CS 400 Echo Chainsaw Chain Size Guide (Best Picks For Bucking)

I’ve seen it happen more times than I can count: someone grabs a new chain for their chainsaw, slaps it on, and wonders why it’s not cutting straight or, worse, why it’s kicking back like a wild bronco. The culprit? Nine times out of ten, it’s an incorrect chain size. It’s a mistake that can not only ruin your timber but also, and more importantly, put you at serious risk of injury. Trust me, there’s nothing quite as humbling as wrestling with a chainsaw that’s fighting back because of something as simple as the wrong chain.

For those of us who rely on the Echo CS 400 chainsaw, this is a particularly crucial detail to nail down. The CS 400 is a workhorse – a reliable, powerful saw that’s perfect for a range of tasks, from limbing smaller trees to bucking firewood. But to get the most out of it, you need the right chain. So, let’s dive deep into the world of Echo CS 400 chain sizes, specifically focusing on the best picks for bucking firewood. I’ll share my experiences, practical tips, and everything you need to know to choose the perfect chain for your next wood-splitting adventure.

Understanding Your Echo CS 400 Chainsaw

Before we get into the nitty-gritty of chain sizes, let’s quickly recap what makes the Echo CS 400 such a popular choice. It’s a mid-range chainsaw known for its reliability, ease of use, and decent power-to-weight ratio. It’s a go-to for homeowners and even some professionals for smaller jobs.

Echo CS 400: Key Specifications

Engine Displacement: Typically around 40.2 cc
Bar Length: Most commonly found with a 16-inch or 18-inch bar. This is a critical factor when selecting your chain.
Chain Pitch: This is the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. The Echo CS 400 typically uses a 3/8″ pitch chain.
Chain Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. The Echo CS 400 usually takes a .050″ gauge chain.
Drive Links: The number of drive links is specific to your bar length. This is the number of the links that fit into the chainsaw bar.

Why these specs matter: These specifications dictate the type of chain that will properly fit and function on your saw. Using the wrong pitch or gauge can damage your saw and create a safety hazard.

The Importance of Matching Chain to Bar Length

I cannot stress this enough: your chain must match your bar length. It’s like trying to wear shoes that are two sizes too small – it’s just not going to work, and you’ll end up with blisters (or, in this case, a damaged chainsaw and potentially serious injuries).

My personal experience: I once tried to get away with using a slightly shorter chain on a bar, thinking it wouldn’t make much difference. The chain kept popping off, the saw was vibrating like crazy, and I nearly lost control of it a couple of times. It was a stupid mistake that could have had serious consequences. Learn from my foolishness!

Decoding Chainsaw Chain Specifications

Let’s break down the key specifications you’ll encounter when choosing a chain for your Echo CS 400. Understanding these terms is essential for making an informed decision.

Pitch

As mentioned earlier, pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. It’s essentially the size of the chain. The most common pitch for the Echo CS 400 is 3/8″.

Why 3/8″ is common: This pitch provides a good balance between cutting speed and durability for the engine size of the CS 400. It’s a versatile pitch that works well for a variety of wood types.

Gauge

Gauge refers to the thickness of the drive links that fit into the groove of the guide bar. For the Echo CS 400, the standard gauge is .050″.

Why gauge matters: Using the wrong gauge can cause the chain to bind in the bar or, conversely, be too loose, leading to poor cutting performance and increased wear on the bar and chain.

Drive Links

Drive links are the little teeth that sit inside the groove of the guide bar and are propelled by the chainsaw’s sprocket. The number of drive links you need depends on the length of your guide bar.

Finding the correct number of drive links: This is usually listed on the chainsaw bar itself, or in the owner’s manual. If you’re unsure, you can count the drive links on your old chain.

Full Chisel vs. Semi-Chisel

This refers to the shape of the cutting teeth.

Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered teeth that are very aggressive and cut quickly. They are ideal for clean wood but dull quickly if they come into contact with dirt or debris.
Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded corners on the teeth, making them more durable and less prone to dulling when cutting dirty wood. They are not as fast as full chisel chains, but they are more versatile.

My recommendation for bucking: For bucking firewood, I generally recommend a semi-chisel chain. Firewood is often dirty, especially if it’s been sitting on the ground. A semi-chisel chain will hold its edge longer and require less frequent sharpening.

Low-Kickback Chains

These chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback, a dangerous phenomenon where the chainsaw suddenly jumps back towards the operator. They feature guard links or bumper drive links that help prevent the chain from grabbing and throwing the saw back.

Safety first: While low-kickback chains are safer, they are not foolproof. Always use proper chainsaw safety techniques, regardless of the type of chain you’re using.

Best Chain Picks for Bucking Firewood with Your Echo CS 400

Now, let’s get down to the specifics. Based on my experience and research, here are some of the best chain options for bucking firewood with your Echo CS 400, taking into account different bar lengths and wood types.

Important Note: Always double-check the specifications of the chain to ensure it matches your bar length, pitch, and gauge.

For 16-inch Bar (Most Common)

Oregon S56 AdvanceCut Chain: This is a popular and reliable choice for general firewood cutting. It’s a semi-chisel chain that offers a good balance of cutting speed and durability. It typically has 56 drive links.
- Why I like it: It’s readily available, affordable, and performs well in a variety of wood types.
Stihl 26RM3 Rapid Micro Comfort 3: Stihl chains are known for their quality and sharpness. This is a semi-chisel chain that’s designed for smooth cutting and reduced vibration. It also usually has 56 drive links.
- Why I like it: Stihl chains tend to hold their edge longer than some other brands, which means less frequent sharpening.
Husqvarna H30 (S93G) Pixel Chain: This is a semi-chisel chain with a narrow kerf, which means it removes less wood with each cut. This can result in faster cutting and less strain on the saw. It also typically has 56 drive links.
- Why I like it: The narrow kerf makes it a good choice for smaller diameter wood.

For 18-inch Bar

Oregon S58 AdvanceCut Chain: Similar to the S56, but with 58 drive links to accommodate the longer bar.
- Why I like it: Consistent performance and durability.
Stihl 26RM3 Rapid Micro Comfort 3: Again, the Stihl option is a solid choice, but make sure you get the version with the correct number of drive links (usually 62).
- Why I like it: Long-lasting sharpness.
Husqvarna H30 (S93G) Pixel Chain: With the appropriate number of drive links for the 18-inch bar.
- Why I like it: Efficient cutting with less strain on the saw.

Considerations for Different Wood Types

The type of wood you’re cutting can also influence your chain choice.

Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): These woods are generally easier to cut and don’t dull chains as quickly. A full chisel chain could be used, but a semi-chisel will still be a good choice and more forgiving if you encounter dirt or knots.
Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): These woods are denser and can be harder on chains. A semi-chisel chain is definitely the way to go here. You might also consider a chain with hardened cutters for increased durability.

A word on exotic hardwoods: If you’re dealing with particularly dense or abrasive hardwoods (like some tropical species), you might even consider a chain with carbide-tipped cutters. These chains are more expensive, but they can last significantly longer than standard chains. I once used a carbide-tipped chain to cut some extremely hard ironwood, and it was a game-changer.

Sharpening and Maintaining Your Chainsaw Chain

No matter how good your chain is, it will eventually dull. A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, which increases the risk of kickback and operator fatigue.

When to Sharpen

When the chain is no longer producing chips, but instead sawdust. This is a telltale sign that the cutters are dull.
When you have to apply excessive pressure to make the saw cut. A sharp chain should pull itself through the wood with minimal effort.
When the saw is cutting crookedly or vibrating excessively. This can indicate unevenly sharpened cutters.

How to Sharpen

You can sharpen your chainsaw chain using a variety of tools, including:

Round File and Guide: This is the most common and affordable method. It requires some practice to master, but it allows you to sharpen the chain precisely.
Electric Chain Sharpener: This is a faster and easier option, but it can be more expensive. It’s important to use the correct grinding wheel size and angle to avoid damaging the chain.
Bar-Mounted Sharpener: This is a convenient option for sharpening the chain while it’s still on the saw. However, it can be less precise than other methods.

My preferred method: I prefer using a round file and guide. It gives me the most control and allows me to maintain the correct cutting angles.

Maintaining Your Chain

In addition to sharpening, regular maintenance is essential for prolonging the life of your chainsaw chain.

Clean the chain regularly. Remove any dirt, sawdust, or pitch buildup.
Lubricate the chain properly. Use a good quality bar and chain oil.
Check the chain tension regularly. A properly tensioned chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
Inspect the chain for damage. Look for cracked or broken cutters, damaged drive links, or loose rivets. Replace the chain if you find any significant damage.

Safety First: Essential Chainsaw Safety Practices

Before you even think about firing up your chainsaw, it’s crucial to understand and follow proper safety practices. Chainsaws are powerful tools that can cause serious injuries if used improperly.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Chainsaw Chaps: These are essential for protecting your legs from accidental cuts.
Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud, so wear earplugs or earmuffs to prevent hearing damage.
Gloves: Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands and improve your grip.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and accidental cuts.
Helmet: A helmet is recommended, especially when felling trees.

Safe Cutting Techniques

Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands.
Keep your feet firmly planted and maintain a stable stance.
Be aware of your surroundings and clear any obstacles from your work area.
Avoid cutting above shoulder height.
Never cut with the tip of the bar. This is the most common cause of kickback.
Use proper felling techniques when cutting down trees.
Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to avoid it.
Never operate a chainsaw when you are tired, distracted, or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Kickback: Understanding and Preventing It

Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw that can occur when the tip of the bar comes into contact with an object or when the chain is pinched. It’s one of the most common and dangerous chainsaw accidents.

How to prevent kickback:

Use a low-kickback chain.
Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
Keep the chain sharp.
Maintain proper chain tension.
Hold the saw firmly with both hands.
Be aware of your surroundings and avoid cutting in areas where the tip of the bar could come into contact with an object.

My close call: I once experienced a severe kickback while cutting a small tree. The saw jumped back so violently that it nearly ripped out of my hands. I was lucky to escape with just a bruised arm. It was a stark reminder of the importance of always being vigilant and following proper safety procedures.

Beyond the Chain: Optimizing Your Firewood Processing

Choosing the right chain is just one piece of the puzzle. To maximize your efficiency and safety when processing firewood, consider these additional factors.

Wood Selection

Seasoned vs. Green Wood: Seasoned wood is much easier to split and burns more efficiently. Green wood can be difficult to split and produces a lot of smoke when burned.
Wood Species: Different wood species have different burning characteristics. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory produce more heat and burn longer than softwoods like pine and fir.
Log Size: Choose logs that are manageable to handle and split. Overly large logs can be dangerous and difficult to process.

Splitting Techniques

Manual Splitting: Using a splitting maul or axe is a good workout, but it can also be tiring and time-consuming.
Hydraulic Log Splitter: This is a much faster and easier option, especially for larger logs.
Kindling Preparation: Don’t forget to prepare kindling for starting your fires. Small pieces of dry wood are ideal.

Stacking and Drying

Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area. This will allow the wood to dry properly.
Elevate the wood off the ground. This will prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
Cover the wood pile with a tarp. This will protect it from rain and snow.

The 1-2-3 rule of firewood: I always follow what I call the 1-2-3 rule: Cut it in the winter, split it in the spring, and burn it in the fall. This gives the wood plenty of time to season properly.

Case Study: My Firewood Processing Project

Let me share a specific example of a firewood processing project I undertook recently.

Equipment Used:

Echo CS 400 chainsaw with an 18-inch bar
Oregon S58 AdvanceCut chain
Hydraulic log splitter
Splitting maul
Safety glasses
Chainsaw chaps
Gloves
Steel-toed boots
Hearing protection

Wood Type:

Mixed hardwoods (oak, maple, hickory)

Safety Considerations:

Cleared the work area of obstacles
Wore all appropriate PPE
Maintained a safe distance from the log splitter
Took frequent breaks to avoid fatigue

Process:

Felled the trees (using proper felling techniques).
Bucked the logs into 16-inch lengths using the Echo CS 400.
Split the logs using the hydraulic log splitter.
Stacked the wood in a well-ventilated area to dry.

Results:

Processed approximately 5 cords of firewood
Successfully seasoned the wood for burning the following winter
Experienced no accidents or injuries

Key Takeaways:

Proper planning and preparation are essential for a successful firewood processing project.
Using the right tools and equipment can significantly improve efficiency and safety.
Following proper safety procedures is paramount to preventing accidents and injuries.

Global Perspectives on Firewood Preparation

While my experience is rooted in North America, the challenges and joys of firewood preparation are shared by people around the world. From the remote villages of Nepal, where firewood is the primary source of fuel for cooking and heating, to the Scandinavian countries, where wood-burning stoves are a cherished tradition, the need for efficient and sustainable firewood preparation is universal.

Challenges in developing countries: In many developing countries, firewood collection is a laborious and often dangerous task. Women and children often spend hours each day collecting firewood, which can contribute to deforestation and environmental degradation. Access to modern tools and equipment is limited, and safety training is often nonexistent.

Sustainable practices: Promoting sustainable firewood harvesting practices is crucial for protecting forests and ensuring a reliable source of fuel for future generations. This includes planting trees, using efficient wood-burning stoves, and promoting alternative energy sources.

Final Thoughts: The Satisfaction of a Well-Stocked Woodpile

There’s a certain satisfaction that comes from splitting your own firewood. It’s a connection to nature, a physical challenge, and a way to provide warmth and comfort for yourself and your family. Choosing the right chain for your Echo CS 400 is a crucial step in that process. By understanding the different types of chains, following proper safety practices, and maintaining your equipment, you can enjoy the rewards of a well-stocked woodpile for years to come.

So, get out there, choose the right chain, and start cutting! But remember, safety first, always. And if you’re ever unsure about anything, don’t hesitate to consult with a qualified professional. Happy bucking!