Cut Tree to Fall Certain Way (Expert Notching & Direction Tips)

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Mastering the Art of Precision Tree Felling: Expert Notching and Directional Control

Noise reduction is paramount when working with chainsaws and in woodland environments. Before I dive into the intricacies of precision tree felling, I want to emphasize the importance of hearing protection. Prolonged exposure to chainsaw noise can lead to irreversible hearing damage. Invest in high-quality earmuffs or noise-canceling headphones specifically designed for forestry work. Look for models with a Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) of 25 dB or higher. Beyond protecting your hearing, being mindful of noise pollution also respects the environment and surrounding communities. Schedule work during reasonable hours and consider using electric chainsaws when feasible, as they produce significantly less noise.

Why Directional Felling Matters

Directional felling is more than just cutting down a tree; it’s about controlling where that tree lands. This control is vital for:

• Safety: Ensuring the tree falls away from people, buildings, power lines, and other hazards.
• Minimizing Damage: Preventing damage to other trees, undergrowth, fences, and structures.
• Efficient Timber Harvesting: Positioning the felled tree for easy access and efficient processing.
• Optimizing Wood Utilization: Reducing the risk of the tree landing in a way that causes breakage or waste.

Key Terminology: Understanding the Language of Felling

Before we delve into the techniques, let’s define some essential terms:

• Felling: The act of cutting down a tree.
• Notch (or Face Cut): A wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree in the direction of the desired fall. It dictates the initial direction of the fall.
• Back Cut: A cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall.
• Hinge: The uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It acts as a pivot point and guides the tree’s fall. Its width and thickness are critical for directional control.
• Holding Wood: The portion of the hinge that prevents the tree from prematurely falling backward.
• Lean: The natural inclination of the tree. This can be a major factor in determining the felling direction.
• Side Lean: The lean of the tree to the left or right.
• Back Lean: The lean of the tree away from the intended felling direction. This is the most dangerous type of lean.
• Barber Chairing: A dangerous situation where the tree splits vertically up the trunk during the back cut.
• Kickback: The sudden and forceful upward or backward movement of the chainsaw, often caused by the chain nose contacting a solid object.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It’s heavier and more difficult to split than seasoned wood.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce its moisture content. It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns more efficiently.

The Science of Directional Felling: Forces and Control

Understanding the forces at play during felling is crucial for achieving precise control. Gravity, the tree’s weight distribution, and the hinge’s resistance all interact to determine the tree’s trajectory.

The notch acts as a hinge point, concentrating the tree’s weight forward. The back cut weakens the tree’s structure, allowing gravity to overcome the remaining wood fibers. The hinge then guides the tree’s fall like a rudder.

The key to directional control lies in manipulating the hinge. By adjusting the notch angle, depth, and back cut placement, I can influence the tree’s path. A wider notch encourages a wider fall arc, while a narrower notch provides more precise control.

Step-by-Step Guide to Precision Tree Felling

Now, let’s get to the practical steps. I’ll outline the process in detail, covering everything from planning to execution.

1. Planning and Assessment

Before even starting the chainsaw, a thorough assessment of the tree and its surroundings is essential.

• Inspect the Tree: Look for signs of disease, decay, or structural weakness. Check for dead limbs that could fall unexpectedly.
• Assess the Lean: Determine the tree’s natural lean. Is it leaning in the desired direction, or will you need to compensate?
• Identify Hazards: Look for power lines, buildings, roads, fences, and other obstacles.
• Plan Escape Routes: Identify two clear escape routes, each at a 45-degree angle away from the intended felling direction.
• Check the Weather: Wind can significantly affect the tree’s fall. Avoid felling in high winds.
• Clear the Area: Remove any brush, debris, or obstacles that could impede your movement.
• Inform Others: Make sure anyone in the vicinity is aware of your intentions and stays clear of the area.

My Personal Experience: I once encountered a seemingly healthy oak tree that concealed extensive internal rot. During the back cut, the tree unexpectedly twisted and fell in a completely different direction than planned. Thankfully, I had cleared the area and followed my escape route, avoiding serious injury. This experience taught me the critical importance of thorough tree inspection.

2. Selecting the Right Tools

Using the right tools is paramount for safety and efficiency. Here’s a list of essential equipment:

• Chainsaw: Choose a chainsaw appropriate for the size of the tree. A 16-20 inch bar is suitable for most trees under 24 inches in diameter. For larger trees, you’ll need a longer bar and a more powerful saw. I personally prefer Stihl and Husqvarna chainsaws for their reliability and performance. My go-to saw for most felling operations is a Stihl MS 261 C-M with an 18-inch bar.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This includes:
  • Helmet: A hard hat with a face shield and ear protection is non-negotiable.
  • Eye Protection: Even with a face shield, wear safety glasses or goggles.
  • Hearing Protection: Earmuffs or noise-canceling headphones.
  • Chainsaw Chaps: These protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
  • Gloves: Provide a good grip and protect your hands.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling objects.
• Felling Axe or Wedge: Used to help direct the fall of the tree, especially when dealing with back lean. I prefer a felling axe with a 3.5 lb head for driving wedges.
• Wedges: Plastic or aluminum wedges are used to prevent the tree from pinching the saw bar during the back cut and to help direct the fall. I carry a variety of sizes, typically ranging from 5.5 inch to 10 inch.
• Measuring Tape: To accurately measure the tree’s diameter and determine the appropriate notch depth.
• Felling Lever or Peavey: Used to help roll or move logs. A felling lever is particularly useful for small to medium-sized trees.
• First Aid Kit: A well-stocked first aid kit is essential for treating minor injuries.
• Communication Device: A cell phone or two-way radio for emergencies.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw Bar Length: Choose a bar length that is at least 2 inches longer than the diameter of the tree you’re felling.
• Wedge Material: Plastic wedges are lighter and less likely to damage the saw chain, while aluminum wedges are more durable and can withstand greater force.
• Felling Axe Weight: A heavier axe is more effective for driving wedges, but it can also be more tiring to use.

3. The Notch (Face Cut): The Key to Directional Control

The notch is arguably the most critical part of the felling process. It determines the initial direction of the fall and creates a hinge point for control. There are several types of notches, but the most common are the open-face notch and the conventional notch. I personally prefer the open-face notch for its superior visibility and wider hinge.

• Open-Face Notch (Preferred):

  • Angle: Forms a 70-90 degree angle.
  • Depth: Should be approximately 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
  • Advantages: Provides a wider hinge for better control, excellent visibility during the back cut.

• Conventional Notch (Less Preferred):

  • Angle: Forms a 45-degree angle.
  • Depth: Should be approximately 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
  • Advantages: Simpler to cut, but offers less visibility and control.

How to Cut the Open-Face Notch:

1. Establish the Felling Line: Visualize the direction you want the tree to fall and mark a line on the tree trunk.
2. Cut the Top Angle: Start by making the top cut of the notch at the desired angle. Ensure the cut is clean and precise.
3. Cut the Bottom Angle: Make the bottom cut of the notch, meeting the top cut at the desired depth.
4. Remove the Wedge: Carefully remove the wedge of wood created by the notch.

Important Considerations for the Notch:

• Accuracy: The notch must be cut accurately in the direction you want the tree to fall. Even a slight deviation can affect the tree’s trajectory.
• Depth: The notch must be deep enough to create a sufficient hinge point. Too shallow, and the tree may not fall in the desired direction. Too deep, and the hinge may be too weak.
• Cleanliness: The notch should be clean and free of debris. This ensures a smooth and predictable fall.

Case Study: I once had to fell a large pine tree near a property line. The tree had a slight back lean, making the felling direction critical. I used an open-face notch with a slightly deeper bottom cut to compensate for the lean. This ensured the tree fell precisely in the desired direction, away from the property line.

4. The Back Cut: Releasing the Tree’s Potential Energy

The back cut is the final cut that releases the tree’s potential energy and allows it to fall. It’s crucial to leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the fall.

• Placement: The back cut should be made slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch, leaving a hinge of approximately 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
• Technique: Start the back cut slowly and carefully, ensuring the saw is running smoothly. Maintain a consistent cutting speed and avoid plunging the saw too deeply.
• Wedges: As you make the back cut, insert wedges into the cut to prevent the tree from pinching the saw bar and to help direct the fall.
• Listen for Sounds: Pay attention to the sounds the tree is making. Cracking or popping sounds indicate that the tree is starting to fall.
• Escape Route: Be prepared to retreat along your escape route as the tree begins to fall.

Important Considerations for the Back Cut:

• Hinge Width: The hinge should be wide enough to provide sufficient control but not so wide that it prevents the tree from falling.
• Hinge Thickness: The hinge should be thick enough to withstand the forces of the fall but not so thick that it causes the tree to barber chair.
• Barber Chairing Prevention: To prevent barber chairing, avoid cutting too deeply into the tree during the back cut. Use wedges to support the tree’s weight and prevent it from splitting.
• Holding Wood: In some situations, particularly when dealing with trees with a strong back lean, it may be necessary to leave a small amount of holding wood to prevent the tree from falling backward prematurely. This holding wood should be cut last, just before the tree is ready to fall.

My Safety Tip: Always keep the chainsaw chain sharp. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and other accidents. I sharpen my chainsaw chain after every tank of gas or whenever I notice a decrease in cutting performance.

5. Felling Techniques for Challenging Situations

While the basic principles of felling remain the same, certain situations require specialized techniques.

• Trees with a Back Lean: Felling trees with a back lean is one of the most dangerous situations in forestry. To safely fell a tree with a back lean, you’ll need to use wedges and possibly a felling lever or winch.
  • Wedges: Drive wedges into the back cut to lift the tree forward and counteract the back lean.
  • Felling Lever: Use a felling lever to apply additional force to the tree and help it fall in the desired direction.
  • Winch: In extreme cases, a winch may be necessary to pull the tree over.
• Trees with a Side Lean: Felling trees with a side lean is generally less dangerous than felling trees with a back lean, but it still requires careful planning and execution.
  • Notch Placement: Place the notch slightly towards the side of the lean to encourage the tree to fall in that direction.
  • Back Cut: Make the back cut slightly higher on the side of the lean to create more leverage.
• Trees with Uneven Weight Distribution: Trees with uneven weight distribution, such as those with large branches on one side, can be unpredictable.
  • Assess the Weight Distribution: Carefully assess the tree’s weight distribution before making any cuts.
  • Compensate with the Notch and Back Cut: Adjust the notch and back cut to compensate for the uneven weight distribution.
• Windy Conditions: Avoid felling trees in high winds. Wind can significantly affect the tree’s fall and make it difficult to control.
  • Postpone Felling: If possible, postpone felling until the wind subsides.
  • Assess Wind Direction: If you must fell in windy conditions, carefully assess the wind direction and adjust your felling plan accordingly.

6. Post-Felling Procedures: Safety and Efficiency

Once the tree is on the ground, the work isn’t quite finished. It’s important to follow proper post-felling procedures to ensure safety and efficiency.

• Assess the Situation: Take a moment to assess the situation and ensure that the tree has fallen safely and predictably.
• De-limb the Tree: Remove the branches from the tree trunk using a chainsaw or axe.
• Buck the Tree: Cut the tree trunk into manageable lengths for transport or processing.
• Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a safe and organized manner, allowing for proper air circulation.
• Clean Up the Area: Remove any debris or obstacles from the area.

7. Wood Processing and Firewood Preparation

After felling and bucking the tree, the next step is to process the wood for its intended use. If you’re preparing firewood, this involves splitting, stacking, and drying the wood.

• Splitting Firewood: Splitting firewood can be done manually with an axe or maul, or with a hydraulic log splitter.
  • Manual Splitting: Use a splitting axe or maul to split the wood along its natural grain. Aim for pieces that are approximately 6-8 inches in diameter.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is a much faster and easier way to split firewood, especially for larger logs. Look for a splitter with at least 20 tons of splitting force. I use a 25-ton hydraulic log splitter, which significantly reduces the physical strain and increases my efficiency.
• Stacking Firewood: Stack the firewood in a way that allows for good air circulation. This will help the wood dry more quickly.
  • Elevated Stacks: Stack the wood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground.
  • Criss-Cross Stacking: Criss-cross stacking the wood at the ends of the stack will help to stabilize it.
  • Spacing: Leave some space between the rows of wood to allow for air circulation.
• Drying Firewood: Drying firewood is essential for efficient burning. Green wood has a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to light and burns inefficiently.
  • Seasoning Time: Allow the firewood to season for at least 6-12 months before burning it.
  • Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%. You can use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood.
  • Storage: Store the firewood in a dry, well-ventilated area.

Data and Insights:

• Drying Time: The drying time for firewood varies depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Hardwoods like oak and maple take longer to dry than softwoods like pine and fir. In general, allow at least 6 months for hardwoods and 3 months for softwoods.
• Moisture Content Targets: Aim for a moisture content of 15-20% for optimal burning.
• Stacking Efficiency: Properly stacked firewood dries up to 50% faster than unstacked wood.

8. Safety Considerations: A Constant Vigil

Safety is paramount in all aspects of tree felling and wood processing. Always prioritize safety and never take unnecessary risks.

• Wear PPE: Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
• Maintain Your Equipment: Keep your chainsaw and other tools in good working order. Sharpen your chainsaw chain regularly and inspect your equipment for damage before each use.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of potential hazards, such as power lines, buildings, and other trees.
• Plan Your Escape Routes: Always have two clear escape routes planned before starting to fell a tree.
• Work with a Partner: Whenever possible, work with a partner. This provides an extra set of eyes and ears and can be invaluable in case of an emergency.
• Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue. Fatigue can impair your judgment and increase the risk of accidents.
• Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to fell trees that are too large or too difficult for your skill level.
• First Aid Training: Consider taking a first aid and CPR course. This will prepare you to handle minor injuries and emergencies.

Statistics:

• According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 30,000 injuries each year.
• Most chainsaw injuries occur to the legs and hands.
• Wearing appropriate PPE can significantly reduce the risk of chainsaw injuries.

9. Strategic Advantages of Efficient Wood Processing

Beyond the immediate benefits of having firewood or timber, efficient wood processing offers several strategic advantages:

• Cost Savings: Producing your own firewood can save you a significant amount of money compared to buying it.
• Self-Sufficiency: Processing your own wood provides a sense of self-sufficiency and independence.
• Environmental Benefits: Using firewood as a heating source can be more environmentally friendly than using fossil fuels, especially if the wood is harvested sustainably.
• Exercise: Wood processing is a great form of exercise.
• Community Building: Sharing firewood with neighbors or friends can build community and foster goodwill.

10. Final Thoughts and Next Steps

Mastering the art of precision tree felling takes time, practice, and a commitment to safety. By understanding the principles of directional control, using the right tools, and following proper techniques, you can safely and efficiently fell trees in a predetermined direction.

Next Steps:

• Practice: Start with small trees in a safe and controlled environment.
• Seek Guidance: Consult with experienced loggers or arborists for guidance and mentorship.
• Take a Course: Consider taking a formal tree felling course.
• Stay Informed: Keep up-to-date on the latest safety standards and techniques.

Remember, tree felling is a dangerous activity. Always prioritize safety and never take unnecessary risks. With proper training, experience, and a healthy respect for the power of trees, you can become a skilled and responsible tree feller.

This detailed guide should provide you with a solid foundation for understanding and practicing precision tree felling. Good luck, and stay safe!

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