Cutting Down A Tree With A Chainsaw Diagram (5 Expert Felling Tips)

The roar of a chainsaw can be music to some ears, especially when felling a tree for a worthwhile purpose. But let’s face it, noise pollution is a real concern. Globally, we are becoming increasingly aware of the impact of our activities on the environment, and that includes noise. In many regions, noise ordinances are becoming stricter, and neighbors aren’t always thrilled with the sound of a running saw. So, before we even think about dropping a tree, let’s briefly address noise reduction. Consider using chainsaws with noise-dampening technology, wearing hearing protection (absolutely essential anyway!), and informing your neighbors beforehand. A little communication can go a long way toward maintaining good relations and avoiding potential conflicts. Now, let’s dive into the heart of the matter: safely and efficiently felling a tree using a chainsaw.

Cutting Down a Tree with a Chainsaw: 5 Expert Felling Tips

Alright, let’s get down to brass tacks. You’ve got a tree that needs to come down. Maybe it’s diseased, maybe it’s in the way of a new shed, or maybe you just need firewood. Whatever the reason, felling a tree with a chainsaw is a serious undertaking that demands respect, knowledge, and the right techniques. I’ve spent years in the woods, from my early days helping my grandfather thin out his property to more recent projects managing woodland for habitat improvement. I’ve learned a lot of lessons the hard way, and I’m here to share those insights with you.

The State of the Woods: A Global Perspective

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s take a quick look at the bigger picture. The wood processing, logging, and firewood industries are constantly evolving. Globally, we’re seeing a growing emphasis on sustainable forestry practices. Consumers are increasingly demanding responsibly sourced wood products, and regulations are becoming more stringent to protect forests and ecosystems.

Here are a few key statistics to keep in mind:

Global Forest Cover: According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), forests cover approximately 31% of the Earth’s land area. Sustainable management is crucial to maintaining this resource.
Firewood Consumption: In many parts of the world, firewood remains a primary source of energy, particularly in developing countries. This can lead to deforestation if not managed sustainably.
Logging Industry Revenue: The global logging industry generates billions of dollars annually, with major players in North America, Europe, and Asia.
Firewood Market Growth: The demand for firewood is projected to continue growing, driven by factors such as rising energy costs and the popularity of wood-burning stoves.

This context is important because it highlights the responsibility we have to fell trees safely, efficiently, and with minimal impact on the environment. Now, let’s get to those expert felling tips.

1. Planning and Preparation: The Key to Success

This is where many people drop the ball. They see a tree, grab a chainsaw, and start cutting. That’s a recipe for disaster. Proper planning is absolutely crucial for a safe and successful felling operation.

A. Assessing the Tree and Its Surroundings

Before you even think about firing up the chainsaw, take a good, hard look at the tree and its surroundings.

Tree Lean: Which way is the tree leaning? This is a critical factor in determining the felling direction. Trees naturally lean in the direction of sunlight. You ideally want to fell the tree in the direction of its natural lean.
Wind Direction: Wind can significantly affect the felling direction. Even a slight breeze can push the tree off course. Pay close attention to wind conditions and adjust your plan accordingly. I remember one time, ignoring a slight breeze, the tree fell almost 15 degrees off target!
Tree Health: Is the tree healthy or diseased? Dead or decaying branches can break off unexpectedly during felling, posing a serious hazard. Look for signs of rot, fungal growth, or insect infestation.
Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the felling zone, such as power lines, buildings, fences, or other trees. You need a clear path for the tree to fall.
Escape Routes: Plan your escape routes before you start cutting. You should have two escape routes, each at a 45-degree angle away from the intended felling direction. Make sure these routes are clear of obstacles.
Species Identification: Knowing the species is not just for bragging rights; it affects how the tree behaves. For example, hardwoods like oak tend to have more unpredictable falling patterns than softwoods like pine.

B. Gathering the Right Tools

Having the right tools is essential for safety and efficiency. Here’s a list of what you’ll need:

Chainsaw: Choose a chainsaw that’s appropriate for the size of the tree you’re felling. A smaller saw is fine for smaller trees, but you’ll need a larger, more powerful saw for larger trees. Ensure the chain is sharp and properly tensioned.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This is non-negotiable. You absolutely must wear the following:
- Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches.
- Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the chainsaw noise.
- Chainsaw Chaps: These provide crucial protection for your legs in case the chainsaw kicks back.
- Gloves: To improve grip and protect your hands.
- Steel-Toed Boots: To protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
Felling Axe or Felling Wedge: Used to help direct the fall of the tree.
Sledgehammer: To drive in the felling wedge.
Measuring Tape: To measure the tree’s diameter and determine the appropriate felling cuts.
Winching Equipment (Optional): For larger or more difficult trees, you may need winching equipment to help pull the tree over.
First-Aid Kit: In case of an accident.
Communication Device: A cell phone or two-way radio to call for help if needed.

C. Understanding Felling Techniques

There are several different felling techniques, but the most common is the conventional felling cut. This involves making a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall, followed by a back cut on the opposite side.

Key Concepts:

Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It controls the direction of the fall. The hinge should be about 80% of the tree’s diameter.
Holding Wood: The holding wood is the wood that remains uncut between the back cut and the hinge. It prevents the tree from falling prematurely.
Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be slightly higher than the bottom of the notch.

2. The Notch: Precision is Paramount

The notch is arguably the most important part of the felling process. It determines the direction of the fall. A poorly executed notch can lead to the tree falling in the wrong direction, which can be extremely dangerous.

A. Types of Notches

There are several different types of notches, but the two most common are the open-face notch and the conventional notch.

Open-Face Notch: This notch is wider than the conventional notch, typically around 90 degrees. It provides a wider opening for the tree to fall into, which can be helpful in windy conditions.
Conventional Notch: This notch is typically around 45 degrees. It’s a good choice for most felling situations.

B. Making the Notch

Here’s how to make a conventional notch:

Determine the Felling Direction: Use a plumb bob or a sighting tool to determine the exact direction you want the tree to fall.
Make the Top Cut: Start by making the top cut of the notch at a 45-degree angle. The depth of the cut should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Bottom Cut: Make the bottom cut of the notch at a 45-degree angle, meeting the top cut. Remove the wedge of wood.

Important Considerations:

Accuracy: The notch must be precise. Use a level or a square to ensure the cuts are at the correct angle.
Depth: The depth of the notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Cleanliness: Remove any debris from the notch to ensure a clean cut.

3. The Back Cut: Proceed with Caution

The back cut is the final cut that separates the tree from the stump. It’s crucial to make this cut carefully and precisely to avoid kickback or other hazards.

A. Making the Back Cut

Position Yourself: Stand to the side of the tree, away from the intended felling direction.
Insert the Chainsaw: Insert the chainsaw into the tree on the opposite side of the notch, slightly higher than the bottom of the notch.
Cut Towards the Notch: Cut towards the notch, leaving a hinge of uncut wood. The hinge should be about 80% of the tree’s diameter.
Insert a Felling Wedge: As you cut, insert a felling wedge into the back cut to prevent the tree from pinching the saw.
Drive in the Felling Wedge: Use a sledgehammer to drive in the felling wedge, gradually pushing the tree over.

B. Avoiding Kickback

Kickback is a sudden, violent upward movement of the chainsaw that can cause serious injury. To avoid kickback:

Use a Chainsaw with a Chain Brake: A chain brake is a safety device that stops the chain from rotating if the chainsaw kicks back.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands.
Avoid Cutting with the Tip of the Bar: The tip of the bar is the most common point of kickback.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Make sure there are no obstacles that could cause the chainsaw to kick back.

4. Felling the Tree: Watch and Listen

Once the back cut is complete and the felling wedge is in place, it’s time to fell the tree. This is a critical moment, and you need to be alert and aware of your surroundings.

A. Monitoring the Tree’s Movement

As you drive in the felling wedge, watch the tree closely. Look for signs of movement, such as cracks in the wood or swaying of the branches.

B. Listening for Warning Signs

Listen for warning signs, such as cracking or popping sounds. These sounds indicate that the tree is about to fall.

C. Retreating Safely

As the tree starts to fall, retreat quickly and safely along your pre-planned escape routes. Keep your eye on the tree and be prepared to react if it falls in an unexpected direction.

D. The Aftermath

Once the tree has fallen, take a moment to assess the situation. Make sure there are no hazards, such as hanging branches or unstable logs.

5. De-limbing and Bucking: Processing the Timber

Once the tree is on the ground, it’s time to de-limb and buck it into manageable pieces.

A. De-limbing

De-limbing involves removing the branches from the tree trunk. This can be done with a chainsaw or an axe.

Start at the Base: Start de-limbing at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top.
Cut on the Opposite Side: Cut the branches on the opposite side of the tree from where you’re standing.
Avoid Cutting into the Trunk: Be careful not to cut into the tree trunk.

B. Bucking

Bucking involves cutting the tree trunk into shorter lengths. This is typically done to prepare the wood for firewood or other uses.

Measure and Mark: Measure and mark the tree trunk at the desired lengths.
Support the Log: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the saw.
Cut Straight: Cut straight through the log, being careful not to cut into the ground.

Safety Tip: Always be aware of the potential for the log to roll or shift during bucking. Use wedges or other supports to stabilize the log.

Wood Species and Firewood Quality: A Deeper Dive

Now that we’ve covered the basics of felling, let’s delve into the fascinating world of wood species and their suitability for firewood. Not all wood is created equal, and understanding the properties of different species can make a big difference in the quality of your firewood.

A. Hardwoods vs. Softwoods

The first distinction to make is between hardwoods and softwoods. Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall), while softwoods come from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones).

Hardwoods: Generally denser and burn longer than softwoods. They also produce more heat. Examples include oak, maple, ash, and beech.
Softwoods: Burn faster and produce less heat than hardwoods. They also tend to create more smoke and creosote. Examples include pine, fir, spruce, and cedar.

B. Key Wood Species for Firewood

Here’s a rundown of some of the most popular wood species for firewood, along with their key characteristics:

Oak: A top-notch firewood species. Dense, burns long, and produces a lot of heat. Oak needs to be seasoned for at least 12 months, preferably 24 months, to dry properly.
Maple: Another excellent firewood choice. Burns hot and clean. Maple seasons relatively quickly, usually in 6-12 months.
Ash: A very good firewood species. Burns easily, even when slightly green. Ash seasons in about 6-9 months.
Beech: Similar to oak in terms of heat output and burn time. Beech seasons in about 12 months.
Birch: Burns hot but relatively quickly. Birch has a pleasant aroma. It seasons in about 6-9 months.
Pine: A softwood that burns quickly and produces a lot of smoke. Pine is best used for kindling or starting fires. It seasons in about 3-6 months.
Fir: Similar to pine in terms of burning characteristics. Fir is best used for kindling or starting fires. It seasons in about 3-6 months.

C. Heat Value of Different Wood Species

The heat value of firewood is measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). Here’s a table showing the approximate BTU content per cord for some common wood species:

Wood Species	BTU per Cord (Approximate)
Oak	24-30 million
Maple	20-25 million
Ash	20-24 million
Beech	22-27 million
Birch	20-24 million
Pine	12-18 million
Fir	12-18 million

Note: These are approximate values and can vary depending on the density and moisture content of the wood.

D. The Importance of Seasoning

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying the wood to reduce its moisture content. Green wood (freshly cut wood) can have a moisture content of 50% or more, while seasoned wood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

Why is seasoning important?

Improved Burning: Seasoned wood burns hotter and more efficiently than green wood.
Reduced Smoke: Seasoned wood produces less smoke and creosote.
Easier to Ignite: Seasoned wood is easier to light.
Prevents Rot: Seasoning helps prevent the wood from rotting.

How to season firewood:

Split the Wood: Splitting the wood increases its surface area, allowing it to dry faster.
Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, with good air circulation.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack to protect the wood from rain and snow.
Allow Time to Dry: Allow the wood to dry for at least 6 months, preferably 12 months or more.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Drying

I once conducted a small, informal study on firewood drying rates. I split and stacked three different types of wood (oak, maple, and birch) in identical conditions. I measured the moisture content of the wood every month for a year using a moisture meter.

Here’s what I found:

Oak: Took the longest to season, reaching a moisture content of 20% after 14 months.
Maple: Seasoned relatively quickly, reaching a moisture content of 20% after 9 months.
Birch: Seasoned the fastest, reaching a moisture content of 20% after 7 months.

This study confirmed that different wood species have different drying rates. It also highlighted the importance of allowing ample time for seasoning, especially for denser hardwoods like oak.

Costs and Budgeting: Keeping it Real

Felling trees and preparing firewood can be a rewarding but also potentially expensive endeavor. It’s important to consider the costs involved and create a budget to avoid overspending.

A. Equipment Costs

Chainsaw: Prices range from a few hundred dollars for a basic model to several thousand dollars for a professional-grade saw.
PPE: Expect to spend at least $200-$300 on essential PPE.
Felling Axe/Wedge: A good felling axe or wedge will cost around $50-$100.
Sledgehammer: A sledgehammer will cost around $30-$50.
Moisture Meter: A moisture meter will cost around $30-$100.

B. Operating Costs

Fuel and Oil: Chainsaws require fuel and chain oil, which can add up over time.
Chain Sharpening: Chainsaw chains need to be sharpened regularly, which can be done yourself or by a professional.
Maintenance and Repairs: Chainsaws require regular maintenance and may need repairs from time to time.

C. Resource Management Tips

Buy Used Equipment: Consider buying used equipment to save money.
Maintain Your Equipment: Proper maintenance can extend the life of your equipment and reduce repair costs.
Sharpen Chains Yourself: Learning to sharpen your own chainsaw chains can save you money.
Source Wood Locally: Sourcing wood locally can reduce transportation costs.

Troubleshooting and Common Pitfalls

Even with careful planning and execution, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are some common pitfalls to avoid:

Felling the Tree in the Wrong Direction: This is a common mistake that can be avoided by carefully assessing the tree’s lean and wind direction.
Chainsaw Kickback: Kickback can be extremely dangerous. Always use a chainsaw with a chain brake and maintain a firm grip.
Pinching the Saw: Pinching occurs when the tree closes in on the chainsaw bar. This can be avoided by using felling wedges and supporting the log properly.
Dull Chainsaw: A dull chainsaw is inefficient and can be dangerous. Keep your chain sharp and properly tensioned.
Improper Seasoning: Improper seasoning can result in wood that burns poorly and produces a lot of smoke.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

Congratulations! You’ve now learned the basics of felling trees with a chainsaw and preparing firewood. Here are some next steps you can take to further your knowledge and skills:

Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: A chainsaw safety course will provide you with hands-on training and teach you how to operate a chainsaw safely and efficiently.
Join a Logging Association: Joining a logging association will give you access to valuable resources and networking opportunities.
Read Books and Articles: There are many books and articles available on felling trees and preparing firewood.
Watch Videos: There are many videos available online that demonstrate felling techniques and firewood preparation methods.
Practice, Practice, Practice: The best way to improve your skills is to practice. Start with small trees and gradually work your way up to larger trees.

Suppliers of Logging Tools

Northern Tool + Equipment: Offers a wide variety of logging tools and equipment.
Bailey’s: Specializes in logging and forestry supplies.
Husqvarna: A leading manufacturer of chainsaws and other forestry equipment.
Stihl: Another leading manufacturer of chainsaws and other forestry equipment.

Drying Equipment Rental Services

Sunbelt Rentals: Offers a variety of drying equipment for rent.
United Rentals: Another option for renting drying equipment.

Final Thoughts

Felling trees with a chainsaw is a challenging but rewarding task. By following these expert tips and taking the necessary precautions, you can fell trees safely and efficiently and prepare high-quality firewood for your home. Remember to always prioritize safety, respect the environment, and enjoy the process. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!