Chainsaw Starter Tips (5 Pro Fixes for Hard Pull After Storage)
It’s a familiar scenario for many of us who rely on chainsaws: you pull your saw out of storage, eager to tackle a project, only to be met with a frustratingly stubborn starter cord. That “hard pull” – sometimes feeling like you’re trying to start a concrete block – can be incredibly discouraging. It’s a common problem, and one I’ve battled countless times over my years working with wood, from felling trees in the backwoods to prepping firewood for the winter. I’ve learned that a hard-pulling chainsaw after storage isn’t just an inconvenience; it’s a symptom of underlying issues that, if ignored, can lead to more serious problems and costly repairs. In this guide, I’m going to share the five pro fixes I’ve consistently used to revive even the most reluctant chainsaws, ensuring they start smoothly and reliably every time.
Chainsaw Starter Tips: 5 Pro Fixes for Hard Pull After Storage
I’ve been working with chainsaws for over 20 years, using them for everything from selective logging on my own property to helping friends clear storm damage. I’ve seen firsthand how improper storage and lack of maintenance can turn a dependable saw into a frustrating paperweight. This isn’t just about getting your chainsaw started; it’s about extending its life, improving its performance, and ensuring your safety. Let’s dive into the five pro fixes I rely on.
1. Fuel System Check and Refresh
The most common culprit behind a hard-pulling chainsaw is stale fuel. Gasoline, especially when mixed with two-stroke oil, degrades over time. This degradation can lead to gumming up of the carburetor, fuel lines, and fuel filter, making it incredibly difficult for the engine to draw fuel and start.
Key Concepts:
- Fuel Degradation: Gasoline begins to degrade as soon as it’s exposed to air and light. This process is accelerated when mixed with two-stroke oil.
- Carburetor Function: The carburetor is responsible for mixing air and fuel in the correct ratio for combustion. Gummed-up components disrupt this process.
- Fuel Filter Importance: The fuel filter prevents debris from entering the carburetor, protecting it from damage.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Drain the Old Fuel: This is crucial. Don’t even attempt to start the saw with fuel that’s been sitting for more than a month or two. I use a siphon pump to remove the old fuel from the tank. Dispose of it responsibly at a hazardous waste collection center.
- Inspect the Fuel Lines: Check the fuel lines for cracks, brittleness, or swelling. These are signs that the fuel lines are deteriorating and need replacement. I typically replace fuel lines every couple of years as preventative maintenance. A good quality fuel line is inexpensive and can save you a lot of headaches. Use fuel lines specifically designed for two-stroke engines, as they are resistant to the corrosive effects of the oil mixture.
- Clean or Replace the Fuel Filter: Locate the fuel filter inside the fuel tank, usually attached to the end of the fuel line. Carefully remove it. If it’s just slightly dirty, you can try cleaning it with carburetor cleaner. However, I usually just replace it. New fuel filters are inexpensive and ensure a clean fuel supply. Make sure to use the correct size and type of fuel filter for your chainsaw model.
- Carburetor Cleaning (If Necessary): If the chainsaw still won’t start after replacing the fuel and filter, the carburetor may be clogged. This requires a more involved cleaning process.
- Remove the Air Filter: This will give you access to the carburetor.
- Spray Carburetor Cleaner: Spray carburetor cleaner directly into the carburetor throat while attempting to start the saw. This can sometimes dislodge minor blockages.
- Carburetor Disassembly (Advanced): If spraying doesn’t work, you may need to disassemble the carburetor for a thorough cleaning. This is best left to experienced users or professionals, as carburetors are complex and contain small, easily lost parts. I recommend watching a few YouTube videos specific to your carburetor model before attempting this. Use carburetor cleaner and compressed air to clean all the jets and passages. Pay close attention to the pilot jet, which is often the culprit in starting problems.
- Refuel with Fresh Fuel: Use fresh, high-quality gasoline with the correct two-stroke oil mixture ratio as specified by your chainsaw manufacturer. I always use premium gasoline (91 octane or higher) and a high-quality synthetic two-stroke oil. This helps to prevent carbon buildup and extends the life of the engine. I also add a fuel stabilizer to the gasoline to help prevent it from degrading during storage.
- Prime the Carburetor: Most chainsaws have a priming bulb. Press it several times until you see fuel flowing through the clear fuel line. This ensures that the carburetor is filled with fuel.
Tool Specifications:
- Siphon pump: Small hand pump, available at most auto parts stores.
- Carburetor cleaner: Aerosol spray, specifically designed for cleaning carburetors.
- Compressed air: Used to blow out debris from the carburetor.
- Screwdrivers: Various sizes, for removing air filters and carburetor components.
- Pliers: For removing fuel lines and fuel filters.
Measurements and Statistics:
- Two-stroke oil mixture ratio: Typically 50:1 (gasoline to oil), but always consult your chainsaw’s manual.
- Fuel storage time: Gasoline starts to degrade after 30 days.
- Fuel filter replacement interval: Recommended every year, or more often if the fuel is dirty.
Case Study:
I had a Stihl MS 271 that had been sitting in my shed for about six months. When I tried to start it, it wouldn’t even sputter. I drained the old fuel, replaced the fuel filter, and refueled with fresh gas and oil. Still nothing. I then disassembled the carburetor and found that the pilot jet was completely clogged with varnish. After cleaning the jet with carburetor cleaner and compressed air, the saw started on the second pull. This experience reinforced the importance of using fresh fuel and cleaning the carburetor regularly.
Benefits and Strategic Advantages:
- Ensures reliable starting.
- Prevents damage to the carburetor.
- Extends the life of the engine.
- Improves engine performance.
Costs:
- Fuel filter: $5 – $10
- Carburetor cleaner: $5 – $10
- Fuel stabilizer: $5 – $10
- Fuel lines: $10 – $20
Skill Level Required:
- Draining fuel and replacing fuel filter: Beginner
- Carburetor cleaning: Intermediate to Advanced
2. Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement
A faulty spark plug is another common cause of hard starting. The spark plug is responsible for igniting the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder. If it’s fouled, cracked, or worn, it may not produce a strong enough spark to start the engine.
Key Concepts:
- Spark Plug Function: The spark plug creates an electrical spark that ignites the air-fuel mixture.
- Spark Plug Fouling: Carbon deposits can build up on the spark plug, preventing it from firing properly.
- Spark Plug Gap: The gap between the spark plug electrodes must be within the manufacturer’s specifications for optimal performance.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Locate the Spark Plug: The spark plug is usually located on the side of the engine, near the cylinder head.
- Remove the Spark Plug Boot: Carefully pull the spark plug boot off the spark plug.
- Remove the Spark Plug: Use a spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug.
- Inspect the Spark Plug: Check the spark plug for cracks, carbon deposits, or wear. A healthy spark plug should have a light tan or gray color. If the spark plug is black and oily, it indicates a rich-running condition. If it’s white and powdery, it indicates a lean-running condition.
- Clean or Replace the Spark Plug: If the spark plug is only slightly fouled, you can try cleaning it with a wire brush. However, I usually just replace it. New spark plugs are inexpensive and ensure reliable ignition.
- Check the Spark Plug Gap: Use a spark plug gap tool to check the gap between the spark plug electrodes. The gap should be within the manufacturer’s specifications. Adjust the gap if necessary.
- Install the Spark Plug: Carefully install the spark plug and tighten it to the manufacturer’s specifications. Do not overtighten.
- Reattach the Spark Plug Boot: Reattach the spark plug boot to the spark plug.
Tool Specifications:
- Spark plug wrench: Socket wrench specifically designed for spark plugs.
- Spark plug gap tool: Used to measure and adjust the spark plug gap.
- Wire brush: For cleaning carbon deposits from the spark plug.
Measurements and Statistics:
- Spark plug gap: Typically 0.020 – 0.030 inches, but always consult your chainsaw’s manual.
- Spark plug replacement interval: Recommended every year, or more often if the chainsaw is used frequently.
Case Study:
I was helping a friend clear some brush after a storm. His chainsaw, a Husqvarna 455 Rancher, was running rough and hard to start. I checked the spark plug and found that it was heavily fouled with carbon deposits. I replaced the spark plug with a new one, and the saw started right up and ran smoothly. This experience highlighted the importance of regular spark plug maintenance.
Benefits and Strategic Advantages:
- Ensures reliable ignition.
- Improves engine performance.
- Reduces fuel consumption.
- Extends the life of the engine.
Costs:
- Spark plug: $5 – $10
- Spark plug gap tool: $5 – $10
Skill Level Required:
- Spark plug inspection and replacement: Beginner
3. Recoil Starter Mechanism Inspection and Lubrication
The recoil starter mechanism is responsible for turning the engine over when you pull the starter cord. Over time, the spring-loaded mechanism can become stiff or damaged, making it difficult to pull the cord.
Key Concepts:
- Recoil Starter Function: The recoil starter uses a spring-loaded mechanism to turn the engine over when the starter cord is pulled.
- Pawls: Pawls engage with the flywheel to turn the engine over.
- Spring Tension: The spring tension in the recoil starter mechanism provides the force needed to retract the starter cord.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Remove the Starter Housing: Remove the screws that hold the starter housing to the chainsaw.
- Inspect the Starter Rope: Check the starter rope for fraying or damage. Replace the rope if necessary. I use a high-quality nylon rope specifically designed for recoil starters.
- Inspect the Pawls: Check the pawls for wear or damage. The pawls should move freely and engage with the flywheel. If the pawls are worn or damaged, replace them.
- Lubricate the Mechanism: Lubricate the recoil starter mechanism with a light oil or silicone lubricant. Pay particular attention to the pawls and the spring.
- Check the Spring Tension: If the starter cord retracts slowly, the spring tension may be weak. You can try tightening the spring by winding it a few turns. However, be careful not to overtighten the spring, as this can damage it. If the spring is broken or severely weakened, replace it.
- Reassemble the Starter Housing: Reassemble the starter housing and tighten the screws.
Tool Specifications:
- Screwdrivers: Various sizes, for removing the starter housing.
- Pliers: For removing and replacing the starter rope.
- Light oil or silicone lubricant: For lubricating the recoil starter mechanism.
Measurements and Statistics:
- Starter rope length: Varies depending on the chainsaw model.
- Spring tension: Should be strong enough to retract the starter cord quickly and smoothly.
Case Study:
I had a chainsaw that was becoming increasingly difficult to start. The starter cord was retracting slowly, and it took several pulls to get the engine to turn over. I removed the starter housing and found that the pawls were sticking and the spring was weak. I lubricated the mechanism and tightened the spring. This improved the starting performance, but the starter cord still retracted slowly. I eventually replaced the spring, and the saw started easily and the starter cord retracted quickly and smoothly. This experience taught me the importance of maintaining the recoil starter mechanism.
Benefits and Strategic Advantages:
- Makes the chainsaw easier to start.
- Extends the life of the recoil starter mechanism.
- Reduces the risk of damaging the engine.
Costs:
- Starter rope: $5 – $10
- Pawls: $5 – $10
- Spring: $10 – $20
- Light oil or silicone lubricant: $5 – $10
Skill Level Required:
- Recoil starter mechanism inspection and lubrication: Intermediate
4. Compression Test
Low compression can also make a chainsaw difficult to start. Compression is the pressure created in the cylinder when the piston moves up and compresses the air-fuel mixture. If the compression is low, the engine may not be able to ignite the mixture.
Key Concepts:
- Compression Ratio: The compression ratio is the ratio of the cylinder volume at the bottom of the stroke to the cylinder volume at the top of the stroke.
- Compression Loss: Compression loss can be caused by worn piston rings, damaged cylinder walls, or leaky valves.
- Two-Stroke Engine Compression: Two-stroke engines rely on the piston skirt to cover and uncover intake and exhaust ports, so piston and cylinder wear are critical.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Remove the Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug as described in Section 2.
- Insert the Compression Tester: Insert the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Make sure it’s securely seated.
- Pull the Starter Cord: Pull the starter cord several times until the compression gauge stops rising.
- Read the Compression Gauge: Read the compression gauge to determine the compression pressure.
- Compare to Specifications: Compare the compression pressure to the manufacturer’s specifications. If the compression is below the minimum specification, there may be a problem with the engine.
Tool Specifications:
- Compression tester: A gauge used to measure the compression pressure in the cylinder.
Measurements and Statistics:
- Compression pressure: Varies depending on the chainsaw model. Typically 100-150 PSI. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct specification.
- Acceptable range: A healthy engine should have compression within 10% of the specified value.
Case Study:
I was working on an old Poulan chainsaw that had been sitting in a garage for years. It was extremely hard to start, and when it did start, it ran very poorly. I performed a compression test and found that the compression was only 80 PSI, well below the minimum specification. I disassembled the engine and found that the piston rings were worn and the cylinder walls were scored. The engine needed a complete overhaul. This experience demonstrated the importance of performing a compression test to diagnose engine problems.
Benefits and Strategic Advantages:
- Helps diagnose engine problems.
- Prevents unnecessary repairs.
- Extends the life of the engine.
Costs:
- Compression tester: $20 – $50
Skill Level Required:
- Compression test: Intermediate
Important Considerations:
- A low compression reading doesn’t always mean the engine is beyond repair. Sometimes, a simple decarbonizing procedure can restore compression.
- If you’re not comfortable performing a compression test yourself, take the chainsaw to a qualified mechanic.
5. Air Filter Cleaning or Replacement
A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine, which can make it difficult to start and cause it to run poorly. The air filter prevents dust and debris from entering the carburetor and engine.
Key Concepts:
- Air Filter Function: The air filter cleans the air before it enters the engine.
- Restricted Airflow: A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine.
- Air-Fuel Mixture: A restricted airflow can cause the engine to run rich (too much fuel, not enough air).
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Locate the Air Filter: The air filter is usually located under a cover on the side or top of the engine.
- Remove the Air Filter Cover: Remove the screws or clips that hold the air filter cover in place.
- Remove the Air Filter: Remove the air filter.
- Inspect the Air Filter: Check the air filter for dirt and debris.
- Clean or Replace the Air Filter: If the air filter is only slightly dirty, you can try cleaning it with compressed air or warm soapy water. Allow it to dry completely before reinstalling. However, if the air filter is heavily soiled or damaged, replace it. I recommend replacing the air filter every year, or more often if the chainsaw is used in dusty conditions.
- Reinstall the Air Filter: Reinstall the air filter and the air filter cover.
Tool Specifications:
- Compressed air: Used to clean the air filter.
- Warm soapy water: Used to clean the air filter.
- Screwdrivers: Various sizes, for removing the air filter cover.
Measurements and Statistics:
- Air filter replacement interval: Recommended every year, or more often if the chainsaw is used in dusty conditions.
Case Study:
I was using my chainsaw to cut firewood on a windy day. The air was full of dust and debris. After a few hours of cutting, the chainsaw started to run poorly and was difficult to start. I checked the air filter and found that it was completely clogged with dust. I cleaned the air filter with compressed air, and the chainsaw started right up and ran smoothly. This experience showed me how important it is to clean the air filter regularly, especially when using the chainsaw in dusty conditions.
Benefits and Strategic Advantages:
- Ensures proper airflow to the engine.
- Improves engine performance.
- Reduces fuel consumption.
- Extends the life of the engine.
Costs:
- Air filter: $5 – $15
- Compressed air: Included in most workshops
Skill Level Required:
- Air filter cleaning or replacement: Beginner
Beyond the Basics: Storage Considerations
While these five fixes address the immediate problem of a hard-pulling chainsaw, preventative measures are crucial for long-term reliability. Proper storage is paramount.
- Empty the Fuel Tank: I always recommend emptying the fuel tank before storing the chainsaw for an extended period. This prevents fuel degradation and carburetor gumming. If you don’t want to empty the tank, use a fuel stabilizer.
- Run the Carburetor Dry: After emptying the fuel tank, start the chainsaw and let it run until it stalls. This ensures that the carburetor is empty of fuel.
- Remove the Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug and pour a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder. Pull the starter cord a few times to distribute the oil. This helps to prevent corrosion.
- Clean the Chainsaw: Clean the chainsaw thoroughly, removing any dirt, sawdust, or oil.
- Store in a Dry Place: Store the chainsaw in a dry place, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.
Strategic Insights:
- Invest in Quality Tools: Don’t skimp on tools. A good quality spark plug wrench, compression tester, and carburetor cleaning kit will save you time and frustration in the long run.
- Follow the Manufacturer’s Recommendations: Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for fuel mixture, spark plug gap, and maintenance intervals.
- Keep a Log: Keep a log of all maintenance performed on your chainsaw. This will help you track when to perform routine maintenance and identify potential problems early.
- Learn from Experienced Users: Talk to other chainsaw users and learn from their experiences. There are many online forums and communities dedicated to chainsaw maintenance and repair.
Next Steps:
Now that you have a solid understanding of the common causes of hard-pulling chainsaws and how to fix them, it’s time to put your knowledge into practice. Start by inspecting your chainsaw and identifying any potential problems. Then, follow the step-by-step guides outlined in this article to address those problems. Remember to be patient, methodical, and always prioritize safety. With a little bit of effort, you can keep your chainsaw running smoothly for years to come.
Final Thoughts:
Chainsaws are powerful and essential tools, but they require regular maintenance to perform reliably. By understanding the common causes of hard starting and following the tips outlined in this article, you can keep your chainsaw in top condition and avoid the frustration of a stubborn starter cord. Remember, a well-maintained chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. And always wear appropriate safety gear, including eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and sturdy footwear, when operating a chainsaw. Stay safe, and happy cutting!
