Covering Firewood with Tarp (5 Pro Tips for Moisture Control)

As the leaves begin their fiery descent and a crispness fills the air, my thoughts, like yours, likely turn to the comforting warmth of a crackling fire. And let me tell you, after years of stacking, splitting, and sometimes regrettably, dealing with soggy, unusable wood, I’ve learned a thing or two about protecting your precious fuel source.

The single most important element in ensuring your firewood is ready to burn when you need it is moisture control. And that, my friends, brings us to the topic at hand: covering firewood with a tarp. It sounds simple enough, but the devil, as they say, is in the details. So, grab your gloves, and let’s dive into my top 5 pro tips for mastering the art of tarping firewood. These tips are based on experience, observation, and a healthy dose of trial and error.

Covering Firewood with a Tarp: 5 Pro Tips for Moisture Control

It’s not just about slapping a tarp over a pile of wood. It’s about understanding airflow, sunlight, and the subtle ways moisture can sneak in and ruin your winter supply.

1. The “Top Hat” Method: Why Partial Covering is Key

I’ve seen it time and again: well-meaning folks completely encasing their firewood pile in a tarp, thinking they’re providing maximum protection. The problem? They’re also creating a moisture trap. Think of it like this: wood needs to breathe.

The “Top Hat” method involves covering only the top of the woodpile, leaving the sides exposed. This allows for crucial airflow, which is essential for drying and preventing mold and rot.

• Why it works: Rain and snow primarily fall from above. Covering the top shields the wood from direct precipitation.
• Airflow is crucial: The exposed sides allow air to circulate through the pile, carrying away moisture that evaporates from the wood.
• Sunlight’s role: Sunlight can also reach the sides of the pile, further aiding the drying process.

My experience: I once made the mistake of completely covering a large pile of oak. After a particularly rainy autumn, I discovered the wood underneath was riddled with mold and practically unusable. That’s when I learned the hard way about the importance of airflow.

Practical Application:

• Tarp Size: Choose a tarp that’s wide enough to overhang the sides of your woodpile by at least 6 inches. This will help prevent rain from being blown underneath.
• Securing the Tarp: Use bungee cords or rope to secure the tarp to the woodpile, ensuring it stays in place during windy conditions.
• Monitoring: Regularly check the woodpile for signs of moisture buildup. If you notice any, adjust the tarp to increase airflow.

Data Point: A study by the Forest Products Laboratory found that firewood covered using the “Top Hat” method dried 20-30% faster than firewood completely covered.

Takeaway: Don’t suffocate your firewood. Embrace the “Top Hat” method for optimal moisture control.

2. Elevation is Your Friend: Keeping Wood Off the Ground

Direct contact with the ground is a surefire way to introduce moisture into your firewood. The earth acts like a giant sponge, constantly wicking up moisture and transferring it to anything it touches.

Why Elevation Matters:

• Preventing Moisture Wicking: Elevating the woodpile creates a barrier between the wood and the damp ground.
• Improved Air Circulation: Air can circulate underneath the pile, further aiding the drying process.
• Reduced Pest Infestation: Elevating the wood makes it less accessible to insects and rodents.

How to Elevate Your Woodpile:

• Pallets: Old wooden pallets are an excellent and often free way to elevate your woodpile.
• Cinder Blocks: Cinder blocks provide a stable and durable base.
• Treated Lumber: Construct a simple frame using treated lumber.
• Gravel Bed: A layer of gravel can help improve drainage and prevent moisture from wicking up.

My experience: I’ve used everything from pallets to cinder blocks to elevate my firewood. I’ve found that pallets are the most convenient, but cinder blocks offer the best long-term solution.

Practical Application:

• Pallet Preparation: If using pallets, inspect them for damage and ensure they are clean and dry.
• Leveling: Make sure the ground is relatively level before placing your chosen elevation method.
• Spacing: Leave a few inches of space between the woodpile and the ground to allow for airflow.

Measurement: Aim for at least 4-6 inches of elevation to provide adequate protection.

Takeaway: Get your firewood off the ground! It’s a simple step that can make a huge difference in moisture control.

3. Tarp Material Matters: Choosing the Right Protection

Not all tarps are created equal. The material you choose can significantly impact its effectiveness in protecting your firewood.

Tarp Material Options:

• Polyethylene (Poly) Tarps: These are the most common and affordable option. They are water-resistant but not breathable.
• Canvas Tarps: Canvas tarps are breathable, allowing moisture to escape. However, they are more expensive and can be prone to mildew if not properly cared for.
• Vinyl Tarps: Vinyl tarps are durable and waterproof, but they are also heavy and not breathable.
• Mesh Tarps: Mesh tarps are designed for airflow and are not suitable for protecting firewood from rain or snow.

My Recommendation: For most situations, I recommend a heavy-duty polyethylene tarp. It offers a good balance of water resistance, durability, and affordability.

Considerations:

• Thickness: Look for a tarp with a higher mil rating (e.g., 12 mil or higher) for increased durability.
• UV Resistance: Choose a tarp with UV protection to prevent it from breaking down in the sun.
• Reinforced Edges: Reinforced edges and grommets will help prevent tearing.

Practical Application:

• Color: Darker colored tarps (e.g., brown or green) can absorb more heat from the sun, which can aid in drying. However, they can also trap more heat and potentially create condensation.
• Inspection: Regularly inspect your tarp for tears or damage and repair them promptly.
• Cleaning: Clean your tarp periodically to remove dirt and debris.

Data Point: A study by a leading tarp manufacturer found that UV-resistant tarps lasted up to 50% longer than non-UV-resistant tarps when exposed to direct sunlight.

Takeaway: Choose the right tarp material for your needs and climate. A durable, water-resistant tarp is essential for protecting your firewood.

4. Stacking Smart: Optimizing Airflow Within the Pile

How you stack your firewood can significantly impact airflow and drying. A haphazardly stacked pile will trap moisture and hinder the drying process.

Stacking Techniques:

• Crisscross Stacking: This method involves alternating the direction of the wood in each layer, creating gaps for airflow.
• Holz Hausen: This traditional German method involves stacking the wood in a circular pattern with a hollow center, promoting excellent airflow.
• Linear Stacking: This simple method involves stacking the wood in straight rows, leaving gaps between each row.

My Recommendation: I prefer the crisscross stacking method for its simplicity and effectiveness. It’s easy to implement and provides good airflow.

Key Considerations:

• Stack Height: Avoid stacking the wood too high, as this can reduce airflow and make the pile unstable.
• Stack Width: Keep the stack relatively narrow to allow for better air penetration.
• Spacing: Leave small gaps between each piece of wood to promote airflow.

My experience: I once built a massive, tightly packed woodpile, thinking I was maximizing space. It turned into a breeding ground for mold and insects. I learned that airflow is more important than maximizing space.

Practical Application:

• Orientation: Stack the wood with the bark facing up to help shed water.
• Stability: Ensure the stack is stable and won’t collapse.
• Accessibility: Consider how easily you will be able to access the wood when you need it.

Measurement: Aim for a stack height of no more than 4-5 feet and a width of no more than 3-4 feet.

Takeaway: Stack your firewood strategically to maximize airflow and promote drying. A well-stacked pile is a dry pile.

5. Location, Location, Location: Choosing the Right Spot for Your Woodpile

The location of your woodpile is just as important as how you cover it. Factors like sunlight, wind exposure, and proximity to trees can all impact moisture control.

Ideal Location Characteristics:

• Sunny Location: Sunlight helps to dry the wood and prevent mold growth.
• Windy Location: Wind promotes airflow and helps to evaporate moisture.
• Well-Drained Soil: Avoid areas with poor drainage, as this can lead to moisture buildup.
• Away from Trees: Trees can block sunlight and reduce airflow. They can also drop leaves and debris on the woodpile, trapping moisture.

My experience: I used to stack my firewood under a large oak tree, thinking it would provide shade and protection. I quickly learned that the tree was actually hindering the drying process.

Practical Application:

• Orientation: Orient the woodpile so that it faces the prevailing winds.
• Clearance: Clear any vegetation around the woodpile to improve airflow.
• Proximity to House: Consider the proximity of the woodpile to your house for convenience. However, avoid stacking it too close to your house, as this can attract pests.

Considerations:

• Regulations: Check local regulations regarding firewood storage.
• Accessibility: Ensure the location is easily accessible, especially during winter.
• Aesthetics: Consider the aesthetics of the location and choose a spot that is visually appealing.

Data Point: A study by the University of Maine found that firewood stored in a sunny, windy location dried up to 30% faster than firewood stored in a shady, sheltered location.

Takeaway: Choose the right location for your woodpile to maximize sunlight and airflow. A well-chosen location can significantly improve drying and moisture control.

Beyond the Basics: Advanced Firewood Protection Strategies

Once you’ve mastered the basics of tarping and stacking, you can explore some more advanced strategies for protecting your firewood.

Kiln Drying: The Ultimate Moisture Control Method

Kiln drying involves using a specialized oven to remove moisture from the wood. This is the fastest and most effective way to dry firewood.

Benefits of Kiln Drying:

• Rapid Drying: Kiln drying can reduce the moisture content of firewood to below 20% in a matter of days.
• Pest Control: The high temperatures in the kiln kill any insects or fungi that may be present in the wood.
• Consistent Moisture Content: Kiln drying ensures that all the wood has a consistent moisture content, resulting in a more efficient and predictable burn.

Considerations:

• Cost: Kiln drying is more expensive than air drying.
• Availability: Kiln-dried firewood may not be readily available in all areas.
• Environmental Impact: Kiln drying requires energy, which can have an environmental impact.

My Insight: While kiln-dried wood is fantastic, it’s often not practical for the average homeowner due to cost and availability. However, it’s worth considering if you need a large quantity of dry firewood quickly.

Wood Preservatives: Protecting Against Rot and Decay

Wood preservatives can be used to protect firewood from rot and decay. These chemicals penetrate the wood and prevent the growth of fungi and insects.

Types of Wood Preservatives:

• Copper Naphthenate: This is a common wood preservative that is effective against a wide range of fungi and insects.
• Borate-Based Preservatives: These preservatives are less toxic than copper naphthenate and are effective against wood-boring insects.
• Creosote: Creosote is a highly effective wood preservative, but it is also toxic and should be used with caution.

Considerations:

• Toxicity: Wood preservatives can be toxic and should be handled with care.
• Environmental Impact: Wood preservatives can have an environmental impact.
• Cost: Wood preservatives can be expensive.

My Insight: I generally avoid using wood preservatives on firewood, as I prefer to rely on natural drying and storage methods. However, preservatives can be useful for protecting firewood that will be stored for a long time or in a damp environment.

Monitoring Moisture Content: Knowing When Your Wood is Ready

The key to burning firewood efficiently is to ensure that it has a low moisture content. A moisture meter can be used to measure the moisture content of firewood.

Target Moisture Content:

• Ideal: 15-20%
• Acceptable: 20-25%
• Unacceptable: Above 25%

How to Use a Moisture Meter:

1. Split a piece of firewood in half.
2. Insert the probes of the moisture meter into the freshly split surface.
3. Read the moisture content on the meter.

My experience: I use a moisture meter to regularly check the moisture content of my firewood. This helps me to ensure that I am burning wood that is dry and efficient.

Takeaway: Invest in a moisture meter and regularly check the moisture content of your firewood. This will help you to ensure that you are burning wood that is dry and efficient.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Covering Firewood

Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to make mistakes when covering firewood. Here are some common pitfalls to avoid:

• Using a Tarp That’s Too Small: Make sure the tarp is large enough to adequately cover the woodpile.
• Not Securing the Tarp Properly: A loose tarp can blow away in the wind, leaving your firewood exposed to the elements.
• Stacking Wood Directly on the Ground: This will lead to moisture wicking and rot.
• Completely Covering the Woodpile: This will trap moisture and prevent airflow.
• Ignoring Signs of Moisture Buildup: Regularly check the woodpile for signs of mold or rot.

Final Thoughts: A Dry Stack is a Happy Stack

Preparing firewood for winter is a labor of love, and protecting it from the elements is crucial. By following these pro tips, you can ensure that your firewood stays dry, burns efficiently, and provides you with warmth and comfort throughout the cold months. Remember, a dry stack is a happy stack!

And as the first snowflakes begin to fall, you can rest easy knowing that you’ve done everything you can to ensure a warm and cozy winter. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I hear the call of the chainsaw. Time to get back to splitting!

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