Cutting Chainsaw Tips (5 Expert Hacks For Perfect Wood Cuts)

I’ve spent years in the forest, working with wood in all its forms – from felling towering trees to splitting logs for a cozy winter fire. The durability of a well-cut piece of wood, whether for construction or heating, hinges on the precision and skill applied during the cutting process. A poorly cut log can lead to wasted material, structural weakness, and even safety hazards. That’s why mastering chainsaw techniques is absolutely crucial. In this guide, I’m going to share five expert hacks that I’ve learned over the years to help you achieve perfect wood cuts every time. These aren’t just theoretical tips; they’re practical strategies honed from real-world experience.

Cutting Chainsaw Tips (5 Expert Hacks for Perfect Wood Cuts)

Hack #1: Mastering the Bore Cut: The Key to Felling Control and Preventing Pinching

The bore cut is, in my opinion, one of the most underutilized yet powerful chainsaw techniques. It’s especially useful when felling trees or bucking large logs where pinching is a major concern. Pinching occurs when the weight of the wood closes the cut, trapping the chainsaw bar. This can be frustrating, time-consuming, and potentially dangerous. The bore cut allows you to create a controlled cut from within the log, minimizing the risk of pinching and giving you greater control over the direction of the fall.

What is a Bore Cut?

A bore cut involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the wood, using the lower quadrant of the bar’s tip to slowly bore a hole through the log. Instead of starting from the outside edge like a traditional cut, you’re essentially creating a pocket within the wood itself.

Why is it so effective?

Reduces Pinching: By creating an internal cut, you relieve the pressure on the bar, preventing the wood from closing in and pinching.
Improved Felling Control: You can strategically position the bore cut to influence the direction of the fall, especially useful in challenging terrain.
Safer Bucking: When bucking (cutting a felled tree into smaller logs), bore cuts allow you to relieve tension within the log before making the final cut, preventing kickback and ensuring a cleaner, safer cut.

Step-by-Step Guide to Performing a Bore Cut:

Stance and Safety: Ensure you have a firm, stable stance. Wear all necessary safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chaps. Clear the area around you of any obstacles.
Initiating the Cut: Position the chainsaw so the bottom quadrant of the bar tip is against the wood. Make sure the chain brake is disengaged.
Controlled Plunge: With the chain running at full throttle, slowly and deliberately plunge the bar tip into the wood at a slight angle. Use the bumper spikes (also known as felling dogs) to pivot and control the depth of the plunge.
Creating the Pocket: Once the bar is fully embedded, carefully move the bar back and forth to create a small pocket or cavity within the wood.
Completing the Cut: From within the pocket, you can now make your desired cut. For felling, this might involve creating a hinge (holding wood) to control the fall. For bucking, you can relieve tension by cutting from the pocket towards the top of the log before finishing the cut from the bottom.

My Personal Experience and Case Study:

I remember one particularly challenging felling job in the Pacific Northwest. I was dealing with a large, leaning Douglas Fir on a steep slope. A traditional felling cut would have been extremely risky due to the tree’s lean and the uneven terrain. I opted for a bore cut to create a precise hinge and control the direction of the fall.

I carefully positioned the bore cut, leaving a thicker hinge on the side I wanted the tree to fall towards. As I completed the back cut from within the bore cut pocket, the tree fell exactly where I intended, avoiding a potentially dangerous situation. Without the bore cut, I’m certain the tree would have fallen unpredictably, possibly causing damage or injury.

Tool Specifications and Considerations:

Chainsaw Size: A chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the diameter of the wood is essential. For larger trees, I recommend a professional-grade chainsaw with a bar length of at least 20 inches. My go-to chainsaw for felling is a Stihl MS 462 R C-M with a 25-inch bar.
Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is crucial for a clean and efficient bore cut. Dull chains are more likely to bind and increase the risk of kickback. I sharpen my chains after every tank of gas to maintain optimal performance.
Wood Type: Bore cuts are effective on both hardwood and softwood. However, be extra cautious when working with hardwoods, as they tend to be denser and require more force to bore.

Strategic Advantages and Cost Considerations:

Reduced Material Waste: By preventing pinching and ensuring accurate cuts, bore cuts minimize waste and maximize the usable wood from each log.
Increased Productivity: While it might seem slower initially, the bore cut ultimately saves time by preventing chainsaw jams and allowing for more controlled felling and bucking.
Cost Savings: By reducing the risk of chainsaw damage and injuries, bore cuts can lead to significant cost savings in the long run.

Safety Note: The bore cut is an advanced technique. Practice on smaller logs before attempting it on larger trees. Always be aware of the potential for kickback and take necessary precautions.

Hack #2: The Importance of Chain Maintenance: Sharpening, Tensioning, and Lubrication

A chainsaw is only as good as its chain. Neglecting chain maintenance is like trying to drive a car with flat tires – it’s inefficient, dangerous, and ultimately leads to poor results. Regular chain maintenance, including sharpening, tensioning, and lubrication, is essential for achieving perfect wood cuts and extending the life of your chainsaw.

Sharpening:

A sharp chain is the cornerstone of efficient and safe chainsaw operation. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on the chainsaw engine.

Frequency: I sharpen my chain after every tank of gas, or more frequently if I’m cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
Tools: I use a chainsaw file and a filing guide to ensure consistent and accurate sharpening angles. The file size depends on the chain pitch (the distance between the chain rivets). For my Stihl MS 462 R C-M, I use a 7/32″ file.
Technique: File each tooth consistently, maintaining the original cutting angle and depth. Pay attention to the raker (depth gauge) height and file it down as needed to maintain optimal cutting performance.

Tensioning:

Proper chain tension is crucial for smooth and safe cutting. A loose chain can derail, causing damage to the chainsaw and potentially injuring the operator. A chain that is too tight can overheat, wear out prematurely, and even break.

Checking Tension: With the chainsaw turned off, lift the chain in the middle of the bar. The chain should pull away from the bar slightly, but not so much that the drive links come out of the bar groove.
Adjusting Tension: Most chainsaws have a tensioning screw or knob located on the side of the saw. Use a screwdriver or the appropriate tool to adjust the tension until it is correct.

Lubrication:

The chain needs constant lubrication to reduce friction and prevent overheating. Without proper lubrication, the chain and bar will wear out quickly, and the chainsaw engine will be subjected to increased strain.

Chain Oil: Use a high-quality chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage the chainsaw.
Oil Level: Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. Most chainsaws have an automatic oiler that dispenses oil onto the chain as it rotates.
Oiler Function: Ensure the oiler is functioning properly. If the chain is not receiving enough oil, it will become hot and smoky.

My Personal Experience and Case Study:

I once had a job cutting firewood where I neglected to sharpen my chain regularly. The wood was particularly knotty and abrasive, and the chain quickly became dull. As a result, I was struggling to make clean cuts, and the chainsaw was overheating.

I finally stopped and took the time to sharpen the chain. The difference was immediately noticeable. The chainsaw cut through the wood effortlessly, and the engine ran much cooler. I realized that neglecting chain maintenance was not only costing me time and energy, but it was also putting unnecessary wear and tear on my chainsaw.

Tool Specifications and Considerations:

Chainsaw File: Choose a file size that matches the chain pitch. A file guide helps maintain the correct sharpening angle.
Chain Oil: Use a high-quality chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. I prefer a vegetable-based oil, as it is more environmentally friendly.
Chain Tensioning Tool: Use the appropriate tool for adjusting the chain tension.

Strategic Advantages and Cost Considerations:

Increased Efficiency: A sharp, properly tensioned, and lubricated chain cuts faster and more efficiently, saving you time and energy.
Extended Chainsaw Life: Regular chain maintenance reduces wear and tear on the chainsaw engine, extending its lifespan.
Reduced Repair Costs: A well-maintained chain is less likely to break or damage the chainsaw bar, reducing repair costs.
Improved Safety: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back, reducing the risk of injury.

Safety Note: Always wear gloves when sharpening a chainsaw chain. Be careful not to over-sharpen the teeth, as this can weaken them.

Hack #3: Understanding Wood Types and Their Impact on Cutting Techniques

Not all wood is created equal. The type of wood you’re cutting – whether it’s green wood, seasoned wood, hardwood, or softwood – significantly impacts the cutting techniques you should employ. Understanding these differences is crucial for achieving clean, efficient, and safe cuts.

Key Wood Characteristics:

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut and contains a high moisture content. It’s generally easier to cut than seasoned wood, but it’s also heavier and more prone to warping and shrinking as it dries. Seasoned wood has been dried, reducing its moisture content. It’s harder to cut but more stable and less prone to warping.
Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves annually), while softwoods come from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones). Hardwoods are generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. Examples of hardwoods include oak, maple, and birch. Examples of softwoods include pine, fir, and spruce.
Grain Pattern: The grain pattern of the wood also affects cutting. Wood with straight grain is easier to split and cut than wood with twisted or knotted grain.

Impact on Cutting Techniques:

Green Wood: When cutting green wood, use a sharp chain and avoid forcing the saw. The high moisture content can cause the chain to bind. Consider using a wider kerf (the width of the cut) to prevent pinching.
Seasoned Wood: Seasoned wood requires a sharper chain and more force to cut. Be careful to avoid overheating the chain.
Hardwood: Hardwoods require a chainsaw with a powerful engine and a sharp chain. Use a slow, steady cutting speed to avoid damaging the chain.
Softwood: Softwoods are generally easier to cut than hardwoods. Use a faster cutting speed and be careful to avoid splintering.

My Personal Experience and Case Study:

I once had a project building a timber frame structure using green oak. Oak is a very dense and strong hardwood, and when it’s green, it’s even more challenging to work with. I quickly learned that my usual chainsaw techniques weren’t cutting it (pun intended!).

I had to adjust my approach significantly. I used a larger chainsaw with a more powerful engine, and I made sure to keep the chain razor sharp. I also had to be very careful to avoid pinching, as the green oak was prone to closing in on the bar.

To overcome this, I used a combination of bore cuts and wedges to keep the cut open. I also learned to anticipate the wood’s movement and adjust my cutting technique accordingly. It was a challenging project, but I learned a great deal about the importance of understanding wood types and their impact on cutting techniques.

Tool Specifications and Considerations:

Chainsaw Power: Choose a chainsaw with sufficient power for the type of wood you’re cutting. For hardwoods, I recommend a chainsaw with an engine displacement of at least 50cc.
Chain Type: Use a chain designed for the type of wood you’re cutting. Some chains are designed for hardwoods, while others are designed for softwoods.
Wedges: Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent pinching, especially when cutting green wood or hardwoods.

Strategic Advantages and Cost Considerations:

Improved Cutting Efficiency: Understanding wood types allows you to choose the right tools and techniques for the job, improving cutting efficiency.
Reduced Chainsaw Wear and Tear: Using the appropriate cutting techniques reduces wear and tear on the chainsaw, extending its lifespan.
Improved Safety: Understanding wood types helps you anticipate potential hazards, such as pinching and splintering, improving safety.
Higher Quality Results: Using the right techniques results in cleaner, more accurate cuts, leading to higher quality results.

Safety Note: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection and gloves, when cutting wood. Be aware of the potential for kickback and take necessary precautions.

Hack #4: Mastering Felling Techniques: The Notch, Hinge, and Back Cut

Felling a tree is a complex and potentially dangerous task that requires careful planning and execution. Mastering the proper felling techniques, including the notch, hinge, and back cut, is essential for ensuring a safe and controlled fall.

Key Felling Concepts:

The Notch (Face Cut): The notch is a wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. It determines the direction of the fall and helps prevent the tree from kicking back.
The Hinge (Holding Wood): The hinge is a strip of uncut wood left between the notch and the back cut. It controls the fall of the tree and prevents it from twisting or spinning.
The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It severs the remaining wood and allows the tree to fall.

Step-by-Step Felling Procedure:

Planning: Assess the tree and the surrounding area. Identify any hazards, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees. Determine the direction of the lean and the desired direction of fall.
The Notch: Cut the notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. I prefer to use the open face notch.
The Hinge: Leave a hinge of uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
The Back Cut: Make the back cut on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. The back cut should be slightly higher than the notch.
The Fall: As the tree begins to fall, move away from the base of the tree at a 45-degree angle. Watch for falling branches.

My Personal Experience and Case Study:

I was once part of a team felling trees in a densely forested area. One of the trees was leaning heavily towards a nearby road. A mistake could have had serious consequences.

We carefully planned the felling operation, taking into account the tree’s lean, the wind direction, and the proximity of the road. We used a combination of bore cuts and wedges to control the fall of the tree.

The felling operation went smoothly, and the tree fell exactly where we wanted it to. It was a testament to the importance of careful planning and proper felling techniques.

Tool Specifications and Considerations:

Felling Axe or Wedge: Use a felling axe or wedge to help guide the tree’s fall.
Chainsaw with Appropriate Bar Length: Use a chainsaw with a bar length that is at least as long as the tree’s diameter.
Measuring Tape: Use a measuring tape to accurately measure the notch and hinge.

Strategic Advantages and Cost Considerations:

Improved Safety: Proper felling techniques significantly reduce the risk of accidents and injuries.
Controlled Fall: Mastering felling techniques allows you to control the direction of the fall, minimizing damage to surrounding property.
Increased Efficiency: A well-planned and executed felling operation is more efficient, saving you time and energy.

Safety Note: Felling trees is a dangerous activity. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, and hearing protection. If you are not experienced in felling trees, seek professional assistance.

Hack #5: Optimizing Bucking Techniques: Tension Relief and Log Positioning

Bucking, or cutting a felled tree into smaller logs, is an essential part of wood processing and firewood preparation. Optimizing your bucking techniques can significantly improve your efficiency, reduce strain on your body, and minimize the risk of chainsaw pinching and kickback.

Key Bucking Concepts:

Tension Relief: Understanding the tension within a log is crucial for safe and efficient bucking. Logs under compression will pinch the saw, while logs under tension can spring open unexpectedly.
Log Positioning: Positioning the log correctly can make bucking easier and safer. Elevating the log on supports or using wedges can help relieve tension and prevent pinching.

Bucking Techniques Based on Log Position:

Log Supported at Both Ends: In this scenario, the top of the log is under tension, and the bottom is under compression. Cut one-third of the way down from the top to relieve the tension. Then, cut the remaining two-thirds from the bottom to avoid pinching.
Log Supported at One End: The top of the log is under compression, and the bottom is under tension. Cut one-third of the way up from the bottom to relieve the tension. Then, cut the remaining two-thirds from the top to avoid pinching.
Log Supported in the Middle: Both the top and bottom of the log are under tension. Make a series of shallow cuts on the top and bottom to relieve the tension before making the final cut.

My Personal Experience and Case Study:

I was once bucking a large log that was supported at both ends. I started cutting from the top, and the saw immediately pinched. I struggled to free the saw, and I realized that I had made a mistake.

I repositioned the log so that it was supported at one end. I then cut one-third of the way up from the bottom to relieve the tension. When I cut the remaining two-thirds from the top, the saw cut through the log smoothly and easily.

I learned a valuable lesson about the importance of understanding tension and log positioning.

Tool Specifications and Considerations:

Log Supports: Use log supports to elevate the log and make bucking easier and safer. I use a combination of sawhorses and log jacks.
Wedges: Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent pinching.
Chainsaw with Appropriate Bar Length: Use a chainsaw with a bar length that is appropriate for the diameter of the log.

Strategic Advantages and Cost Considerations:

Improved Efficiency: Optimizing bucking techniques can significantly improve your efficiency, saving you time and energy.
Reduced Strain: Proper bucking techniques reduce strain on your body, preventing injuries.
Improved Safety: Understanding tension and log positioning reduces the risk of chainsaw pinching and kickback, improving safety.

Safety Note: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection and gloves, when bucking logs. Be aware of the potential for kickback and take necessary precautions.

By mastering these five expert hacks, you’ll be well on your way to achieving perfect wood cuts every time. Remember, practice makes perfect. Start with smaller projects and gradually work your way up to more challenging tasks. Always prioritize safety and never hesitate to seek professional assistance if you’re unsure about any aspect of wood processing or firewood preparation. Now, get out there and start cutting!

Cutting Chainsaw Tips (5 Expert Hacks for Perfect Wood Cuts)