Chainsaw Pull Cord Hard to Pull (5 Expert Fixes for Stihl 290)

There’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of a well-stocked woodpile, ready to fend off the chill of winter. But that satisfaction quickly fades when you’re wrestling with a chainsaw that refuses to cooperate. I’ve been there – pulling and pulling, feeling my shoulder scream, and wondering if I’d be better off just buying an electric heater. It’s especially frustrating when you’re relying on your trusty Stihl 290, a workhorse known for its reliability. A hard-to-pull cord can turn a productive afternoon into a frustrating ordeal. So, if you find yourself fighting with your Stihl 290’s pull cord, don’t throw in the towel just yet. I’m here to share some expert fixes that have saved me countless headaches and kept my wood-splitting operation running smoothly. Let’s dive into troubleshooting that stubborn pull cord, and get you back to making firewood, not fighting your equipment.

Chainsaw Pull Cord Hard to Pull: 5 Expert Fixes for Your Stihl 290

A hard-to-pull chainsaw cord on a Stihl 290 is a common problem, but it’s usually fixable with a little troubleshooting. From my experience, it’s often a combination of factors rather than one single culprit. Over the years, I’ve learned to approach this methodically, eliminating potential issues one by one.

1. Check the Spark Plug

The spark plug is the ignition point of your chainsaw, and if it’s fouled, damaged, or incorrectly gapped, it can cause significant starting problems, including a hard-to-pull cord. This is because a bad spark plug can create excessive resistance within the engine, making it harder to turn over.

• Why It Matters: A properly functioning spark plug ensures efficient combustion. Incorrect combustion can lead to increased internal pressure, making the engine harder to crank.

• How to Check It:

  1. Safety First: Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug.
  2. Visual Inspection: Remove the spark plug using a spark plug wrench. Look for signs of damage, carbon buildup, or excessive wear. A healthy spark plug should have a clean, light brown insulator.
  3. Gap Check: Use a spark plug gapping tool to ensure the gap is within the manufacturer’s specifications. For the Stihl 290, the recommended spark plug gap is typically between 0.5 mm and 0.65 mm (0.020 inches and 0.026 inches). I always aim for the middle of this range, around 0.023 inches.
  4. Cleaning (If Necessary): If the spark plug is fouled with carbon, carefully clean it using a wire brush. You can also use a spark plug cleaner, if you have one.
  5. Testing (Optional): A spark plug tester can be used to check if the spark plug is producing a strong spark.
  6. Reinstallation: Reinstall the spark plug, tightening it to the manufacturer’s specified torque (usually around 15-20 Nm or 11-15 ft-lbs). If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten it snugly, but don’t overtighten.
  7. Reconnect: Reconnect the spark plug wire.

• Personal Story: I once spent an entire morning struggling with a hard-to-start Stihl 290. After checking everything else, I finally pulled the spark plug and discovered it was completely black and fouled. A quick cleaning and re-gapping, and the chainsaw fired right up. It taught me the importance of not overlooking the simple things.

• Data Point: A study by the Equipment Engine Training Council (EETC) found that approximately 30% of small engine starting problems are related to faulty spark plugs.

• Technical Specification:

  • Spark Plug Type (Recommended): NGK BPMR7A or Champion RCJ7Y
  • Gap: 0.5 mm – 0.65 mm (0.020 in – 0.026 in)
  • Torque: 15-20 Nm (11-15 ft-lbs)

• If the spark plug is damaged or heavily worn, replace it. A new spark plug can make a significant difference in starting performance. I recommend keeping a spare spark plug on hand for just such occasions.

2. Inspect the Starter Assembly

The starter assembly is responsible for engaging the engine and turning it over. Over time, the components of the starter assembly can wear out, become damaged, or get gummed up with debris, leading to increased resistance and a hard-to-pull cord.

• Why It Matters: A smooth-running starter assembly is crucial for easy starting. Problems here translate directly to difficulty pulling the cord.

• How to Inspect It:

  1. Access: Remove the starter assembly cover. This usually involves removing a few screws.
  2. Rope and Handle: Inspect the pull rope for fraying, wear, or damage. Replace the rope if it’s damaged. Also, check the handle for cracks or damage. A comfortable grip is essential for effective pulling.
  3. Spring: Examine the recoil spring for proper tension and any signs of damage or corrosion. A weak or broken recoil spring will make it difficult to pull the cord and may prevent it from retracting properly.
  4. Pawls (Dogs): Check the pawls (also known as dogs) that engage the flywheel. These small, pivoting components can wear down or become gummed up, preventing them from properly engaging the flywheel. Clean the pawls with a solvent like carburetor cleaner and lubricate them lightly with a silicone-based lubricant.
  5. Flywheel: Inspect the flywheel for any damage or debris that could be interfering with the pawls.
  6. Lubrication: Lubricate the moving parts of the starter assembly with a silicone-based lubricant. Avoid using oil-based lubricants, as they can attract dirt and grime.

• Personal Story: I once had a Stihl 290 that was incredibly difficult to start. After tearing apart the starter assembly, I discovered that the pawls were completely gummed up with old grease and sawdust. A thorough cleaning and lubrication, and the starter worked like new.

• Data Point: According to a study by the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI), approximately 20% of chainsaw starting problems are related to issues with the starter assembly.

• Technical Specification:

  • Rope Material: High-strength nylon or polyester
  • Rope Diameter: Typically 3-4 mm
  • Spring Tension: Should provide smooth and consistent recoil

• If any components are damaged or excessively worn, replace them. Starter assembly rebuild kits are readily available and can save you money compared to replacing the entire assembly.

3. Check the Compression Release Valve

Many chainsaws, including the Stihl 290, are equipped with a compression release valve. This valve momentarily releases some of the compression in the cylinder, making it easier to pull the cord and start the engine. If the compression release valve is malfunctioning, it can make the engine much harder to turn over.

• Why It Matters: The compression release valve is designed to reduce the force needed to start the chainsaw. A faulty valve negates this advantage.

• How to Check It:

  1. Location: The compression release valve is typically located on the cylinder head, near the spark plug.
  2. Activation: On some models, the compression release valve is manually activated by pressing a button before pulling the cord. On other models, it’s automatic.
  3. Testing (Manual Valve): If your Stihl 290 has a manual compression release valve, make sure you’re pressing it before pulling the cord. If the cord is still hard to pull, the valve may be malfunctioning.
  4. Testing (Automatic Valve): An automatic compression release valve can be more difficult to test. One way to check it is to remove the spark plug and try to pull the cord. If the cord pulls easily with the spark plug removed, but is hard to pull with the spark plug installed (and the valve is supposed to be automatic), the valve may be stuck closed.
  5. Inspection: Visually inspect the valve for any signs of damage or wear.
  6. Cleaning: If the valve appears to be stuck, try cleaning it with carburetor cleaner.

• Personal Story: I once worked on a Stihl 290 where the compression release valve was stuck closed. The owner had been struggling to start it for weeks. After a bit of penetrating oil and some gentle persuasion, I was able to free the valve. The chainsaw started on the first pull.

• Data Point: A survey of chainsaw repair shops found that faulty compression release valves are a common cause of hard-to-start chainsaws, particularly in models with automatic valves.

• Technical Specification:

  • Valve Type: Manual or Automatic
  • Opening Pressure: Typically designed to release pressure at a specific point in the piston’s stroke

• If the compression release valve is malfunctioning, it may need to be replaced. Replacing the valve is usually a relatively straightforward procedure.

4. Examine the Piston and Cylinder

The piston and cylinder are the heart of the engine. Damage or excessive wear to these components can cause a significant loss of compression, making the engine harder to turn over and start. While this is a more serious issue than a fouled spark plug, it’s important to rule it out.

• Why It Matters: Proper compression is essential for efficient combustion. Damaged piston or cylinder walls lead to compression loss.

• How to Check It:

  1. Compression Test: The most accurate way to check the piston and cylinder is to perform a compression test. This requires a compression tester, which can be purchased at most auto parts stores.
     • Remove the spark plug.
     • Screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole.
     • Pull the cord several times while observing the gauge on the compression tester.
     • Compare the reading to the manufacturer’s specifications. For the Stihl 290, a healthy engine should have a compression reading of around 120-150 PSI.
  2. Visual Inspection (Through Spark Plug Hole): If you don’t have a compression tester, you can try a visual inspection of the piston through the spark plug hole. Use a flashlight to illuminate the cylinder. Look for scoring or damage on the piston walls.
  3. Exhaust Port Inspection: Remove the muffler and inspect the piston through the exhaust port. This provides a slightly better view of the piston.

• Personal Story: I once bought a used Stihl 290 that was incredibly difficult to start. After performing a compression test, I discovered that the engine had very low compression. A visual inspection revealed significant scoring on the piston and cylinder walls. The engine needed a complete rebuild. This experience taught me the importance of checking compression before buying a used chainsaw.

• Data Point: A study by the American Society of Agricultural and Biological Engineers (ASABE) found that cylinder wear is a major factor in the decline of small engine performance.

• Technical Specification:

  • Compression Reading (Healthy Engine): 120-150 PSI
  • Cylinder Material: Typically aluminum alloy with a chrome or Nikasil coating
  • Piston Material: Typically aluminum alloy

• If the compression is low or there is visible damage to the piston or cylinder, the engine may need to be rebuilt or replaced. This is a more complex repair that may be best left to a qualified technician.

5. Fuel and Air Issues

While a hard-to-pull cord often points to mechanical issues, problems with the fuel and air supply can also contribute to starting difficulties. A lean fuel mixture (too much air, not enough fuel) or a blocked air filter can make the engine harder to turn over.

• Why It Matters: A proper air-fuel mixture is essential for efficient combustion. Improper mixtures can make starting difficult.

• How to Check It:

  1. Fuel Quality: Make sure you’re using fresh, high-quality fuel mixed with the correct ratio of two-stroke oil. Stale fuel can lose its volatility and make starting difficult. I always use premium fuel and mix it with a high-quality synthetic two-stroke oil at a ratio of 50:1.
  2. Fuel Filter: Check the fuel filter, which is located inside the fuel tank, for clogs or debris. A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow to the carburetor.
  3. Air Filter: Inspect the air filter for dirt and debris. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow to the engine, creating a lean fuel mixture. Clean the air filter with soap and water, or replace it if it’s heavily soiled.
  4. Carburetor: The carburetor is responsible for mixing the fuel and air in the correct proportions. If the carburetor is dirty or improperly adjusted, it can cause starting problems.
     • Check the carburetor adjustments. The Stihl 290 typically has three adjustment screws: the high-speed (H), low-speed (L), and idle speed (LA) screws. Consult your owner’s manual for the proper adjustment settings.
     • If the carburetor is heavily soiled, it may need to be cleaned or rebuilt. This is a more complex repair that may be best left to a qualified technician.

• Personal Story: I once had a Stihl 290 that wouldn’t start, no matter what I did. After checking everything else, I finally decided to take a closer look at the carburetor. I discovered that the low-speed jet was completely clogged with varnish from old fuel. A thorough cleaning of the carburetor, and the chainsaw started right up.

• Data Point: A study by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) found that improper fuel and air mixtures are a significant source of emissions from small engines.

• Technical Specification:

  • Fuel Type: Unleaded gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 89
  • Oil Type: High-quality synthetic two-stroke oil
  • Fuel/Oil Ratio: 50:1 (2.6 oz of oil per gallon of gasoline)
  • Air Filter Material: Typically foam or paper

• Always use fresh fuel and keep the air filter clean. Proper fuel and air supply are essential for optimal engine performance.

Additional Tips and Considerations

Beyond these five key fixes, here are some additional tips and considerations that I’ve learned over the years that can help prevent a hard-to-pull cord and keep your Stihl 290 running smoothly:

• Regular Maintenance: Regular maintenance is key to preventing problems. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule, which typically includes:
  • Cleaning or replacing the air filter regularly.
  • Replacing the spark plug annually.
  • Checking and cleaning the fuel filter.
  • Lubricating the chain and bar.
  • Sharpening the chain.
• Storage: Store your chainsaw properly when it’s not in use. Drain the fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls to prevent fuel from gumming up the carburetor. Store the chainsaw in a dry place.
• Starting Technique: Use the proper starting technique. Consult your owner’s manual for the recommended starting procedure. Typically, this involves:
  • Engaging the chain brake.
  • Setting the choke.
  • Pulling the cord sharply and smoothly.
  • Disengaging the choke once the engine starts.
• Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including:
  • Eye protection (safety glasses or a face shield).
  • Hearing protection (earplugs or earmuffs).
  • Gloves.
  • Chainsaw chaps.
  • Steel-toed boots.
• Chain Tension: Maintain proper chain tension. A loose chain can be dangerous and can also make the engine harder to turn over.

Wood Selection Criteria for Firewood

Selecting the right wood is crucial for efficient burning and heat output. I’ve learned that not all wood is created equal, and understanding the characteristics of different species can make a big difference in the quality of your firewood.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods are generally denser than softwoods and produce more heat per volume. They also burn longer and cleaner. Examples of good firewood hardwoods include oak, maple, ash, beech, and birch. Softwoods, such as pine, fir, and spruce, burn quickly and produce more smoke. They are best used for kindling or in outdoor fireplaces.

  • Data Point: Oak, with a BTU rating of approximately 27.7 million per cord, provides significantly more heat than pine, which has a BTU rating of around 20 million per cord.

• Moisture Content: The moisture content of firewood is critical. Green wood (freshly cut) can have a moisture content of 50% or more. This wood is difficult to light, produces a lot of smoke, and burns inefficiently. Properly seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

  • Technical Specification: Ideal moisture content for firewood: 15-20%.
  • Measurement: Use a wood moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content. These meters are relatively inexpensive and can save you a lot of frustration. I aim for a reading below 20% before I consider the wood ready to burn.
  • Drying Time: Drying time varies depending on the species of wood, the climate, and how the wood is stacked. Generally, hardwoods take longer to dry than softwoods. In a dry climate, firewood may be ready to burn in as little as six months. In a humid climate, it may take a year or more.
  • Stacking: Stack firewood in a single row, off the ground, and with good air circulation. This will help the wood dry more quickly. I use pallets to keep the wood off the ground and leave gaps between the rows to allow air to circulate.

• Log Dimensions: The size of the logs is also important. Logs that are too large can be difficult to split and may not burn completely. Logs that are too small may burn too quickly. I aim for logs that are approximately 16-18 inches long and 6-8 inches in diameter.

  • Technical Specification: Recommended log length: 16-18 inches.
  • Tip: Use a measuring stick or a pre-cut log as a guide when cutting firewood. This will help you maintain consistent log lengths.

• Species-Specific Considerations:

  • Oak: Excellent heat output, but takes a long time to dry.
  • Maple: Good heat output and relatively easy to split.
  • Ash: Burns well even when slightly green.
  • Birch: Burns quickly and produces a pleasant aroma.
  • Pine: Easy to light, but burns quickly and produces a lot of smoke.

Tool Calibration Standards

Maintaining the proper calibration of your tools is essential for safety, efficiency, and accuracy. This is especially true for chainsaws, which can be dangerous if not properly maintained.

• Chainsaw Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which can increase the risk of kickback.

  • Technical Specification: Chain sharpening angle: Typically 25-30 degrees.
  • Tool: Use a chainsaw file or a chain grinder to sharpen the chain.
  • Tip: Sharpen the chain regularly, even if it doesn’t appear to be dull. A few strokes with a file after each tank of fuel can keep the chain sharp and prevent it from becoming overly dull.

• Carburetor Adjustment: Proper carburetor adjustment is essential for optimal engine performance. An improperly adjusted carburetor can cause the engine to run lean or rich, which can lead to starting problems, poor performance, and increased emissions.

  • Technical Specification: Consult your owner’s manual for the proper carburetor adjustment settings.
  • Tool: Use a small screwdriver to adjust the carburetor screws.
  • Tip: Make small adjustments and listen to the engine. The engine should run smoothly and without hesitation.

• Bar and Chain Lubrication: Proper lubrication of the bar and chain is essential for preventing wear and tear. Insufficient lubrication can cause the bar and chain to overheat and fail.

  • Technical Specification: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
  • Tip: Check the oil level regularly and refill as needed. Adjust the oiler to provide adequate lubrication.

• Chain Tension Adjustment: Maintaining the proper chain tension is crucial for safety and performance. A loose chain can derail and cause injury. A chain that is too tight can overheat and damage the bar and chain.

  • Technical Specification: The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
  • Tool: Use a wrench to adjust the chain tension.
  • Tip: Check the chain tension regularly, especially when the chain is new.

Safety Equipment Requirements

Operating a chainsaw can be dangerous, so it’s essential to wear appropriate safety gear. I never start my chainsaw without the following:

• Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield are essential for protecting your eyes from flying debris.
• Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs are essential for protecting your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw. Prolonged exposure to loud noise can cause permanent hearing damage.
• Gloves: Gloves protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are designed to stop the chain from cutting into your legs in the event of a kickback. They are an essential piece of safety gear.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from injury.
• Helmet: A helmet provides protection from falling branches and other debris.

Case Study: Reviving a Neglected Stihl 290

I once came across a Stihl 290 that had been sitting unused in a shed for several years. It was in rough shape, covered in dust and grime. The owner had given up on it, assuming it was beyond repair. I took on the challenge of bringing it back to life.

• Initial Assessment: The pull cord was incredibly hard to pull. The engine was seized. The fuel tank was empty. The chain was rusty and dull.
• Steps Taken:
  1. Disassembly: I completely disassembled the chainsaw, cleaning each part thoroughly.
  2. Piston and Cylinder: I discovered that the piston was seized in the cylinder due to rust and corrosion. I carefully freed the piston using penetrating oil and a soft hammer. I then honed the cylinder to remove any rust and scoring.
  3. Carburetor: I completely disassembled and cleaned the carburetor, replacing all of the gaskets and seals.
  4. Fuel System: I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel lines.
  5. Starter Assembly: I cleaned and lubricated the starter assembly, replacing the pull rope.
  6. Spark Plug: I replaced the spark plug.
  7. Reassembly: I reassembled the chainsaw, taking care to lubricate all of the moving parts.
  8. Testing: I filled the fuel tank with fresh fuel and attempted to start the chainsaw. After a few pulls, the engine sputtered to life. I adjusted the carburetor and allowed the engine to warm up.
• Results: The Stihl 290 ran like new. The pull cord was easy to pull, and the engine idled smoothly. I sharpened the chain and put the chainsaw to work cutting firewood.
• Lessons Learned: This project reinforced the importance of thorough cleaning and lubrication. It also demonstrated that even a neglected chainsaw can be brought back to life with a little patience and effort.

Conclusion

Dealing with a hard-to-pull chainsaw cord can be frustrating, but it’s often a solvable problem. By systematically troubleshooting the potential causes and following the expert fixes I’ve outlined, you can get your Stihl 290 running smoothly again. Remember to prioritize safety, maintain your tools properly, and select the right wood for your needs. With a little knowledge and effort, you can keep your chainsaw in top condition and enjoy the satisfaction of a well-stocked woodpile for years to come.

Learn more