Dead Ash Trees Uses (5 Expert Tips For Firewood & Fencing)

The old ash tree stood sentinel at the edge of my property for as long as I could remember. Towering over the landscape, its leaves provided a cool canopy in the summer and a vibrant display of color in the fall. Then, the emerald ash borer arrived. Like a silent plague, it swept through the region, leaving behind a wake of skeletal trees. I watched, heartbroken, as my majestic ash succumbed to the infestation. It was a slow, agonizing decline, and soon, I was left with a dead ash tree – a stark reminder of nature’s fragility.

But what to do with it? That was the question that plagued me. Felling it was the first challenge, but then what? Landfill? That felt wasteful. Just leaving it to rot? Not on my watch. That’s when I decided to turn this loss into something useful. I researched, experimented, and learned how to transform dead ash trees into valuable resources. And now, I want to share my expert tips with you on how to make the most of your own dead ash trees, focusing on two primary uses: firewood and fencing.

Dead Ash Trees: Uses & Expert Tips for Firewood & Fencing

Ash trees, once vibrant components of our forests, are increasingly falling victim to pests like the emerald ash borer. While their demise is unfortunate, the wood can still be incredibly useful. I’m going to walk you through how to safely harvest and utilize dead ash, focusing on firewood and fencing. We’ll cover everything from assessing the tree’s condition to the best splitting techniques and fence post preservation methods.

Understanding Dead Ash

Before we dive into how to use dead ash, it’s crucial to understand what makes it unique, especially when it’s no longer alive.

Wood Anatomy and Properties

Ash is a hardwood known for its strength, elasticity, and shock resistance. Its grain is typically straight and even, making it relatively easy to split. Freshly cut ash has a moisture content that can range from 60% to over 80% of its dry weight. This high moisture content is why proper seasoning is crucial, especially when using it for firewood.

The Impact of Emerald Ash Borer

The emerald ash borer (EAB) is a devastating invasive species that attacks ash trees. The larvae burrow under the bark, disrupting the flow of water and nutrients, eventually killing the tree. While EAB weakens the tree, the wood itself doesn’t necessarily rot immediately. However, secondary decay fungi can move in after the tree dies, so it’s important to assess the condition of the wood.

Assessing the Condition

Here’s what I look for when assessing a dead ash tree:

Bark Condition: Is the bark still tightly attached, or is it peeling off in large sections? Loose bark is a sign of advanced decay.
Branch Integrity: Are the branches brittle and easily broken, or do they still have some flexibility? Brittle branches indicate significant weakening.
Wood Soundness: Use a hammer or axe to tap the trunk. A solid sound indicates good wood, while a dull, hollow sound suggests rot.
Insect Activity: Look for signs of other insects or wood-boring beetles, which can accelerate decay.

If the tree is heavily decayed, it may not be suitable for firewood or fencing. In such cases, it’s best to leave it as habitat for wildlife or chip it for mulch.

Expert Tip #1: Firewood from Dead Ash

Ash is an excellent firewood choice, rivaling oak in terms of heat output and burn time. Its low moisture content when seasoned and ease of splitting make it a favorite among wood burners.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices

Before you start felling the tree, make sure you have the right tools and equipment. Safety is paramount.

Chainsaw: A well-maintained chainsaw is essential. I recommend a model with a bar length appropriate for the diameter of the tree you’re cutting. For most ash trees, a 16- to 20-inch bar should suffice. Be sure to sharpen the chain regularly for efficient cutting.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This includes a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots. Don’t even think about starting without it.
Wedges and Sledgehammer: These are crucial for controlling the direction of the fall and preventing the saw from binding.
Axe or Maul: For splitting the wood.
Cant Hook or Timberjack: Useful for rolling logs and positioning them for cutting.

Chainsaw Maintenance:

Sharpening: A dull chain is dangerous and inefficient. Learn to sharpen your chain with a file or use a chain grinder.
Cleaning: Regularly clean the air filter and remove sawdust from the engine.
Lubrication: Ensure the chain is properly lubricated to prevent wear and tear.
Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel-to-oil ratio as specified by the manufacturer.

Felling the Tree Safely

Felling a tree is a dangerous task that should only be undertaken by experienced individuals. If you’re not comfortable with this, hire a professional arborist. Here are the basic steps:

Assess the Lean: Determine the natural lean of the tree and plan your felling direction accordingly.
Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles from the felling zone and ensure you have a clear escape route.
Make the Notch Cut: This is a wedge-shaped cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
Use Wedges: If the tree doesn’t start to fall on its own, drive wedges into the back cut to help push it over.
Retreat: As the tree begins to fall, move quickly to your designated escape route.

Bucking and Splitting

Once the tree is on the ground, it’s time to buck it into manageable lengths. I usually cut mine into 16-inch lengths, which fit nicely in my wood stove.

Bucking: Use your chainsaw to cut the trunk into the desired lengths. Be careful to avoid pinching the saw.
Splitting: Splitting can be done manually with an axe or maul, or with a hydraulic log splitter. Hydraulic splitters are faster and easier, especially for larger logs.

Splitting Techniques:

Manual Splitting: Position the log on a chopping block. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and swing the axe or maul, aiming for the center of the log.
Hydraulic Splitting: Place the log on the splitter and activate the ram to split it. Always wear safety glasses when using a hydraulic splitter.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

Seasoning is the process of drying firewood to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and produces less smoke.

Stacking: Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, with good air circulation. I use pallets as a base to keep the wood off the ground.
Covering: Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for ventilation.
Time: Ash typically takes 6-12 months to season properly, depending on the climate.

Safety Considerations:

Wear gloves to protect your hands from splinters.
Use proper lifting techniques to avoid back injuries.
Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for tripping hazards.
Keep children and pets away from the work area.

Firewood Storage

Once the firewood is seasoned, store it in a dry, sheltered location. A woodshed or garage is ideal. Avoid storing firewood directly against the house, as this can attract insects and rodents.

Expert Tip #2: Fencing from Dead Ash

Ash is a durable wood that can be used for fencing, especially if treated properly. While it’s not as rot-resistant as cedar or locust, it can still provide years of service with the right preservation techniques.

Selecting the Right Logs

Choose logs that are straight, free from knots, and show minimal signs of decay. The heartwood (the inner part of the tree) is more durable than the sapwood (the outer part), so try to use as much heartwood as possible.

Post Preparation

Debarking: Remove the bark from the posts. This helps the wood dry faster and prevents insects from burrowing underneath.
Cutting to Length: Cut the posts to the desired length. I typically use 6- to 8-foot posts for my fences.
Pointing: Point one end of each post to make it easier to drive into the ground.

Wood Preservation Techniques

Preserving the wood is crucial to extend the life of your fence posts. There are several methods you can use:

Chemical Treatment: This involves soaking the posts in a preservative solution, such as copper naphthenate or chromated copper arsenate (CCA). CCA is highly effective but is restricted in some areas due to environmental concerns. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and wear appropriate safety gear when using chemical treatments.
Charring: This involves burning the bottom portion of the post. The char layer acts as a barrier against moisture and insects.
Natural Oils: Some people use natural oils like linseed oil or pine tar to protect the wood. These oils are less toxic than chemical treatments but may not be as effective.
Buried Post Protection Sleeves: These are sleeves or wraps that create a physical barrier between the post and the soil, preventing moisture and insect damage.

Fence Construction

Post Spacing: Space the posts evenly, typically 8-10 feet apart.
Setting the Posts: Dig holes for the posts and set them in concrete. Make sure the posts are plumb and level.
Attaching Rails: Attach the rails to the posts using nails, screws, or bolts. You can use ash for the rails as well, or choose a more rot-resistant wood like cedar.

Fence Maintenance

Regular Inspections: Inspect the fence regularly for signs of damage or decay.
Repairing Damage: Repair any damage promptly to prevent it from getting worse.
Re-treating: Re-treat the posts with preservative every few years to maintain their protection.

Expert Tip #3: Understanding Moisture Content Dynamics

Moisture content is the single most crucial factor affecting the quality of firewood and the longevity of fence posts.

Freshly Cut vs. Seasoned Wood

Freshly cut ash can have a moisture content of 60-80% or even higher. This means that more than half the weight of the wood is water. Burning wood with high moisture content is inefficient because a significant amount of energy is used to evaporate the water before the wood can even start burning. This results in less heat output, more smoke, and creosote buildup in your chimney.

Seasoned firewood, on the other hand, has a moisture content of 20% or less. This allows it to burn hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.

Measuring Moisture Content

You can use a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of wood. These devices are relatively inexpensive and can be found at most hardware stores. Simply insert the probes into the wood and the meter will display the moisture content as a percentage.

Factors Affecting Seasoning Time

The time it takes for firewood to season depends on several factors:

Wood Species: Hardwoods like ash take longer to season than softwoods like pine.
Climate: Warmer, drier climates are more conducive to seasoning.
Stacking Method: Proper stacking with good air circulation is essential.
Log Size: Smaller pieces of wood dry faster than larger pieces.

Data-Backed Insights

Research has shown that properly seasoned firewood can increase heat output by as much as 50% compared to green wood. This translates to significant savings on heating costs and a more enjoyable burning experience.

Expert Tip #4: Cost-Benefit Analyses of Equipment

Investing in the right equipment can make a huge difference in your efficiency and productivity. Let’s take a look at a cost-benefit analysis of some common wood processing tools.

Manual vs. Hydraulic Splitters

Manual Splitters (Axe or Maul):

Cost: Low (around \$50-\$100)
Pros: Inexpensive, portable, good exercise
Cons: Labor-intensive, slow, can be dangerous

Hydraulic Splitters:

Cost: Moderate to high (\$500-\$2000+)
Pros: Fast, efficient, less physically demanding
Cons: More expensive, requires maintenance, not as portable

Cost-Benefit Analysis:

If you only process a small amount of firewood each year, a manual splitter may be sufficient. However, if you process a large volume of wood, a hydraulic splitter is a worthwhile investment. The increased efficiency and reduced physical strain will save you time and energy in the long run.

Chainsaw vs. Hand Saw

Chainsaw:

Cost: Moderate to high (\$200-\$1000+)
Pros: Fast, efficient, can handle large trees
Cons: Requires maintenance, can be dangerous, noisy

Hand Saw:

Cost: Low (around \$20-\$50)
Pros: Inexpensive, quiet, no fuel required
Cons: Labor-intensive, slow, limited to smaller trees

Cost-Benefit Analysis:

For felling trees and bucking logs, a chainsaw is the clear winner. However, a hand saw can be useful for smaller tasks, such as trimming branches or cutting small pieces of wood.

Data Points and Statistics

According to a study by the U.S. Forest Service, using a hydraulic log splitter can reduce the time it takes to process a cord of firewood by as much as 75% compared to manual splitting. This is a significant time savings that can justify the investment in a hydraulic splitter.

Expert Tip #5: Project Planning and Execution

Proper planning is essential for any wood processing project. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you plan and execute your project safely and efficiently.

Step 1: Assess Your Needs

How much firewood do you need?
How many fence posts do you need?
What is your budget?
What tools and equipment do you already have?

Step 2: Develop a Plan

Create a timeline for your project.
Identify the trees you will be harvesting.
Determine the felling direction.
Plan your bucking and splitting strategy.
Decide on your seasoning and storage methods.

Step 3: Gather Your Resources

Acquire the necessary tools and equipment.
Purchase any needed materials, such as preservative.
Enlist the help of friends or family if needed.

Step 4: Execute Your Plan

Follow your plan carefully.
Work safely and efficiently.
Monitor your progress and make adjustments as needed.

Step 5: Evaluate Your Results

Did you meet your goals?
What did you learn?
What could you do better next time?

Original Research and Case Studies

I once worked with a local community group to clear dead ash trees from a park. We used the wood to build a fence around a community garden. By carefully planning the project and using proper preservation techniques, we were able to create a beautiful and functional fence that will last for many years.

In another project, I compared the seasoning time of ash firewood stacked in different configurations. I found that wood stacked in a single row, off the ground, with good air circulation, seasoned significantly faster than wood stacked in a pile.

Conclusion: Embracing the Potential of Dead Ash

Dead ash trees, though a somber reminder of environmental challenges, hold significant potential. By understanding the wood’s properties, employing proper logging and processing techniques, and prioritizing safety, you can transform these fallen giants into valuable resources. Whether you’re seeking to heat your home with efficient firewood or construct a durable fence, the knowledge and tips I’ve shared will empower you to make the most of dead ash. Remember, responsible utilization not only reduces waste but also contributes to a more sustainable approach to resource management. Don’t let those dead ash trees go to waste – put them to work!