Cut Down Tree With Chainsaw: Cutting Wide Trunks Safely (Pro Tips)

Ever watched a lumberjack effortlessly drop a giant tree and thought, “I could do that!”? Well, maybe. But tackling a wide trunk with a chainsaw is more than just pointing and pulling. It’s a blend of physics, finesse, and a healthy respect for gravity. I’ve spent years felling trees, from saplings barely bigger than my wrist to behemoths that made my knees wobble. I’ve learned that confidence without competence is a recipe for disaster. This guide isn’t just about how to cut down a tree; it’s about doing it safely, efficiently, and with the knowledge to handle whatever the woods throw at you. We’ll cover everything from assessing the tree to the final cleanup, ensuring you’re equipped to handle those wide trunks like a seasoned pro.

Cutting Down Tree with Chainsaw: Cutting Wide Trunks Safely (Pro Tips)

Understanding the Challenge of Wide Trunks

Cutting down a large tree isn’t just scaling up the process of felling a small one. The physics change significantly. A wide trunk has more weight, creating immense forces as it falls. Misjudging the lean, wind, or internal stresses can lead to the tree falling in an unexpected direction, pinching your saw, or even kicking back violently.

Key Terms:

Green Wood: Wood that hasn’t been dried, containing high moisture content. It’s heavier, harder to split, and more prone to rot if not dried properly.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been air-dried or kiln-dried to reduce its moisture content. It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns more efficiently.
Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw.
Hinge: The uncut wood left during felling, controlling the direction of the fall.
Bar Oil: Special oil used to lubricate the chainsaw bar and chain, preventing overheating and wear.

Step 1: Assessing the Tree and the Surroundings

Before even starting your chainsaw, take a good look at the tree and its environment. This is the most crucial step, and rushing it can have serious consequences.

1. Tree Inspection:

Lean: Does the tree have a natural lean? Trees naturally lean towards the sun or away from prevailing winds. This lean will influence its direction of fall. I once misjudged a subtle lean in a seemingly straight tree, and it ended up falling several degrees off my intended direction, narrowly missing my truck.
Dead or Broken Branches (Widowmakers): Look for any dead or broken branches hanging in the canopy. These can fall unexpectedly during the felling process, posing a significant hazard.
Rot or Decay: Inspect the trunk for signs of rot or decay, especially near the base. A rotten tree is unpredictable and can break apart during felling. Use an axe to chop into the tree at the base. If the wood is soft or crumbly, it’s a sign of decay.
Species: Different tree species have different densities and wood characteristics. Hardwoods like oak and maple are denser and heavier than softwoods like pine and fir. This affects the cutting speed and the forces involved during felling.

2. Environmental Assessment:

Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the intended fall zone, such as buildings, power lines, roads, or other trees.
Escape Routes: Plan two clear escape routes at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated direction of fall. Make sure these routes are free of obstacles.
Wind: Pay attention to the wind direction and speed. Even a slight breeze can significantly alter the tree’s trajectory. I learned this the hard way when a gentle breeze pushed a tree into a fence I’d completely overlooked.
Slope: The slope of the ground can also affect the fall. A tree falling downhill will gain momentum, while a tree falling uphill will be slowed down.

3. Measurement and Planning:

Tree Height: Estimate the tree’s height. A good rule of thumb is to hold a stick at arm’s length, walk away from the tree until the stick appears to be the same height as the tree, and then measure the distance you walked. This will give you a rough estimate of the tree’s height and the area it will cover when it falls.
Felling Direction: Based on the lean, wind, obstacles, and escape routes, determine the optimal direction to fell the tree. This is the most critical decision you’ll make.

Step 2: Essential Safety Gear

Cutting down trees is inherently dangerous. Don’t skimp on safety gear.

Chainsaw Helmet with Face Shield and Ear Protection: Protects your head from falling debris and reduces the risk of hearing damage. I’ve had branches bounce off my helmet more times than I can count.
Eye Protection: Even with a face shield, wear safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from sawdust and debris.
Chainsaw Chaps: These are essential for protecting your legs from accidental chainsaw contact. They are made of multiple layers of ballistic nylon that will clog the chainsaw if it comes into contact, preventing serious injury.
Work Gloves: Provide a good grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.
First-Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first-aid kit readily available in case of an injury.
Whistle or Signaling Device: In case of an emergency, a whistle can help you signal for help.

Step 3: Chainsaw Selection and Maintenance

The right chainsaw and proper maintenance are crucial for safe and efficient felling.

1. Chainsaw Size and Power:

Engine Size: For wide trunks (over 24 inches in diameter), I recommend a chainsaw with an engine displacement of at least 60cc. A larger engine provides more power and torque, making it easier to cut through dense wood.
Bar Length: The bar length should be at least 2 inches longer than the diameter of the tree you’re cutting. This ensures that you can make a clean cut without having to reposition the saw multiple times. For very wide trunks, you might even need to use a chainsaw with a bar length of 36 inches or more.
Weight: Consider the weight of the chainsaw. A heavier saw can be more tiring to use, especially for extended periods. Balance power with maneuverability.

2. Chainsaw Maintenance:

Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. A dull chain requires more force, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. I sharpen my chain after every tank of gas or if I notice it’s not cutting as smoothly. Learn how to sharpen your chain properly using a chainsaw sharpening kit or have it professionally sharpened.
Chain Tension: Check the chain tension regularly. A loose chain can come off the bar, while a tight chain can overheat and break. The chain should have a slight amount of slack, allowing you to pull it away from the bar slightly.
Bar Oil Level: Keep the bar oil reservoir filled. The bar oil lubricates the chain and bar, preventing overheating and wear.
Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow, reducing engine power and increasing fuel consumption.
Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug regularly and replace it if necessary. A faulty spark plug can cause starting problems and poor engine performance.
Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (usually a 50:1 ratio of gasoline to two-stroke oil). Using the wrong fuel mixture can damage the engine.

3. Chainsaw Brands and Models:

Stihl: Known for their reliability and durability. The Stihl MS 462 R C-M is a popular choice for professional loggers.
Husqvarna: Another reputable brand with a wide range of chainsaws. The Husqvarna 572 XP is a powerful and versatile saw suitable for felling large trees.
Echo: Offers a good balance of performance and value. The Echo CS-590 Timber Wolf is a popular choice for homeowners and occasional users.

Step 4: Felling Techniques for Wide Trunks

Felling a wide trunk requires a systematic approach and precise cuts.

1. The Notch Cut (Undercut):

Purpose: The notch cut determines the direction of fall and prevents the tree from splitting or kicking back during felling.
Types of Notches:
- Conventional Notch (Open Face): A 45-degree angle cut into the tree, followed by a horizontal cut that meets the angled cut. This is the most common type of notch.
- Humboldt Notch: An inverted version of the conventional notch, used in areas with heavy snow or wet conditions.
- Open Face Notch: A wider notch, typically 70-90 degrees, used for trees with a strong lean or when precise directional control is needed.
Procedure:
1. Horizontal Cut: Start by making a horizontal cut into the tree at a comfortable height (usually around knee level). The depth of the cut should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
2. Angled Cut: Make an angled cut from above, meeting the horizontal cut at the desired angle (usually 45 degrees). Remove the wedge of wood created by the two cuts.
3. Clean Up: Clean up the notch, removing any loose wood or debris. The notch should be clean and precise.

2. The Back Cut:

Purpose: The back cut is the final cut that releases the tree. It’s crucial to leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the direction of fall.
Procedure:
1. Positioning: Stand to the side of the tree, away from the intended direction of fall.
2. Starting the Cut: Start the back cut on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch.
3. Cutting Depth: Cut horizontally towards the notch, leaving a hinge of uncut wood. The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
4. Hinge Width: Maintain a consistent hinge width across the back of the tree. This ensures that the tree falls in the intended direction.
5. Wedges: As you cut, insert felling wedges into the back cut to prevent the tree from pinching the saw and to help push the tree over. I always carry several wedges of different sizes.
6. Final Cut: Once the back cut is almost complete, shout a warning (“Timber!”) and move to your escape route. The tree should begin to fall.

3. Felling Wedges:

Purpose: Felling wedges are used to prevent the chainsaw from getting pinched during the back cut and to help push the tree over in the desired direction.
Types of Wedges:
- Plastic Wedges: Lightweight and durable, suitable for most felling applications.
- Aluminum Wedges: Stronger than plastic wedges, used for larger trees or when more force is needed.
- Steel Wedges: The strongest type of wedge, used for very large trees or when dealing with difficult leans.
Using Wedges:
1. Insertion: Insert the wedges into the back cut as you make the cut, starting with one wedge and adding more as needed.
2. Driving: Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedges deeper into the cut, gradually pushing the tree over.
3. Placement: Place the wedges strategically to control the direction of fall.

4. Pulling System (Optional):

Purpose: A pulling system can be used to help pull the tree over in the desired direction, especially when dealing with trees with a strong lean or when precise directional control is needed.
Components:
- Winch: A hand-operated or electric winch.
- Rope or Cable: A strong rope or cable rated for the weight of the tree.
- Anchor Point: A sturdy anchor point, such as another tree or a large rock.
Procedure:
1. Attach Rope: Attach the rope or cable to the tree, as high as possible.
2. Anchor: Anchor the other end of the rope or cable to a sturdy anchor point in the desired direction of fall.
3. Tension: Apply tension to the rope or cable using the winch.
4. Felling Cut: Make the felling cut, using wedges as needed. The pulling system will help pull the tree over in the desired direction.

Step 5: Dealing with Difficult Situations

Sometimes, things don’t go as planned. Here’s how to handle some common challenges:

1. Tree Leaning the Wrong Way:

Wedges: Use multiple wedges to try to push the tree over in the desired direction.
Pulling System: Use a pulling system to help pull the tree over.
Pie Cut: If the tree is leaning heavily, you can use a pie cut to help relieve the tension and allow the tree to fall in the desired direction. A pie cut involves removing a wedge of wood from the side of the tree opposite the lean.

2. Chainsaw Pinching:

Stop Cutting: Immediately stop the chainsaw and turn it off.
Wedges: Insert wedges into the cut to relieve the pressure on the bar.
Second Chainsaw: If possible, use a second chainsaw to cut the tree from the other side, relieving the pressure on the pinched saw.
Patience: Don’t force the saw. Take your time and work carefully to free it.

3. Hang-Ups:

Assessment: Assess the situation carefully. Don’t try to dislodge the tree if it’s hung up on a power line or if there’s a risk of it falling unexpectedly.
Professional Help: If the tree is hung up in a dangerous situation, call a professional arborist or tree removal service.
Safe Removal: If the situation is safe, you can try to dislodge the tree by using a peavey or a pulling system.

4. Kickback:

Prevention: Always use a chainsaw with a chain brake and anti-kickback features.
Proper Technique: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback.
Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
Awareness: Be aware of the tip of the chainsaw bar and avoid using it to make plunge cuts.

Step 6: Limbing and Bucking

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to limb it (remove the branches) and buck it (cut it into shorter lengths).

1. Limbing:

Safety: Wear your safety gear and be aware of the position of the tree and your surroundings.
Technique: Start limbing from the base of the tree and work your way towards the top. Cut the branches close to the trunk, being careful not to damage the trunk.
Support: Support the branches as you cut them to prevent them from pinching the saw.
Direction: Cut the branches on the uphill side of the tree first, then move to the downhill side.

2. Bucking:

Purpose: Bucking involves cutting the trunk into shorter lengths for easier handling and transport.
Planning: Before you start bucking, plan your cuts to minimize waste and maximize the use of the wood.
Support: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use logs or blocks of wood to elevate the log off the ground.
Cutting Techniques:
- Overbuck: Cut from the top down.
- Underbuck: Cut from the bottom up.
- Combination: Use a combination of overbuck and underbuck to prevent pinching.
Length: Cut the logs to the desired length, taking into account the intended use of the wood (e.g., firewood, lumber).
Debarking (Optional): Debarking the logs can help them dry faster and prevent insect infestations. Use a drawknife or a debarking spud to remove the bark.

Step 7: Firewood Preparation (If Applicable)

If you’re preparing the wood for firewood, the next step is to split it and stack it to dry.

1. Splitting:

Axes:
- Splitting Axe: Designed for splitting wood, with a heavy head and a wide blade.
- Maul: A heavier version of the splitting axe, used for splitting larger rounds.
Hydraulic Splitter: A machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split wood. It’s more efficient and less physically demanding than using an axe, especially for large quantities of wood.
Technique:
- Safety: Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Positioning: Place the round on a stable surface.
- Aim: Aim for the center of the round or any existing cracks.
- Swing: Swing the axe or maul with a controlled motion, using your legs and core for power.
- Hydraulic Splitter: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for operating the hydraulic splitter.

2. Stacking:

Purpose: Stacking firewood allows it to dry properly, reducing its moisture content and making it easier to burn.
Location: Choose a sunny and well-ventilated location for your woodpile.
Stacking Method:
- Criss-Cross: Stack the wood in a criss-cross pattern to allow for good air circulation.
- Holz Hausen: A circular stacking method that promotes efficient drying.
Elevation: Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or logs to prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
Covering: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp or roof to protect it from rain and snow.
Drying Time: Allow the wood to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year, before burning it. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.

3. Wood Types and Drying Times:

Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash): Denser and take longer to dry (12-24 months). Produce more heat when burned.
Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Less dense and dry faster (6-12 months). Burn faster and produce less heat.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Drying in a Humid Climate

I once worked on a project in a particularly humid region where firewood took an exceptionally long time to dry. Traditional stacking methods were proving ineffective, leading to mold and rot. To address this, I implemented a modified Holz Hausen design with a central chimney for improved ventilation. I also elevated the entire stack on a gravel bed to minimize ground moisture. The result was a significant reduction in drying time and a much higher quality of firewood. The key was understanding the local climate and adapting the drying method accordingly.

Step 8: Cleanup and Maintenance

After you’ve felled, limbed, bucked, and split the wood, it’s time to clean up the area and maintain your equipment.

1. Cleanup:

Debris Removal: Remove all debris from the area, including branches, leaves, and sawdust.
Stump Treatment: Treat the stump with a herbicide to prevent it from sprouting.
Erosion Control: Take steps to prevent erosion, such as planting grass or covering the soil with mulch.

2. Equipment Maintenance:

Chainsaw Cleaning: Clean the chainsaw thoroughly, removing any sawdust or debris.
Sharpening: Sharpen the chain.
Storage: Store the chainsaw in a safe and dry place.
Axe and Maul Maintenance: Clean and sharpen your axe and maul.
Hydraulic Splitter Maintenance: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for maintaining your hydraulic splitter.

Strategic Insights

Timing is Everything: Winter is often the best time to fell trees, as the sap is down and the trees are dormant. This makes the wood easier to dry and less prone to insect infestations.
Local Regulations: Be aware of local regulations regarding tree felling. Some areas require permits for felling trees, especially near waterways or protected areas.
Professional Arborist: If you’re unsure about any aspect of tree felling, consult a professional arborist. They can provide expert advice and assistance.
Continuous Learning: Tree felling is a skill that requires continuous learning and practice. Attend workshops, read books, and watch videos to improve your skills.

Practical Next Steps

Start Small: Begin by felling smaller trees to gain experience and confidence.
Practice: Practice your cutting techniques on logs or branches before tackling a large tree.
Safety First: Always prioritize safety and wear appropriate safety gear.
Seek Guidance: If you’re unsure about any aspect of tree felling, seek guidance from a professional arborist or experienced logger.
Invest in Quality Tools: Invest in high-quality tools that are appropriate for the size and type of trees you’ll be felling.
Maintain Your Equipment: Maintain your equipment regularly to ensure it’s in good working order.
Plan Your Project: Plan your project carefully, taking into account the size and type of trees you’ll be felling, the location of the trees, and the intended use of the wood.

Felling a wide trunk with a chainsaw is a challenging but rewarding task. By following these steps and prioritizing safety, you can safely and efficiently fell trees and prepare wood for various uses. Remember, experience is the best teacher. So, get out there, practice your skills, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with wood. And always, always respect the power of a falling tree.

Cut Down Tree with Chainsaw: Cutting Wide Trunks Safely (Pro Tips)

Cutting Down Tree with Chainsaw: Cutting Wide Trunks Safely (Pro Tips)

Understanding the Challenge of Wide Trunks