Chainsaw To Cut Tree Safely (5 Pro Tips Every Logger Uses)

Chainsaw to Cut Tree Safely (5 Pro Tips Every Logger Uses)

I’ve spent years felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood. And let me tell you, the chainsaw is both your best friend and potentially your worst enemy in this line of work. Safety isn’t just a rule; it’s a way of life. I’ve seen firsthand what happens when corners are cut, and trust me, it’s never pretty. This guide isn’t just about using a chainsaw; it’s about using it safely and effectively. These aren’t just tips I picked up in a manual; they’re lessons hard-earned in the field, often learned the hard way. I’m sharing these pro tips to help you avoid the mistakes I made and get the job done right. Let’s dive into the five essential practices every logger relies on to ensure a safe and productive day in the woods.

1. Pre-Cut Inspection: The Foundation of Safe Felling

Before I even think about firing up my chainsaw, I perform a thorough inspection. This isn’t just a glance; it’s a methodical process that covers both the chainsaw and the tree itself. Think of it as your pre-flight checklist.

Chainsaw Inspection Checklist

Chain Sharpness and Tension: A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force, increases the risk of kickback, and makes for sloppy cuts. The chain should be properly sharpened (more on that later) and have the correct tension. I check the tension by pulling the chain away from the guide bar in the middle. You should be able to pull it out about 1/8 inch (3mm). If it pulls out further, the chain is too loose. If you can’t pull it out at all, it’s too tight. I usually sharpen my chain after every tank of gas, but that depends on the type of wood I’m cutting. Hardwoods like oak dull the chain much faster than softwoods like pine.
Bar Condition: Check the guide bar for wear and damage. Make sure the rails are smooth and even. A damaged bar can cause the chain to bind, leading to kickback. I also check the bar oiler to ensure it’s working correctly. A dry chain is a quickly ruined chain. I usually run a high-quality bar and chain oil, even if it costs a little more. It’s worth it in the long run.
Throttle and Chain Brake: The throttle should operate smoothly and return to idle when released. The chain brake should engage instantly when activated. Test both before each use. The chain brake is your first line of defense against kickback. Make sure you know how to use it instinctively.
Safety Features: Ensure all safety features are functioning correctly, including the chain catcher and anti-vibration system. These features might seem small, but they can make a big difference in preventing injuries and reducing fatigue.
Fuel and Oil Levels: Never start cutting with low fuel or bar oil. Running out of either mid-cut can be dangerous and damaging to the saw. I always carry extra fuel and oil with me in the woods.

Tree Assessment

Lean: Determine the direction the tree is leaning. This will influence your felling plan. A tree with a significant lean requires a different approach than a straight tree.
Branches: Identify any dead or hanging branches that could fall during the felling process. These “widowmakers” are a serious hazard. I always use a pole saw to remove any dangerous branches before starting the main cut.
Rot and Decay: Look for signs of rot or decay in the trunk and branches. Weakened wood can cause the tree to fall unexpectedly. I’ve seen trees that looked perfectly healthy on the outside collapse like cardboard due to internal rot.
Surrounding Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the area, such as other trees, power lines, or buildings. Make sure you have a clear escape path.
Wind Conditions: Be aware of wind conditions. Strong winds can significantly alter the direction of the fall. I won’t fell trees in high winds. It’s just not worth the risk.

Data Point: According to the U.S. Forest Service, nearly 40% of chainsaw accidents are due to improper maintenance or inspection of the equipment.

Practical Tip: Keep a logbook of your chainsaw maintenance. Record when you sharpen the chain, replace the bar, or perform other repairs. This will help you track the performance of your saw and identify potential problems before they become serious.

2. Mastering the Felling Cut: Precision and Control

The felling cut is where skill and knowledge truly meet. It’s not just about cutting through the tree; it’s about controlling where it falls. This involves a precise sequence of cuts: the notch, the back cut, and the use of wedges if needed.

The Notch (or Face Cut)

The notch determines the direction of the fall. It’s a wedge-shaped cut that should be approximately 70-80% of the tree’s diameter at the point of the cut. The notch consists of two cuts:

The Top Cut: This cut should be angled downward at approximately 45 degrees. The depth of the top cut should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
The Bottom Cut: This cut should be horizontal and meet the top cut precisely. This creates the hinge, which guides the tree as it falls.

Important Note: The accuracy of the notch is crucial. A poorly made notch can cause the tree to fall in the wrong direction, leading to serious injury or property damage.

Personal Experience: I once rushed a notch on a large oak and ended up with a hinge that was too short and uneven. The tree started to twist as it fell, and it nearly landed on my truck. I learned a valuable lesson that day: never compromise on precision.

The Back Cut

The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. It should be horizontal and approximately 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) above the bottom of the notch. The back cut should not meet the notch. Leaving a hinge of uncut wood is essential for controlling the fall.

Why the Hinge Matters: The hinge acts as a pivot point, guiding the tree as it falls. The width and thickness of the hinge determine the speed and direction of the fall. A wider hinge provides more control, while a thinner hinge allows the tree to fall more quickly.

Using Wedges: For larger trees or trees with a significant lean, wedges are essential. Wedges are inserted into the back cut to help push the tree over in the desired direction. I prefer using plastic or aluminum wedges, as they are less likely to damage the chainsaw chain if accidentally contacted. Steel wedges can cause dangerous sparks and damage the chain.

Wedge Placement: Insert the wedges into the back cut after making the initial cut. Drive them in gradually with a hammer or axe, alternating between wedges to ensure even pressure. Watch the tree carefully for any signs of movement. If the tree starts to crack or creak, it’s a sign that it’s about to fall.

Data Point: A study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) found that using wedges during felling reduces the risk of chainsaw kickback by up to 50%.

Practical Tip: Always have an escape route planned before starting the felling cut. Clear any obstacles from your path and be prepared to move quickly if the tree starts to fall unexpectedly. Your escape path should be at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated direction of the fall.

3. Limb Removal and Bucking: Safe and Efficient Techniques

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to remove the limbs and buck the trunk into manageable lengths. This process, while seemingly straightforward, still requires careful attention to safety and technique.

Limbing Techniques

Work from the Base to the Top: Start by removing the limbs closest to the base of the tree and work your way up. This allows you to work in a clear area and avoid being trapped by falling limbs.
Support the Limb: Before cutting a limb, make sure it is supported to prevent it from pinching the chainsaw. If the limb is resting on the ground, cut from the top down. If it is suspended in the air, cut from the bottom up.
Use the Correct Cutting Technique: For small limbs, a single cut may be sufficient. For larger limbs, use a three-cut method to prevent the bark from tearing. The three-cut method involves making an undercut, followed by an overcut slightly further out, and then a final cut to remove the limb.
Be Aware of Spring Poles: Spring poles are limbs that are bent under tension. They can snap back violently when cut, causing serious injury. To safely remove a spring pole, make a series of small cuts on the tension side of the limb until the tension is gradually released.

Personal Experience: I once underestimated the tension in a small spring pole and ended up with a nasty cut on my arm. It was a painful reminder that even seemingly harmless branches can be dangerous.

Bucking Techniques

Bucking is the process of cutting the trunk into shorter lengths. This is typically done for firewood or for transporting the logs.

Plan Your Cuts: Before you start bucking, plan your cuts to minimize waste and maximize efficiency. Consider the size and shape of the logs you need and the capacity of your firewood processor or transport vehicle.
Support the Log: Just like with limbing, it’s important to support the log before cutting to prevent it from pinching the chainsaw. Use log supports or other methods to keep the log stable.
Use the Correct Cutting Technique: The cutting technique will depend on how the log is supported. If the log is supported at both ends, cut from the top down. If it is supported in the middle, cut from the bottom up. If the log is resting on the ground, roll it over and cut from both sides.
Be Aware of Compression and Tension: Compression is the force that squeezes the wood fibers together, while tension is the force that pulls them apart. When bucking a log, it’s important to be aware of the forces at play to prevent the saw from binding. If the top of the log is under compression, cut from the bottom up. If the top of the log is under tension, cut from the top down.

Data Point: According to the American Logging Council, improper bucking techniques are a leading cause of chainsaw accidents.

Practical Tip: Invest in a good quality log jack. A log jack is a tool that lifts the log off the ground, making it easier and safer to buck. It also helps to prevent the chainsaw from contacting the ground, which can dull the chain and damage the saw.

4. Chainsaw Maintenance: Keeping Your Saw in Top Condition

A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. Regular maintenance is essential for prolonging the life of your saw and preventing accidents.

Daily Maintenance

Clean the Saw: After each use, clean the saw to remove sawdust, debris, and oil. Use a brush or compressed air to clean the air filter, cylinder fins, and chain brake mechanism.
Check the Chain: Inspect the chain for damage and sharpness. Sharpen the chain if necessary.
Check the Bar: Inspect the bar for wear and damage. Clean the bar groove and oil holes.
Check the Fuel and Oil Levels: Refill the fuel and bar oil tanks.

Weekly Maintenance

Clean the Air Filter: Remove the air filter and clean it with soap and water. Allow the filter to dry completely before reinstalling it. A clogged air filter can reduce engine performance and increase fuel consumption.
Inspect the Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug and inspect it for wear and damage. Clean or replace the spark plug as needed.
Check the Starter Rope: Inspect the starter rope for wear and damage. Replace the rope if necessary.
Grease the Sprocket: Grease the sprocket bearing to ensure smooth operation.

Monthly Maintenance

Sharpen the Chain: Sharpen the chain using a file or a chainsaw sharpener. Proper chain sharpening is crucial for safe and efficient cutting.
Check the Carburetor: Inspect the carburetor for leaks or damage. Adjust the carburetor if necessary.
Inspect the Fuel Lines: Inspect the fuel lines for cracks or leaks. Replace the fuel lines if necessary.

Chain Sharpening: The Key to Safe Cutting

A sharp chain is not only more efficient but also safer. A dull chain requires more force, which increases the risk of kickback and operator fatigue.

Use the Correct File: Use a round file that is the correct size for your chain. The file size will be specified in your chainsaw’s manual.
Maintain the Correct Angle: Maintain the correct filing angle, which is typically 25-30 degrees. Use a filing guide to ensure consistent results.
File Each Tooth Evenly: File each tooth evenly to ensure that the chain cuts straight.
Check the Depth Gauges: Check the depth gauges (also known as rakers) and file them down if necessary. The depth gauges control the amount of wood that each tooth can cut. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will be difficult to start and may cause kickback.

Data Point: A properly sharpened chain can reduce cutting time by up to 50% and fuel consumption by up to 20%.

Practical Tip: Invest in a good quality chainsaw sharpener. A chainsaw sharpener will make it easier and faster to sharpen your chain, and it will also help to ensure that you maintain the correct filing angle.

Material Specifications:

Wood Moisture Content for Firewood: Ideally, firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning. Hardwoods like oak take longer to dry than softwoods like pine.
- Hardwoods: 6-12 months drying time, depending on climate.
- Softwoods: 3-6 months drying time, depending on climate.
Bar Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil, as it is not designed to lubricate the chain properly.
Fuel: Use a fuel mixture that is recommended by the chainsaw manufacturer. Typically, this is a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke oil.

5. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Your Shield Against Injury

No discussion about chainsaw safety is complete without emphasizing the importance of personal protective equipment (PPE). PPE is your last line of defense against injury. Never operate a chainsaw without wearing the appropriate PPE.

Essential PPE

Helmet: A helmet protects your head from falling branches and other debris. Choose a helmet that meets ANSI Z89.1 standards.
Eye Protection: Eye protection is essential for protecting your eyes from sawdust and flying debris. Wear safety glasses or a face shield.
Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud and can cause permanent hearing damage. Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing.
Gloves: Gloves protect your hands from cuts, abrasions, and vibrations. Choose gloves that are made of durable material and provide a good grip.
Chainsaw Chaps or Pants: Chainsaw chaps or pants are designed to stop the chain in the event of a kickback. They are made of multiple layers of ballistic nylon that will jam the chain and prevent it from cutting through to your leg.
Boots: Boots provide support and protection for your feet and ankles. Choose boots that are made of durable material and have good traction. Steel-toed boots are recommended.

Personal Experience: I once had a close call when a small branch fell from a tree and struck my helmet. Without the helmet, I would have suffered a serious head injury. That experience reinforced the importance of wearing PPE at all times.

Additional Safety Considerations

First Aid Kit: Always carry a well-stocked first aid kit with you in the woods. Be prepared to treat cuts, abrasions, and other injuries.
Communication: Let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return. Carry a cell phone or two-way radio in case of an emergency.
Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated, especially in hot weather. Dehydration can lead to fatigue and impaired judgment.
Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue. Fatigue can increase the risk of accidents.
Know Your Limits: Don’t attempt to do more than you are capable of. If you are tired or uncomfortable, stop working and take a break.

Data Point: According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), wearing appropriate PPE can reduce the risk of chainsaw injuries by up to 80%.

Practical Tip: Develop a routine for putting on your PPE before each use. Make it a habit to check your equipment before you start working to ensure that it is in good condition.

Tool Requirements:

Chainsaw Calibration: Ensure your chainsaw is properly calibrated according to the manufacturer’s specifications. This includes adjusting the carburetor and idle speed.
Filing Guide: Use a filing guide to maintain the correct filing angle when sharpening the chain.
Depth Gauge Tool: Use a depth gauge tool to check and adjust the depth gauges on the chain.
Log Jack: A log jack is a valuable tool for lifting logs off the ground for bucking.
Wedges: Use plastic or aluminum wedges to help fell trees in the desired direction.

Case Study: Improving Firewood Production Safety

I once consulted with a small firewood production company that had a high rate of chainsaw accidents. After conducting a thorough assessment of their operations, I identified several key areas for improvement:

Lack of PPE: Many workers were not wearing appropriate PPE, including helmets, eye protection, and chainsaw chaps.
Inadequate Training: Workers were not properly trained in safe chainsaw operating techniques.
Poor Maintenance: Chainsaws were not being properly maintained, leading to dull chains and other mechanical problems.
Unsafe Work Practices: Workers were engaging in unsafe work practices, such as cutting overhead limbs without proper support.

Technical Details of Implementation:

Conclusion

Using a chainsaw safely requires a combination of knowledge, skill, and discipline. By following these five pro tips, you can significantly reduce your risk of injury and get the job done safely and efficiently. Remember, safety is not just a rule; it’s a way of life. Always prioritize safety, and never compromise on your well-being. The woods are a beautiful but unforgiving place. Respect the power of the chainsaw, and always be prepared for the unexpected. Be safe out there.

Chainsaw to Cut Tree Safely (5 Pro Tips Every Logger Uses)