Chainsaw 36 Inch Bar Tips (5 Pro Arborist Secrets)

Let’s talk about chainsaws, specifically those powerful 36-inch bar beasts. The user’s intent with the query “Chainsaw 36 Inch Bar Tips (5 Pro Arborist Secrets)” is clear: they want to learn how to safely and effectively use a chainsaw with a 36-inch bar, likely for felling large trees or handling substantial timber. They’re also seeking expert techniques, perhaps assuming that “Pro Arborist Secrets” will reveal methods beyond the basics. This article will delve into the nuances of wielding a 36-inch bar chainsaw, covering safety, maintenance, felling techniques, and the specific challenges associated with larger saws. I’ll share insights gleaned from years of experience, including mistakes I’ve made and lessons learned the hard way.

Mastering the Chainsaw: 36-Inch Bar Edition – 5 Pro Arborist Secrets

A 36-inch chainsaw isn’t your average homeowner’s tool. It’s a serious piece of equipment designed for serious work. Understanding its capabilities and limitations is paramount, not only for efficiency but also for safety. Before we dive into the “secrets,” let’s establish some foundational knowledge.

What is a 36-Inch Chainsaw Bar Used For?

A 36-inch bar is typically used for:

• Felling large trees: Trees with diameters approaching 30 inches or more require a longer bar to cut through in a single pass.
• Bucking large logs: Cutting felled trees into manageable lengths (bucking) is easier and faster with a longer bar when dealing with substantial timber.
• Milling lumber: While not ideal, a 36-inch bar can be used with an Alaskan mill attachment to slab logs into lumber.
• Storm cleanup: Removing large downed trees after storms often necessitates a powerful saw with a long reach.

Using a smaller chainsaw can be dangerous if you are trying to cut a tree that is too big for it. You can also damage your chainsaw in doing so.

Key Terminology: Chainsaw Basics

Before we get too far, let’s clarify some essential terms:

• Bar: The metal guide that supports and directs the saw chain.
• Chain: The cutting component, consisting of interconnected links with cutting teeth (cutters).
• Drive Sprocket: The rotating component that drives the chain around the bar.
• Clutch: Disengages the engine from the chain, allowing the engine to idle without the chain moving.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chain.
• Kickback: A sudden and dangerous upward or backward movement of the saw, caused by the tip of the bar contacting a solid object.
• Felling: The act of cutting down a tree.
• Bucking: The act of cutting a felled tree into shorter lengths.
• Limbing: Removing branches from a felled tree.
• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to reduce its moisture content.

Safety First: The Unbreakable Rule

Operating a chainsaw, especially a large one, demands unwavering respect for safety. I can’t stress this enough. I’ve seen firsthand the devastating consequences of complacency. These are the non-negotiable safety precautions:

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
  • Chainsaw Chaps: These are your primary defense against leg injuries. I personally use chaps with multiple layers of ballistic nylon. They might feel bulky, but they’re worth their weight in gold.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling debris and accidental contact with the chain.
  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield are essential to protect against flying wood chips and debris. I prefer a full face shield for maximum protection.
  • Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud. Prolonged exposure to high noise levels can cause permanent hearing damage. Use earplugs or earmuffs.
  • Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Helmet: Protects against head injuries. A helmet with a built-in face shield and hearing protection is ideal.
• Chainsaw Inspection: Before each use, meticulously inspect your chainsaw.
  • Chain Tension: The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
  • Chain Sharpness: A dull chain is a dangerous chain. Sharpen it regularly (more on this later).
  • Bar Condition: Check for wear, damage, and proper lubrication.
  • Fuel and Oil Levels: Ensure both tanks are full.
  • Safety Features: Verify that the chain brake, throttle lock, and on/off switch are functioning correctly.
• Clear Work Area: Remove any obstacles that could cause you to trip or lose your balance. This includes branches, rocks, and other debris.
• Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep bystanders at least twice the height of the tree you’re felling away from the work area.
• Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: This increases the risk of losing control of the saw.
• Be Aware of Kickback: Understand the kickback zone (the upper portion of the bar tip) and avoid using it whenever possible.
• Proper Stance: Maintain a wide, stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Keep your weight balanced and avoid overreaching.
• Fatigue: Chainsaw operation is physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue, which can lead to errors in judgement.
• Weather Conditions: Avoid operating a chainsaw in high winds, heavy rain, or icy conditions.
• First Aid Kit: Always have a well-stocked first aid kit readily available.

The 5 Pro Arborist Secrets for 36-Inch Chainsaw Mastery

Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter. These “secrets” aren’t magical spells, but rather refined techniques and a deeper understanding of chainsaw operation.

Secret #1: Sharpening – The Key to Efficiency and Safety

A sharp chain is not just about cutting faster; it’s about cutting safer. A dull chain requires more force, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue.

• Frequency: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel, or more often if you’re cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
• Tools:
  • Round File and Guide: This is the most common and affordable method. Use a file that matches the pitch of your chain (e.g., a 7/32″ file for a .325″ pitch chain). A filing guide helps maintain the correct angle and depth.
  • Flat File and Depth Gauge Tool: Used to adjust the depth gauges (rakers) on the chain.
  • Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: A faster and more precise option, but also more expensive.
• Technique:
  1. Secure the chainsaw in a vise.
  2. Use the round file and guide to sharpen each cutter. Maintain a consistent angle and depth.
  3. File each cutter the same number of strokes to ensure they are all the same length.
  4. Use the flat file and depth gauge tool to lower the depth gauges (rakers) according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
  5. Check for any damaged or worn cutters and replace them as needed.
• Personal Anecdote: I once spent an entire day fighting with a dull chain, trying to fell a large oak. It was exhausting, frustrating, and ultimately unproductive. After finally sharpening the chain properly, the difference was night and day. The saw cut effortlessly, and I finished the job in a fraction of the time. This experience taught me the invaluable lesson of prioritizing chain sharpness.

Secret #2: Felling Techniques for Large Trees

Felling a large tree with a 36-inch bar chainsaw requires careful planning and precise execution. Here’s a breakdown of the process:

1. Planning:
   • Assess the Tree: Determine the tree’s lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards (e.g., power lines, other trees, buildings).
   • Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
   • Felling Direction: Choose a felling direction that is safe and avoids damaging other trees or property.
2. Preparation:
   • Clear the Base: Remove any brush, rocks, or other debris from around the base of the tree.
   • Undercut: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The undercut should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the top cut should be approximately 45 degrees, and the bottom cut should be horizontal.
   • Back Cut: Cut from the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bottom of the undercut. Leave a hinge of wood (the holding wood) to control the direction of the fall.
3. Felling:
   • Wedges: If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, use felling wedges to help direct its fall. Insert the wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a hammer or axe.
   • Final Cut: Once the wedges are in place, make the final cut through the hinge wood.
   • Retreat: As the tree begins to fall, quickly retreat along your planned escape route.
4. Important Considerations:
   • Hinge Wood: The hinge wood is crucial for controlling the direction of the fall. It should be of uniform thickness and aligned with the undercut.
   • Bar Length: Ensure your bar is long enough to cut through the tree in a single pass. If not, you may need to use a bore cut (see below).
   • Tree Lean: Be extra cautious when felling trees with a significant lean. They are more likely to fall unexpectedly.
   • Wind: Avoid felling trees in high winds. The wind can easily change the direction of the fall.

Case Study: I was once tasked with felling a large, leaning oak tree near a residential property. The tree was leaning towards the house, which presented a significant challenge. After carefully assessing the situation, I decided to use a combination of felling wedges and a pulling cable to control the direction of the fall. I attached the cable to the top of the tree and used a winch to pull it in the opposite direction of the house. This allowed me to safely fell the tree away from the property.

Secret #3: Mastering the Bore Cut

The bore cut is an advanced technique used to fell large trees or to remove sections of a tree without felling the entire tree. It involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the wood to create a cut from the inside out.

• When to Use It:
  • Felling Large Trees: When the tree’s diameter is greater than the bar length.
  • Removing Sections of a Tree: When you need to remove a large branch or section of the trunk without felling the entire tree.
  • Releasing a Hung-Up Tree: When a felled tree is caught in another tree.
• Technique:
  1. Pilot Hole: Start by making a small pilot hole with the tip of the bar.
  2. Plunge Cut: Carefully plunge the tip of the bar into the wood, using the pilot hole as a guide.
  3. Create the Bore Cut: Once the bar is fully inserted, pivot the saw to create the desired cut.
  4. Be Aware of Kickback: The bore cut is inherently more prone to kickback. Use extreme caution and maintain a firm grip on the saw.
• Safety Considerations:
  • Sharp Chain: A sharp chain is essential for a clean and controlled bore cut.
  • Proper PPE: Wear all required PPE, including a helmet with a face shield.
  • Stable Stance: Maintain a wide, stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart.
  • Avoid Obstacles: Make sure there are no obstacles in the path of the bar.
  • Practice: Practice the bore cut on smaller logs before attempting it on a large tree.

Personal Experience: I remember the first time I tried a bore cut. I was nervous and unsure of myself. I practiced on a few smaller logs until I felt comfortable with the technique. When I finally attempted it on a large tree, I was able to execute it smoothly and safely. The key is to take your time, be patient, and focus on maintaining control of the saw.

Secret #4: Chainsaw Maintenance: Keeping Your Saw Running Strong

A well-maintained chainsaw is a safe and efficient chainsaw. Neglecting maintenance can lead to decreased performance, increased risk of accidents, and costly repairs.

• Daily Maintenance:
  • Clean the Saw: Remove any sawdust, debris, and oil from the saw.
  • Check Chain Tension: Adjust the chain tension as needed.
  • Sharpen the Chain: Sharpen the chain regularly.
  • Check Bar Lubrication: Ensure the bar oiler is functioning properly.
  • Check Air Filter: Clean or replace the air filter as needed.
• Weekly Maintenance:
  • Inspect the Bar: Check for wear, damage, and proper lubrication.
  • Clean the Spark Plug: Clean or replace the spark plug as needed.
  • Inspect Fuel Lines: Check for leaks or cracks in the fuel lines.
  • Grease the Sprocket: Grease the sprocket bearing.
• Monthly Maintenance:
  • Clean the Muffler: Clean the muffler to prevent carbon buildup.
  • Inspect the Anti-Vibration System: Check the anti-vibration mounts for wear or damage.
  • Check the Clutch: Inspect the clutch for wear or damage.
• Bar Maintenance:
  • Clean the Bar Groove: Clean the bar groove regularly to ensure proper chain lubrication.
  • File the Bar Rails: File the bar rails to remove any burrs or sharp edges.
  • Flip the Bar: Flip the bar periodically to distribute wear evenly.
• Chain Maintenance:
  • Sharpen the Chain: Sharpen the chain regularly.
  • Replace Worn Cutters: Replace any damaged or worn cutters.
  • Clean the Chain: Clean the chain regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
• Fuel and Oil:
  • Use the Correct Fuel Mixture: Use the fuel mixture recommended by the manufacturer.
  • Use High-Quality Bar Oil: Use high-quality bar oil to lubricate the chain and bar.
  • Store Fuel Properly: Store fuel in a tightly sealed container away from heat and flames.

Tool Specifications: My primary chainsaw is a Stihl MS 462 R C-M with a 36-inch bar. I use Stihl bar oil and a fuel mixture of 50:1. I sharpen the chain using a Pferd Chain Sharp CS-X electric sharpener.

Secret #5: Strategic Bucking Techniques

Bucking large logs into manageable lengths requires planning and technique to avoid pinching the bar and chain.

• Assess the Log: Determine how the log is supported. Is it supported at both ends, in the middle, or only at one end?
• Cutting Techniques:
  • Log Supported at Both Ends: Make a partial cut from the top, then roll the log and finish the cut from the bottom. This prevents the log from pinching the bar.
  • Log Supported in the Middle: Make a partial cut from the bottom, then finish the cut from the top. This prevents the log from pinching the bar.
  • Log Supported at One End: Make a partial cut from the top, then finish the cut from the bottom. Be careful to avoid the log rolling as you cut.
• Using Wedges: If the log is likely to pinch the bar, use wedges to keep the cut open.
• Log Splitter Compatibility: Consider the size and type of log splitter you will be using. Cut the logs to a length that is compatible with your splitter. My hydraulic log splitter has a 25-ton capacity and can handle logs up to 24 inches in diameter and 26 inches in length.
• Safety Considerations:
  • Stable Stance: Maintain a wide, stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart.
  • Clear Work Area: Remove any obstacles that could cause you to trip or lose your balance.
  • Use Wedges: Use wedges to prevent the log from rolling or pinching the bar.
  • Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the potential for kickback when bucking logs.

Original Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Production:

I run a small firewood business, and efficiency is key to profitability. I’ve experimented with different bucking techniques and log splitter configurations to optimize my production process.

• Traditional Method: Manually bucking logs with a chainsaw and splitting them with a hydraulic splitter. This method was labor-intensive and time-consuming.
• Improved Method: Using a log deck to elevate the logs and a chainsaw mill to cut them into uniform lengths. This significantly reduced the amount of bending and lifting required.
• Optimized Method: Investing in a firewood processor that automatically bucks and splits the logs. This has dramatically increased my production capacity and reduced labor costs.

Data and Insights:

• Traditional Method: Production rate of 1 cord of firewood per day.
• Improved Method: Production rate of 2 cords of firewood per day.
• Optimized Method: Production rate of 4 cords of firewood per day.

The investment in a firewood processor was significant, but the increased production capacity and reduced labor costs have made it a worthwhile investment.

Beyond the Secrets: Additional Considerations

• Choosing the Right Chainsaw: A 36-inch bar chainsaw is a significant investment. Consider your needs and budget carefully before making a purchase. Look for a saw with adequate power, good anti-vibration features, and a reliable reputation.
• Chain Selection: Choose a chain that is appropriate for the type of wood you will be cutting. Different chains are designed for different applications, such as ripping, crosscutting, and boring.
• Bar Selection: Consider the type of bar you will be using. Solid bars are more durable but heavier than laminated bars.
• Fuel and Oil Storage: Store fuel and oil in approved containers and away from heat sources.
• Transportation: Transport your chainsaw safely in a case or scabbard.
• Environmental Considerations: Be mindful of the environmental impact of your chainsaw operations. A well-made chainsaw will last longer and perform better than a cheap one.
• Continuous Learning: Chainsaw operation is a skill that requires continuous learning and practice. Attend workshops, read books, and watch videos to improve your techniques.
• Networking: Connect with other arborists and loggers to share knowledge and learn from their experiences.
• Safety Culture: Promote a strong safety culture in your workplace. Make safety a priority and encourage others to do the same.

Practical Next Steps

If you’re ready to put these “secrets” into practice, here’s a suggested course of action:

1. Review Safety Procedures: Re-familiarize yourself with all safety precautions.
2. Inspect Your Chainsaw: Thoroughly inspect your chainsaw, paying close attention to the chain, bar, and safety features.
3. Sharpen Your Chain: Sharpen your chain using the appropriate tools and techniques.
4. Practice Felling Techniques: Practice felling techniques on smaller trees before attempting to fell large trees.
5. Master the Bore Cut: Practice the bore cut on smaller logs until you feel comfortable with the technique.
6. Maintain Your Chainsaw: Implement a regular maintenance schedule to keep your chainsaw running strong.
7. Buck Logs Strategically: Use appropriate bucking techniques to avoid pinching the bar and chain.

Conclusion

Mastering a 36-inch chainsaw is a journey that requires dedication, practice, and a deep respect for safety. By following these “pro arborist secrets” and continuously striving to improve your skills, you can safely and efficiently tackle even the most challenging tree felling and bucking tasks. Remember, complacency is the enemy. Always be aware of your surroundings, maintain your equipment properly, and never compromise on safety. The knowledge I’ve shared comes from years of experience – both successes and failures. Learn from my mistakes, and you’ll be well on your way to becoming a proficient chainsaw operator. Good luck, and stay safe out there!

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