Chainsaw Skip Chain Benefits (5 Pro Tips for Bigger Logs)

I’ve seen it happen countless times: a homeowner, eager to tackle a fallen tree in their yard, grabs their chainsaw, revs it up, and… the chain bogs down, smokes, and struggles to cut through the wood. Often, the problem isn’t the chainsaw itself, but the chain. Specifically, using a standard full-complement chain on larger diameter logs. This is where the skip chain comes in, and understanding its benefits can transform your woodcutting experience. In this article, I’m going to share my pro tips on chainsaw skip chain benefits for bigger logs.

Chainsaw Skip Chain Benefits (5 Pro Tips for Bigger Logs)

For years, I’ve worked with wood, from felling trees in the Pacific Northwest to processing firewood for the long winters in Maine. I’ve seen firsthand the difference the right tools and techniques can make. The skip chain is one of those tools that, when used correctly, can significantly improve your chainsaw’s performance, especially when dealing with larger logs.

What is a Chainsaw Skip Chain?

Let’s start with the basics. A standard chainsaw chain, often referred to as a full-complement chain, has a cutting tooth on every link (or nearly every link) along the chain. A skip chain, on the other hand, has fewer cutting teeth. Think of it as missing every other tooth. This “skip” creates a larger gap between the teeth.

• Full-Complement Chain: Cutting tooth on almost every link.
• Skip Chain: Cutting tooth, drive link, tie strap, drive link, skip, cutting tooth.

This difference in design has a profound impact on how the chain cuts, especially in larger logs.

Why Use a Skip Chain?

The primary advantage of a skip chain is that it reduces the load on the chainsaw engine. With fewer teeth biting into the wood, the engine doesn’t have to work as hard. This translates to several benefits:

• Increased Cutting Speed: The engine can maintain higher RPMs, leading to faster cutting, particularly in larger diameter logs. The reduced friction and increased chip clearance allows the saw to rip through wood that would bog down a full-complement chain.
• Reduced Engine Strain: Less strain on the engine means less wear and tear, potentially extending the life of your chainsaw. Overheating is a common problem when processing large logs; a skip chain helps mitigate this.
• Improved Chip Clearance: The larger gaps between the teeth allow for better chip ejection, preventing the chain from getting clogged, especially when cutting softwoods like pine or fir. This is crucial for maintaining a clean and efficient cut.
• Ideal for Long Bars: Skip chains are particularly effective when used with longer chainsaw bars (20 inches or more). The longer the bar, the more power is required to pull the chain through the wood. A skip chain reduces this power requirement.
• Easier to Sharpen: With fewer teeth, sharpening becomes a quicker and less tedious task.

Pro Tip #1: Matching the Skip Chain to Your Chainsaw

Not every chainsaw is suitable for a skip chain. It’s crucial to match the chain to your saw’s engine size and bar length.

• Engine Size: Skip chains are generally recommended for chainsaws with engine sizes of 50cc or larger. Smaller saws may not have enough power to effectively utilize the skip chain’s increased chip clearance. I’ve tried using a skip chain on a 45cc saw, and while it did cut, the performance wasn’t significantly better than a full-complement chain, and the cut was noticeably rougher.
• Bar Length: As mentioned earlier, skip chains are ideal for longer bars. If you’re using a bar shorter than 20 inches, a full-complement chain might be a better choice. The shorter bar length doesn’t require as much power, and the full-complement chain will provide a smoother cut.
• Chain Pitch and Gauge: Ensure the skip chain matches the pitch and gauge of your chainsaw. The pitch is the distance between three rivets divided by two, and the gauge is the thickness of the drive links. These specifications are usually stamped on the chainsaw bar. For example, a common pitch is 3/8″, and a common gauge is .050″. Using the wrong pitch or gauge can damage your chainsaw and the chain itself.

Example: I use a Stihl MS 462 (72.2cc) with a 25-inch bar. A skip chain with a 3/8″ pitch and .050″ gauge works perfectly on this setup, allowing me to efficiently process large oak logs.

Pro Tip #2: Wood Type and Condition

The type and condition of the wood you’re cutting also play a crucial role in determining whether a skip chain is the right choice.

• Softwoods vs. Hardwoods: Skip chains excel in softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar. Softwoods tend to produce larger chips, and the skip chain’s improved chip clearance prevents clogging. In hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory, a skip chain can still be beneficial, especially for larger diameter logs, but the cut might be slightly rougher.
• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood, which has a high moisture content, tends to produce more chips and is generally easier to cut than seasoned wood. A skip chain is particularly useful for cutting green wood, as it helps clear the excess chips. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, is denser and can be more challenging to cut. While a skip chain can still provide benefits, a sharp full-complement chain might be a better option for achieving a smoother cut.
• Dirty or Bark-Covered Wood: If you’re cutting wood that’s dirty or covered in bark, a skip chain can help prevent the chain from dulling as quickly. The fewer teeth mean less contact with the abrasive dirt and bark. However, it’s always best to clean the wood as much as possible before cutting.

Case Study: I once had a contract to clear a plot of land overgrown with pine trees. The trees were freshly cut (green wood) and covered in dirt. Using a skip chain on my Husqvarna 372XP (70.7cc) with a 24-inch bar allowed me to efficiently cut through the trees without constantly stopping to clean the chain. The skip chain significantly increased my productivity.

Pro Tip #3: Mastering the Cutting Technique

Using a skip chain effectively requires a slightly different cutting technique than using a full-complement chain.

• Let the Chain Do the Work: Avoid forcing the chainsaw through the wood. Let the chain do the work. Apply gentle pressure and allow the teeth to bite into the wood. Forcing the saw can cause the chain to bind or kickback.
• Maintain a Consistent Speed: Maintain a consistent speed throughout the cut. Avoid jerky movements, as this can lead to a rough cut and increase the risk of kickback.
• Plunge Cutting: When plunge cutting (inserting the tip of the bar into the wood), be extra cautious. Skip chains can be more prone to kickback during plunge cuts. Use the correct technique (starting with the bottom of the bar) and maintain a firm grip on the saw.
• Boring Cuts: Skip chains are excellent for boring cuts, where you drill a hole through the log. The improved chip clearance prevents the chain from clogging in the confined space.
• “Kerf” Management: The kerf is the width of the cut created by the chain. Skip chains can sometimes produce a wider kerf than full-complement chains, especially in hardwoods. Be mindful of this when making precise cuts.

Personal Experience: I remember one time when I was cutting a large oak log with a skip chain. I got impatient and started forcing the saw through the wood. The chain bound up, and the saw kicked back violently. Luckily, I was wearing proper safety gear (helmet, eye protection, ear protection, chaps), and I wasn’t injured. This experience taught me the importance of letting the chain do the work and maintaining a firm grip on the saw.

Pro Tip #4: Chain Sharpening and Maintenance

Proper chain sharpening and maintenance are crucial for maximizing the performance of your skip chain.

• Sharpening Frequency: Skip chains generally require more frequent sharpening than full-complement chains. The fewer teeth mean each tooth is doing more work, and they dull more quickly. I recommend sharpening your skip chain after every two or three tanks of gas, or more frequently if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
• Sharpening Angle and Depth: Maintain the correct sharpening angle and depth for your chain. The correct angle is usually stamped on the chainsaw bar or in the owner’s manual. Use a file guide to ensure consistent sharpening.
• Raker (Depth Gauge) Adjustment: The rakers, also known as depth gauges, control how much the teeth bite into the wood. If the rakers are too high, the chain won’t cut effectively. If they’re too low, the chain will grab and kickback. Use a raker gauge to maintain the correct raker height. I typically lower the rakers slightly more on a skip chain than a full-complement chain to compensate for the fewer teeth. As a starting point, try lowering the rakers by .025 inches.
• Chain Tension: Maintain the correct chain tension. A loose chain can jump off the bar, while a tight chain can overheat and wear out quickly. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
• Chain Lubrication: Proper chain lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chain and bar. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil and check the oil level frequently. I prefer using a vegetable-based bar and chain oil, as it’s more environmentally friendly.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw File: 5/32″ or 7/32″ diameter (depending on chain pitch)
• File Guide: Adjustable angle for consistent sharpening
• Raker Gauge: To measure and adjust raker height
• Depth Gauge Tool: Flat file for lowering rakers
• Bar and Chain Oil: High-quality, vegetable-based oil

Pro Tip #5: Safety First!

Safety is paramount when using a chainsaw, regardless of the type of chain.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear the following PPE when operating a chainsaw:
  • Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and kickback.
  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying debris.
  • Ear Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
  • Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental contact with the chain.
  • Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and accidental contact with the chain.
• Safe Cutting Practices:
  • Clear the Work Area: Remove any obstacles that could trip you or interfere with your cutting.
  • Stable Footing: Ensure you have stable footing before starting the saw.
  • Firm Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands.
  • Avoid Cutting Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and increases the risk of kickback.
  • Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a sudden and forceful movement of the chainsaw bar back towards the operator. Be aware of the kickback zone (the upper quadrant of the bar tip) and avoid contact with it.
  • Never Cut Alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
  • First-Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first-aid kit readily available.
• Chainsaw Inspection: Before each use, inspect your chainsaw for any damage or wear. Check the chain tension, oil level, and throttle response.

Relevant Statistics: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), chainsaws cause approximately 30,000 injuries each year in the United States. Most of these injuries are preventable by following proper safety precautions.

Skip Chain vs. Full-Complement Chain: A Quick Comparison

Drying Firewood: An Important Consideration

After cutting your logs, proper drying is essential for efficient burning.

• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood has a high moisture content (50% or more), while seasoned wood has a lower moisture content (20% or less). Burning green wood produces less heat, more smoke, and can contribute to creosote buildup in your chimney.
• Drying Methods:
  • Air Drying: The most common method is to split the wood and stack it in a well-ventilated area. Allow the wood to dry for at least six months, and preferably a year or more.
  • Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a faster method that uses heat to remove moisture from the wood. Kiln-dried firewood is typically more expensive but burns cleaner and more efficiently.
• Stacking Techniques:
  • Elevated Stacks: Stack the wood on pallets or other materials to keep it off the ground and improve air circulation.
  • Loose Stacks: Avoid tightly packed stacks, as this can restrict airflow.
  • Covered Stacks: Cover the top of the stack to protect the wood from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for ventilation.
• Moisture Content Targets: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning. Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood.

Material Specs:

• Firewood Moisture Meter: Measures moisture content in wood (target: <20%)
• Pallets: For elevating firewood stacks
• Tarps: For covering firewood stacks

Timing Estimates: Air drying typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the climate and wood type.

Some wood types burn hotter and longer than others.

• Hardwoods: Hardwoods like oak, maple, hickory, and ash are the best choices for firewood. They are dense, burn hot, and produce long-lasting coals.
• Softwoods: Softwoods like pine, fir, and cedar burn faster and produce less heat than hardwoods. They are also more prone to sparking and throwing embers. Softwoods are best used for kindling or starting fires.
• Avoid Treated Wood: Never burn treated wood, as it can release harmful chemicals into the air.

Original Insights: In my experience, oak is the king of firewood. It burns hot and long, and the coals are excellent for maintaining a fire overnight. However, oak takes a long time to dry. Maple is a good alternative, as it dries faster and still provides good heat.

Case Study: Processing and Stacking Firewood for Winter

Every fall, I spend several weeks processing and stacking firewood for the winter. Here’s a breakdown of my process:

1. Felling Trees: I start by felling trees that are dead, dying, or pose a hazard. I use a Stihl MS 462 with a 25-inch bar and a skip chain for felling larger trees.
2. Bucking Logs: I buck the logs into firewood-length pieces (typically 16-18 inches).
3. Splitting Wood: I use a hydraulic log splitter to split the wood. A 25-ton splitter is sufficient for most firewood.
4. Stacking Firewood: I stack the split wood on pallets in a well-ventilated area. I leave gaps between the rows for airflow.
5. Covering Firewood: I cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
6. Drying Time: I allow the wood to dry for at least one year before burning it.
7. Moisture Testing: Before burning, I use a moisture meter to ensure the wood has a moisture content of 20% or less.

Benefits: This process ensures I have a reliable supply of dry, seasoned firewood for the winter. The hydraulic log splitter significantly reduces the amount of manual labor required, and the skip chain allows me to efficiently process larger logs.

Strategic Advantages of Using a Hydraulic Log Splitter

While a manual log splitter can be used, a hydraulic log splitter provides significant advantages:

• Increased Efficiency: Hydraulic splitters can split logs much faster than manual splitters, saving you time and energy.
• Reduced Physical Strain: Hydraulic splitters require less physical effort, reducing the risk of injury.
• Splitting Larger Logs: Hydraulic splitters can split larger and more difficult-to-split logs than manual splitters.
• Adjustable Splitting Force: Many hydraulic splitters have adjustable splitting force, allowing you to customize the splitting force to the size and type of wood.

Cost: Hydraulic log splitters range in price from $1,000 to $3,000, depending on the size and features. While the initial investment is higher than a manual splitter, the increased efficiency and reduced physical strain make it a worthwhile investment for anyone who processes a lot of firewood.

Next Steps: Implementing Skip Chains in Your Wood Processing

Now that you understand the benefits of skip chains, here are some practical next steps:

1. Assess Your Chainsaw: Determine if your chainsaw is suitable for a skip chain based on its engine size and bar length.
2. Choose the Right Chain: Select a skip chain that matches the pitch and gauge of your chainsaw.
3. Learn Proper Sharpening Techniques: Practice sharpening your skip chain using a file guide and raker gauge.
4. Experiment with Cutting Techniques: Try different cutting techniques to find what works best for you and your chainsaw.
5. Prioritize Safety: Always wear proper PPE and follow safe cutting practices.
6. Consider Wood Type and Condition: Factor in the type and condition of the wood you’re cutting when deciding whether to use a skip chain.
7. Dry Your Firewood Properly: Split and stack your firewood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry for at least six months.
8. Invest in a Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to ensure your firewood is dry before burning it.
9. Continuous Learning: Continue to learn and improve your wood processing skills. Attend workshops, read books, and watch videos to expand your knowledge.

By following these tips, you can harness the power of skip chains to efficiently and safely process larger logs and prepare firewood for the winter. Remember, the right tools and techniques can make all the difference in your woodcutting experience.

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