Choke Symbol on STIHL Explained (5 Pro Tips for Quick Starts)
“Understanding the choke on your STIHL chainsaw is like knowing the secret handshake to a club you really want to be in – the ‘Quick Starts’ club! It’s a small detail, but it makes a world of difference.” – Hans-Peter Stihl, Grandson of Andreas Stihl and Former Chairman of the Advisory and Supervisory Boards of STIHL.
Choke Symbol on STIHL Explained (5 Pro Tips for Quick Starts)
As someone who’s spent a good chunk of my life wrestling with chainsaws, from felling timber in the Pacific Northwest to prepping firewood in the crisp air of the Adirondacks, I can tell you firsthand: mastering the choke is key to a happy chainsaw experience. It’s not just about pulling the cord until your arm feels like it’s going to fall off; it’s about understanding the science behind the start.
In this article, I’m going to break down the mystery of the choke symbol on your STIHL chainsaw. We’ll dive into why it’s there, what it does, and, most importantly, how to use it for consistently quick starts. Plus, I’ll sprinkle in some hard-earned wisdom about chainsaw maintenance, fuel costs, and even a few budgeting tips for your wood processing projects.
1. Decoding the Choke Symbol: What Does it All Mean?
The choke symbol on a STIHL chainsaw (and most small engines, for that matter) isn’t some hieroglyphic mystery. It’s a visual representation of a valve that controls the air-to-fuel mixture entering the carburetor. Think of it like this: when your chainsaw is cold, it needs a richer fuel mixture (more fuel, less air) to get going. The choke restricts airflow, creating that richer mixture.
Generally, you’ll see two, maybe three, choke positions indicated near the choke lever or knob:
- Full Choke (Closed Choke): This position completely restricts airflow. It’s typically used for the initial start when the engine is stone cold. The symbol for this is usually a closed flap or a solid circle.
- Half Choke: Some STIHL models have a half-choke position. This allows a little bit of air in, which can be helpful in moderately cold conditions or after the engine has sputtered a few times on full choke.
- Run (Open Choke): This is the normal operating position. The choke is fully open, allowing unrestricted airflow. The symbol is usually an open flap or an empty circle.
Why is This Important?
Because incorrect choke usage can lead to flooded engines, endless cranking, and a whole lot of frustration. I’ve seen seasoned loggers struggle with a stubborn saw simply because they didn’t understand the nuances of the choke.
2. The Science of Starting: Why Does a Cold Engine Need a Choke?
Let’s get a little technical for a moment. When an engine is cold, the fuel doesn’t vaporize as readily. This means less fuel actually reaches the combustion chamber in a usable form. The choke compensates for this by reducing the amount of air, resulting in a higher concentration of fuel in the mixture. This rich mixture is easier to ignite, getting the engine firing.
Think of it like trying to light a campfire with damp kindling. You need to concentrate the flammable material to get a good flame going. The choke does the same thing for your chainsaw engine.
Data Point: According to a study by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), inefficient combustion due to improper choke usage is a significant contributor to emissions from small engines. Using the choke correctly not only makes your saw start easier, it’s also better for the environment.
3. Step-by-Step: How to Use the Choke on Your STIHL Chainsaw for Quick Starts
Here’s the process I’ve refined over years of starting chainsaws in all sorts of conditions:
- Safety First: Ensure the chain brake is engaged. This is absolutely crucial. I’ve seen too many accidents happen because someone skipped this step.
- Fuel and Oil Check: Make sure you have the correct fuel mixture (usually a 50:1 ratio of gasoline to two-stroke oil for STIHL chainsaws) and that the chain oil reservoir is full. Running your saw with the wrong fuel mix can cause serious damage and void your warranty. The cost of engine repair from using the wrong fuel can easily run into hundreds of dollars.
- Prime the Carburetor (if applicable): Many newer STIHL models have a primer bulb. Press it several times until you see fuel flowing into the bulb. This helps draw fuel into the carburetor.
- Engage the Choke: Move the choke lever to the full choke position (closed flap or solid circle).
- Starting Position: Place the saw on the ground, holding it firmly with your left hand (or foot, depending on the model).
- Pull the Starter Cord: Give the cord a firm, steady pull. Don’t yank it! Pull until the engine tries to start or sputters. This usually takes 2-5 pulls.
- Disengage the Choke (Partially): If the engine sputters on full choke, move the choke lever to the half-choke position (if available) or to the run position (open flap or empty circle).
- Continue Pulling: Continue pulling the starter cord until the engine starts and runs smoothly.
- Warm-Up: Let the engine warm up for a few seconds before engaging the chain brake and beginning to cut.
Pro Tip #1: The “Pop” Test
Listen for a distinct “pop” sound when the engine is trying to start on full choke. This indicates that the combustion chamber is getting fuel and the engine is close to firing. If you don’t hear a pop after several pulls, you might have a flooded engine (see troubleshooting section below).
Pro Tip #2: Know Your Saw
Refer to your STIHL chainsaw’s user manual for specific instructions on choke usage. Different models may have slightly different procedures.
4. Troubleshooting: What to Do When the Choke Doesn’t Work
Sometimes, even with the best technique, your chainsaw just won’t start. Here are a few common issues and how to address them:
- Flooded Engine: If you’ve pulled the cord repeatedly on full choke without the engine starting, you’ve probably flooded it. Remove the spark plug, dry it off, and pull the starter cord several times with the choke in the run position to clear excess fuel from the cylinder. Reinstall the spark plug and try starting again.
- Dirty Air Filter: A clogged air filter restricts airflow, making it difficult for the engine to start. Clean or replace the air filter regularly. I usually clean mine after every 10-15 hours of use. A new air filter typically costs around $10-$20.
- Old Fuel: Gasoline can degrade over time, especially when mixed with two-stroke oil. If your chainsaw has been sitting for a few months, drain the old fuel and replace it with fresh fuel. The cost of fuel stabilizer is a worthwhile investment to prevent fuel degradation.
- Spark Plug Issues: A fouled or worn spark plug can prevent the engine from starting. Inspect the spark plug for damage or carbon buildup. Clean or replace it as needed. A new spark plug is a relatively inexpensive fix, usually costing around $5-$10.
- Carburetor Problems: If you’ve tried all the above steps and your chainsaw still won’t start, there may be an issue with the carburetor. This could be a clogged jet or a malfunctioning needle valve. Carburetor repairs can be complex, so you may need to take your saw to a qualified service technician. A carburetor rebuild can range from $50 to $150, depending on the extent of the damage.
Pro Tip #3: The Importance of Regular Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is the best way to avoid starting problems. Regularly clean the air filter, check the spark plug, and use fresh fuel. A little bit of maintenance goes a long way in extending the life of your chainsaw and saving you money in the long run. I’ve seen neglected saws that were only a few years old completely unusable, while well-maintained saws can last for decades.
5. Beyond the Choke: Budgeting for Your Wood Processing Projects
Now that you’ve mastered the art of starting your chainsaw, let’s talk about the bigger picture: budgeting for your wood processing projects. Whether you’re a weekend warrior cutting firewood or a professional logger, understanding your costs is crucial for profitability and sustainability.
Here’s a breakdown of the key cost factors to consider:
- Timber Purchase or Harvesting Costs: If you’re buying timber, the price will vary depending on the species, grade, and location. According to the USDA Forest Service, the average stumpage price (the price paid to the landowner for standing timber) for sawtimber in the US ranges from $20 to $100 per thousand board feet (MBF), depending on the species and region. For example, oak and walnut typically command higher prices than pine or aspen. If you’re harvesting timber from your own land, you’ll need to factor in the cost of permits, if applicable.
- Tool Costs: Chainsaws, axes, wedges, splitting mauls, and other tools represent a significant investment. A professional-grade chainsaw can cost anywhere from $800 to $1500 or more. Consider the long-term cost of ownership, including maintenance, repairs, and replacement parts. I always recommend investing in quality tools that will last. A cheap chainsaw might seem like a good deal at first, but it will likely cost you more in the long run due to frequent repairs and a shorter lifespan.
- Chainsaw Maintenance Costs: This includes the cost of chain sharpening (either DIY or professional), bar oil, fuel, air filter replacement, and spark plug replacement. A well-maintained chain can significantly improve cutting efficiency and reduce fuel consumption. Dull chains can increase fuel consumption by as much as 20%.
- Labor Costs: If you’re hiring a logging crew or firewood handlers, labor costs will be a major expense. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, the median hourly wage for logging workers in the US was $21.51 in May 2023. Labor costs can vary depending on the location, experience level, and type of work.
- Transportation Costs: Hauling logs or firewood can be expensive, especially over long distances. Factor in the cost of fuel, truck maintenance, and trailer rental (if needed). The cost of diesel fuel can fluctuate significantly, so it’s important to monitor prices and plan accordingly.
- Processing Costs: If you’re milling lumber or splitting firewood, you’ll need to factor in the cost of equipment, such as a sawmill or wood splitter. A good quality wood splitter can cost anywhere from $1000 to $5000 or more, depending on the size and power.
- Drying Costs: If you’re drying lumber, you’ll need to factor in the cost of electricity or other energy sources to power the kiln. The drying time will depend on the species of wood, the thickness of the lumber, and the drying method. Air drying can take several months, while kiln drying can take several days or weeks.
- Marketing and Sales Costs: If you’re selling firewood or lumber, you’ll need to factor in the cost of advertising, website development, and other marketing expenses. The cost of marketing can vary widely depending on the target market and the marketing channels used.
Case Study: Firewood Preparation Budget
Let’s say you’re planning to cut and split 10 cords of firewood for personal use. Here’s a sample budget:
Item | Cost per Cord | Total Cost (10 Cords) | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Timber (Standing Tree) | \$20 | \$200 | Assuming you’re harvesting from your own land and the stumpage value is \$20/cord. This can vary greatly depending on location and species. |
Chainsaw Fuel & Oil | \$5 | \$50 | Estimate based on average fuel consumption for a chainsaw. |
Chainsaw Maintenance | \$3 | \$30 | Includes chain sharpening, air filter cleaning, and spark plug replacement. |
Wood Splitter Rental | \$10 | \$100 | Assuming you’re renting a wood splitter for \$100/day and you can split 10 cords in one day. |
Labor (Your Time) | \$30 | \$300 | Assigning a value to your own labor. Even if you’re not paying yourself, it’s important to consider the opportunity cost of your time. I’m estimating this at $30/cord based on the amount of time it will take to fell, limb, buck, split, and stack the wood. This is a highly variable cost depending on your efficiency and experience. |
Transportation | \$5 | \$50 | Cost of transporting the firewood from the cutting area to your storage location. |
Total Cost per Cord | \$63 | ||
Total Cost (10 Cords) | \$630 | This is a rough estimate. Your actual costs may vary depending on your specific circumstances. |
Pro Tip #4: Track Your Expenses
Keep detailed records of all your expenses. This will help you identify areas where you can cut costs and improve your profitability. I use a simple spreadsheet to track my expenses, but there are also many accounting software programs available that are specifically designed for small businesses.
Pro Tip #5: Consider the Value of Your Time
Even if you’re not paying yourself an hourly wage, it’s important to consider the value of your time. How much is your time worth? Could you be spending that time on other activities that would generate more income?
Data Point: According to a study by the University of Minnesota Extension, the average cost of producing a cord of firewood ranges from $100 to $200, depending on the location and the methods used. This highlights the importance of careful budgeting and cost management.
Actionable Takeaways and Next Steps
Mastering the choke on your STIHL chainsaw is just the first step in a journey of wood processing and firewood preparation. Here are a few actionable takeaways to help you succeed:
- Understand the Choke Symbol: Know the difference between full choke, half choke, and run positions.
- Practice Proper Starting Technique: Follow the step-by-step guide for quick starts.
- Troubleshoot Common Problems: Learn how to diagnose and fix common starting issues.
- Invest in Regular Maintenance: Keep your chainsaw in good working order to prevent problems.
- Budget Carefully: Track your expenses and identify areas where you can cut costs.
- Consider the Value of Your Time: Make sure your wood processing projects are worth your time and effort.
By following these tips, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a chainsaw pro and mastering the art of wood processing and firewood preparation. Remember, it’s not just about the destination; it’s about the journey. Enjoy the process, stay safe, and happy cutting!