measure the thickness of the drive links where they fit into the bar groove.

Common Problems and Solutions:

Chain Binding: If your chain is binding in the bar groove, it’s likely that the gauge is too large. Check the gauge of the chain and the bar, and make sure they match. You may need to replace the chain with one that has the correct gauge.
Chain Derailment: If your chain is constantly derailing from the bar, it’s likely that the gauge is too small. Check the gauge of the chain and the bar, and make sure they match. You may need to replace the chain with one that has the correct gauge.

My Experience: I once inherited an old chainsaw from my grandfather. The bar had been replaced at some point, and the gauge of the bar groove didn’t match the gauge of the chain. The chain kept derailing, and I couldn’t figure out why. After some research, I realized the problem and replaced the bar with one that matched the chain gauge. The chainsaw worked perfectly after that.

Takeaway: The gauge of the chainsaw chain must match the width of the groove on the chainsaw bar. Using the wrong gauge can lead to binding, derailment, and premature wear and tear. Always check the gauge before installing a new chain.

4. Tensioning and Break-In: Achieving Optimal Chain Performance

Even with the correct pitch, gauge, and drive link count, a chainsaw chain won’t perform optimally if it’s not properly tensioned and broken in. Correct chain tension is critical for safety, cutting efficiency, and chain longevity.

Chain Tensioning: The ideal chain tension allows the chain to be pulled around the bar by hand, but not so loose that it sags noticeably. Here’s how to properly tension a chainsaw chain:
1. Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use the wrench provided with your chainsaw to loosen the bar nuts that secure the bar to the saw body. Don’t remove the nuts completely, just loosen them enough so that the bar can move slightly.
2. Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Locate the chain tensioning screw, usually located on the side of the saw body or on the bar itself. Turn the screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
3. Check the Tension: With the bar nuts still loose, lift the tip of the bar upwards. The chain should sag slightly on the underside of the bar. You should be able to pull the chain around the bar by hand without excessive force.
4. Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once you’ve achieved the correct tension, tighten the bar nuts securely.
5. Re-Check the Tension: After tightening the bar nuts, re-check the chain tension. It may be necessary to make minor adjustments.
Chain Break-In: New chainsaw chains need to be broken in to ensure proper lubrication and prevent premature wear. Here’s how to break in a new chain:
1. Soak the Chain in Oil: Before installing the chain, soak it in chainsaw bar and chain oil for at least 30 minutes. This will ensure that the chain is thoroughly lubricated.
2. Install and Tension the Chain: Install the chain on the chainsaw and tension it properly, as described above.
3. Run the Saw at Idle: Start the chainsaw and let it run at idle speed for a few minutes. This will allow the oil to circulate through the chain and bar.
4. Make Several Light Cuts: Make several light cuts through softwood. Avoid cutting through hardwoods or dirty wood, as this can damage the chain.
5. Re-Tension the Chain: After making a few cuts, re-tension the chain. New chains tend to stretch slightly during the break-in period.
6. Continue Cutting: Continue cutting, making sure to lubricate the chain frequently.

Warning Signs of Improper Chain Tension:

Excessive Vibration: A loose chain can cause excessive vibration, which can be uncomfortable and potentially dangerous.
Chain Slippage: A loose chain may slip off the bar, especially when cutting through dense wood.
Overheating: An overtightened chain can cause excessive friction and heat, which can damage the chain and bar.
Blueing of the Bar: Overheating can cause the bar to turn blue, indicating that it has been damaged by excessive heat.

Personal Anecdote: I once saw a logger ignore chain tensioning. He assumed it was fine. The chain derailed mid-cut, narrowly missing his leg. It was a stark reminder of how crucial proper tensioning is for safety.

Takeaway: Proper chain tensioning and break-in are essential for optimal chain performance and safety. Follow the steps outlined above to ensure that your chain is properly tensioned and broken in.

5. Chain Maintenance: Extending Chain Life and Performance

Proper chain maintenance is crucial for extending the life of your chainsaw chain and ensuring optimal cutting performance. A well-maintained chain will cut faster, smoother, and safer.

Sharpening: A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback. Sharpen your chain regularly using a chainsaw file or a chain grinder. I prefer to sharpen my chains after every few tanks of gas, or whenever I notice a decrease in cutting performance.
- Filing: Filing is a simple and effective way to sharpen your chain. Use a round file of the correct diameter for your chain’s pitch. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct filing angle and depth.
- Grinding: A chain grinder is a more precise way to sharpen your chain. A grinder can sharpen all the cutters to the same angle and depth, ensuring consistent cutting performance.
Cleaning: Keep your chain clean by removing sawdust, pitch, and other debris. Use a wire brush or a solvent to clean the chain. I often use a degreaser to remove stubborn pitch buildup.
Lubrication: Proper lubrication is essential for reducing friction and wear. Use a high-quality chainsaw bar and chain oil. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. I prefer using a synthetic bar and chain oil, as it provides better lubrication and resists breakdown at high temperatures.
Inspection: Inspect your chain regularly for damage, such as cracked or broken cutters, worn drive links, and loose rivets. Replace the chain if you find any significant damage.
Storage: When not in use, store your chain in a clean, dry place. I often soak my chains in oil before storing them to prevent rust and corrosion.

Common Chain Problems and Solutions:

Chain Stretch: Chains will stretch over time. Regularly adjust the chain tension to compensate for stretch. If the chain is stretched excessively, it may need to be replaced.
Worn Drive Links: Worn drive links can cause the chain to skip on the sprocket. Replace the chain if the drive links are significantly worn.
Broken Cutters: Replace the chain if you have several broken cutters. A chain with broken cutters will not cut efficiently and can be dangerous.

My Best Tip: I’ve found that keeping a small sharpening kit with me in the field is invaluable. A quick touch-up with a file can make a huge difference in cutting performance and reduce fatigue.

Takeaway: Regular chain maintenance is essential for extending chain life and ensuring optimal cutting performance. Sharpen your chain regularly, keep it clean and lubricated, and inspect it for damage.

By following these five pro tips, I’m confident you’ll master the art of selecting and maintaining chainsaw chains with the perfect drive link fit. Remember, safety and efficiency go hand in hand. A well-maintained and properly fitted chain will not only make your wood processing tasks easier but also significantly reduce the risk of accidents. Now go forth and conquer those logs!

Drive Links on Chainsaw Chains (5 Pro Tips for Perfect Fit)