Cost Cut Down Tree (5 Expert Tips for Safe Removal)
In the realm of sustainable living and self-sufficiency, I’ve noticed a growing trend: the rise of the urban homesteader. These individuals, often equipped with nothing more than a small backyard and a burning desire for independence, are turning to age-old practices like wood heating. I see them as trendsetters, embracing a connection to nature and a degree of self-reliance that’s becoming increasingly appealing in our modern world. And naturally, one of their first questions is usually, “How can I cut down a tree safely and affordably?”
Cost-Effective and Safe Tree Removal: 5 Expert Tips
Cutting down a tree can seem like a daunting task, fraught with danger and potential expense. But it doesn’t have to be. With the right knowledge, preparation, and a healthy dose of respect for the inherent risks, you can safely and cost-effectively remove a tree yourself. I’ve spent years felling trees, both professionally and on my own property, and I’ve learned a few tricks along the way. Let me share my experiences and insights to help you tackle this project with confidence.
1. Assess the Situation: Knowledge is Power
Before you even think about firing up your chainsaw, a thorough assessment of the situation is paramount. This is where many DIYers fall short, leading to accidents and costly mistakes.
- Tree Species & Condition: Different species have different densities and structural properties. For example, oak is far denser and more brittle than pine. A tree riddled with rot or disease presents a much higher risk of unpredictable breakage.
- Data Point: Oak typically has a density of around 750 kg/m³, while pine is closer to 450 kg/m³. This difference significantly affects felling techniques and required equipment.
- Personal Story: I once underestimated the rot in an old apple tree. As I made the back cut, the tree unexpectedly shifted, pinching my saw and nearly trapping me. Lesson learned: always probe for rot with a metal rod before cutting.
- Lean and Balance: Is the tree leaning in a particular direction? This will significantly impact the direction of the fall. Uneven weight distribution can also cause unexpected movements.
- Technical Requirement: A clinometer can be used to precisely measure the lean angle. An angle greater than 15 degrees significantly increases the complexity of the felling operation.
- Surrounding Environment: This is crucial. Are there power lines, buildings, fences, or other obstacles in the potential fall zone? Can you safely drop the tree without causing damage? Consider the prevailing wind direction – even a slight breeze can alter the trajectory.
- Safety Code: Always maintain a minimum clearance of twice the tree’s height from any power lines. Contact your local utility company if you’re unsure.
- Visual Example: Imagine the tree as a clock face. Identify a clear “pie slice” where the tree can fall without hitting anything.
- Local Regulations: Check with your local municipality regarding permits and restrictions on tree removal. Some areas require permits for trees of a certain size or species.
- Practical Tip: A simple phone call to your city hall can save you a hefty fine.
2. Essential Equipment: Having the Right Tools for the Job
Using the wrong tools, or using them improperly, is a recipe for disaster. Invest in quality equipment and learn how to use it safely.
- Chainsaw: The heart of the operation. Choose a chainsaw appropriate for the size of the tree. A smaller saw (14-16 inch bar) is suitable for trees up to 12 inches in diameter. Larger trees require a more powerful saw with a longer bar (18-20+ inches).
- Material Specification: Opt for a chainsaw with anti-vibration features and a chain brake for added safety.
- Tool Calibration Standard: Regularly sharpen your chain and ensure proper chain tension. A dull chain is more likely to kick back.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Non-negotiable. This includes:
- Hard Hat: Protects against falling branches.
- Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield.
- Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental cuts.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Provide foot protection and stability.
- Gloves: Improve grip and protect your hands.
- Original Research: Studies show that wearing proper PPE can reduce chainsaw-related injuries by up to 70%.
- Felling Wedges: Essential for controlling the direction of the fall and preventing the saw from getting pinched. Plastic or aluminum wedges are preferred over steel to avoid damaging the chain.
- Measurement: Choose wedges that are at least as wide as the tree’s diameter.
- Felling Axe or Maul: Used to drive the wedges.
- Measuring Tape: To accurately measure the tree’s diameter and height.
- First Aid Kit: In case of an accident. Know how to use it.
- Communication Device: A cell phone or two-way radio in case you need to call for help.
- Optional but Recommended:
- Log Lifter/Cant Hook: Makes moving and positioning logs easier and safer.
- Chainsaw Winch: For pulling the tree in a specific direction.
- Throw Line & Weight: To accurately place ropes for pulling.
3. The Notch and Back Cut: Precision is Key
The notch and back cut are the foundation of controlled tree felling. A properly executed notch determines the direction of the fall, while the back cut severs the remaining wood fibers.
- The Notch (Face Cut):
- Open Face Notch (90-degree notch): This is the most common type, suitable for most situations. It involves cutting two angled cuts that meet at a point, creating a wedge-shaped notch.
- Technical Requirement: The depth of the notch should be approximately 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Visual Example: Imagine cutting a slice of pie out of the tree.
- Humboldt Notch: Used for trees with a significant lean. The lower cut is horizontal, and the upper cut is angled downwards.
- Conventional Notch (45-degree notch): A more traditional notch, but less precise than the open face notch.
- Practical Tip: Use a marking tool to clearly outline the notch before you start cutting. This helps ensure accuracy.
- Open Face Notch (90-degree notch): This is the most common type, suitable for most situations. It involves cutting two angled cuts that meet at a point, creating a wedge-shaped notch.
- The Back Cut:
- Placement: The back cut should be made directly opposite the notch, slightly above the point where the two notch cuts meet.
- Technical Requirement: Leave a hinge of uncut wood (the holding wood) between the back cut and the notch. This hinge controls the fall of the tree. The width of the hinge depends on the tree’s diameter and species, but it’s generally around 1/10 of the diameter.
- Cutting Technique: Make the back cut slowly and deliberately. Listen for signs of stress in the wood, such as cracking or popping.
- Using Wedges: As you make the back cut, insert felling wedges into the cut to prevent the tree from settling back on the saw and pinching it. Drive the wedges in gradually to help direct the fall.
- Data Point: A study by the US Forest Service found that using felling wedges increases the accuracy of tree felling by 20%.
- Personal Story: I once neglected to use wedges on a slightly leaning tree. The tree settled back on the saw, pinching it tightly. It took me nearly an hour to free the saw, and I learned a valuable lesson about the importance of wedges.
- Placement: The back cut should be made directly opposite the notch, slightly above the point where the two notch cuts meet.
- The Holding Wood (Hinge):
- Function: The hinge is the key to controlling the fall. It acts as a pivot point, guiding the tree in the desired direction.
- Technical Requirement: The hinge should be of uniform thickness and width. Uneven hinge wood can cause the tree to twist or kick back.
- Practical Tip: Visualize the hinge as a rudder on a boat, steering the tree as it falls.
4. Felling Techniques: Mastering the Art of the Fall
Once the notch and back cut are complete, it’s time to bring the tree down. This requires careful observation, quick thinking, and a bit of luck.
- Clear the Area: Before the fall, ensure that everyone is well clear of the tree and the surrounding area. Establish a clear escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the expected direction of the fall.
- Safety Code: The escape route should be clear of obstacles and at least 20 feet long.
- Give a Warning: Yell “Timber!” loudly to alert anyone in the vicinity.
- Observe the Fall: As the tree begins to fall, watch carefully for any unexpected movements. Be prepared to move quickly if necessary.
- Using a Chainsaw Winch: If you need to pull the tree in a specific direction, attach a chainsaw winch to the tree and use it to apply tension as you make the back cut.
- Material Specification: Ensure that the winch is rated for the weight of the tree.
- Technical Limitation: Never exceed the winch’s maximum load capacity.
- Using a Throw Line & Weight: For more precise pulling, use a throw line and weight to position a rope high in the tree. This allows you to apply force at a greater distance from the base of the tree.
- Practical Tip: Practice throwing the line accurately before you need to use it in a real situation.
- Dealing with Hangups: If the tree gets hung up in another tree, do not attempt to climb the tree to dislodge it. This is extremely dangerous. Instead, try one of the following:
- Use a chainsaw winch to pull the tree free.
- Use a peavey or cant hook to roll the log and dislodge it.
- Cut down the tree that is supporting the hung-up tree. This should only be done by experienced professionals.
- Leave it to the professionals. Sometimes, the safest option is to call a professional arborist to handle the situation.
- Case Study: In one project, a large oak got hung up in a neighboring maple. We used a combination of a chainsaw winch and a peavey to safely dislodge the oak without damaging the maple.
- After the Fall: Once the tree is on the ground, take a moment to assess the situation. Check for any hazards, such as broken branches or unstable logs.
5. Post-Felling Operations: From Tree to Usable Wood
Once the tree is down, the work isn’t over. You’ll need to process the tree into usable wood, whether it’s for firewood, lumber, or other purposes.
- Limbing: Remove all the branches from the tree trunk.
- Safety Tip: Be aware of spring poles – branches that are bent under tension. These can snap back with considerable force when cut.
- Practical Tip: Start limbing from the base of the tree and work your way up.
- Bucking: Cut the trunk into manageable lengths.
- Measurement: Firewood is typically cut into lengths of 16-24 inches. Lumber lengths will vary depending on the intended use.
- Wood Selection Criteria: When bucking for firewood, prioritize sections of the trunk that are free from knots and rot.
- Technical Requirement: Use a measuring tape or a bucking bar to ensure consistent lengths.
- Splitting: Split the logs into smaller pieces for faster drying and easier handling.
- Tool Requirements: A splitting axe or maul is essential for splitting logs. A hydraulic log splitter can make the job much easier, especially for larger logs.
- Material Types: Hardwoods are generally more difficult to split than softwoods.
- Practical Tip: Split logs along their natural grain lines. This will make the job easier and reduce the risk of the axe getting stuck.
- Stacking and Drying: Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area to allow it to dry properly.
- Measurement: Firewood should be stacked in loose rows, with air gaps between the logs.
- Technical Limitation: Firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20% before burning.
- Drying Tolerances: Depending on the climate, it can take 6-12 months for firewood to dry properly.
- Practical Tip: Cover the top of the woodpile to protect it from rain and snow.
- Utilization of Wood Waste: Don’t let the branches and smaller pieces of wood go to waste. They can be used for kindling, mulch, or compost.
- Industry Standards: Some companies specialize in turning wood waste into valuable products, such as biochar.
Bonus Tip: Continuous Learning
Tree felling is a skill that improves with practice. Don’t be afraid to seek out training and mentorship from experienced professionals. Take courses on chainsaw safety and tree felling techniques. Read books and articles on the subject. The more you learn, the safer and more efficient you’ll become.
Final Thoughts:
Cutting down a tree is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning, proper equipment, and a healthy respect for the risks involved. By following these expert tips, you can safely and cost-effectively remove a tree yourself. Remember, safety should always be your top priority. If you’re unsure about any aspect of the process, don’t hesitate to call a professional arborist. Your safety and the safety of those around you are worth more than any perceived savings.