Chainsaw Arboristsite Tips (5 Pro Logging Hacks Revealed)

I often hear the same complaint from folks just starting out in logging or even serious firewood preparation: “I’m working my tail off, but I’m not getting the results I expect. It feels like there’s a secret I’m missing!” It’s true; there are definitely tricks of the trade, techniques honed over years of experience that can significantly improve your efficiency, safety, and overall success. That’s what I want to share with you today – five pro logging hacks that I’ve learned from years of working in the woods, insights that can make a real difference whether you’re felling trees for timber or just trying to stock up on firewood for the winter. These hacks aren’t just about brute force; they’re about working smarter, not harder.

Chainsaw Arboristsite Tips: 5 Pro Logging Hacks Revealed

1. Mastering the Bore Cut: Precision Felling for Safety and Control

The bore cut. This is arguably the single most important technique I learned early in my career. It’s not just a fancy trick; it’s a game-changer for controlling the direction of your fall, preventing barber chairs, and minimizing damage to the surrounding forest.

What is a Bore Cut?

A bore cut, also known as a plunge cut or pocket cut, involves inserting the tip of your chainsaw bar directly into the tree, creating a pocket within the trunk before making your felling cut. This allows you to create a hinge, a critical element in directional felling, and significantly reduces the risk of the tree splitting upwards unexpectedly (the dreaded “barber chair”).

Why is it Important?

Directional Control: The hinge you create with the bore cut dictates the direction of the fall. By carefully controlling the thickness and placement of the hinge, you can influence where the tree lands with surprising accuracy.
Barber Chair Prevention: A barber chair occurs when the tree splits upwards along the trunk during the fall. This is incredibly dangerous, as the splitting wood can kick back with tremendous force. The bore cut relieves tension within the tree, preventing this dangerous occurrence.
Minimizing Damage: By controlling the fall, you can minimize damage to surrounding trees and vegetation. This is particularly important in selective logging or when working in sensitive environments.
Working with Leaners: Bore cutting is essential when dealing with trees that have a natural lean. It allows you to control the fall and prevent the tree from falling in an unpredictable direction.

Step-by-Step Guide to Performing a Bore Cut:

Assess the Tree: Before you even start your saw, carefully assess the tree’s lean, branch distribution, and any signs of weakness or decay. Determine your desired felling direction. Clear the area around the tree and establish escape routes.
Make the Face Cut: This is your initial cut on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The face cut consists of two cuts: a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet to form a wedge. The angle should be approximately 45 degrees, and the depth of the face cut should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Position Yourself: Stand to the side of the tree, never directly behind it. Ensure you have a stable footing and a clear view of the work area.
Start the Bore Cut: With your chainsaw running at full throttle, carefully insert the tip of the bar into the tree, a few inches behind the face cut. Use the lower portion of the bar’s tip to make the cut.
Pivot and Create the Pocket: As the bar enters the wood, slowly pivot the saw to create a pocket. The size of the pocket depends on the size of the tree, but it should be large enough to allow you to maneuver the saw and create the hinge.
Form the Hinge: Once the pocket is created, carefully cut towards the back of the tree, leaving a hinge of consistent thickness. The hinge is the key to controlling the fall. A thicker hinge will hold the tree longer, while a thinner hinge will allow it to fall more quickly. Aim for a hinge thickness of about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Felling Cut: After the hinge is established, make your felling cut from the back of the tree, slightly above the horizontal cut of the face cut. Leave a small amount of wood uncut between the felling cut and the hinge – this is called the “holding wood.”
Wedge and Fall: Insert a felling wedge into the felling cut to help push the tree over. As the tree begins to fall, move away quickly and safely along your established escape route.

Tool Specifications:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw with sufficient power for the tree size is essential. For smaller trees (under 12 inches in diameter), a 50cc chainsaw is typically sufficient. For larger trees, you’ll need a more powerful saw (60cc or higher). I personally use a Stihl MS 462 C-M for most of my felling work.
Bar Length: The bar length should be appropriate for the size of the tree. A bar that is too short will make it difficult to perform the bore cut effectively. As a general rule, the bar length should be at least as long as the diameter of the tree.
Felling Wedges: Use plastic or aluminum felling wedges to help push the tree over. Avoid using steel wedges, as they can damage your chainsaw if you accidentally hit them with the bar.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.

Case Study:

I was once tasked with removing a large, leaning oak tree that was threatening a nearby building. The tree had a significant lean towards the building, and there was no room to fell it in any other direction. Using the bore cut technique, I was able to precisely control the fall and bring the tree down safely, away from the building. The key was carefully assessing the lean, creating a precise face cut, and leaving a hinge of the correct thickness to control the fall. This experience solidified my belief in the power and importance of the bore cut.

Safety Considerations:

Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback when performing a bore cut. Always maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw and avoid cutting with the upper portion of the bar’s tip.
Tree Behavior: Pay close attention to the tree’s behavior as you’re making the cuts. If you see any signs of cracking or splitting, stop immediately and reassess the situation.
Escape Routes: Always have clear escape routes planned before you start cutting.

2. The Power of Pre-Planning: Strategic Bucking for Maximum Yield

Bucking, the process of cutting a felled tree into smaller, more manageable lengths, is often overlooked. But strategic bucking can significantly increase your yield, reduce waste, and make the subsequent handling of the wood much easier.

What is Strategic Bucking?

Strategic bucking involves carefully planning your cuts to maximize the value of the wood. This means considering factors such as the intended use of the wood (firewood, lumber, etc.), the presence of defects (knots, rot, etc.), and the overall shape and size of the tree.

Why is it Important?

Maximize Yield: By carefully planning your cuts, you can minimize waste and maximize the amount of usable wood you get from each tree.
Reduce Waste: Identifying and removing defects before bucking can prevent them from contaminating the rest of the wood.
Easier Handling: Bucking the tree into manageable lengths makes it easier to move, stack, and process the wood.
Increased Value: Bucking the tree into specific lengths and sizes can increase its value, particularly if you’re selling the wood as lumber or firewood.

Step-by-Step Guide to Strategic Bucking:

Assess the Log: Before you start cutting, carefully assess the entire length of the felled tree. Look for defects such as knots, rot, cracks, and bends. Consider the tree’s overall shape and size.
Determine Intended Use: Decide how you plan to use the wood. Are you cutting it for firewood? Are you milling it into lumber? The intended use will influence your bucking strategy.
Plan Your Cuts: Based on your assessment and intended use, plan your cuts to maximize yield and minimize waste. Consider the following:
- Firewood: Cut the tree into lengths that are appropriate for your fireplace or wood stove. A common length for firewood is 16 inches, but you may need to adjust this depending on the size of your appliance.
- Lumber: Cut the tree into lengths that are suitable for milling into lumber. Consider the dimensions of the lumber you need and the capabilities of your sawmill.
- Defects: Cut out any defects, such as knots, rot, or cracks. Make sure to cut far enough on either side of the defect to ensure that the remaining wood is sound.
Buck the Log: Using your chainsaw, carefully buck the log according to your plan. Make sure to use proper cutting techniques to avoid pinching the bar.
Sort and Stack: As you buck the log, sort the wood according to its intended use and stack it neatly for drying.

Tool Specifications:

Chainsaw: A chainsaw with sufficient power and bar length for the size of the log is essential.
Measuring Tape: Use a measuring tape to accurately measure the length of each piece.
Chalk or Marker: Use chalk or a marker to mark your cuts on the log.
Log Jack (Optional): A log jack can be helpful for lifting the log off the ground, making it easier to buck.

Case Study:

I once had a large oak tree that had fallen in my yard. The tree was partially decayed, but there were still several sections that were suitable for lumber. I carefully assessed the log and planned my cuts to maximize the amount of usable lumber. I cut out the decayed sections and bucked the remaining wood into lengths that were suitable for milling into boards. By carefully planning my cuts, I was able to salvage a significant amount of valuable lumber from a tree that would have otherwise been considered waste.

Strategic Insights:

Prioritize Clear Wood: When bucking for lumber, prioritize sections of the log that are free of knots and other defects. These sections will yield the highest quality lumber.
Consider Grain Direction: When bucking for firewood, consider the grain direction of the wood. Wood that is split along the grain will be easier to split into smaller pieces.
Optimize for Drying: When bucking for firewood, cut the wood into lengths that will dry quickly and evenly. Shorter lengths will dry faster than longer lengths.

3. The Hydraulic Splitter Advantage: Efficiency and Ergonomics

Splitting firewood by hand with an axe is a time-honored tradition, but it’s also incredibly labor-intensive and can be hard on your body. A hydraulic log splitter can dramatically increase your efficiency and reduce the risk of injury.

What is a Hydraulic Log Splitter?

A hydraulic log splitter is a machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs. It consists of a hydraulic pump, a cylinder, and a wedge. The log is placed on the splitter, and the hydraulic cylinder pushes the wedge through the log, splitting it into two or more pieces.

Why is it Important?

Increased Efficiency: A hydraulic log splitter can split logs much faster than you can by hand. This can save you a significant amount of time and effort.
Reduced Strain: Splitting wood by hand can be hard on your back, shoulders, and arms. A hydraulic log splitter eliminates the need for repetitive swinging motions, reducing the risk of injury.
Splitting Tough Wood: A hydraulic log splitter can split even the toughest wood, such as oak and elm, with ease.
Consistency: A hydraulic log splitter produces consistent splits, making it easier to stack and dry the firewood.

Types of Hydraulic Log Splitters:

Electric Log Splitters: Electric log splitters are powered by an electric motor. They are typically quieter and cleaner than gas-powered splitters, but they may not be as powerful.
Gas-Powered Log Splitters: Gas-powered log splitters are powered by a gasoline engine. They are typically more powerful than electric splitters and can be used in areas where there is no access to electricity.
Manual Log Splitters: Manual log splitters use a hand-operated pump to generate hydraulic pressure. They are less expensive than electric or gas-powered splitters, but they require more physical effort to operate.

Choosing the Right Log Splitter:

The best log splitter for you will depend on your needs and budget. Consider the following factors when choosing a log splitter:

Tonnage: The tonnage of a log splitter refers to the amount of force it can exert. A higher tonnage splitter will be able to split larger and tougher logs. For most firewood applications, a 20-25 ton splitter is sufficient.
Cycle Time: The cycle time of a log splitter refers to the amount of time it takes to complete a splitting cycle. A shorter cycle time will allow you to split more wood in less time.
Log Length Capacity: The log length capacity of a log splitter refers to the maximum length of log that it can split. Make sure to choose a splitter with a log length capacity that is appropriate for the size of the logs you will be splitting.
Portability: If you need to move the log splitter around, choose a model that is lightweight and easy to transport.

Case Study:

I used to split all of my firewood by hand with an axe. It was a grueling task that took me several days to complete each year. After purchasing a hydraulic log splitter, I was able to split the same amount of firewood in just a few hours. The log splitter not only saved me a significant amount of time and effort, but it also reduced the strain on my body and made the entire process much more enjoyable. I opted for a 22-ton gas-powered splitter with a 25-inch log capacity. The initial investment paid for itself in terms of time saved and reduced physical strain.

Strategic Insights:

Positioning: Position the log splitter in a convenient location that is close to your wood pile. This will minimize the amount of carrying you have to do.
Sharp Wedge: Keep the wedge of the log splitter sharp. A sharp wedge will split the wood more easily and reduce the strain on the machine.
Proper Maintenance: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for maintaining the log splitter. This will help to ensure that it lasts for many years.

Tool Specifications:

Hydraulic Log Splitter: Choose a log splitter with the appropriate tonnage, cycle time, and log length capacity for your needs.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves.

4. Chainsaw Maintenance: Sharpening and Care for Peak Performance

A dull chainsaw is not only inefficient, it’s also dangerous. A sharp chainsaw cuts faster, smoother, and with less effort, reducing the risk of kickback and other accidents. Regular maintenance, including sharpening and cleaning, is essential for keeping your chainsaw in peak condition.

Why is Chainsaw Maintenance Important?

Safety: A sharp chainsaw is safer to use than a dull chainsaw. A dull chainsaw is more likely to kick back, which can cause serious injury.
Efficiency: A sharp chainsaw cuts faster and with less effort, saving you time and energy.
Longevity: Regular maintenance can extend the life of your chainsaw.
Performance: A well-maintained chainsaw will perform better than a neglected chainsaw.

Chainsaw Sharpening:

Sharpening your chainsaw chain is a critical skill for any chainsaw user. There are several methods for sharpening a chainsaw chain, including:

Hand Sharpening: Hand sharpening involves using a round file and a file guide to sharpen each cutting tooth individually. This method is more time-consuming than using a chainsaw sharpener, but it allows you to fine-tune the sharpness of each tooth.
Chainsaw Sharpener: A chainsaw sharpener is a machine that sharpens the entire chain at once. This method is faster and easier than hand sharpening, but it may not be as precise.

Step-by-Step Guide to Hand Sharpening a Chainsaw:

Secure the Chainsaw: Secure the chainsaw in a vise or on a stump to prevent it from moving while you’re sharpening.
Identify the Cutting Teeth: Identify the cutting teeth on the chain. Each cutting tooth has a top plate and a side plate.
Choose the Right File: Choose a round file that is the correct size for your chain. The correct file size will be specified in your chainsaw’s owner’s manual.
Use a File Guide: Use a file guide to ensure that you’re sharpening the teeth at the correct angle. The file guide will also help you maintain a consistent depth.
Sharpen the Top Plate: Hold the file at the correct angle and file the top plate of each cutting tooth. Use smooth, consistent strokes.
Sharpen the Side Plate: Hold the file at the correct angle and file the side plate of each cutting tooth. Use smooth, consistent strokes.
Check the Depth Gauges: Check the depth gauges (also known as rakers) on the chain. The depth gauges should be slightly lower than the cutting teeth. If the depth gauges are too high, the chainsaw will not cut effectively. Use a flat file to lower the depth gauges.
Rotate the Chain: Rotate the chain and repeat the process for each cutting tooth.

Other Chainsaw Maintenance Tasks:

Cleaning: Clean your chainsaw regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Use a brush or compressed air to clean the bar, chain, and air filter.
Lubrication: Lubricate the chain and bar regularly with chainsaw bar oil. This will help to reduce friction and wear.
Air Filter: Clean or replace the air filter regularly. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and reduce the chainsaw’s performance.
Spark Plug: Check the spark plug regularly and replace it if necessary. A fouled spark plug can cause the chainsaw to run poorly.
Chain Tension: Check the chain tension regularly and adjust it as needed. A loose chain can come off the bar, while a tight chain can cause excessive wear.

Tool Specifications:

Round File: Choose a round file that is the correct size for your chain.
File Guide: Use a file guide to ensure that you’re sharpening the teeth at the correct angle.
Flat File: Use a flat file to lower the depth gauges.
Chainsaw Bar Oil: Use chainsaw bar oil to lubricate the chain and bar.
Brush or Compressed Air: Use a brush or compressed air to clean the chainsaw.

Case Study:

I was once working on a logging job when my chainsaw chain became dull. I tried to continue working with the dull chain, but it was slow and difficult. I decided to take the time to sharpen the chain, and the difference was immediately noticeable. The sharpened chain cut through the wood much faster and with less effort, saving me a significant amount of time and energy. This experience reinforced the importance of regular chainsaw maintenance.

Strategic Insights:

Sharpen Regularly: Sharpen your chainsaw chain regularly, even if it doesn’t seem dull. A slightly sharp chain is always better than a dull chain.
Use a File Guide: Always use a file guide when sharpening your chainsaw chain. This will help you maintain the correct angle and depth.
Clean Regularly: Clean your chainsaw regularly to remove sawdust and debris. This will help to prevent problems and extend the life of the chainsaw.

5. Wood Drying: Seasoning for Optimal Burning and Value

Whether you’re preparing firewood or milling lumber, proper wood drying is crucial. Seasoned wood burns hotter and cleaner, while properly dried lumber is less likely to warp or crack. Understanding the principles of wood drying is essential for anyone working with wood.

What is Wood Drying?

Wood drying, also known as seasoning, is the process of removing moisture from wood. Green wood, freshly cut wood, contains a high percentage of moisture, which can affect its properties and performance. Drying wood reduces its moisture content, making it more stable, durable, and suitable for various applications.

Why is Wood Drying Important?

Firewood: Seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than green firewood. It also produces less smoke and creosote, reducing the risk of chimney fires.
Lumber: Properly dried lumber is less likely to warp, crack, or shrink. It is also more resistant to rot and insect infestation.
Stability: Drying wood reduces its tendency to move and change shape over time. This is particularly important for furniture, cabinetry, and other woodworking projects.
Weight Reduction: Dried wood is lighter than green wood, making it easier to handle and transport.

Methods of Wood Drying:

Air Drying: Air drying is the most common and least expensive method of wood drying. It involves stacking the wood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally over time.
Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a more controlled and faster method of wood drying. It involves placing the wood in a kiln, a heated chamber, and controlling the temperature and humidity to remove moisture.

Step-by-Step Guide to Air Drying Firewood:

Split the Wood: Split the wood into manageable sizes. Smaller pieces will dry faster than larger pieces.
Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, elevated off the ground on pallets or scrap wood. This allows air to circulate freely around the wood.
Choose a Location: Choose a location that is well-ventilated and exposed to sunlight. This will help to speed up the drying process.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the wood pile with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides of the pile open to allow for ventilation.
Allow Time to Dry: Allow the wood to dry for at least six months, and preferably a year or more. The drying time will depend on the type of wood, the climate, and the size of the pieces.

How to Tell if Wood is Seasoned:

Weight: Seasoned wood is significantly lighter than green wood.
Cracks: Seasoned wood will often have cracks or checks in the end grain.
Sound: Seasoned wood will make a hollow sound when struck, while green wood will make a dull thud.
Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

Case Study:

I once tried to burn green firewood in my wood stove. It was difficult to get the fire started, and the wood produced a lot of smoke and creosote. I quickly realized that I needed to season my firewood properly. I split the wood, stacked it in a well-ventilated area, and allowed it to dry for a year. The difference was remarkable. The seasoned firewood burned hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than the green firewood. This experience taught me the importance of proper wood drying.

Strategic Insights:

Stacking Technique: Use a proper stacking technique to ensure good air circulation. This will help to speed up the drying process.
Wood Species: Different wood species dry at different rates. Softwoods, such as pine and fir, dry faster than hardwoods, such as oak and maple.
Climate: The climate will also affect the drying time. Wood will dry faster in warm, dry climates than in cold, humid climates.
Moisture Content Targets: For firewood, aim for a moisture content of 20% or less. For lumber, the target moisture content will depend on the intended use of the lumber.

Tool Specifications:

Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood.
Tarps: Use tarps to protect the wood from rain and snow.
Pallets: Use pallets to elevate the wood off the ground.

By mastering these five pro logging hacks – the bore cut, strategic bucking, hydraulic splitting, chainsaw maintenance, and wood drying – you’ll significantly improve your efficiency, safety, and overall success in your wood processing and firewood preparation endeavors. Remember, it’s not just about working hard; it’s about working smart. These techniques, combined with practice and a commitment to safety, will help you get the most out of your time and resources. Now, get out there and put these tips into action!

Chainsaw Arboristsite Tips (5 Pro Logging Hacks Revealed)