Chainsaw Cutting Trees Safely (5 Pro Tips For Wider Logs)

I once made a huge mistake when I first started cutting firewood. I thought I could just grab my chainsaw, head into the woods, and start felling trees without a second thought. I quickly learned that cutting wider logs safely requires a whole different level of skill and preparation. Not only did I nearly get myself injured, but I also wasted a ton of wood due to improper cuts. It was a humbling experience, and it taught me the importance of understanding the right techniques and safety precautions. This article is dedicated to helping you avoid the same mistakes I made, by providing you with five pro tips for safely cutting wider logs with a chainsaw.

Chainsaw Cutting Trees Safely: 5 Pro Tips for Wider Logs

Cutting down trees, especially those with wider logs, can be a rewarding task, whether you’re preparing firewood, clearing land, or harvesting timber. However, it’s crucial to approach this activity with a deep understanding of safety and technique. Wider logs present unique challenges, demanding a more cautious and skilled approach. In this article, I will share five essential pro tips to help you safely and efficiently tackle those larger trees.

1. Selecting the Right Chainsaw and Equipment

The first step towards safely cutting wider logs is ensuring you have the right tools for the job. Using an undersized or inadequate chainsaw can lead to dangerous situations and inefficient cutting.

Chainsaw Size and Power

Bar Length: A general rule of thumb is that your chainsaw bar length should be at least two inches longer than the diameter of the logs you intend to cut. For example, if you’re cutting logs that are 20 inches in diameter, you’ll want a bar length of at least 22 inches. This ensures you can make a complete cut without having to “plunge cut,” which is a more advanced technique that can be risky for beginners.
Engine Displacement: Chainsaw engine displacement is measured in cubic centimeters (cc). For wider logs, you’ll need a chainsaw with a higher cc rating. Typically, chainsaws with 50cc to 70cc engines are suitable for cutting medium to large trees. For extremely wide logs (over 30 inches in diameter), you might even consider a professional-grade chainsaw with an engine displacement of 70cc or higher.
Power Output: Look for chainsaws with a power output of at least 3 horsepower (HP) for wider logs. This ensures you have enough power to cut through the wood efficiently without bogging down the saw.

Cost Considerations

I’ve seen chainsaws suitable for this task range anywhere from $400 to over $1,500. Here’s a breakdown:

Entry-Level (50-60cc): $400 – $700. These are often sufficient for occasional use and logs up to 24 inches.
Mid-Range (60-70cc): $700 – $1,200. These provide a good balance of power and durability for regular use.
Professional-Grade (70cc+): $1,200+. These are built for heavy-duty use and can handle the largest logs.

Data Point: According to a survey by the National Arborist Association, professional arborists prefer chainsaws with engine displacements between 60cc and 70cc for felling trees with diameters ranging from 20 to 30 inches.

Essential Safety Gear

Never underestimate the importance of safety gear. Cutting wider logs can be particularly dangerous, so proper protection is a must.

2. Mastering the Hinge and Directional Felling

Directional felling is the art of controlling where a tree falls. It’s not just about cutting; it’s about understanding the tree’s lean, wind conditions, and the surrounding environment. The hinge is the key element in directional felling. It’s the uncut wood that guides the tree’s fall.

Creating the Notch Cut

The notch cut, also known as the face cut, is the first cut you make when felling a tree. It determines the direction in which the tree will fall. The notch should be cut on the side of the tree that you want it to fall towards.

Open Face Notch: This is the most common type of notch cut and is suitable for most situations. It consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet at a point. The angle of the notch should be between 45 and 70 degrees.
Humboldt Notch: This type of notch cut is used for larger trees and provides more control over the direction of the fall. It consists of two angled cuts that meet at a point, with a horizontal cut below them.
Conventional Notch: A 45-degree angled cut followed by a horizontal cut that meets the angled cut. This is the simplest and most commonly used notch.

The Importance of the Hinge

The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It acts as a guide, controlling the direction of the fall. The hinge should be approximately 80% of the diameter of the tree.

Hinge Width: The width of the hinge should be consistent and uniform. A hinge that is too narrow can break prematurely, causing the tree to fall in an uncontrolled manner. A hinge that is too wide can prevent the tree from falling altogether.
Hinge Depth: The depth of the hinge should be approximately 10% of the diameter of the tree. This provides enough strength to guide the fall without being too thick.
Hinge Placement: The hinge should be placed directly behind the notch, ensuring that the tree falls in the intended direction.

The Back Cut

The back cut is the final cut you make when felling a tree. It is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, leaving the hinge intact.

Leaving the Hinge: It’s crucial to leave the hinge intact when making the back cut. Cutting through the hinge will remove the control you have over the direction of the fall.
Using Wedges: As you make the back cut, insert wedges into the cut to prevent the tree from pinching the chainsaw bar. The wedges also help to push the tree over in the desired direction.
Avoiding Kickback: Be careful to avoid kickback when making the back cut. Kickback occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar comes into contact with an object, causing the saw to suddenly kick back towards you.

Data Point: According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), improper felling techniques are a leading cause of injuries in the logging industry. Proper training in directional felling can significantly reduce the risk of accidents.

Cost Analysis: Investing in professional training for directional felling can cost between $200 and $500, but it’s well worth the investment in terms of safety and efficiency.

3. Understanding Wood Tension and Compression

Wood is a complex material, and understanding its properties is essential for safe and efficient cutting. Tension and compression are two forces that act on wood when it is under stress.

Identifying Tension and Compression

Tension: Tension is a force that pulls the wood fibers apart. It occurs on the side of the log that is being stretched.
Compression: Compression is a force that pushes the wood fibers together. It occurs on the side of the log that is being squeezed.

Making the Correct Cuts

Cutting on the Tension Side First: When cutting a log that is under tension, it’s important to cut on the tension side first. This will relieve the tension and prevent the log from splitting or pinching the chainsaw bar.
Cutting on the Compression Side Last: After cutting on the tension side, you can then cut on the compression side. This will allow the log to separate cleanly without binding the saw.

Preventing Pinching and Kickback

Using Wedges: Wedges can be used to prevent the log from pinching the chainsaw bar. Insert the wedges into the cut as you are making it to keep the kerf open.
Using a Chain Brake: The chain brake is a safety device that stops the chain from rotating in case of kickback. Always engage the chain brake when you are not actively cutting.
Maintaining a Sharp Chain: A sharp chain is less likely to kick back than a dull chain. Sharpen your chain regularly to ensure that it is cutting efficiently.

Personal Story: I once tried to cut a log that was under a lot of tension without relieving the tension first. The log split violently, and the chainsaw bar got pinched. It was a scary experience, and it taught me the importance of understanding wood tension and compression.

4. Plunge Cutting Techniques (with Caution)

Plunge cutting is a technique used to cut into the middle of a log without starting from the edge. While it can be useful in certain situations, it’s also one of the most dangerous chainsaw techniques. It should only be attempted by experienced chainsaw operators who have a thorough understanding of chainsaw safety.

When to Use Plunge Cuts

Removing a Section of Log: Plunge cuts can be used to remove a section of log from the middle of a larger log.
Creating a Hinge: In some cases, plunge cuts can be used to create a hinge for directional felling.
Freeing a Pinched Saw: If your chainsaw gets pinched in a log, a plunge cut can be used to relieve the pressure and free the saw.

The Risks of Plunge Cutting

Kickback: Plunge cutting is one of the most common causes of chainsaw kickback. Kickback occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar comes into contact with an object, causing the saw to suddenly kick back towards you.
Loss of Control: It can be difficult to control the chainsaw when making a plunge cut, especially if you are not experienced.
Binding: The chainsaw bar can easily bind in the cut, making it difficult to remove the saw.

Safe Plunge Cutting Practices

Use a Sharp Chain: A sharp chain is essential for safe plunge cutting. A dull chain is more likely to kick back or bind.
Use a Chainsaw with a Chain Brake: The chain brake is a safety device that stops the chain from rotating in case of kickback. Always engage the chain brake when you are not actively cutting.
Keep a Firm Grip on the Chainsaw: Maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands. This will help you to control the saw and prevent it from kicking back.
Avoid Cutting with the Tip of the Bar: The tip of the chainsaw bar is the most likely part of the saw to kick back. Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar whenever possible.
Watch for Pinching: Be aware of the possibility of the chainsaw bar pinching in the cut. If the saw starts to bind, stop cutting and try to relieve the pressure.
Never Plunge Cut Above Shoulder Height: Plunge cutting above shoulder height is extremely dangerous and should never be attempted.

Data Point: A study by the Consumer Product Safety Commission found that plunge cutting is involved in a significant percentage of chainsaw-related injuries.

Cost Implication: Neglecting safety precautions during plunge cutting can lead to severe injuries, resulting in high medical bills and potential loss of income.

5. Understanding and Mitigating Spring Pole Dangers

Spring poles are branches or small trees that are bent under tension, often by a fallen tree or other obstruction. They can be extremely dangerous because they can suddenly snap back with great force when cut.

Identifying Spring Poles

Look for Bent Branches or Trees: Spring poles are usually easy to spot because they are bent or curved under tension.
Check for Obstructions: Look for fallen trees or other objects that may be holding the spring pole in place.
Be Aware of the Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and look for potential spring poles before you start cutting.

Safely Releasing Spring Poles

Clear the Area: Before you start cutting a spring pole, clear the area around it to ensure that no one is in the path of the snapping branch.
Make a Relief Cut: Make a small relief cut on the compression side of the spring pole. This will help to relieve some of the tension.
Cut on the Tension Side: Carefully cut on the tension side of the spring pole, gradually releasing the tension.
Use a Rope or Cable: If the spring pole is under a lot of tension, use a rope or cable to control its movement as you cut it.
Stand to the Side: Never stand directly in front of a spring pole when you are cutting it. Stand to the side to avoid being struck by the snapping branch.

Personal Story: I once witnessed a logger get seriously injured by a spring pole. He was cutting a small tree that was bent under tension, and the tree suddenly snapped back, striking him in the face. He was lucky to survive, but he suffered severe injuries.

Cost of Negligence: Failing to properly assess and mitigate spring pole dangers can lead to serious injuries, resulting in significant medical expenses and potential legal liabilities.

Budgeting for Chainsaw Work

Now that we’ve covered the safety and techniques, let’s talk about the costs involved in chainsaw work, particularly when dealing with wider logs.

Initial Investment

Chainsaw: As mentioned earlier, expect to spend between $400 and $1,500+ on a suitable chainsaw.
Safety Gear: Budget $200-$500 for a complete set of safety gear.
Tools: Wedges, felling axe, measuring tape, etc., can add another $100-$300 to your initial costs.

Ongoing Expenses

Fuel and Oil: A gallon of chainsaw fuel (pre-mixed) costs around $10-$15. Chainsaw oil can range from $5-$15 per quart.
Chain Sharpening: You can either sharpen your own chains (requiring a sharpening kit costing $50-$100) or pay a professional, which typically costs $10-$20 per chain.
Chain Replacement: Chains need to be replaced periodically. A good quality chainsaw chain can cost between $30 and $60.
Bar Maintenance: Chainsaw bars also need to be maintained and replaced as needed. A new bar can cost between $50 and $150.
Repairs: Chainsaws can break down, so it’s wise to budget for potential repairs.

Labor Costs (If Applicable)

If you’re hiring someone to do the chainsaw work for you, labor costs can vary widely depending on the location and the complexity of the job.

Hourly Rate: Expect to pay between $30 and $100+ per hour for a professional chainsaw operator.
Project-Based Pricing: Some contractors may offer project-based pricing, which can be a good option if you have a clear idea of the scope of the work.

Estimating Firewood Costs

If you’re cutting wider logs for firewood, it’s helpful to estimate the cost per cord. A cord of firewood is a stack of wood that measures 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long.

Cost of Wood: If you’re purchasing the logs, the cost per cord can vary depending on the species of wood and your location. Expect to pay between $100 and $400+ per cord.
Labor Costs: If you’re hiring someone to cut and split the wood, labor costs can add another $50-$200+ per cord.
Equipment Costs: Factor in the cost of fuel, oil, chain sharpening, and other equipment expenses.

Data Point: According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, the average price of firewood in the United States ranges from $150 to $350 per cord, depending on the region and the type of wood.

Cost Optimization Tips

Buy in Bulk: If you’re purchasing logs, buying in bulk can often save you money.
Do It Yourself: If you have the skills and the time, doing the chainsaw work yourself can save you a significant amount of money.
Maintain Your Equipment: Regularly maintaining your chainsaw and other equipment will help to extend their lifespan and reduce the need for costly repairs.
Shop Around: Get quotes from multiple contractors before hiring someone to do the work for you.
Season Your Firewood: Properly seasoning your firewood will increase its heat output and reduce the amount of wood you need to burn.

Final Thoughts:

Cutting wider logs with a chainsaw can be a challenging but rewarding task. By following these five pro tips, you can significantly reduce the risk of accidents and improve your efficiency. Remember to always prioritize safety, wear appropriate protective gear, and take your time. With the right tools, knowledge, and techniques, you can safely and effectively tackle those larger trees.

Actionable Takeaways:

Invest in the Right Equipment: Don’t skimp on safety gear or try to use an undersized chainsaw.
Master Directional Felling: Proper felling techniques are essential for safety and control.
Understand Wood Properties: Knowing how wood reacts under tension and compression can help you avoid dangerous situations.
Use Plunge Cuts with Caution: Only attempt plunge cuts if you are experienced and understand the risks.
Be Aware of Spring Poles: Spring poles can be extremely dangerous, so take the time to identify and mitigate them.

By keeping these tips in mind, you’ll be well on your way to safely and efficiently cutting wider logs with a chainsaw. Remember, patience and preparation are key to success!